So you guys are talking specifically about the LMT'D right? Cuz I believe the original poster when referring to the amps settings was referring to his 700?
My amps were set at 18 Ride1up suggest 11
- Thread starter Bikeman
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With the new controller, does it actually save your change to that PAS 0/1 current setting after changing PAS level and going back in, or does it still reset to the default?
Yes, you were right. I’d charge my bike up for six hours. Went out and rode it until the battery was about 10% (One time I went a little lower even, just to try and get the higher cells down lower). Went and put it on the charger for six hours again. Did this about five or six times.
One time I even let it get down to about five but my display for the lowest setting was 42.5 so I knew it wouldn’t hurt it.
I fly electric RC and have chargers that you get to watch the voltage of the cells so I know about balancing.
I love this bike so much I can’t stop riding it. I’ve been doing about 30 miles a day (A couple of days I’ve been 50) and have almost 500 miles on my bike now. I used to have to charge up twice a day so I got the feel of the charger.
It seems with all my experience with batteries, the battery on my bike is hard to keep balanced. I need to charge it 100% before I go riding.
When I come home at night after my nighttime ride, I let it cool a little bit and then charge it up to 70 to 90% and then finish it in the morning before a ride.
Even if I still have 35% left it still takes the full six hours. I found a nice 48v charger from Vruzend that’s a 3A with a fan I am thinking about getting.
I did research and 3A won’t harm the battery. I found a four amp won’t even harm it but I’m just gonna compromise on the 48v 3A Charger for $34.99.
With all my experience with batteries, how I would not of remembered when you first get batteries they don’t work right. I’ve had this time and time again with my RC airplanes. It takes several cycles to get the battery to work right.
Thanks ahicks for the reminder. Been out of Internet for a week so I wasn’t able to check back but I wanted to post back.
One thing though, for week my green light would never go on. Ride1up sent me a new charger (then I did the 5-6) and after that it worked so it could be the charger.
not sure if this is the right thread for this but as others have reported if I charge my battery on my 700 series fully until the light turns green it takes a rather long time for the display to read less than 100%. In the new updated YouTube video Kevin describes how to adjust the voltage on the display so that it would be more accurate. So I was wondering if you fully charged the battery until the light goes green and it stops accepting any more charging, using a smart plug for energy monitor of some sort, would it make sense to set the level 5 voltage to whatever is reading on the battery at the time.
AHicks
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Been flying RC for 50 years or so. Learned much of what I know by coming up through the new battery technologies as they became available there, so I was able to hit the ground running when my first e-bike followed me home about 5 years ago.
RC experience will treat you well here. One exception personally, is all the talk about not overcharging - at the expense of frequent balance charging. I don't buy into that - especially with the huge cell count in our bike batteries - not with the experience I have in RC.....
RC experience will treat you well here. One exception personally, is all the talk about not overcharging - at the expense of frequent balance charging. I don't buy into that - especially with the huge cell count in our bike batteries - not with the experience I have in RC.....
AHicks
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I wouldn't care too much about where that green light left the battery state of charge. What WOULD be nice is knowing the display and a good voltmeter agree on the battery voltage - whatever it is.
Yeah that's true I have a good voltmeter I guess I could Pop the battery out and give it a look. I noticed when fully charged until the battery stops accepting power I'm just over 54 volts according to the display.
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Okay so the battery is reading fully charged and it says 55 volts on the display. When I pull the battery out that's what I see on the bottom so I'm curious as to where I should put the red and black leads for the voltmeter? The sure answer would be to unscrew the two screws that hold the battery mount in the bottom and put them right on the red and black wires coming off of that but I don't really feel like removing it. I can see that it is labeled positive and negative on either side of those rows of connections so I guess I'll just touch one from each side
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So in the interests of science I pulled the battery holder/mount on the bottom out on my lunch break and I connected the volt meter to the two leads. The display was reading 54.8 v and I pulled the battery and it was reading 54.3 volts. So it seems pretty accurate. So I took a picture of the display settings and then change them. I bumped the voltage in level 5 from 48 volts up to 52. Interestingly it only let me bump it up to 50 and then I set it there, exit it out then went back in and it allowed me to raise it up. I then just picked the back end of the bike up and hit the throttle a few times to use a little bit of juice and the voltage dropped a 10th, I switched over to percent and it had dropped from 100% to 99.
