New Voltbike Yukon 750 spotted
- Thread starter SuperGoop
- Start date
I have around 1,000 km on my Yukon 750 already. My typical rides are 40 - 60 km, therefore I drain my battery in one outing (ie. no multiple rides per charge). From my experience, the battery indicator:
5 Bars: 100% (700w possible)
4 Bars: 60% (600w possible)
3 Bars: 30% (500w possible)
2 Bars: 10% (400w possible, before motor cuts out with an low battery error code)
1 Bar: 0% (200w possible, before motor cuts out with an low battery error code)
0 Bar: ? (never been this low)
Conclusion: The battery bars are not linear. If you have 3 out of 5 bars left, it does NOT mean you have 60% battery remaining, more like only 30% (depending on how fresh or stale that 3 bar is), and the power is significantly reduced.
Having said that, I don't notice the reduced power because I typically use only around 200w in PAS with lots of pedalling. If I were to full throttle it, then I would notice the reduced power.
P.S. After resting, the battery will usually regain 1 bar, but that does not hold. As soon as you start riding again, it will quickly drop back down 1 bar.
5 Bars: 100% (700w possible)
4 Bars: 60% (600w possible)
3 Bars: 30% (500w possible)
2 Bars: 10% (400w possible, before motor cuts out with an low battery error code)
1 Bar: 0% (200w possible, before motor cuts out with an low battery error code)
0 Bar: ? (never been this low)
Conclusion: The battery bars are not linear. If you have 3 out of 5 bars left, it does NOT mean you have 60% battery remaining, more like only 30% (depending on how fresh or stale that 3 bar is), and the power is significantly reduced.
Having said that, I don't notice the reduced power because I typically use only around 200w in PAS with lots of pedalling. If I were to full throttle it, then I would notice the reduced power.
P.S. After resting, the battery will usually regain 1 bar, but that does not hold. As soon as you start riding again, it will quickly drop back down 1 bar.
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I remember now sending a similar email to voltbike a few weeks ago and never heard back either. I don't think they want to put in writing ways to circumvent the 500w limit law on a canadian purchased bike (even if for temporary use to the USA)
I did hear back and for my use because i will be traveling back and forth from the states they said they can ship the bike unrestricted.
ace20ri
Member
I have not posted in a little while but I took at the controller again and noticed the current sense resistor looks I have been pushing it pretty hard (pretty brown already). I looked up the R002 and it is 1W, which means it really can only handle 10A of continuous current without dissipating too much heat sqrt(1W/0.01mOhm) based on what looks like a WELWYN LRMAM1206-R01FT5 SMD Current Sense Resistor, 0.01 ohm, 1 W, 1206. I'm thinking of swapping it for a 3W 0.005Ohm by Vishay since the form factor fits. This will give me up to 24.5A of continuous current, so running at 20A will not be an issue. Since the motor is rated 750W (I live in California), I should be able to get the max power consistently out of the bike. I will monitor the motor to make sure it does not over heat. I will post some pics once I make the swap. Here are some pics of the controller pcbas (plural because there is king-meter pcba as well).
Wow, that looks pretty complex. Not something I would even consider tinkering. Good to know we have a resident tinkerer willing and knowledgeable to mod it! With your knowledge, can you speculate how the motor was "limited to 500w" for Canadians? I am in Canada and was wondering whether it is hard coded into the firmware, or something that the user can easily change in the settings?
Thanks!
Thanks!
ace20ri
Member
@SuperGoop no worries, just giving back to the forum. Hopefully others may feel the urge to look around as well and build upon it. Regarding the 500W limit, I would bet the controller is programmed to max out at 10-12A no matter the parameter setting change. Especially since the current sense resistor should only run around 10A without reliability issues.
I would love to purchase the software used by VoltBike to program the controller so that I can tweak it to my liking. I would be willing to sign a NDA and waive my warranty so may be I should request this with George and see what he says. The motor can only handle 48v nominal so increasing speed will be kind of limited but having access to the programming may allow me to change some of the pedal assist percentages and determine if there truly is speed cap programmed into the system.
Looks like Voltbike updated the description again. It now reads "(For Canadian consumers top speed limited to 32km/h... )". They no longer mention the 500W limit:I just noticed that Voltbike.ca updated the description of the Yukon 750 to say that it is a 750W motor, but for Canadians, it is "limited" to 500W to comply with Canadian regulations.
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I just really love my Voltbike Yukon 750, and try to understand it as much as possible, but I have no skill in electronics, hacks, mods, etc.
