My UC Pro has arrived

Pushkar is working on the problem with my chain skipping.
The chain crossing when on the smaller cassette cogs is huge.
Adjusting the derailleur or taking out a couple of links won't solve this problem.
Can't help you with chain crossing... sounds like an alignment issue, but with the chain skipping its worth thinking about. My first cassette lasted less than 200 miles. Skipping from day one. My 2nd cassette is nearing 2k miles and no issues.
 
The photo may not show it, but the the chain-crossing is huge. The chain actually kinks to the side.

yVCIZe6.jpg
 
yeah that won't be good with this motor... that's too far out of alignment... I can see that increasing the chance of chain skipping, gears changing etc etc...

Hopefully Pushkar can provide a different chainring spider to pull that chain line further out.
 
The photo may not show it, but the the chain-crossing is huge. The chain actually kinks to the side.

yVCIZe6.jpg
For all I know my bike does that ( be checking tomorrow ) but I never use the top two gears or even the top three really. But then I'm not a commuter or street/path rider.
 
I have to address the elephant in this room:
Why/How the hell does an expensive bike like this pass QC and then be sent to the customer???
R&M prices with barely Walmart quality/operation.
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Ironic intro really considering where quite a few people are at the mo. Fixing things....
 
I just did a quick measurement of the amount of chain crossing from the front ring to the smallest cassette ring.
It's approximately 30mm.
Interestingly, the chain is straight when it's on the 8th cassette ring. I can see why the Hydra guys, who often ride in the larger cassette rings don't have much, if any, chain skipping.
 
And you got a light running off the main battery? Envious, would not recommend for me and I pushed for it
 
Did you try the 'B'-screw? This can bring the derailleur closer to the smaller cogs for more engagement.
 
PedalUma the derailleur is as close as possible without rubbing, but even if it wasn't I don't think adjusting it would help one bit.
Look at the chain cross photo I posted yesterday (22). The cross chaining from the front ring to the smallest rear cog is huge. I rough measured it at approx 30mm.
 
PedalUma the derailleur is as close as possible without rubbing, but even if it wasn't I don't think adjusting it would help one bit.
Look at the chain cross photo I posted yesterday (22). The cross chaining from the front ring to the smallest rear cog is huge. I rough measured it at approx 30mm.
Something simple and easy to do for you would be to get a fat bike chainring adapter. That’s going to have way more offset than set of spacers would give.
 
I really like the titanium frame. I think this frame is designed for belt/igh with a cutout. Probably with a derailleur one needs a spacer to prevent cross chaining.
I wonder if the chain still skips when assist is off or low?

On the bright side there should be an easy fix and if one day op wants to go with an igh and belt it should be doable without much trouble.
 
Here's some more photos. The only thing that bothers me about the bike (looks-wise) is the external wiring. The black electrican tape on the top of the motor case is my doing. To hide those wires I'd have to drop the motor. which I don't want to do, for now anyways.

czny9K7.jpg


uLmfkTz.jpg


YCCKw5Z.jpg


3virFUZ.jpg
Very nice Deacon. So apparent how much thought you have in this.
M7's too. A handsome machine. Is that the Med size frame ?
I can't wait to hear more.
And thanks for great photos.
Fn'F
Pushkar is working on the problem with my chain skipping.
The chain crossing when on the smaller cassette cogs is huge.
Adjusting the derailleur or taking out a couple of links won't solve this problem.
Bummed to hear about the skipping.
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I wonder where the internal wiring ports went?
I'm thinking those multiple, bulky connectors are the problem (again). Plugs won't fit the hole.
Omitting lights and definitely going wireless shifting, that leaves one wire set from the display, one from the throttle, M7's cutoff wires and two 'hydraulic' lines. There are Bafang brand 3Pin/4Pin/5Pin/9Pin Plug Connector Ebike Cable extensions on Amazon, but that wiring harness splitter needs longer leads.
That's rack's different. Twisted steel bars on an aluminum rack? I like the other better, with tube arms.
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I laugh about queries regarding the battery. Not sure about 'hidden', but a Ti 'cased' external battery would be awesome.
Aside from the real world requirements, once sorted out I know this bike'll be an ultimate badass for years and the retro battery look is perfect for your timeless machine.
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Again, so much thanks for the scoops. I'm had anticipated the wiring situation, but jumping cogs was not on the program.
I'm sure you'll get it perfect.
I really need to know why this is happening too.