Oh and when I stopped charging the light was green and the battery was continually accepting less juice, by the time I unplugged it it was only taken 5 watts, I figure I'm never going to charge it more than that so that could be a 100% basically more or less.
Oh and when I stopped charging the light was green and the battery was continually accepting less juice, by the time I unplugged it it was only taken 5 watts, I figure I'm never going to charge it more than that so that could be a 100% basically more or less.
I underestimated the time to charge my battery. I woke up this morning with 90% battery. It’s been three hours and the green light hasn’t come on yet.
It’s been having such a hard time balancing since I bought the bike. Hope this isn’t a indication of problems down the road.
i’ve been waiting all morning to go riding. It’s almost afternoon.
It’s been having such a hard time balancing since I bought the bike. Hope this isn’t a indication of problems down the road.
i’ve been waiting all morning to go riding. It’s almost afternoon.
I plugged mine in when it was pretty close to full and it takes awhile for the charger to turn green. I'm not a battery expert but maybe as it gets closer to full it charges slower? Maybe the balancing aspect? What's the voltage when you turn on the display?
I would just take it for a ride if you don't need 100% of your range and then plug it in later if need be
I would just take it for a ride if you don't need 100% of your range and then plug it in later if need be
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On my battery if I do anything but wait till the green lights on, I get horrible performance. It’s green light or nothing for me.
I would guess that that means each cell is draining significantly faster than others. That doesn’t sound too good to me.
That’s why I am ordering the 3A charger this weekend because this 2A, stuff is ridiculous.
The chargers we get with our bikes is the lowest sans makes. $17.99 retail. It’s actually for skateboards.
Someone reported that one up said to keep using that charger. That’s ridiculous. I would encourage somebody to get a better charger on anything electrical. The better the charger the better it is for the battery.
I can’t understand why so many people like it when they get on the bike and drive a couple blocks there battery percentage goes down. I love it when it stays at 100% for a little while. I had mine at 48V but it dropped to quick after that so Set it to 50v.
Bikeman
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I assume a 3A charger wouldn't harm the battery? I think it drops quicker when you set it at 50 volts, I mean actually the battery itself is dropping the same amount regardless. If you set it to 48 volts it will read 100% a lot longer, I think it stays at 100% until You get below 48 volts, I'm not sure about that I'm going to have to check it. When I first fully charged my bike and it was set at 48 volts I rode it for almost 20 miles before it dropped at all, now I have it set at 52 volts and I charged it all the way until the light went green yesterday and after 10 miles it dropped 17%. But I think that is more accurate because that means each mile is dropping 1.7% charge which means you would get approximately 58 mi per charge with those conditions. I get the enjoyment of fully charging it and seeing it reading 100% for a much longer time but to me that is really a false reading.
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No, 3A won’t hurt it. With these cells we can go up to 6A it but that’s about as high as you want to go. The “DC connector” would probably get too hot as it’s used on lower amperage units.
I’d really like to get an inexpensive 4A with a fan but they really jump up in price. Hard to find a good deal on a 4A.
The 3A will charge our battery’s from empty to full in a little over 4 hours. If you still have some left maybe three 3 1/2 hours. That’s a lot better than the six I have now.
I’d really like to get an inexpensive 4A with a fan but they really jump up in price. Hard to find a good deal on a 4A.
The 3A will charge our battery’s from empty to full in a little over 4 hours. If you still have some left maybe three 3 1/2 hours. That’s a lot better than the six I have now.
Limeybastard
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So for those with later revised models , do these settings stick or change currently ? Should I set to factory default ? I configured most my values to what the YouTube Ride1Up video had.
It depends what settings you mean by "these". It looks like there were quite a few posts in this thread about different settings. AMPS per assist level won't stick on my newer revision 700, but I can (and have) changed the PAS percentages. And I set to my battery indicator to show voltage instead of percentage.
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