Must I buy a new car for my hitch/rack/bikes?

All the work I did to my Acura RDX was to improve its handling at limits to go with the engine mods of +40hp/+40tq I added to the 2.3L turbo 4 engine with a ECU reflash, larger intercooler, and intake. I just noticed an added benefit of less squat with the extra rear weight of Saris SuperClamp 4 Freedom rack+ two Radrovers and less body lean in corners with the suspension upgrades. I prefer using my smaller CUV to haul my bikes because the vehicle+rack can fit in my garage in the up position and I can leave it on for days/weeks (can't close my garage door with the empty bike rack on my 7 passenger SUV).

The factory limits still applies for any type of hitch you install from Class I, II, or III. My Acura RDX is limited to Class I hitch; but, I use an aftermarket Class II hidden 2" hitch. I went this route because I didn't want to have to add an adapter to the rack when I switch my bike rack between my Acura MDX's Class II hitch. I'm still limited to all the same restrictions of 1500lbs tow rating and tongue limit with my Class II hitch on my smaller Acura RDX.

I see a lot of sedans and small hatchbacks with Saris, Yakima, Thule, and 1up racks with the same or less tongue weight and little to no towing capabilities. We might be overthinking an issue that might not be a significant concern in everyday use. These issue might become clearer if you ask these answers from the folks from a Mazda3 forum?

Acura RDX Hidden Class II 2" hidden hitch that tucks under the bumper and doesn't stick out as far as the factory Class I hitch:
RDX hidden hitch.jpg

RDX hidden hitch II.jpg
 
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I think, or at least hope that the rack makers designed their carrying capacity accounting for the weight of the bikes and its distance away from the hitch, so that users don't have to do any more calculations. They also have to figure a class I hitch for 200 lbs.

Adding in additional fudge factors might be good for safety, but will surely result in us laymen believing most hitches are barely able to carry 100 lbs. If we stay within the manufacturer's weight ratings, then we should be fine.
 
Thanks again. I do tend to over analyze, but when it comes to the chance of my bikes and rack bouncing down the interstate and causing a pileup, or even just voiding the car warranty, I just need to be sure that I'm not at risk of that. I talked to Mazda today and they confirmed what you say, not what the Hitch House says. Mazda only sells a class 1 hitch with the CX-5 (they sell a class 2 with the CX-9), and towing (refers to hitch/rack combos also) more could harm the transmission and void the warranty. I'm not trying to be a jerk, but we see the cars towing racks/bikes with no problem and we think - OK, no problem, but we wouldn't see those that failed, right, unless we witness the accident? Thanks, Mark.
 
What I've learned from all of this, and after talking to a Yakima rep at REI, that the rack manufacturer cares only about the rack, the hitch manufacturers care only about the hitch, and likewise with the car. The Yakima guy said always go by what the manufacturer says - he's seen what can happen when people don't. Yes, Kuat says they test their racks under extreme conditions, but Curt won't back them up when they say no problem with the wieght.

The hitch seller will sell you a class 3 hitch knowing that the car that the weight the hitch is designed for will accommodate more weight than the car itself will (e.g., Mazda CX-5). At least on the Curt website they tell you to always check with the car manufacturer.

I think, or at least hope that the rack makers designed their carrying capacity accounting for the weight of the bikes and its distance away from the hitch, so that users don't have to do any more calculations. They also have to figure a class I hitch for 200 lbs.

Adding in additional fudge factors might be good for safety, but will surely result in us laymen believing most hitches are barely able to carry 100 lbs. If we stay within the manufacturer's weight ratings, then we should be fine.
 
I see you checked with body shops, but in our area, we have a shop that specializes in hitch receivers and trailers. They will install custom hitch receivers while reinforcing the vehicle's frame in order to put 2" receivers on cars that can normally mount only 1.25". I think they charged something like $400 or $500.
 
Gotta say this has turned into a fascinating thread. Planning on replacing my Honda Crosstour fairly soon and one of the big favorites that has emerged is the CX9, in part because of the availability of the two inch hitch. A lot more personality than the Honda Pilot as well!

On the Crosstour we're running a Class 1 hitch and a Yakima rack, but I always use a strap to the top of the hatchback to stop the bounce you see otherwise. Normally one Trek ebike with the battery removed. Been all over the place with this setup, but I still want the larger hitch on the next car if we start taking my wife's bike along as well.
 
