Mid drives vs Hub drives ???

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All of them.
Early Bafang models had quite a notable drag. Recent versions are better. Expensive mid drives like Yamaha are better yet, though technically they all have motor-induced resistance when un-powered. You can't trick physics laws.

Brose claims zero drag with the motor off due to it being belt-driven internally.

In my experience, the extra rotational mass of a hub motor is a bigger drag than any internal drag in a high quality mid-drive motor. When I send people out on mid-drive or hub motor test rides and encourage them to try the bike in all the modes of assist, including off, they invariably prefer the mid-drives with the motor off than they do the hub drives with the motor off. And that's without me suggesting in advance which I think they'll prefer. But that could in part be us selling higher-end mid-drives than we ever sold hub motors (as most people in our market get hub motor bikes if the budget is tight, or get OEM mid-drive if it's in the budget; high-end hub motor bikes like Stromers are barely a factor in my local market).

I'm very curious to try, of all things, the iGo Bafang mid-drive endurance road bike. It's only 27 lbs! However, it's class-1 and I've been spoiled by class-3, so that's my only hesitation. :)
 
But since someone appeared to insult me by saying "Why do you waste your time Tom?", I thought I'd give more context to my response. I'm no fanboy, and come to this forum to learn and to share what I've learned. I appreciate those responses that I got that were polite, like Tom's. Let's all be a little less quick to judge, shall we?

My comment to Tom had nothing to do with you or your posts, I usually ignore your long ranting posts and when/if I do read them I generally disagree with your comments. Tom is the most knowledgeable poster on this forum and a good friend, I was just teasing him due to his always threatening to leave the forum in frustration. Tom will never leave......
 
My comment to Tom had nothing to do with you or your posts, I usually ignore your long ranting posts and when/if I do read them I generally disagree with your comments. Tom is the most knowledgeable poster on this forum and a good friend, I was just teasing him due to his always threatening to leave the forum in frustration. Tom will never leave......

Ah, gotcha. Thank you for the clarification. And long posts? Guilty as charged, I do tend to be verbose. As for ranting? Well, I guess that's subjective so not for me to say how it appears to you. :)
 
Ah, gotcha. Thank you for the clarification. And long posts? Guilty as charged, I do tend to be verbose. As for ranting? Well, I guess that's subjective so not for me to say how it appears to you. :)

I'm sorry you interpreted my comment to Tom as an insult, that wasn't my intention. This has turned into a great thread thanks to you and Tom, of course anything beats the usual "what kind of suspension seat post should I buy" threads that run rampant on this forum. I hope this informative thread continues for a long time, thanks for your input.
 
A well built wheel doesn't always stay that way. How often is the wheel trued? How frequently are people hopping off curbs? A tonne of variables there. The torque emanating from the hub through the spokes doesn't so much create problems, it more exacerbates existing problems. If you have a quality wheel, watch for potholes, don't hob off curbs, and true it regularly then you may never get a broken spoke. But is that level of fastidiousness the norm? I think it probably isn't.

My bad. I should have mentioned the Rad loose spoke issue I was speaking of is from the time they are pulled out of the box. Whoever is building the wheels for the Rad Bikes is doing a terrible job. They're straight, but the spokes are way loose - to the point they can be noisey. I get the fact maintenance, or the lack of it, can be a factor long term, especially with the hub drives. I still don't agree broken spokes are much of an issue, or an issue that applies only to hub drives.

The other thing I'd like to mention is that when you are mentioning rear hubs, it seems like you are referring only to direct drive rear hubs, or at the very least lumping the DD with the gear driven together. This hardly seems fair. Comments regarding one don't necessarily apply to both. Those following should know that.

And last, after reading more from you, I see you're not just another fan boy. You're just predisposed toward mid drives. While that's a fair opinion for sure, I would have hoped a dealer would maintain a more objective presence. The fact that you would rather ride one, and that your techs would rather work on one, means nothing when noting the hub drives outnumber the mid's by quite a bit. This reminds me of the attitude I see when walking into a shop that sells high end bikes only, or maybe don't sell e-bikes at all. As one that doesn't appreciate high end bikes much, they aren't likely going to get my business, or even see me again any time real soon.