I would just say that going faster than 32km/h will not be very useful very long. The pedal cadence will not be able to keep up comfortably for long. I would be spinning my legs without helping the motor very much. Therefore, the motor will be doing all the work, and at that 32km/h throttle only, the battery will only last less than 1 hour, not to mention the strain on the motor, battery and controller.
Wind resistance will make high speed riding very inefficient, especially on a fat bike. I would much rather go a bit slower at around 22-25 km/h and double my battery range. In reality, I usually ride at around 20-22 km/h for a good balance between speed and range.
On really long rides (70+ km round trip), I go even slower at around 16-20 km/h and try to "hyper-mile" as much as possible. "Hypermiling" is a technique used to in the automobile world to maximize mileage by minimizing braking and wind resistance.
For example, I pedal just enough to get me to the peak of a hill, but never more because I know the decent will carry me the rest of the way, and I don't want to use my brakes on the decent, and therefore wasting precious energy.
P.S. Having said that, having the "ability" to get more wattage, or go faster than 32km/h is still useful for short bursts of fun, for emergency, or as needed.
I would just say that going faster than 32km/h will not be very useful very long. The pedal cadence will not be able to keep up comfortably for long. I would be spinning my legs without helping the motor very much. Therefore, the motor will be doing all the work, and at that 32km/h throttle only, the battery will only last less than 1 hour, not to mention the strain on the motor, battery and controller.
Wind resistance will make high speed riding very inefficient, especially on a fat bike. I would much rather go a bit slower at around 22-25 km/h and double my battery range. In reality, I usually ride at around 20-22 km/h for a good balance between speed and range.
On really long rides (70+ km round trip), I go even slower at around 16-20 km/h and try to "hyper-mile" as much as possible. "Hypermiling" is a technique used to in the automobile world to maximize mileage by minimizing braking and wind resistance.
For example, I pedal just enough to get me to the peak of a hill, but never more because I know the decent will carry me the rest of the way, and I don't want to use my brakes on the decent, and therefore wasting precious energy.
P.S. Having said that, having the "ability" to get more wattage, or go faster than 32km/h is still useful for short bursts of fun, for emergency, or as needed.
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I too, have been trying to figure out how to remove the speed limit. This is just an great option to keep with traffic, if you're riding on the road.
I have a Mariner and believe the controller is similar to the Yukon 750. Here's a photo of the Mariner controller. I was able to decipher/trace majority of the wires, but none that seems to be able to disable the speed limit. Perhaps it is wired inside the Hub motor?
Any insights by other members???
As far as I can decipher:
Thick Red/Black: Power to the controller
Thick Y/G/Blue: Power to the Hub Motor
Attached R/Blk/W: Some sort of signal relayed from the Hub Motor (most likely the throttle)
Controller R/Blk to Exterior Blk/Blk-w: Power to attached bike lights (on/off controlled by an unknown signal (wire) going into the controller)
Controller Light Blue/R/Blk: Cadence sensor (the 12 magnets disc)
Now here comes the fun part:
Exterior R/B/Blk/G/Y: This is the cable strip that connects to the LCD Controller (R, Blk: is most likely power; rest is most likely transmission of data)
Controller R/Blk/Green-Yw to Exterior Grey/Purple: ???? Unknown (My guess is brake lever cut-off sensor)
Controller Dual Grey/Blk to Exterior White: Unknown. I trial and error this wire hoping is the speed limit but unfortunately is not. If unplugged, then brake lever motor cut-off would not function. If plugged to the Single Grey/Blk connector, appears to make no difference - both brake lever motor cut-off still works.
Controller Single Grey/Blk: Unplugged. Unknown
Controller Grey/Red *male: Unplugged. Unknown - some how the plug appears reversed, controller plugs mostly female.......so my deduction is this is some sort of power feeding to bike accessories just like the bike lights plugs????
Exterior Brown *female: Unplugged. Unknown. Based on the manual simplified wiring diagram, the bike lights is labeled "Brown". So my deduction is this wire is to control brake light if the bike is equipped???
The Blk wire loop: This loops one ground to another. Probably has nothing to do with speed.
I have a Mariner and believe the controller is similar to the Yukon 750. Here's a photo of the Mariner controller. I was able to decipher/trace majority of the wires, but none that seems to be able to disable the speed limit. Perhaps it is wired inside the Hub motor?
Any insights by other members???