Thanks, but my current car, the 2012 Mazda 3, is not allowed to tow/rack anything, according to Mazda (I called them today - the manufacturer, not the dealer). Even if I could hitch something up to it, my issue would not be the 1.25" receiver, it would be the fact that even the hitch folks don't want you putting a class 2 hitch (that is, the weight a class 2 can handle) on this car.

I see you checked with body shops, but in our area, we have a shop that specializes in hitch receivers and trailers. They will install custom hitch receivers while reinforcing the vehicle's frame in order to put 2" receivers on cars that can normally mount only 1.25". I think they charged something like $400 or $500.
 
Thanks Dave, per my conversation with Mazda (the manufacturer, not the dealer, who was actually familiar with this subject), the CX-9 will accept a class 2 hitch which will accommodate the greater weight you want to prepare for. You might want to check the tables in the manual to see how much weight the car can take, and get a class 3 hitch just to make sure the hitch is not the limiting factor. Good point about the strap, thanks, Mark.

Gotta say this has turned into a fascinating thread. Planning on replacing my Honda Crosstour fairly soon and one of the big favorites that has emerged is the CX9, in part because of the availability of the two inch hitch. A lot more personality than the Honda Pilot as well!

On the Crosstour we're running a Class 1 hitch and a Yakima rack, but I always use a strap to the top of the hatchback to stop the bounce you see otherwise. Normally one Trek ebike with the battery removed. Been all over the place with this setup, but I still want the larger hitch on the next car if we start taking my wife's bike along as well.
 
Have you been to the etrailer web site? They are very knowledgeable about hitches, racks, etc. They sell them all and have great videos of bikes racks loaded on their test course.
 
Fwiw....
I've already mentioned this to Mark23, but for others who might benefit I will repeat. If your vehicle has fold-down rear seats, there is a strong possibility that you can carry your ebike inside the cab. Yes, until you get familiar with removing the front wheel it might be a hassle, but any port in the storm if it solves a problem. My car is a little Chrysler PT hatchback and two Trek LIFT ebikes fit inside laying down. With a cargo mat between them there is no chafing. No inve$tment in widgets, no worries about a hitch failing or the bikes falling onto the roadway, and no worries about theft if we stop someplace for lunch.
 
Thanks, yes, spent a lot of time on that site and I also called them. They were the ones who told me that regardless of what this hitch is capable of, that you are limited by what the auto manufacturer prescribes as their tongue weight maximum. That is why they post that caveat for all of the hitches they sell.

Have you been to the etrailer web site? They are very knowledgeable about hitches, racks, etc. They sell them all and have great videos of bikes racks loaded on their test course.
 
Have you tried using any straps to make the rack bouncing any less likely? Seems like the straps would need to tied to the bottom of the car somewhere. Thanks, Mark.

Same concerns here. I used to have a Grand Cherokee and later a Honda Pilot. I put on sturdy 2" hitches. I did the Jeep myself. Both had also substantial chassis points for attachment. Meanwhile, I think the hitch on my VW wagon uses the floor pan bolt for one point. Doesn't the actual tongue. if used for towing, sticks out about 6" past the hitch? So my actual weight is only a foot past that.

To mitigate my fears, I have straps from the roof rack around each bike wheel. If the rack snaps off, the straps will hold the bikes while sparks fly and rubber grinds off.

This is my swagman carrying maybe 90 pounds of bike and 2o pounds of locks/chains. The hitch was hitting the pavement when we pulled into gas stations. We went 2500 miles. I took off the seats for the trip home.
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View attachment 18052
 
I'm using an Ecohitch Invisi hitch on my 2017 WRX, just for a bike rack, as my car isn't rated to tow anything (my 2015 Forester XT turbo has a factory hitch and is rated for 1500 pounds). But the Ecohitch itself is rated to pull 3500lbs/350lbs tongue weight, as long as the car can handle that. https://torkliftcentral.com/2015-2017-subaru-wrx-wrx-sti-ecohitch-invisi

I won't tow anything for fear of burning up my clutch when the car isn't tow rated, but I don't worry about carrying 90lbs worth of Trek eBikes with my Yakima Holdup tray 2-bike rack. I've taken both Trek ebikes on several long trips, with no problems, although I would like to install some adjustable coilovers and stiffer springs at some point.

