New rider confession: my butt hurts

Been looking at the Brooks C17. Any users out there?
Dave, I used the Cambium C17 on my Fatboy for about 2 years of steady riding. Natural rubber, kind of pliable. But it won't form to your rear end "footprint" as their leather saddles do after a long time breaking it in. What I especially did not like with mine was those rear steel rivets had a way of pressuring my rear as I shift body weight around in the saddle often on the long rides I often did on that bike. And mind ya, that was with padded Endura shorts.

After getting the Haibike, I stuck with the stock Selle Royal saddle, which was not too bad. Then moved onto an Ergon SMC-4M saddle which was really comfortable for me. And after over a year of the Ergon, I finally settled on the Ergon SC Core Prime with a special BASF foam that really absorbs alot of vibrations and road shocks.

Finding the right saddle that works for you can be an expensive journey.

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Brooks Cambium 17 with the Cane Creek Thudbuster Long Travel. Only thing about this set up is that if the bump are bad enough and your setting is plush, you feel like you are riding a pogo stick. Plus, with that long travel, if you have gear on your rear rack, the seat post/saddle can make contact.
 
I took a pair of Carhart shorts and removed the 6mm thick lump union between the inseams and crouch seam. This had the added upside of adding convenient ventilation port that is perfectly positioned for airflow where it is needed most, in the main downstairs ballroom.
 
Dave, I used the Cambium C17 on my Fatboy for about 2 years of steady riding. Natural rubber, kind of pliable. But it won't form to your rear end "footprint" as their leather saddles do after a long time breaking it in. What I especially did not like with mine was those rear steel rivets had a way of pressuring my rear as I shift body weight around in the saddle often on the long rides I often did on that bike. And mind ya, that was with padded Endura shorts.

After getting the Haibike, I stuck with the stock Selle Royal saddle, which was not too bad. Then moved onto an Ergon SMC-4M saddle which was really comfortable for me. And after over a year of the Ergon, I finally settled on the Ergon SC Core Prime with a special BASF foam that really absorbs alot of vibrations and road shocks.

Finding the right saddle that works for you can be an expensive journey.

View attachment 123702
Brooks Cambium 17 with the Cane Creek Thudbuster Long Travel. Only thing about this set up is that if the bump are bad enough and your setting is plush, you feel like you are riding a pogo stick. Plus, with that long travel, if you have gear on your rear rack, the seat post/saddle can make contact.
Cheers Mike!
I ended up opting for a Giant Contact Comfort plus saddle, and so far it is a really nice upgrade.
There is likely better, but for the price I feel it was money well spent.
 
I have been a cyclist for nearly all of my 66 years. My suggestion, for what it’s worth, would be to go to a bike shop that does bike fitting. It costs a bit, but it saves a lot of money and discomfort and possible injury in the end.

There are a number of discomfort types associated with saddles. Saddle sores, aching cheeks, pressure, numbness…. Knowing the type of discomfort will be helpful to the fitter.

Saddles are a very personal choice, but a big and soft saddle will make your but ache. I have a Titanium railed Fizik Aliante on my Cross Core. It’s not there because it’s light and sleek, (which it is). It’s there because it’s supportive and fits my sit bones and the Titanium rails add some extra shock absorption.

I am not recommending that saddle, just mentioning it to show that comfort doesn’t always mean big and soft. I have ridden many centuries on traditional road bikes. Comfort on a bike is very different than comfort in an easy chair. Your muscles are engaged all the way to your scull and a big, padded seat will generally restrict some activity. It may feel good when you sit on it, but it won’t after you have ridden any distance.

Good luck and don’t give up.
 
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My limits is about 3 1/2 hours. I've tried 5 different seats on this bike. No, I'm not flattening my back and standing up all the time, my neck disk might rupture from the bent position. Pain started about age 62 when all the fat on my hips disappeared. Fat is still stuck to my stomach. I'm age 71. I ride ~2000 miles a year, and doing it more doesn't make the blood circulate any better when you sit on muscle. I have a pair of padded shorts but think they are for skin abrasion, not the blood circulation in the muscle. My skin is fine in cotton/polyester briefs.
Brooks was fine when I was only 55. The seat in the picture was a schwinn, wide enough but hard as a rock. Cylinders on the back were decorations, not springs. I bought a recommended selle royale respiro, cost enough but was horrid. Now I'm riding a evo 260x218 mm wide from modernbike.com, $32+freight. I have it tipped forwards where I don't ride on the nose. Has a groove in the middle to clear the nerve. Still too hard. Some people brag about cloud9, but the column on my bike is the wrong diameter for those.
I'm building a 4" thick urethane cushion for the evo. Nobody sells that. I want to ride 70 miles a day to get to concerts or the Amtrak station. I have the cover sewn out of leather. I have 1/8" nylon laces to tie it on. Need to figure some way to mill a hollow in a sofa cushion the shape of a bike seat. Wire brush on 4 1/2" angle grinder was too violent to control. Spray foam insulation is too hard, even though it is urethane.
For kayaks, many people have made comfortable seats out of Minicell (not sure whether it's urethane). The way to shape it is with a convex shaped sanding or grinding tool on an angle grinder. Harbor Freight has such a disk that's steel with an imbedded surface of carbide chunks. The rounded shape makes carving out a hollow easy in the foam.
 
