Akrotiri
Well-Known Member
- Region
- Europe
So mine are 6 bolt correct ?Center lock looks like this:
View attachment 71867
As you can see, no bolts are apparent.
Hopefully, this helps.
So mine are 6 bolt correct ?Center lock looks like this:
View attachment 71867
As you can see, no bolts are apparent.
Hopefully, this helps.
Thank you6bolt. And new bolts are included.
What for?Going to order that park tool as well.
You don't think they will be available latter, or you ride 4,000 miles a year?No just ordering spares to have in my personal stock.
I’m on pace for 3k miles a year and I think if things get worse with pandemic their might be extreme shortages.You don't think they will be available latter, or you ride 4,000 miles a year?
I thought I needed the park tool when I thought it may have been center lock like Alaskans but he has the 9.9If you have 6 bolts that you can hold in your hand, it is not centerlock.
Centerlock has zero bolts. Instead, there is a large center ring that you fasten with the park tool.
In post #19, I see a bolt. Hence it is not centerlock. Not sure why you would need the tool. Unless you intend on changing wheels. My original wheel was 6 bolt. It broke and I ordered a DT Swiss as a replacement. That came with a 6 bolt to centerlock adaptor. So I had to buy the centerlock tool.
Wheel tech is somewhat confusing... I spent about 5 hours browsing to find an adequate replacement for my original wheel.
I thought I needed it because Tyson in post #8 tried to convince me I had I had center lock.If you have 6 bolts that you can hold in your hand, it is not centerlock.
Centerlock has zero bolts. Instead, there is a large center ring that you fasten with the park tool.
In post #19, I see a bolt. Hence it is not centerlock. Not sure why you would need the tool. Unless you intend on changing wheels. My original wheel was 6 bolt. It broke and I ordered a DT Swiss as a replacement. That came with a 6 bolt to centerlock adaptor. So I had to buy the centerlock tool.
Wheel tech is somewhat confusing... I spent about 5 hours browsing to find an adequate replacement for my original wheel.
Didn't try to convince anyone of anything, rather pointed out the fact that you identified your rotor as "definitely" looking like a picture of a centerlock rotor when in fact it was a 6 bolt rotor.I thought I needed it because Tyson in post #8 tried to convince me I had I had center lock.
Ok thank you misread what was saidDidn't try to convince anyone of anything, rather pointed out the fact that you identified your rotor as "definitely" looking like a picture of a centerlock rotor when in fact it was a 6 bolt rotor.
I was crazy confused by all this a month ago when I was ordering spare rotors for my Domane+ HP and wanted to make sure Akrotiri or others reading this thread had clear information.
It is advisable to first look at the rotor and brake caliper model and then check which brake pads are suitable. You might be surprised.I haven’t even looked at my rotors yet but I have ordered 2 pair of brake pads.
Well, let’s assume for a moment I have brains enough (without you telling me) to look up the brake pads that my bike came with and assume, like most, that the rotors will outlast the pads. You might be surprised.It is advisable to first look at the rotor and brake caliper model and then check which brake pads are suitable. You might be surprised.
Because you get various combinations even with the same bike model and model year, which could lead to: doesn't fit.
All one needs to know is what original stock pads the bike uses and simply purchase the same ones like I did and others have done.There might be a range of brake pads to choose from other than the pads that came with the bike. Knowing the brake caliper and rotor helps. But as you assume: you have brains enough, don't need my thoughts.
depends magura makes three different brake pads for their calipers plus you can get koolstop pads too. different pads give a different brake experience. with magura you just look at the color.All one needs to know is what original stock pads the bike uses and simply purchase the same ones like I did and others have done.
yes I learned the hard way I tried metallic pads on my rotors seemed ok till it rained man they got this warble souncthat even when try would not go away and going back to the resin pads did not make it go away got tired of it and bought a new set of the same rotors. but yet 6k miles does not wear rotors muchI interpreted @TS25 as saying that pads and rotors are paired together, so if you are replacing both, best make sure they are complementary. For e.g., I replaced my resin pads with metallic pads for longer life, so I bought corresponding rotors that could handle metallic pads.
As for rotor life, I would be really surprised if rotors wore out after 6-7.5k miles. They are determined to be worn after a certain level of thickness. But surely, there are edge cases where they wear quickly!
Yep! I've had metallics on a mtb and biked in the rain a lot, and it sounds like a freight train when you are downhill braking hahyes I learned the hard way I tried metallic pads on my rotors seemed ok till it rained man they got this warble souncthat even when try would not go away and going back to the resin pads did not make it go away got tired of it and bought a new set of the same rotors. but yet 6k miles does not wear rotors much
Just to be clear, I did look at my rotors to see the model info. I did not look at replacing them. Yet.I haven’t even looked at my rotors yet but I have ordered 2 pair of brake pads.