As far as I can decipher:
Thick Red/Black: Power to the controller
Thick Y/G/Blue: Power to the Hub Motor
Attached R/Blk/W: Some sort of signal relayed from the Hub Motor (most likely the throttle)
Controller R/Blk to Exterior Blk/Blk-w: Power to attached bike lights (on/off controlled by an unknown signal (wire) going into the controller)
Controller Light Blue/R/Blk: Cadence sensor (the 12 magnets disc)
Now here comes the fun part:
Exterior R/B/Blk/G/Y: This is the cable strip that connects to the LCD Controller (R, Blk: is most likely power; rest is most likely transmission of data)
Controller R/Blk/Green-Yw to Exterior Grey/Purple: ???? Unknown (My guess is brake lever cut-off sensor)
Controller Dual Grey/Blk to Exterior White: Unknown. I trial and error this wire hoping is the speed limit but unfortunately is not. If unplugged, then brake lever motor cut-off would not function. If plugged to the Single Grey/Blk connector, appears to make no difference - both brake lever motor cut-off still works.
Controller Single Grey/Blk: Unplugged. Unknown
Controller Grey/Red *male: Unplugged. Unknown - some how the plug appears reversed, controller plugs mostly female.......so my deduction is this is some sort of power feeding to bike accessories just like the bike lights plugs????
Exterior Brown *female: Unplugged. Unknown. Based on the manual simplified wiring diagram, the bike lights is labeled "Brown". So my deduction is this wire is to control brake light if the bike is equipped???
The Blk wire loop: This loops one ground to another. Probably has nothing to do with speed.
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Gizmodude
New Member
So happy for my Son who recently bought one to travel about 28Km ( round trip ) to work and back home.. great value bike ! I may have to save a few $$ and get one for myself ! Beats driving the car for a 15 min trip to the office in the summer .. plus hey a little exercise .. They listen to their customers cause there is a bottle cage and a chain slap guard included on the bike .. nice little things that make this purchase even better ! 
jazz
Well-Known Member
I think all ebikes capable of going over 20mph should have a city mode for <20mph and and off-road mode for >20mph. Restricting them is not what most people want. I have looked at the Volt, MS2, Biktrix, Juiced etc and the biggest thing holding me back is the limiter. I will not buy a limited ebike
I believe there are 3 variables to consider to determine the true power of the Yukon 750. We are lucky that we have access to custom settings from the LCD display:
1) The motor is "rated" up to 750w continuous without overheating.
2) The controller is rated 10 Amp continuous; 20A max.
3) The voltage/battery is 48V (full charge = 54.6v)
Therefore, in the advance menu, I can change the current to say: 10A, 15A or 20A
Current =10A
- If we set to 10A x 48V, the maximum wattage is 480W going to the motor. Both the controller and motor can handle this continuously. Full throttle only up a steep incline will be fine. Motor & controller will be hot, but not overheat.
Full charge = 54.6v x 10A = 546w (below motor rating)
Current = 15A
- If we set to 15A (my default) x 48v, the maximum wattage is 720W going to the motor. The motor can handle this continuously, BUT the controller can not. The controller is rated up to 20A, but not continuously. Full throttle only up a incline will be fine for the motor, but will overheat the controller if for sustained period.
Full charge = 54.6v x 15A = 819w (slightly exceeds motor rating)
Current =20A
- If we set to 20A (max allowed in the advanced settings) x 48v, the max wattage is 960W! Motor and controller will both overheat if sustain continuously. Quick bursts should be okay but I would not risk it. Do NOT set you current to 20A!
Full charge = 54.6v x 20A = 1,092W! (not recommended)
Hope this helps!
1) The motor is "rated" up to 750w continuous without overheating.
2) The controller is rated 10 Amp continuous; 20A max.
3) The voltage/battery is 48V (full charge = 54.6v)
Therefore, in the advance menu, I can change the current to say: 10A, 15A or 20A
Current =10A
- If we set to 10A x 48V, the maximum wattage is 480W going to the motor. Both the controller and motor can handle this continuously. Full throttle only up a steep incline will be fine. Motor & controller will be hot, but not overheat.
Full charge = 54.6v x 10A = 546w (below motor rating)
Current = 15A
- If we set to 15A (my default) x 48v, the maximum wattage is 720W going to the motor. The motor can handle this continuously, BUT the controller can not. The controller is rated up to 20A, but not continuously. Full throttle only up a incline will be fine for the motor, but will overheat the controller if for sustained period.
Full charge = 54.6v x 15A = 819w (slightly exceeds motor rating)
Current =20A
- If we set to 20A (max allowed in the advanced settings) x 48v, the max wattage is 960W! Motor and controller will both overheat if sustain continuously. Quick bursts should be okay but I would not risk it. Do NOT set you current to 20A!
Full charge = 54.6v x 20A = 1,092W! (not recommended)
Hope this helps!