I hope Frank R don't mind, but I want to add some other info here>
I am going thru the same thing > Pain in the Back/Butt.

I am 6.0", 205lbs and 75 yrs old, have 3 fused spine/back joints from the belt line down, have tried 3 different seats, OEM original, Schwinn no nose and now on the C-9 seat, (best so far) on my hard tailed Wart Hog bike,
running 15-F/20-R lbs psi in the tires with a suspension front forks..
I also added a tilting handle bar riser and have raised the H bars up/back towards the seat direction.

I want/need to ride in a straight up position to help stop the pain (Bending forward) towards the H Bars and I have the seat height adjusted down to as short as possible..

The question I have is this, (for a safety aspect only),
I have the adjustable H Bar head pointing towards the front wheel,
Can this H Bar raiser be turned 180* facing the seat, to have the H Bars reach
to shorten this overall distance about 2", which help in riding a more straight up position etc.

I also just added a Suntour NXC adjustable seat post to the C9 seat,
set to med psi, I have not tested this combo yet, too much wind 20-50mph+ blowing. I use this bike for 75% off road rough trail riding and the rest of the time is on dirt/pavement.

Tia,
Don
 
Has anyone tried the using one of the back rest attachments on their saddle?

I would have thought that would be more like sitting in a real chair as you are putting some weight on your back unlike a regular bicycle seat which is like sitting on an uncomfortable stool.
 
I hope Frank R don't mind, but I want to add some other info here>
I am going thru the same thing > Pain in the Back/Butt.

I am 6.0", 205lbs and 75 yrs old, have 3 fused spine/back joints from the belt line down, have tried 3 different seats, OEM original, Schwinn no nose and now on the C-9 seat, (best so far) on my hard tailed Wart Hog bike,
running 15-F/20-R lbs psi in the tires with a suspension front forks..
I also added a tilting handle bar riser and have raised the H bars up/back towards the seat direction.

I want/need to ride in a straight up position to help stop the pain (Bending forward) towards the H Bars and I have the seat height adjusted down to as short as possible..

The question I have is this, (for a safety aspect only),
I have the adjustable H Bar head pointing towards the front wheel,
Can this H Bar raiser be turned 180* facing the seat, to have the H Bars reach
to shorten this overall distance about 2", which help in riding a more straight up position etc.

I also just added a Suntour NXC adjustable seat post to the C9 seat,
set to med psi, I have not tested this combo yet, too much wind 20-50mph+ blowing. I use this bike for 75% off road rough trail riding and the rest of the time is on dirt/pavement.

Tia,
Don
Jones Bicycles invented the H-Bar (not to be confused with the H Bar you mention in your post!), which allows the rider to use multiple positions, including the sitting up straight position. It just might work for you. They also provide the necessary grips & bar end caps to complement the bike. Consideration would have to take place about having the correct length of brake cable/hoses & shifter cables to accomodate the longer bar ends.

Link: https://jonesbikes.com/h-bars/
 
So ...

It helps. Definitely better than without.

But, or should I say, butt - it doesn't quite solve it.

At this point, I am feeling that the pain isn't quite in my butt, but - in my tail bone. It's basically discomfort in the lower spine.
 
So ...

It helps. Definitely better than without.

But, or should I say, butt - it doesn't quite solve it.

At this point, I am feeling that the pain isn't quite in my butt, but - in my tail bone. It's basically discomfort in the lower spine.
My stupid seat post sometimes slowly slips down so I don’t notice it (I am considering replacing it with a non-quick-release one). When it gets only slightly too low my lower back and hip flexors and lastly butt all hurt. You may try messing with the seat height.
 
My stupid seat post sometimes slowly slips down so I don’t notice it (I am considering replacing it with a non-quick-release one). When it gets only slightly too low my lower back and hip flexors and lastly butt all hurt. You may try messing with the seat height.
Often, that quick release cam can be replaced with a nut and bolt of the correct size.
 
Open the Quick release handle and give 1 full turn to tighten it up a bit,
if that don't work then give it 2 full turns.
HTH's
Don
 
Open the Quick release handle and give 1 full turn to tighten it up a bit,
if that don't work then give it 2 full turns.
HTH's
Don
Yes the problem is to get it tight enough you have to be the Incredible Hulk to push it in.
 
@Dmac, Bike stores sell Fiber Grip lube compound. It is mainly used in the assembly of carbon bikes. It works great to prevent slippage without over tightening. I use it regularly.
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