Fn'F
 
Here's some more photos. The only thing that bothers me about the bike (looks-wise) is the external wiring. The black electrican tape on the top of the motor case is my doing. To hide those wires I'd have to drop the motor. which I don't want to do, for now anyways.

czny9K7.jpg


uLmfkTz.jpg


YCCKw5Z.jpg


3virFUZ.jpg
Very nice Deacon. So apparent how much thought you have in this.
M7's too. A handsome machine. Is that the Med size frame ?
I can't wait to hear more.
And thanks for great photos.
Fn'F
Pushkar is working on the problem with my chain skipping.
The chain crossing when on the smaller cassette cogs is huge.
Adjusting the derailleur or taking out a couple of links won't solve this problem.
Bummed to hear about the skipping.
I note the cable routing not worked out by WW.
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Where did the internal wiring ports go?
I'm thinking those multiple, bulky connectors are the problem (again). Plugs won't fit the hole.
I'm omitting lights and definitely going wireless shifting. That leaves one wire set from the display, one from the throttle and two 'hydraulic' lines and w/ M7's cutoff wires there's one more It'd be nice if the Magura wires were longer
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That's rack's not 'as advertised'.
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I laugh about queries regarding the battery. Not sure about 'hidden', but a Ti 'cased' external battery would be awesome.
I know I'd pay for that extra pound.
Aside from the real world requirements, once sorted out I know this bike'll be an ultimate badass for years and the retro battery look is perfect for your timeless machine.
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Again, so much thanks for the scoops. I'm sharing what I had anticipated, but jumping cogs was not on the program.
I'm sure you'll get it perfect,

Fn'F
 
PedalUma the derailleur is as close as possible without rubbing, but even if it wasn't I don't think adjusting it would help one bit.
Look at the chain cross photo I posted yesterday (22). The cross chaining from the front ring to the smallest rear cog is huge. I rough measured it at approx 30mm.
It should be near straight in 6th gear. If not, either the stock ring adapter is reversed for your bikes width, or you require a larger offset adapter.
Your photo looks like your chain would be aligned in 10th gear. That say's you need to offset the distance of 4 cogs.
Buying an offset adapter that allows you to use generic ring gears can't be bad. To me it's a basic must have.
By moving out just a tad, you can run anything reasonable to get your particular combination without being too close too the stay.
My understanding is as you say, the 11sp would be better than the 12 ... and a 9sp would be ideal - my (cough, cough) opine.
I reason (cough, cough): a 9sp 48T with 48 x 12 gears maxes low 40's; Cruises in 23 to 33 range with; - in high gear.
It has 6 teeth on the chain, not 5 like the 12sp; the derailleur travels 1/3 the total range to shift and your chain line is 1/3 less off kilter in highest or lowest gears than a 12sp.
So, 1/3 of twelve being four, in the your highest 12sp gear your chain would be aligned as you're now aligned in eighth gear and your lowest in fourth - but with an additional tooth gripping in the high gear cogs.
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This affects me too.
If I'm incorrect, someone should tell me. The clock is ticking on my order. I can see in a straight line and that chaps my hide.
I expect performance that adheres to the the known standards.
Deacon's chain line is impossible for a reliable City - Anywhere - Cross Tour. 🤮
On the other side, I don't rage at Pushkar. These bikes don't come road tested - though instituting a policy of testing the rear assembly, being certain the chain alignment is centered correct when in the middle gear is not too damn much to ask either.
There are no problems, only solutions.
The more I learn, the less I like these wunderkind improvements. I'm here for the Titanium Ultra. The form that fits the function is my outlook.









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'Scuse me homie.
But wasn't that was the Cross Tour settin' all those records - not the Ultimate Commuter?
 
Using a straight edge on the front chain ring the chain looks to be straight on the 8th cassette cog.

The record setting bike had (I believe) a Rohloff hub.

I'm going to go out on a limb here and say that I don't think there is anyone in the past who purchased a Pro or CT with a derailleur setup.
If I'm wrong I'd love to have anyone who owns a UC Pro or Cross Tour with a Shimano 11sp groupset join this conversation and give their feedback.

Now I wish I had ordered my Pro with the Kindernay hub. It's A LOT more expensive and there's been some quality issues in the past, but at least I'd be able to ride my bike. :confused:
 
Using a straight edge on the front chain ring the chain looks to be straight on the 8th cassette cog.

The record setting bike had (I believe) a Rohloff hub.

I'm going to go out on a limb here and say that I don't think there is anyone in the past who purchased a Pro or CT with a derailleur setup.
If I'm wrong I'd love to have anyone who owns a UC Pro or Cross Tour with a Shimano 11sp groupset join this conversation and give their feedback.

Now I wish I had ordered my Pro with the Kindernay hub. It's A LOT more expensive and there's been some quality issues in the past, but at least I'd be able to ride my bike. :confused:
Is there any chance you could try moving the chainring on the spider as shown by scrambler in post #24?

You would lose the chainguards though.

My 2 Brose MId Drive Bikes came with a spider as shown in that diagram. For one of the bikes, two chainrings where used and the other had a single chainring with chaining guards (chainring was mounted on inner part of spider, outer guard was mounted directly to outer part of spider and inner guard was mounted on spacers off the chainring).

I personally would like to have a derailler based UC Pro
 
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