Mountain climbing capabilities

BarrySmith

New Member
I am looking into getting a e-bike to be able to retrieve my vehicle from paragliding launch sites. This will involve riding up fairly steep terrain for a decent amount of time, usually off-pavement. Temperature is around 38C / 100F during the summer around here.

I have done some limited research into this, but most information I find online discusses e-bikes in the context of smaller rolling hills and short power bursts, I am interested whether they can shed heat well enough to be able to get up large steep hills.

The stats on rides up to my nearby sites, in order of increasing relief, are:
1) 5.6km w/ 430m vert on sand, the hard part: 2.1km @ 12% gradient
2) 4km w/ 530m vert on dirt and rocks, hard part: 500m @ 20% gradient
3) 7km w/ 700m vert on loose rocks, hard part: 2.7km @ 14% gradient
4) 8km w/ 1150m vert on loose rocks, hard part: 4.7km @ 15% gradient
5) 29km w/ 1.7km vert on pavement, hard part 13km @ 9% gradient

For those using the imperial system:
1) 3.5 miles w/ 1500' gain, 1.3mi @ 12% | Sand
2) 2.5 miles w/ 1700' gain, 0.3mi @ 20% | Rocks & dirt
3) 4.7 miles w/ 2300' gain, 1.7 mi @ 14% | Loose rocks
4) 5 miles w/ 3800' gain, 3 mi @ 15% | Loose rocks
5) 18 miles w/ 6000' gain, 8 mi @ 9% | Pavement

Fortunately, that order is also the approximately order of how much I like each launch, so I don't necessarily need a bike that will be able to do half a mile of vertical at 15% gradient, or 18 miles on pavement.

Is anyone able to guess whether an e-bike would be a good fit for this problem? About how much money I would need to spend, or what sort of bike I would need to be able to do this?
 
Your descriptions of the roads sure sounds like what an e-mountain bike can do ... one with cargo carrying (or attach a wagon) capabilities. Have you ever seen anyone using an eBike at any of these paragliding sites? Out of curiosity, do you land near where you start; if not how do you get back to your car/bike?
 
There are several ebikes that users have posted good success with equally steep grades. My Vado 5 with its 90Nm mid-drive, 11-50t cassette, and mild MTB tires can pull long 20% grades on gravel. Brand name eMTBs are designed for this. The issue to me is the sand. My Vado's 1.75" tires aren't wide enough for this. eMTBs have wider tires that may be enough. If this is loose sand you'll probably need to look at a fat tire ebike. Don't have a recommendation for a fat tire ebike though others have posted about them. I suggest the Search function.
 
I agree with Tim on selecting a brand name EMTB with a strong hub or mid-drive motor and wide tires for all terrain types.
For packed sand you would be fine with 2-3" mountain bike tires, otherwise you will need a fat tire bike with 4"+tires.
Keep in mind that fat tires will not be great for efficiency on the pavement... everything is a trade-off with tires. ;)

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Table of Contents:

Things to Consider:
  • Intended Use. Do you only want the rugged looks, comfort, and flexibility of an in-town fat ebike? In that case, a less powerful, heavier, cheaper model will do. However, if you plan to climb mountains, cross sandy beaches, or carry heavy loads, then you’ll want a more powerful motor, larger battery, and upgraded components. Look and pay for the things you will actually use.
  • Throttle. Depending on your location, throttles may or may not be allowed. Most North American countries allow them, while European countries do not. If you plan to ride on dry sand, packed snow, or soft damp forest trails, a throttle can help you start and balance more easily.
  • Motor. Think about the total combined weight of your body, bike, and cargo. Next, think about the terrain. Will you be riding off-road, navigating through soft terrain, or climbing steep mountains? Get the right type of motor with enough power to meet your needs. Motors can range from 250 to 750 watts depending on the laws where you live, I consider a 500 watt nominal motor to be very powerful. Mid-drive motors tend to be more efficient and make servicing the drivetrain and fixing flat tires easier. However, mid-drives usually cost more than hub motors, and rarely offer throttle operation.
  • Battery. Match the needs of your motor and type of riding with battery power and capacity. 36 volt battery systems are typical, but 48 volt batteries are efficient and improve power output. When sizing batteries, think about total weight, terrain, and distance. You want enough capacity to get there and back, even if it means buying a second battery. Fat ebikes are heavier, and the tires produce more drag, so it’s no fun if you run out of power and have to pedal back unassisted. Consider bringing a charger along, just in case you hit a detour or want to ride farther.
  • Brakes, Frame, and Suspension. Hydraulic brakes are easier to use but mechanical brakes cost less and are easier to adjust. Large disc brake rotors improve stopping power and maximize cooling. This is important as fat ebike wheels, tires, and frames are all bigger and weigh more. Planning to climb mountains, go off-road, or carry cargo? Then look for a stronger frame, nicer components, and perhaps a suspension fork and seatpost or full suspension.
  • Wheels and Tires. Larger wheels ride smoother, smaller are more maneuverable. Most full-sized electric fat bikes use 26″ wheels because the extra-wide tires add additional height to the wheel. You may see 20″ wheels with fat tires on folding fat ebikes. Select a tire size and tread that suits your terrain. Use knobby tires for climbing, smaller knobs or checkerboard for cross country, and lower tire pressure when riding on sand. For city use, consider smoother tires which are quieter and have less resistance.
 