I am of the notion I can buy a pretty decent inexpensive bike, ride it for 2-3 years, throw it away, and go buy another like it (with all recent technology changes and a brand new battery), and STILL be money ahead when comparing what I've spent to what some high end bikes cost.

In any case, your tip regarding the better chains is well taken. -Al
 
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we find the end product with conversions isn't as good as a purpose-built alternative.
Brose claims zero drag with the motor off due to it being belt-driven internally.

In my experience, the extra rotational mass of a hub motor is a bigger drag than any internal drag in a high quality mid-drive motor. When I send people out on mid-drive or hub motor test rides and encourage them to try the bike in all the modes of assist, including off, they invariably prefer the mid-drives with the motor off than they do the hub drives with the motor off. And that's without me suggesting in advance which I think they'll prefer. But that could in part be us selling higher-end mid-drives than we ever sold hub motors (as most people in our market get hub motor bikes if the budget is tight, or get OEM mid-drive if it's in the budget; high-end hub motor bikes like Stromers are barely a factor in my local market).

I'm very curious to try, of all things, the iGo Bafang mid-drive endurance road bike. It's only 27 lbs! However, it's class-1 and I've been spoiled by class-3, so that's my only hesitation. :)
If I finally get busy and finish projects, my folder with a BBS01 250w is a sweet conversion. I’ve gone full dork.
 
I'm learning a lot here, and I appreciate both your responses and your politeness! :)
As am I. This is why I really like this forum. I learn something! You’ve had a positive effect, and I’ve learned from you. Thank you for continuing the discussion. As I wrote, I’m somewhat myopic, only supporting and working with kits.
 
Another good review... balanced pros and cons for each type. ;)


One of the biggest advantages of hub motors is that they require little or no maintenance.
They are an entirely independent drive system that retain all of their components inside the motor casing, leaving nothing for you to mess with or maintain.


The single largest advantage that mid-motors have over hub motors is their gear ratio.
They allow the rider to power the rear wheel via the same chain and gear set as the pedals, which means that a low gear can be selected for powering up steep hills or accelerating from a stop with massive torque. A mid-drive motor in low gear can climb steeper hills than a hub motor of similar power, and can climb hills for longer than a hub motor, which could overheat on long steep hill climbs.

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I'm sorry you interpreted my comment to Tom as an insult, that wasn't my intention. This has turned into a great thread thanks to you and Tom, of course anything beats the usual "what kind of suspension seat post should I buy" threads that run rampant on this forum. I hope this informative thread continues for a long time, thanks for your input.
FeliZ is a favorite poster. For me. We started off not quite appreciating each other’s view. But once we really communicated and came to understand we had a common passion the discussions became fun and we both learned from each other. Misunderstanding is perhaps the biggest struggle on forums. Once we see we’re all on the same path the quips are no longer insults. Just friends doing what friends do. Challenging and growing our knowledge base. Thanks to Court we have a well lit clean room for discussions.
 
Thanks for the great discussion! We need more insight into how LBS approach the business. My view is admittedly myopic given I have no LBS experience other than supporting mechanics doing BBSxx repairs.

Because you expressed an interest in it, I'd be pleased to let you know what I see and hear both in my LBS and from talking to other bike shop staff about the business. Just fYI, if I say "IBD" I'm meaning the same as LBS. IBD means independent bike shop, and is the term typically used inside the industry. And where many in the EBR forums refer to acoustic bikes, we in our shop usually refer to "muscle bikes" (this is the common term for a non-electric bike in Germany, meaning a bike with a muscle motor instead of an electric motor). And warning @Feliz, verbosity alert! ;)

The number one e-bike frustration for bike shops is someone buying something that the bike shop can't fully service, and the customer being reluctant to understand/accept this. The customer buys something online (whether a kit or a complete bike), and then wants the bike shop to put it together and make it all work. But like anything unfamiliar, it can take longer and customers often don't have a realistic expectation of the amount of labour (and therefore cost) involved. Also, since the bike shop hasn't sold any parts and it's a labour-only proposition, if the repair shop is busy (or has other priorities) then this can be unappealing to the shop.

