New Rad Rover. Several Questions

[bottomsup]

1. My Front breaks make a rubbing sound. I read to not adjust until past the break in period of 25-50 miles but today at 30 miles I tried to adjust. I followed the rad instructions and did it twice. It's better but I notice the outer pad has lots of space and the inner has none. Normal? Pic of caliper and disk attached

   https://imgur.com/QAv6HPC

2. Also after adjusting the brake I notice the lever has more travel than i'd like. To fix this should I adjust the cable pinch bolt or inner pad brake pad adjustment?
3. I have not ridden a bike I n20 years so i'm no expert but my gear seem like trash. Up shifting to around 5th is fine. 6 rattles, clunks, and never grabs...i try to shift to 7th and it's already in 7th so 6th is messed. Downshifting I get a rattling in the derailleur and have to push the lever up almost the next down gear but not quiet to get it to catch. I also can't get it into first without pushing the thumb lever extra hard.
4. Any recommendations for a phone mount with a cover that won't let in dust but allows the touch screen to work? I looked at top tube bags and there are some that have this but I don't want a top tube bags so looking for a handlebar mount.
5. I some times hear a hollow humming sound when using PAS 3 or above. I'm pretty sure it's the motor but wanted to ask.

Love the bike so far. Having a lot of fun!

 

[AHicks]

There should be air on both sides of the disk. Yes it's a pain, but it's a good brake if set up correctly.

Regarding your gears, watch a couple of youtube videos and adjust your derailleur! That adjustment (or lack of it), can make the bike a pain in the butt to ride, or perfection! If you struggle to come up with the patience to get both the brake and the derailleur perfect, see if you can find a local bike shop that will do it for you. Both of these adjustments are part of a good prep/tune up.

 

[legsofbeer]

I some times hear a hollow humming sound when using PAS 3 or above. I'm pretty sure it's the motor but wanted to ask.

Humming and whirring noise from the motor at higher loads is normal. Not a big deal.

 

[mrgold35]

I have two 2016 Radrovers and monthly brake adjustments were the norm for me. I also had some shipping damage and one brake disk out of true causing a wobble/pad rub. I used a crescent wrench to bend it back a bit. I also noticed around 1/2 of my spokes were not tq to the same level on both wheels. It took anywhere from a 1/2 to 3 full turns to tq them all the same levels and that also helped true up all disk brakes.

I had a hard time getting the derailleur adjusted and shift correctly in all gears. I just went around in circles fixing one gear to just to transfer the issue to another set of gears. I sometimes have to up shift twice and downshift once to stop the noise until I can adjust later. I ended up adjusting the derailleur for smoother operation in the higher gears (4th-7th) since I spend 90% of my time there.

Best bet for your phone is a waterproof case. Those types of cases are usually shock resistance to help protect if you you drop your phone or have an bike accident. Then you can then get any type of phone holder from top tube, handle bar, or handlebar extender types. I added an handlebar extender to center my iphone 6S+ with Mophie case.

Picture of wife's Radcity step-thru with extender. I can display my phone horizontal or vertical. I can also use the USB plug in LCD display to keep it charged while riding.

 

[bottomsup]

No, that's not normal.
You're out of adjustment.

Watch this.

Thanks this helped. I had to move the caliper side to side. The instructions on the rad site didn't mention this. While adjusting I did over tighten the cable pinch bolt and Frey'ed the cable a bit. Should I be concerned with that? it's just a few strands hanging off.

 

[mrgold35]

I used Jagwire MTB cable (cable only, no sleeves). It was an easy job to pull out the old and insert the new. You will need wire cutters, crimp tool, and ends to put on the cables.

 

[BKing]

I used Jagwire MTB cable (cable only, no sleeves). It was an easy job to pull out the old and insert the new. You will need wire cutters, crimp tool, and ends to put on the cables.

If we are allowed to mention places to buy things on here, please everyone include that information with part numbers in your post, it only takes a few seconds and helps everyone a lot.

 

[mrgold35]

If we are allowed to mention places to buy things on here, please everyone include that information with part numbers in your post, it only takes a few seconds and helps everyone a lot.