I'd certainly concur with the above advice. And just reinforce that if you are say a 175+lb adult man with a ~50lb wing and kit to haul back up those grades, that's a significant load by ebike standards. You won't likely be happy long-term with the mid-level bikes and components. You probably need to be in the 5K+ range (and brand name as mentioned) to truly get a quality workhorse that will do what you need day after day, and includes a good warranty.

Most of the 2-3K bikes like the Rads and all the clones, are really meant to be rail to trail style or light xc bikes in stock form. I know my Bafang Ultra 1000w powered bike would make those climbs, but I would not expect reliable durability from it over time.
 
Unless you desperately want to do the cycling then either hailing an Uber, or buying a small foldable motor scooter seem like far cheaper options - assuming your launch sites are reasonably accessible to road vehicles
 
"I am looking into getting a e-bike to be able to retrieve my vehicle from paragliding launch sites. This will involve riding up fairly steep terrain for a decent amount of time, usually off-pavement. Temperature is around 38C / 100F during the summer around here."

One of my ebikes is a Specialized Turbo Comp (90Mn/ 700wh battery/mid drive). It can easily handle your climb, distant and trail condition requirements. Its 29" wheels will be better for climbing than 27.5's or 26's. Quality workhorse and great warranty. A true quality FS EMTB with high end components will run you over $6K. A Hard tail will cost a little less and may be better for climbing than an FS.
 
"I am looking into getting a e-bike to be able to retrieve my vehicle from paragliding launch sites. This will involve riding up fairly steep terrain for a decent amount of time, usually off-pavement. Temperature is around 38C / 100F during the summer around here."

One of my ebikes is a Specialized Turbo Comp (90Mn/ 700wh battery/mid drive). It can easily handle your climb, distant and trail condition requirements. Its 29" wheels will be better for climbing than 27.5's or 26's. Quality workhorse and great warranty. A true quality FS EMTB with high end components will run you over $6K. A Hard tail will cost a little less and may be better for climbing than an FS.
It was my impression that 29” are better for obstacles but 27.5” are better for torque. A lot of the competitive racers use 29” on front and 27.5 on the rear.
 
Do NOT buy a geared hub motor bike. Those grades would overheat it, also the heavy load is additional stress.
1000W DD hub motor bikes might be able to do it but you'd need a 25 AH battery probably. not the best choice, lugging wastes watthours on a DD motor.
You're into $$$$ territory, probably bosch performance line. Shimano steps & Yamaha would be underpowered.
Enjoy changing your chain. You're going to do that frequently with a mid drive & heavy loads.
 
It was my impression that 29” are better for obstacles but 27.5” are better for torque. A lot of the competitive racers use 29” on front and 27.5 on the rear.
Here is an article that discusses climbing with both sizes. Personally I climb better with the 29" over my 27.5" tires. You'll offset the torque factor with the ebike mid drive motor. I ride some extreme trails both downhill and uphill in Colorado half the year. hands down on the 29's for me (I have both).

27-5-vs-29er

What is a 29er Best for?

29ers are a solid and comfortable choice for most riders, but they definitely accel in some areas.
For one, they are exceptional climbers.
So, if you plan on riding a lot of XC style trails with climbs and long stretches, the 29er will be your best option.
Actually, some would say the 29er is the best bike for XC.
 
Thanks for all the advice.

I ended up getting a BBSHD conversion with a 48V 14.5Ah battery and installing it on an old steel frame mountain bike. Gearing is 46T front / 28T back (at the lowest gear). So far I have tested it going up to the first two launches I mentioned and it has been able to do it. I find the most difficult part the 'technical' steep sections - probably because I haven't done much mountain biking to really know how to keep it all in control, but also definitely the motor doesn't have the torque necessary to make it up those climbs without pedal help. It seems that it has plenty of battery left after getting to the top, so I am hopeful that it will also be able to get me to the third launch (can't test until the snow melts in the spring), which will cover everywhere I fly regularly (I won't be too fazed if it can't do the other launches because they are much more occasional and usually enough of a headache to warrant hiring a driver).

Although the road to the first launch is in some parts a little steep, and in some parts a little sandy, fortunately the steep parts aren't sandy, and the sand isn't terrible, so the bike doesn't struggle too much there.

With time I will find out how reliable this setup is.

Right now my biggest problem is I want to stay in as low a gear as possible (to minimize stress on the motor), but that forces me to sit down to pedal and the bike has no rear or seat post suspension, so riding can be quite painful.

PS no chance of an Uber around here - even if there were any drivers in my town, they won't be driving up those sorts of roads. Also the bike at least doesn't have to carry the weight of the flying gear because I'm only using it to retrieve my car.
 
This might help with your seated pedaling problem. I love them on my hardtails!

Their out of stock, but if your old MTB came with a 27.2 post, you're in luck soonly. Otherwise it says Spring

 
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