New e-triker

[uniquebobc]

Recently installed a Tongsheng TSDZ2 e-assist system on my ICE Adventure FS recumbent trike. The trike is equipped with a Rohloff Speedhub. The TSDZ2 is a 500W. Battery is a 960W (48V, 20A) battery. I purchased the Open Source Firmware (OSF) so I could refine the functioning of the motor, particularly to allow my usual average cadence exceeding 90 rpm (the limit with the stock firmware). I also want make the functioning of the motor such that battery charge lasts as long as possible. I will post questions that relate to optimizing performance.

 

[PedalUma]

Cool!
Would you please post a photo of your build?
This motor likes smooth pedaling to go the distance. Practice a swimming like smoothness using the calves and ankles. Not a pounding motion. Higher cadence is preferable. This technique will prevent spikes in the controller. It is how I can do huge climbs and go long distances with this motor while using a three-pound battery.
Sometime as an experiment, try disconnecting the throttle (if you have one) and the speed sensor (yellow). Report back on how this feels.

 

[uniquebobc]

I still have a slight uneven pedaling motion; however, over the years, I have smoothed-out my pedaling rhythm as much as I can. I do spin (sometimes up to 110-115 rpm) to save my knees. I noticed slight variations in the human power and motor power as I pedal. Could this be a result of inaccurate calibration of the motor for right vs. left pedals (torque forces are usually less for a recumbent and definitely in different directions than an upright bike)? I’ll try disconnecting the speed sensor when I ride next time (no throttle). I went nearly 90 miles on the initial full battery charge. I was hoping for slightly more (the last 12 miles were harder pedaling).

BTW, why is the motor power displayed in red figures?

 

[PedalUma]

Nice bike and a nice build. I am glad that you are clipping in to get the pull.
I am not sure about the red. Is that an 850c display? It is not showing an error indicator. Does red change to green when you are going, but then red again when stopped. I have not seen that before.

Here is what I call the metric conversion trick. Tell the display that you have 12in wheels, not 20. That is a 40% lesser diameter than actual. Then put the display into Metric from Imperial. A Km is 40% smaller than a mile. Try it sometime to test the upper speed limit cutoff speed. How much faster can you go this way? When the display reads 27 how fast are you really going?