My amps were set at 18 Ride1up suggest 11

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I’ve been thinking about that. I wanted one up to tell me to do that before I did it on my own. Support is usually two full days, so I won’t get that answer till next Wednesday. I’m afraid to ask. I’m afraid they’ll tell me to put air in my tires.

I am thinking about sending the bike back but that’s hundreds of dollars and rad bikes are sold out this year.

Who knows what kind of damage has been done to my motor and internal controller or even the Display screen.

Not sure what to do with the support advice of putting my assistant zero. I guess that’s support is done on this apparently. That’s all they got. with the holiday weekend Any other help I guess I’m not going to get a response till Tuesday or Wednesday.

I got a bad charger also. I can charge the battery all day long and it never goes green. Touch it and you can Burn your hand off. Hope it doesn’t explode. I guess on other forums there’s a bad batch because many people are complaining about their chargers.

Funny, I can go around a few blocks in my neighborhood twice, and get the battery down 20%. We can’t charge it properly because the chargers defective. I never got a response from my first charge support.
Thank you for the help.
I'm pretty sure the watts are supposed to jump around. The highest I've seen is mid 800 Watts.
I tried switching the speed sensor setting to 12 ( to match the 12 magnets on the cadence sensor ). The bike ran fine , thought it felt peppier but could be the placebo effect, but I noticed the speedometer wasn't working anymore so I set it back to 1. I'm still experimenting with changing the PAS levels but for now I'm leaving it at 12. In the Youtube video Kevin said the 'sensitivity' adjustment on the display page would change the PAS sensitivity but the manual says it changes the sensitivity of the display to ambient lighting.
Kevin replied to my email, great support so far, and said I shouldn't change the assistant num or speed sensor number and to reset to default if in doubt.
 
I saw that. I thought somebody mentioned being to update the software after you received the bike. I think I'm going to set my PAS to 0-7.
Yes, that post I linked to was referring to "after" you received the bike. Bottom line is that you have to contact Ride1Up for the software update. I do not know how they provide it from there, whether via download or whatever. In that particular thread, it was regarding the throttle not working while you were pedaling. If yours is working, it sounds like you don't need the update. What are you power percentage settings in the 1-7 levels?
 
Yes, that post I linked to was referring to "after" you received the bike. Bottom line is that you have to contact Ride1Up for the software update. I do not know how they provide it from there, whether via download or whatever. In that particular thread, it was regarding the throttle not working while you were pedaling. If yours is working, it sounds like you don't need the update. What are you power percentage settings in the 1-7 levels?
I just adjusted it literally 5 minutes ago from 0 to 9 to 0 to 7. I'll check The levels later and take a pic of it
 
That's how I set them. Going to try it out later. As for charger issues I think 100% isn't really 100% . First time I charged it was off the bike as I was building it and I left it plugged in until the light went green. The next day on my first ride I went almost 20 miles before the battery dropped at all . The next time I charged it to 100% I unplugged it sooner while the light was still red I took it for a ride and there was a noticeable drop in battery percentage after about 5 mi or less. I also made some setting changes before that ride but I don't think that was it because I just plugged it in today and about an hour and a half ago the display was reading 100% but the light was still red, I just checked on it now and the light is still red and my Sense energy app says it's still pulling 110 Watts. Makes me wonder if it isn't pre-programmed to read 100% when it's more like 85 or 90% for battery preservation.
 

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This is what I found out.

I switch the number from one back up to three. I went riding 4 or 5 times over a couple days and my current limit number stayed at 11. I thought I fixed it but after a couple days of riding I noticed it changed to six again.

Another thing that really baffles my mind and I just cannot understand is this.
Ride one up ships a bike with the computer all set up. People have complained the battery % is way inaccurate. Kevin tells us to go in and adjust the voltage for each pass assist level to make it so the battery % is correct.
Why doesn’t he ship the bike with the settings set so the batteries accurate? I don’t understand this.

My rad friend and I did the loop tonight. It’s 10 miles. He did it on pass assist zero, throttle only all the way around. I did mine in pedal assist two and three and when we got done his battery was 100%, and mine was 38% (accurate).

In five days of riding I have 208 miles on it now. I cannot get off this thing. I ride all day and don’t get off of it till midnight sometimes. At night the rad headlight is very significantly brighter than mine. Going through the trees section it’s scary on my bike but OK with him because we can see.

I am so amazed that our bikes are shipped set up with Very inaccurate battery level that we’re supposed to change it when we get it. Every bike that I’ve researched when you get it it’s all set up perfect. Everything works good. I just cannot understand this.
 
I missed a few days of checking this and I didn’t see your percentages. Most people don’t have them consistent. I don’t understand why? I have mine 0 to 5 like this,

20%, 40%, 60%, 80%, 96%.

this way each pedal assist is consistently all the way up. Am I missing something? Why almost everybody has non-consistent numbers?
 
