New guy from WV. Need help with a battery and probably more. (NOW RIDING)

OK....two pics and questions. I decided I would dump the bag. While I do have quite a bit of electric things, I'm obviously not an electrical engineer. LOL I do understand the relationship to heat and this stuff.

Anyway, I took my 40 volt battery and put two spade connectors in it. Took a jumper to the red black. (yes I do know black is ground, etc.). I just want to make sure........I don't want to mess up my battery. When I went to hook the positive, I got a nice big snap. I suppose I've only messed with 12 volt before. You get a snap but I know what I'm doing is right. I guess 36 volt is going to be more pronounced?

Battery still working in mower. Just ignore the snap or do I have something wrong? (In the picture I do not have the red/blue from the harness connected. I'm guessing that is the brake disconnects).

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Ignore the snap
 
Good to hear it works.

The snap is normal, but not necessarily OK. It comes from inrush current into the capacitors on the controller. With higher voltages, it can discolor the spade connectors. There are larger XT90 connectors that have an anti-spark feature. Some people put a resistor with a shorting switch into their connectors to do the same thing. If you buy a battery with an on/off switch, there's no spark if you connect with power turned off. I used to have a little anti-rush circuit, but I just got used to sparking. Some of my chargers spark too when connected to battery. That's probably bad for them too.
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Now that I see the bike, it looks like fun. The motor/controller look aftermarket. It's stamped 750W and you have a 26A controller, Better fit torque arms even if it is a steel fork. Your lawnmower battery probably cannot supply more than 10=15A, and if you try, it will likely reset. Mine always did. You may find that the wheel slips on gravel, wet leaves, and wet pavement when you start riding.
 
I know the lawn mower battery won't work for anything but testing to see if it works. It does so that meant to me it was worth it to get an actual battery that will work.

I trust you all on the torque arms. I'll get a set made this week while waiting on the battery.

Thanks
 
On the fully charged lawn mower battery. Around the block and...........I have to think it's pretty underpowered at the moment so I wasn't too concerned with the forks but even at that, this is all I'm really looking for.

 
Once the bat
OK....two pics and questions. I decided I would dump the bag. While I do have quite a bit of electric things, I'm obviously not an electrical engineer. LOL I do understand the relationship to heat and this stuff.

Anyway, I took my 40 volt battery and put two spade connectors in it. Took a jumper to the red black. (yes I do know black is ground, etc.). I just want to make sure........I don't want to mess up my battery. When I went to hook the positive, I got a nice big snap. I suppose I've only messed with 12 volt before. You get a snap but I know what I'm doing is right. I guess 36 volt is going to be more pronounced?

Battery still working in mower. Just ignore the snap or do I have something wrong? (In the picture I do not have the red/blue from the harness connected. I'm guessing that is the brake disconnects).

View attachment 24524

View attachment 24525
On the fully charged lawn mower battery. Around the block and...........I have to think it's pretty underpowered at the moment so I wasn't too concerned with the forks but even at that, this is all I'm really looking for.

LOL. You will get the bug and soon have a bigger bike.
 
So here it is. I need to do some cleaning up of wires and a little fine tuning but wow, what fun. I'll have some fun for a bit but I can see where a suspension and disc brakes would come in handy. First ride with a proper battery and I threw a brake pad coming downhill and then had a flat about 2/3 way home. Flat was my own stupidity. I knew I should have put a new tube in when I put the larger tire on the back today.

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