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jazz
Well-Known Member
I think that is a good general guide to follow but if you really want to push it I will say the Bafang motors have no problems running at higher amps. I have overvolted many diff Bafang motors and they hold up well. I have a 750w motor which is the same motor as on the Yukon 750 running with a 52v battery and 30amp controller and never had it overheat on me. I can hit 30mph+ on a flat and no problem with most hills. I operate my 350w Sondors with a 25a controller and 48v battery for the past year with no issues either. I don't live in a super hilly area so that may make a difference.
It's a risk if you have the need for power and speed so you don't want to void your warranty. On the other hand parts and even replacement Bafang hub motors are fairly inexpensive.
It's a risk if you have the need for power and speed so you don't want to void your warranty. On the other hand parts and even replacement Bafang hub motors are fairly inexpensive.
The Viofo A119+GPS is one of the best gadget on my bike, so I want to expand on it. I mused with the idea of a GoPro like many people, but it lacks the features I want. The Viofo A119+GPS has everything I want as a bikecam at a very low price. My entire "bikecam" setup with battery, mounts, cables, taxes, etc., cost CAD$140 (US$105) + memory card. I just wanted to share how amazing it works. The best features are:
1) Anker 5000 mAh USB power bank provides 8 hours of continuous power.
2) A 128 GB memory card holds 10 hours of continuous looped recording at 1440P x 30fps (or I can select 1080p x 60fps instead)
3) Stamped GPS coordinates easily pinpoint the location on bike trails that is sometimes hard to determine.
4) Real-time speedometer easily tracks riding speed at any moment.
5) Real-time audio to capture sounds and conversations.
6) Time/date syncs automatically via GPS satellite; accurate to the second!
7) Emergency button quickly and easily marks the GPS coordinates of interesting locations.
8) Option for "Image Flip" works great for my mounting needs.
9) Very inexpensive (only US$75, on sale).
10) No windshield to cause glare or reflections = really sharp images.
11) Not waterproof, but easily removable from GPS mount.
12) Much cheaper that a GoPro, and around as stealthy.
13) Arguably better features (GPS) & image quality than entry level GoPro.
1) Anker 5000 mAh USB power bank provides 8 hours of continuous power.
2) A 128 GB memory card holds 10 hours of continuous looped recording at 1440P x 30fps (or I can select 1080p x 60fps instead)
3) Stamped GPS coordinates easily pinpoint the location on bike trails that is sometimes hard to determine.
4) Real-time speedometer easily tracks riding speed at any moment.
5) Real-time audio to capture sounds and conversations.
6) Time/date syncs automatically via GPS satellite; accurate to the second!
7) Emergency button quickly and easily marks the GPS coordinates of interesting locations.
8) Option for "Image Flip" works great for my mounting needs.
9) Very inexpensive (only US$75, on sale).
10) No windshield to cause glare or reflections = really sharp images.
11) Not waterproof, but easily removable from GPS mount.
12) Much cheaper that a GoPro, and around as stealthy.
13) Arguably better features (GPS) & image quality than entry level GoPro.
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Marceltt
Active Member
Hi there just would like to know if you got the real convoy s2+ or the fake one ? Does yours have the metal switch on back. Thank you.
I bought three Convoy S2+ in different colours (red, blue, gray) and they are all real. The other ones have the metal switches, but the colour did not match my bike. This gray version is also authentic, but has the rubber switch which is easier to press with biking gloves on. Rubber or metal switches is just a buyer's option. They are all real. They come individually packaged in a nice retail box. I bought them from Gearbest.com a long time ago before my ebike.
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Marceltt
Active Member
Thanks for your reply. What battery did you get and what do you use to charge them. Thanks
I have no problem with a cheapie pump from Canadian Tire for around CAD$9.99 on sale. They don't carry my model anymore, but similar to this: http://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/supercycle-floor-bike-pump-0734820p.html#srpThanks for the info @SuperGoop. I ordered the phone mount with my new tires. BTW, did you know it's pretty much impossible to inflate a 26x4 tire with a regular small hand pump or high pressure pump? found out recently that you need a high volume pump and even then, it will take a while. Hard to believe, but with a cheap portable regular pump, it takes at least 30 minutes of non stop pumping to inflate a fat tire at like 6psi (well, all this based on what I read online anyway). I ordered a HV pump to carry around - those are not cheap though
I just tested it. I deflated my 26x4 fat tires until the beads started coming off the rim. It took exactly 60 full strokes to pump it up to 8 psi. Total time is less than 1 minute!
P.S. I have been using this cheapie pump for years on all my bikes. I liked it so much that I have 4 of them around the house and in the car for convenience. I bought more when the were on sale (which is very often).
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