I missed a few days of checking this and I didn’t see your percentages. Most people don’t have them consistent. I don’t understand why? I have mine 0 to 5 like this,

20%, 40%, 60%, 80%, 96%.

this way each pedal assist is consistently all the way up. Am I missing something? Why almost everybody has non-consistent numbers?
Where you set the percentages us just personal preference. I went back to 0-9 PAS. I'm not sure setting the voltages will do anything regarding battery percentage accuracy but what do I know. R1UP is sending me a cable do I can update the software on my display.
I don't see how your buddies Rad can go 10 miles on throttle only and have 100% battery. That sounds like an inaccurate battery reading. I've found when charging my 700 the display reads 100% before it really is IMHO.
 
This is what I found out.

I switch the number from one back up to three. I went riding 4 or 5 times over a couple days and my current limit number stayed at 11. I thought I fixed it but after a couple days of riding I noticed it changed to six again.

Another thing that really baffles my mind and I just cannot understand is this.
Ride one up ships a bike with the computer all set up. People have complained the battery % is way inaccurate. Kevin tells us to go in and adjust the voltage for each pass assist level to make it so the battery % is correct.
Why doesn’t he ship the bike with the settings set so the batteries accurate? I don’t understand this.

My rad friend and I did the loop tonight. It’s 10 miles. He did it on pass assist zero, throttle only all the way around. I did mine in pedal assist two and three and when we got done his battery was 100%, and mine was 38% (accurate).

In five days of riding I have 208 miles on it now. I cannot get off this thing. I ride all day and don’t get off of it till midnight sometimes. At night the rad headlight is very significantly brighter than mine. Going through the trees section it’s scary on my bike but OK with him because we can see.

I am so amazed that our bikes are shipped set up with Very inaccurate battery level that we’re supposed to change it when we get it. Every bike that I’ve researched when you get it it’s all set up perfect. Everything works good. I just cannot understand this.
So if your friend wrote 10 mi on battery power alone, no pedaling at all just throttle, then it would defy all logic that his battery would be at 100%. That would mean he hadn't even used 1% of the battery capacity which would mean his bike would have a battery only range of at least 1,000 mi. So clearly his isn't reading accurately either. Do you know what display he has? A buddy of mine just got a Rad bike so I'm going to see how his is but I'm not sure if he has it together yet. I'm just a humble water and sewer operator but what I noticed is when charging my 700 series the first time I had the battery off the bike and it was plugged in for approximately 4 hours and the light went green, the next day when I wrote it for the first time I went almost 20 mi before it dropped from 100% charge reading. The next time I charged it the light was still red but I saw it was reading 100%, I unplugged it and took it for a ride and within 5 miles the percentage had dropped. I have a sense energy monitor, so Sunday I plugged the bike in and watched it, when it hit 100% on the display the light was still red on the charger and according to my sense app it was still accepting over 100 watts. As the bike charged more the wattage actually went up a little it started out at 103 watts and eventually went up to 113. I'm not an electrical engineer but it makes me wonder if the charger was working harder to top off a mostly charged battery. I noticed isn't good for the battery so I don't plan on charging it to 100% regularly.
 
I missed a few days of checking this and I didn’t see your percentages. Most people don’t have them consistent. I don’t understand why? I have mine 0 to 5 like this,

20%, 40%, 60%, 80%, 96%.

this way each pedal assist is consistently all the way up. Am I missing something? Why almost everybody has non-consistent numbers?

20% to 40% is not a 20% increase in power, it's actually double the power, a 100% increase. So keeping that in mind:

20% to 40% is a 100% increase in power
80% to 96% is a 20% increase in power

So, in that respect, that's nowhere near consistent as far as uniform power increases as a percentage of one assist level's power to the next. That's doubling the power from 1 to 2, and only increasing it by 1/5th power from 4 to 5.

But having said that, I would set them to what feels right to me for real world riding when going through assist levels and not get hung up on what the percentages are.
 
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The radbike is accurate. A 48v battery actually charges higher than that. I think 52 V. So for him to go down from 52 to 48 it was still 100%.

I’m getting about 15 miles per 100% charge. I set everything to default and try that out and I got about 12 miles with a 100% charge.

With the Settings Kevin recommends, even the 11 V (default is 18V) was Way faster than default.

Assist level 3 comfortably peddling is 27 mph. With default, peddling hard you go about 18 miles an hour.

default on mine you came to even little Hills and the thing was a dog. Almost seems like a regular bike.

My charger is green, you plug it into the bike it goes red, and never changes back to green. I think it’s a bad battery but r1u is sending me a new charger.
 
The radbike is accurate. A 48v battery actually charges higher than that. I think 52 V. So for him to go down from 52 to 48 it was still 100%.

I’m getting about 15 miles per 100% charge. I set everything to default and try that out and I got about 12 miles with a 100% charge.