Worse yet is that these online-only options often have proprietary parts, so the risk/reward formula is out of balance. The potential reward is charging the customer a relatively small amount of labour (as people going the online route are often doing so in the hopes of saving money, the customer is rarely willing to pay what the labour is really worth). The potential risk is something goes wrong and the customer demands you repair or replace their kit, or their complete bike, at your cost. And when you're working on something unfamiliar, the risk of something going wrong is significant. We once had a rear hub motor e-bike in our store that had some visible cables that clearly needed to be removed from the rear wheel, but it also had an additional cable that was very hard to see that also needed to be removed. Had we missed that additional cable and dropped the wheel out of the frame, we might have ruined the system at significant hassle/expense. That's one of many examples. With an OEM mid-drive system, there's very little the bike shop can do wrong, even if they've never seen the system before.

The final liability point is the "coincidental timing" risk. A customer drops off the e-bike and believes the electric system is working fine. The most common requests are flat repairs and tune-ups on the bike parts of the bike, with the customer usually fine with us ignoring the motor/battery/electronics. The customer later picks up the bike, tries to ride it, and something about the electric system doesn't work. We didn't touch the electric system, but how do we prove that? The customer's reaction might be "Well, you must have done something to it!" Maybe we did since it was an unfamiliar system and we didn't know what we didn't now, but maybe it's also just coincidental timing. Is the small amount we might charge for a flat repair or a tune-up worth the customer demanding we repair or replace their $2k-ish online brand e-bike? Many shops say no, and won't work on bikes like that. We are willing to work on them, but we struggle with it as there's so much potential liability for so little potential reward. The reason we do it is that, if we treat the customer right, when they wear out (or tire of) their current e-bike then we stand a good chance of selling them their next one. Especially if being expert on their maintenance lets us point to ways in which the bikes we offer might be a lower maintenance experience for them. And cheap online e-bikes tend to have shorter service life spans in our experience, so we tend to think they'll need a new bike in the near future if they're riding it a lot.

There are some IBDs that are slow to get with the times. They lean too heavily into the "if it aint broke, don't fix it" mantra. The problem with that is by the time you identify it's broken, it's often too late to switch course (or doing so is very disruptive). To that end, my bike shop started selling e-bikes in 2003. "Muscle bikes" weren't broken yet, but we could see the writing on the wall that e-bikes were going to be important. The thing that differentiates us from a lot of bike shops is our willingness to bring in brands that are either e-bike only, or e-bike focused. We've brought in Merida, Panasonic, Toba, Raleigh, iZip, Haibike, Felt, and others over the years either primarily or exclusively for their e-bikes. But that's not common. What's more common is for an IBD to only bring in the e-bikes of the brands they were already selling. So if they're a Trek dealer they sell Trek e-bikes, if they're a Kona dealer they sell Kona e-bikes, etc. This can lead to the perception that the store isn't very into e-bikes because they just don't have the same wealth of models to offer. That doesn't necessarily mean they aren't excited about e-bikes, they might be really into it and wishing their suppliers offered a bigger range of models.

Most bike shops prefer mid-drive e-bikes. From talking to other shops, most believe mid-drive is a better technical solution because they tend to be lighter weight overall, they tend to have less rotating mass in particular, they tend to have less wiring to deal with, and they believe warranty problems will be both less frequent and easier to deal with when it does happen. The lighter weight of mid-drive e-bikes is very appealing for bike shops as many/most bike shops also sell car racks, and the lighter weight the bike the more car racks can hold it. Most car racks can handle at least 35 lbs per bike. A fair number can handle as much as 45 lbs. Most brand name mid-drive e-bikes with the battery removed can be held by the 45 lbs racks, some even by the 35 lbs models. If a bike shop also caters to the inexpensive end of the e-bike market you now need to carry racks with 70 or even 80 lbs weight limits.

