Monte Capro Ultra

My fix for creak was to re grease all pivot points on the rear triangle and rear shock mounts with white lithium grease. My Monte Capro started creaking at about 2000 miles but I ride off road most times.
So that could be a contributing factor for the creaking. I clean and inspect bearings re lubed every 1000 miles my thinking is the framework is not broken in yet.
And get yourself a tourqe wrench set it back to oem specs.
Thanks. Mine began creaking around 100 miles. I have a torque wrench and set bolt torque already. Interestingly, it only creaks on smooth straightaways with no rough roads.
 
Just an idea for you guys.
It might be the seat actually depending on which type you have.
An old bike I had a few years back would creak a bit when pedaling and it stumped me for a while until I discovered it was the seat.
Might get lucky.
 
Just an idea for you guys.
It might be the seat actually depending on which type you have.
An old bike I had a few years back would creak a bit when pedaling and it stumped me for a while until I discovered it was the seat.
Might get lucky.
Thanks! I already tried replacing the seat and seatpost. I think we are zeroing in in the head bearings. Also, the local bike shop says that there should never be more than three 10mm spacers below the stem. It apparently places too much stress on the head, possibly leading to creaking or damage. Mine came with six. I will make some changes whenever the weather clears up.
 
Thanks! I already tried replacing the seat and seatpost. I think we are zeroing in in the head bearings. Also, the local bike shop says that there should never be more than three 10mm spacers below the stem. It apparently places too much stress on the head, possibly leading to creaking or damage. Mine came with six. I will make some changes whenever the weather clears up.
I finally fixed the creak. I placed a 0.2mm micro spacer under the top bearing dust cover. No more creaking.
 
Taking a break.
I have to contact Biktrix for those 3 pan head bolts to left on one those pictures. Black anodized paint has come off.
4k miles. I need new ones.
I don't see any issue with those bolts/hardware. Obviously threads mating up will remove coatings from screws/nuts/..., and the one on the left I believe tuns through the shock bushing. Not seeing any cause for concern here IMO. BTW, anodizing isn't paint (it's an electrical process), although I suspect the hardware is simply painted and not anodized.
 
How can I get a replacement nut for suspension pivot bolt #4?

The bolt didn't come out, it came loose and I wasn't able to tighten it - it just spins. That's when I noticed that the nut on the back side is missing.
I visually check all the pivot bolts before each ride and if any one appears loose, I check the torque on all of them.
 

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Yes, those nuts come loose over time if you just torque them.

I applied Loctite SF 7471 primer (primer is necessary because of those bolts and nuts are anodized alimunim and will not activate the thread locker as is) and then applied Loctite 271 Red thread locker on those bolts on the swingarm near the rear axle.

On the other bolts of the swingarm I applied the same primer and Loctite 243 Blue thread locker.

I also marked the bolts and nuts faces with silver Sharpie so I can visually check them over time.
 
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Yes, those nuts come loose over time if you just torque them.

I applied Loctite SF 7471 primer (primer is necessary because of those bolts and nuts are anodized alimunim and will not activate the thread locker as is) and then applied Loctite 271 Red thread locker on those bolts on the swingarm near the rear axle.

On the other bolts of the swingarm I applied the same primer and Loctite 243 Blue thread locker.

I also marked the bolts and nuts faces with silver Sharpie so I can visually check them over time.
Thanks. I am going to use locktite purple or blue, depending on the torque value.

I'm going to start marking these also. I used to do the same on critical parts on my race cars (a stripe of hot pink nail polish).
 
Have you contacted Biktrix support?
I used blue color thread locks in a small toothpaste looking tube. The fasteners are still on. I put them on mid January this year. Matter of fact I have to service them again 6 months is my suspension maintenance interval.
I think I may be wrong about this but if you keep re tourqeing the bolt you are probably breaking the locking ability of what ever brand thread lock you are using.
Yes but I was hoping for a quick reply, thus the post here. If I can get a nut so I can ride this weekend, that would be nice.

Edit: I just checked my email and they responded back three hours ago but I missed it. Biktrix is sending me a replacement nut/bolt.

Earlier this year when I noticed that the front lower bolt came loose, just like your's did, I started to visually check them. After I put on the locktite, it hasn't loosened up since. This one never appeared loose but came loose on a ride earlier this week. Without knowing, the bolt fell off. I don't know if the nut is supposed to be anchored in the carbon fiber or not. I checked the other side and it was only hand tight.
 
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I received the nut/bolt/washers/o-rings today from Biktrix. Loctite blue is pre-applied on the bolt.
 
Yes, but that blue threadlocker on those bolts sucks. The bolts have pretty loose fit and that threadlocker does not work at all. I would strip that blue stuff from the bolts and apply Loktite activator and Loktite threadlocker.
 
Yes, but that blue threadlocker on those bolts sucks. The bolts have pretty loose fit and that threadlocker does not work at all. I would strip that blue stuff from the bolts and apply Loktite activator and Loktite threadlocker.

I looked at the technical specs of both and there was one item that didn't make sense. It inferred that the primer/activator sped up the curing process for the thread locker, but it didn't clearly state whether or not curing would occur if the primer/activator wasn't used on inactive metal. So, I called Henkel. Their consumer division wasn't sure so they transferred me to their industrial division who understood the primer better.
The tech I spoke with explained it well. The anodized aluminum nut and bolt will not oxidize, and without oxidation, the thread locker won't work. Any primer that has active iron will oxidize on the surface that it is applied to. Furthermore, Loctite 242 will not cure without a primer being placed on one of the parts.
So, he suggested putting a primer on the nut and the Loctite on the bolt. After torquing to spec, let it cure (1 hr).
 
Too technical for me. I use brake kleen in a green canister to clean up hardware before loktite it in place. I have not lost a nut, I've ridden almost 5K miles mostly off road conditions. Different stroke for different folks...
Same amount of steps and more effort to be different for the sake of being different.

I will also add a dab of heavy duty waterproof grease at the pivot points. But as you said, too technical for you and different strokes for different folks.
 
It is not anodizing, it is coating. And those fasteners are likely stainless steel. This is high stress area where the shock is mounted and such tiny fasteners would brake and they were aluminum.
 
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It is not anodizing, it is coating. And those fasteners are likely stainless steel. This is high stress area where the shock is mounted and such tiny fasteners would brake and they were aluminum.
They would brake? LOL.

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Trying to find a way to utilize this three days weekend.
My biking legs are tired from hiking Diamond Head Crater.
I got some replacement parts for my Monte Capro. Set of titanium chain ring fasteners because one has come off, replacing them with new. New chain as well and new brake pads was installed yesterday. Tune derailleur. It should be good to go for 6 months of riding and handle whatever severe use I can give it.
Because I'm performing my own maintenance work. I'm starting to feel that this bike is relatively easy to maintain. Unlike my Bulls which is still at the dealer service for unknown problem with speedometer not displaying speed.
 
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