With the Settings Kevin recommends, even the 11 V (default is 18V) was Way faster than default.

Assist level 3 comfortably peddling is 27 mph. With default, peddling hard you go about 18 miles an hour.

default on mine you came to even little Hills and the thing was a dog. Almost seems like a regular bike.

My charger is green, you plug it into the bike it goes red, and never changes back to green. I think it’s a bad battery but r1u is sending me a new charger.
Could be a bad battery. What's the longest you've left it plugged in? So he can ride 10 miles on pure battery power and still be at 100%?
 
It's out of stock at the moment so it must be a good seller. Has a built in cooling fan, aluminum case and heavy gauge wiring.


Luna chargers are crap, they will have the capacitors burned up within a few months. They will give you a 15$ discount to buy a new one 😉.
Sell and get a Grin Satiator.
 
I charged my battery to 90% before I went to bed last night. I was going to charge it up to 100 and go for a ride this morning.

I woke up and my battery was at 80%. I grabbed my helmet and my mask and went back over to the bike and it was 78% and dropping.

I rode to the next stoplight and a couple of blocks to get a coffee and I was at 68%.

I wrote support and told them again that my battery was shot. They said the reason why it went down so fast must be the air pressure in my tires.

I still have a couple weeks left being able to send the bike back.

I think that since my charger was defectiveit fried out the battery. I think that even though I’m going to lose money, maybe I should just cut my losses and package it up and send it back.

I've had other problems and I found out that ride1up has really, really good tier 1 support. If your brake magnets are defective and it keeps your bike from running, they’ll send you new ones in a week. But the next level of problems they can’t even understand what you’re talking about. So they are super good tier 1, but if you get on any deeper things it’s like they don’t even understand what you’re talking about.
 
I charged my battery to 90% before I went to bed last night. I was going to charge it up to 100 and go for a ride this morning.

I woke up and my battery was at 80%. I grabbed my helmet and my mask and went back over to the bike and it was 78% and dropping.

I rode to the next stoplight and a couple of blocks to get a coffee and I was at 68%.

I wrote support and told them again that my battery was shot. They said the reason why it went down so fast must be the air pressure in my tires.

I still have a couple weeks left being able to send the bike back.

I think that since my charger was defectiveit fried out the battery. I think that even though I’m going to lose money, maybe I should just cut my losses and package it up and send it back.

I've had other problems and I found out that ride1up has really, really good tier 1 support. If your brake magnets are defective and it keeps your bike from running, they’ll send you new ones in a week. But the next level of problems they can’t even understand what you’re talking about. So they are super good tier 1, but if you get on any deeper things it’s like they don’t even understand what you’re talking about.
This makes me sad. Sorry to hear about all the things you have done and are going thru.
 
I charged my battery to 90% before I went to bed last night. I was going to charge it up to 100 and go for a ride this morning.

I woke up and my battery was at 80%. I grabbed my helmet and my mask and went back over to the bike and it was 78% and dropping.

I rode to the next stoplight and a couple of blocks to get a coffee and I was at 68%.

I wrote support and told them again that my battery was shot. They said the reason why it went down so fast must be the air pressure in my tires.

I still have a couple weeks left being able to send the bike back.

I think that since my charger was defectiveit fried out the battery. I think that even though I’m going to lose money, maybe I should just cut my losses and package it up and send it back.

I've had other problems and I found out that ride1up has really, really good tier 1 support. If your brake magnets are defective and it keeps your bike from running, they’ll send you new ones in a week. But the next level of problems they can’t even understand what you’re talking about. So they are super good tier 1, but if you get on any deeper things it’s like they don’t even understand what you’re talking about.

This sounds like your battery cells are badly out of balance. Suggest you forget about charging to 90% for a while. Seriously. Instead, charge FULLY, until the battery charger shuts off. Go for one of your normal rides, then charge it again, FULLY, until the charger shuts off. Do that for several cycles. My bet is you're going to see a battery that's MUCH happier, behaving as you would expect.

When you tell us that you charged to 90%, and come back later and find it at 80%, what you are seeing is very likely the result of fully charged cells charging those elsewhere within the pack with less charge. This is reinforced by the fact you rode a couple of blocks only to find the charge at 68%. Noteworthy maybe, is that my personal bike will go about 17 miles before the first of 5 bars goes out. This battery is normally charged when it gets down to about 46 volts, and that generally will happen at about 35 miles. Low voltage cut off is set for 42 volts.

You need to know that the charger is balancing the pack during that last 10% of the charge cycle - to prevent exactly what you have going on, which is reduced capacity and unevenly charged cells.....

When (if?) you get this situation resolved, then maybe re-consider this charging to 90% concept. Just keep in mind that balance charging is needed frequently - to prevent exactly what you have going on right now...... -Al
 
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