I purchased the Jagwire MTB replacement cables from Performance Bike shop about 3 years ago. It was a chain bike store that closed up shop in ABQ, NM, in 2019. I can't remember the exact cable model I purchased or the price; but, it needs to be for MTB ready because of the barrel ends like "E4c" that secure withing the Rad brake handles (assuming they haven't changed since 2016).

I just did red outer end caps crimps tips ferrules (60 for $9) and a crimp tool ($12) on Amazon.

This is what my Rad brake cable looked like once I started to break strands from all my brake adjustments. The broken strands started to bunch up within the brake handle and acted like a spring. The brake handle wouldn't return to the normal position sometimes and engaged the motor cut off. All those strands were squeezed into a space between the barrel end and brake cable tension adjustment knob on the handle.

 

[BKing]

Wow! Good info!
Do those cable cutters also have the crimp function?

 

[mrgold35]

Wow! Good info!
Do those cable cutters also have the crimp function?

Yes, the inside metal area next to spring are for crimping. You can probably do the same thing with regular wire cutters and pilers.

Crimp in this area:

 

[ExPatBrit]

I purchased the Jagwire MTB replacement cables from Performance Bike shop about 3 years ago. It was a chain bike store that closed up shop in ABQ, NM, in 2019. I can't remember the exact cable model I purchased or the price; but, it needs to be for MTB ready because of the barrel ends like "E4c" that secure withing the Rad brake handles (assuming they haven't changed since 2016).

View attachment 77270

I just did red outer end caps crimps tips ferrules (60 for $9) and a crimp tool ($12) on Amazon.

View attachment 77267View attachment 77268

This is what my Rad brake cable looked like once I started to break strands from all my brake adjustments. The broken strands started to bunch up within the brake handle and acted like a spring. The brake handle wouldn't return to the normal position sometimes and engaged the motor cut off. All those strands were squeezed into a space between the barrel end and brake cable tension adjustment knob on the handle.
View attachment 77269

I had exactly the same thing happen , the lever made a weird noise . At first I just thought it needed some grease.

 

[BKing]

Cable cutters compress the strands as it cuts, regular cutters will spread them apart. I have the cutters but have always just bought cables with the ends on it. Back in the 70’s the damn ends would pop off just as you really needed some brakes.

 

[AHicks]

Cable cutters compress the strands as it cuts, regular cutters will spread them apart. I have the cutters but have always just bought cables with the ends on it. Back in the 70’s the damn ends would pop off just as you really needed some brakes.

For sure, you would want the correct end on a new cable. Once installed though, installing the little crimp on protective caps to keep the cable from fraying later on, is a pretty easy process.

 

[Taylor57]

Alternatively, you can get hydraulic disc brake.
That's what I did, because I didn't like adjusting my brake every so often.

Yeah, buy the hydraulic add ons, I think I spent 40 bucks and it's night and day..

Amazon.com

 

[mrgold35]

The issue I've had only started when I worked commuted on my radrover at 60-75 miles per week with speeds of 16-23 mph (500 foot elevation change between work and home). It probably didn't help with me being +280 lbs with another 25-35 extra pounds depending on summer or winter commute (rack bag with tools, commuter back pack, winter -vs- summer cloths, water, etc...). The braking power of one TRP Spyre MTB brake is almost the same as both original rad brakes. That kind of emergency braking power comes in handy at +300 lbs on a 75lbs ebike at 20 mph for "no cop, no stop" drivers coming off side streets.

 

[Taylor57]

If we are allowed to mention places to buy things on here, please everyone include that information with part numbers in your post, it only takes a few seconds and helps everyone a lot.

amazon or aliexpress have most everything you need...

 

[Taylor57]

$40??

Yeah, maybe 42. Very easy switch out on the Lectric XP

 

[Taylor57]

That's really cheap for hydraulic brake.. was it ebike specific? One with motor inhibitors ?

I posted the link that had all the details. My son installed it on the XP. He said it was a piece of cake to install...

 

[BKing]

It’s a cable activated, same cable you have. Reviews are not good. Might be ok for riders under 170lbs.

 

[Taylor57]

It’s a cable activated, same cable you have. Reviews are not good. Might be ok for riders under 170lbs.

Yeah, he weighs about 150