My concern last weekend was that when my car is loaded with 2 full ice chests, a tent and sleeping bags, several backpacks and oxygen tanks, cpap and portable oxygen concentrator, 5 gallons of water, large subwoofer, and 2 people then the suspension definitely squats a bit. The handling and braking feels normal though - this photo is from this past holiday weekend.

IMG_9707.jpg
 
Thanks Larry, glad you're not having problems, and beautiful location! I've gotten a number of "no problems" posts like this. My concern is that it works fine till it doesn't, and the risk of hurting someone on the interstate (re, class 1 hitch not holding) is much greater than damaging my transmission (Mazda 3 - no hitching per Mazda). Mark
 
We previously bought a kuat nv 2.0 tray rack to transport our old bikes - it has a capacity of 60 lbs per bike - no problem there with our new treks. The rack weighs 55 lbs.


We have a 2012 Mazda 3 which can only support a class 1 hitch and we got the 1.25 inch hitch. Class 1 hitches are weight carrying (WC) hitches rated up to 2000 lbs. gross trailer weight (GTW) with a maximum trailer tongue weight (TW, downward force) of 200 lbs. I thought the 200 lbs would suffice for our 2 new E-bikes (Trek Lift +) and the rack. The bikes each way 45 lbs, and if we remove the 6 lb batteries, we get down to 39 lbs each for a total of 78 lbs.

But the hitch folks (where we bought the hitch and Curt, the manufacturer) tell us that for each foot out from the hitch knob, you lose 25% of tongue weight capacity. So for transporting 2 bikes (15" out for the first bike, 27" out for the second), that drops us down to about 100 pounds which does not cover the weight of the rack and the 2 bikes (133 lbs).

While the Kuat folks insist this is not a problem because they've tested the racks with 2 bikes on class 1 hitches all kinds of ways, the hitch folks won't go out on that limb. And I'm really afraid of - not so much damage of damage to our car - but of damage to cars/drivers following us on the interstate greeted by unsolicited bikes, rack, and hitch.

I'm willing to get a new hitch and/or a new rack, but am desperately trying to avoid buying a new car that will support a class 2 or 3 hitch with the additional tongue-weight capacity. So the challenge is to get both bikes and rack under 100 lbs extending outwards not more than 2 feet, or under 150 lbs extending outwards not more than 1 foot, or some interpolation of a combination of a distance and weight in between 1 foot and 2 feet.

We much prefer a hitch-type tray rack but are willing to consider other options that don't involve towing which Mazda does not support for our vehicle.

Any guidance would be greatly appreciated!

Update 1:
Now I've got an additional problem. I was resigned to getting a new car and thought I would try a crossover SUV like the Honda CRV or the Mazda CX-5. Since those cars will accept a class 3 hitch with tongue weight limits of 675 lbs, that would easily give me the 300 lbs (at 2 feet from the tongue) that I need. The problem is, then the weak link would be the car, not the rack or the hitch, because those 2 cars have tongue weight limits of 150 lbs and 200 lbs respectively - no better than the class 1 hitch I'm using on my current 2012 Mazda 3. Ugh!! I don't even want a new car, much less one of those even bigger cars like a Honda Pilot.

Update 2:
I did hear back from the Hitch House who sold me the class 1 hitch for the Mazda 3. Regarding the fix of buying a Mazda CX-5 and my concern about Mazda saying the tongue weight limit is 200 lbs. he said that the manufacturer bases these limits on the factory or dealer installed hitch, and that you can increase that limit with an after-market hitch designed for he specific vehicle. So I could get a class 3 hitch for the Mazda CX-5 and it should work for me with its 600 lb tongue-weight limit. At two feet out (for the rack with 2 bikes), I'd still have 300 lbs which would be enough tolerance for the 133 lbs I'm dealing with.
This is an old thread, I know. I'm in a similar situation - 2007 WRX with 1 1/4" hitch, 2000lb towing/200lb TW, and want to use the Kuat NV 2.0 for (2) ebikes, each at 50lbs. Mark, how did you resolve this? I've researched Curt's notion of losing 25% tongue weight per foot, but can't find anything to support that. Is it really true?
 
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