Monte Capro Ultra

Frame is E26.
I will have it disabled if it happens again. I think the push button latching switch is not water resistant the problem occurred after I hosed it down generously.
At 500 miles I took apart rear triangle to lube pivot points and discovered chafing on the matrix of shifter cable I wrapped carbon fiber tape around it I will check on it when it's due for lube.
Other than that. Monte Capro is a perfect Enduro ebike.
Pictures of it all dusty after 3 miles of red dust. I rode to a nearby farm.
I love the brown tires.. may be we should make that standard.
This is bottom picture of my Canbus engine . It has two blind holes already.
It gave me the idea to drill through it and use them as lube points so I don't have to split the gear box open for greasing.
@roshan what are these holes for?
Those holes are for mounting a skid plate. I wouldn’t drill through. Also, this motor isn’t designed to run in a grease bath.
AL Sensitivity is just the sensitivity of the ambient light sensor which is built into the display and turns on/off headlights (if connected) when the sensor detect certain amounts of light (or lack of light).
Really! thanks for posting I thought it meant assist level. I guess I'm still ignorant about ebikes. 😆 🤣
Yeah lol, some of the display abbreviations are NOT intuitive. I think I googled the display's user manual first time I came across that 'AL Sensitivity' one as well. :D
What is the maximum speed limit you can set on that motor and how easy it reaches that speed limit?
Monthly inspection mostly pulling out thorns, lube chain, sealant refresh and some touch up paint, tourqe check with protool.
I have a silly question, Any of you all use this tool? Does it need recalibration after so many uses? I Lost the manual.
It's generally not worth the $$ for re-calibration unless you can find someone local that does it for $20 or so.
All torque wrenches have some inherent inaccuracy in them from the factory 'calibration' and usually range from like 4-6% or so.
The ISO standard claims 'should' calibrate every 5000 cycles or 12 months, but this is also for higher precision type commercial work.
You could always spend $600 to buy a calibration standard (cheaper ones may be available):—1-2-and-3/8"-(25-250-ft-lb)/QCDTC3250

Basically, for bikes, I wouldn't worry about it - 5000 cycles/uses is a pretty high amount, ignoring the 12 month period. You should always store them set to lowest torque value, and if you happen to have another torque wrench, you can always use them to check each other, although if they're off by more than a few %, you're then stuck sorting 'which one is right, if either of them are?' etc.
Some quick reading for you if interested:
Hey all! I had an issue with the SRAM NX derailleur a few months back that is causing me to look into replacing the entire drivetrain with some more substantial components. I should say that I'm pretty much a mechanical novice, so I am partnering with a LBS to do this work. I'm trying to understand exactly what I need, and if there are any gotchas as far as taking something like SRAM EX1 groupset components and just swapping everything out like for like...

I did see that perhaps the EX1 was designed for Bosch/Yamaha motors and the chain rings on offer in the EX1 set may not be a fit for the Bafang motor? Any thoughts there?

FWIW, this is the 4.8" fat version of the MCU, and I did do the Wren Star Ratchet Rear Hub (190mm/197mm) 36H upgrade already, not sure if it's relevant..

I already had the bike leave me stranded once with the original derailleur issue, and want to make sure I've got a drivetrain setup that can handle the motor.. I don't mind spending some money to get there, just want it to work, and am a bit in over my head and looking for some guidance to make sure I get the right parts.
  • E-E is 210mm
  • Will need to check the max seatpost depth - thanks for bringing this question up
  • Are you talking about Wren forks? We only stock the fat version of this and hence don't list it on the website. If you email us at [email protected] we can help you spec the bike with it
  • Yes, the Canbus protocol on these motors don't have DIY interface at this time but this is something in development and should be available in the near future
  • 750W nominal (as per the display) but the motor is set to 30A which is really 1000W with peaks of 1500W
  • You are correct, the rear hub is 148mm - apologies for the error
  • 150/197 hubs blowing up - this is not essentially fat bike specific. If you follow other bike forums like YT, you will see that even boost hubs break when too much torque is applied at just the right (wrong) time.
  • Yes, the effective top tube length is shorter
  • The first batch is all 19" frames
Can I get a 100 percent confirmation on shock length as well as mounting type. Suntour has a deal on that is too good to passup.
What happened? By the way it might be not easy to just install a new controller. It might require calibration for the torque sensor or something to pair it with the new controller. You might want to research this process.

I believe there is no need to re-grease this motor for life. At least that's what Yamaha claims for their motors. And I never heard Bafang claims their motors require such maintenance.
Canbus controllers are removed and replaced component.
Biktrix will send me one with the controller in an aluminium case like that screenshot I included. Maybe it will come with gasket too.
What happened? The capacitor or whatever the fucking thing is got pinched when bolted the cover on.
Just replace the capacitor. Order one on Digikey or Mouser
I was wrong about Canbus controller. It needs to be calibrated with Bafang Besst tool. I reached out to Biktrix if they can send me one that is already calibrated for my Monte Capro.
It's not a remove and replace item according to California E bikes and Greenbikekit.
It's looking like my Monte Capro will be down for a month.
The other route I am considering is a plug and play Factory Tune Bafang M620 60kmph motor from Biktrix.
Barebone Motor.
Hence my search for OEM Biktrix ebike parts.
Bummer Rome. Bike down, no fun.
I was feeling ambitious today and decided to disassemble the drive unit on my Monte Capro it's not at 3000 miles yet on the odometer but all tools and parts arrived early. I got the Mobil red grease too.
Pineapple Mango Jam. That looks interesting.
My beloved Biktrix Monte Capro.
I got Tej from support team waiting for reply if they can send me complete motor and controller.
@roshan just send me a complete m620 Canbus calibrated to 37mph. Put it on my tab. 😆 🤣 just wanted to say that.
Seriously speaking I will send you the broken motor calibrate it with new controller this way I have spare.
Let Tej know! We can make that happen.
I finally fix the creak on my bike. It was coming from the upper rear shock mount. It went away after I saturated it with lithium grease. At 1500 miles 🤣 not bad at all. Tourqe to specifications. I also removed Titanium gold color chain. My Bulls tech pointed out that it was only 118 links and the original is 122 links so I put the OEM chain and will look for Emtb specific Gold plated chain.
Except for the loud engine this bike is one fantastic ride.
My Monte Capro Ultra also creaks. It seems to be coming from the headset and below the seat. The creak seems to occur with the left pedal in the 10 o'clock position. There is no creek when using the throttle only. I disassembled and greased the headset components and reassembled. I replaced the cranks and pedals. I used the spray silicon lithium grease on all hinge points. I greased the seatpost. No luck. I also changed wheel sets and seats/posts. Any thoughts before I take it to a bike shop? I am towing with removing, cleaning and greasing all the suspension joint components. Any surprises there? Biktrix support has been very helpful, but finally recommend I take it to a local bike shop.