New bike owner needing help on this issue.

Glenn2000

New Member
I have a Bafang bbshd 48v 14.5ah Sanyo battery bike, does great until about 50% power showing on display and on battery pack. When going up even slight grade with throttle battery will show no bars blink and power shuts off but still is showing about 400 watts but it’s not enough to continue. Let off throttle the battery display goes back up and shows 50% and 10 mile range.
Taking battery off at this point and testing voltage it is at 46.9 volts. Do you think that it is dipping that much under a load that it would be hitting the low voltage cut off. If so what good is a rating that is really only good for half of that if you try going uphill.
 
Watts is a power rating correlated to force pushing on the road at given speed. Watt hours is correlated to distance available. AmpHours * nominal voltage=watt hours. Amps * actual voltage=roughly watts.
I bought two trash batteries allegedly made of sanyo cells. I didn't know sanyo sold batteries. Only cells that other people assemble, or not. One from btrbattery of amazon, one from the baldwin city warehouse of sun ebike via ebay. Neither would put 4.8 amps at full charge into a 10 ohm 450 watt resistor. Both allegedly had a 50 A rating. The voltage would collapse to 11 on the first, 7 on the other, under load. Exposing the bms board on the 2nd one proved that only 2 of the 11 parallel stacks were even connected to the bms. I got my money back from amazon since that one would stay at 11 volts after it stalled on the road. The 2nd one would bounce back to 51 after stalling on the road and I had to do a static test to prove it bad, which took more than 31 days.
I suggest you do a similar test on your battery alone with resistor & DVM. Unloaded voltage doesn't mean anything if the internal welds are bad. Analyzing with a controller display only tells you that when the screen went blank, you were pedaling without power. Which you knew anyway. That could mean a connection in your wire harness or controller is high resistance. If you prove your battery is garbage, and you had it less than 31 days, you can get your money back from Amazon or Ebay.
See the sticky thread at the top about services that repair batteries. I read there is one in LA, one in Las Vegas, one in Ohio. UPS won't ship a battery from a source not certified in haz-mat shipping. That is you.
 
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Watts is a power rating correlated to force pushing on the road at given speed. Watt hours is correlated to distance available. AmpHours * nominal voltage=watt hours. Amps * actual voltage=roughly watts.
I bought two trash batteries allegedly made of sanyo cells. I didn't know sanyo sold batteries. Only cells that other people assemble, or not. One from btrbattery of amazon, one from the baldwin city warehouse of sun ebike via ebay. Neither would put 4.8 amps at full charge into a 10 ohm 450 watt resistor. Both allegedly had a 50 A rating. The voltage would collapse to 11 on the first, 7 on the other, under load. Exposing the bms board on the 2nd one proved that only 2 of the 11 parallel stacks were even connected to the bms. I got my money back from amazon since that one would stay at 11 volts after it stalled on the road. The 2nd one would bounce back to 51 after stalling on the road and I had to do a static test to prove it bad, which took more than 31 days.
I suggest you do a similar test on your battery alone with resistor & DVM. Unloaded voltage doesn't mean anything if the internal welds are bad. Analyzing with a controller display only tells you that when the screen went blank, you were pedaling without power. Which you knew anyway. That could mean a connection in your wire harness or controller is high resistance. If you prove your battery is garbage, and you had it less than 31 days, you can get your money back from Amazon or Ebay.
See the sticky thread at the top about services that repair batteries. I read there is one in LA, one in Las Vegas, one in Ohio. UPS won't ship a battery from a source not certified in haz-mat shipping. That is you.
Thanks for the response my first thought was the battery having a issue but after 2 times recharging and it happens again at about the same time only 8 to 10 miles on a battery rated 20 plus thought it could be just a low voltage setting being wrong. But bought a bigger 48volt 21ah battery hopefully that will tell me if it was my problem unless I get 2 bad ones then that would suck.
 
Thanks for the response my first thought was the battery having a issue but after 2 times recharging and it happens again at about the same time only 8 to 10 miles on a battery rated 20 plus thought it could be just a low voltage setting being wrong. But bought a bigger 48volt 21ah battery hopefully that will tell me if it was my problem unless I get 2 bad ones then that would suck.
Also wanted to mention you are correct it is the cells that are Sanyo not the battery the new one will have LG 18650 cells.
 
more power.... you just can't seem to feed that motor enough electrons fast enough for 1000 watt+- it wants .... & we all wish batteries were cheaper,smaller,lighter :) good luck...
 
Something is wonky. All of my 48V and 52V batteries, 3P to 8P, ran my BBSHD’s to the set low voltage cutout.
22P, PF, 29E and other cells.

How old, and how many miles on the battery?

who built the battery?
 
Something is wonky. All of my 48V and 52V batteries, 3P to 8P, ran my BBSHD’s to the set low voltage cutout.
22P, PF, 29E and other cells.

How old, and how many miles on the battery?

who built the battery?
It’s a new bike from Biktrix doing this from day 1 now has 60 miles on bike they’re telling me they think it’s normal voltage sag during load but not buying this who wants a bike to only work good for the first 50% of battery life. I drove 2 hours to place I hunt to try out thinking I had 15 miles I could ride made it in 1 mile and had this happen very disappointed so far. Going try out the New battery but if it does this as it gets lower on battery then I believe the range is totally misrepresented unless you are on flat ground.
 
Do you get a full charge? 54.6?
I’d do a few long charge, like 8 hours. BUT ONLY WHEN YOU CAN MONITOR
 
I believe the range is totally misrepresented unless you are on flat ground
Most sellers do, but there are so many factors that affect the mileage. Are you running up steep grades? What are your speeds and in what gear range up hill?
 
""I believe the range is totally misrepresented unless you are on flat ground""

maybe ......downhill at walking speed...with wind at your back...
 
I have a feeling you're trying to run at full throttle at 46V, you will see a drop. It's an eBike, not a motorcycle.
 
I was looking at this BBS programming guide


Looking at some of those numbers, max throttle could pull down your voltage by 4.2v. At 50% battery life (47v), that would put you at 42.7v which is lower than some of the cutoff settings for certain brands (set at 43v).

The BBSHD has advanced settings that allow you to specify the battery you are using. Maybe specifying a 48v battery lower that cutoff to 40v or even 38v.

I can set the type of battery through my menu (DPC-14 Bafang display). I can set 24v, 36v, 48v or user defined (UBE).
 
Was able to try the new battery today thought I was going to die trying to get the 21.5 battery to give up on I did throttle only just to run it down went 21 miles before it did like the other one but only showed 6 miles left on.battery before it stopped was able to do assist to get the rest of the way home.
So what I learned get the biggest battery you can and be much happier.
 
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