Another consideration is loading and unloading the bike. It's more appealing to load a 45 lbs bike into a repair stand than one that's 75 lbs, and that presumes the bike shop's even confident that their repair stands were even engineered for very heavy bikes. Many shops help customers load and unload bikes from cars and trucks too, and again a 45 pound bike is far more appealing than something in the 55-75 pound range.

Since most bike shops are selling bikes made available to them by suppliers with a bike shop focus, the majority of bikes they're selling are street legal bikes that neatly fall into the 3 class system. They're typically selling bikes with a maximum of 500w in Canada and a maximum of 750w in the U.S. The kinds of hub motor bikes that bike shops are typically offered are very low priced ones, to hit price points that mid-drives OEMs don't go down to. Most companies supplying bikes to bike shops are going to make all their high-end bikes mid-drive. This creates and perpetuates the idea that mid-drive is high-end and hub drive is low-end.

I think the prevailing wisdom within the bike industry, rightly or wrongly, is that if you're making a bike with a 500w maximum then you want it to be light weight and you want it to be a geared motor. You want to keep the wiring to a minimum to keep the bike attractive. You want to keep the maintenance and warranty to a minimum. The prevailing belief is that going with a supplier like Shimano, Bosch, Brose, or Yamaha does all of the above. Many small and medium-sized suppliers go with Shimano STePS as they're already dealing with Shimano for gears and/or brakes, so going with them for motors is simply the path of least resistance (I'm thinking of companies like Devinci, Opus, Felt, Kona, and many others). Others may have gone with Bosch because they were "the brand name" before Shimano really stepped up their game with the release of STePS 6100 (which was a gigantic improvement over what had gone before).

As a bike shop, if I'm offered a bike with a Shimano motor then I know what to do and who to talk to if I have a warranty question. If a shop has already have been dealing with Di2, then as a bonus they already have all the software and hardware that they need to do diagnostics and software updates for STePS. If a shop is considering bringing in bikes with Bosch and Yamaha for the first time, there may be a steeper learning curve than with Shimano, but those are names with a good pedigree that offer a high degree of confidence that they'll stand behind what they sell. If I'm offered a bike with Bafang, or Promovec, or something else "no name" then I don't know what it means if I have a problem. And I'm less confident that I won't have problems. And problems cost money in a bike shop. Bikes are low margin, and any warranty service eats into that already low margin so I need to avoid that whenever possible.

Interestingly, there is an exception to all of the above. Some bike shops target the low end in their muscle bikes, selling brands like Raleigh, Miele, or Garneau. They will often target the low end with their e-bikes too, and will then almost always offer mostly or exclusively cheap hub motor bikes from companies like iGo, Evo, Garneau, etc. This further reinforces the idea within IBDs that hub motors are for "cheap" bikes and mid-drives are for "good" bikes. When you look at iGo's line-up, most of their models are hub motor but their highest-end model is mid-drive. Ditto what Garneau and Evo are doing, the cheaper bikes are all hub motor and the highest-end models for 2020 are mid-drive (no info online for these new mid-drive models last I checked, so this is a spoiler for 2020!). This fits into and reinforces the LBS world view.

The final nail in the coffin are the people coming in which cheap online e-bikes with weird problems. This is self-reinforcing as the bike shop sees both the good and bad of the bike shop brands, but only sees the bad of the online brands (as the people having success with their online brands are out riding rather than taking it into the shop). We see a front hub bike with a fork that's failing, we don't see the hundreds that are doing just fine. We see the rear hub bike with the broken spoke, we don't see the ones without the broken spokes because they had no reason to bring it in.

Most of my staff ride e-bikes, and we all ride mid-drive e-bikes. Would some of us be more open to hub motor bikes if in the past we'd sold, say, Stromer instead of bikes with BionX motors? Maybe yes, maybe no. It's an interesting question, actually. With FSA having decided to go hub motor, that has provided a jolt of legitimacy to the idea of hub motors into the IBD parlance. Up until now the narrative has been "All the good companies [Shimano, Bosch, Yamaha, Brose] went mid-drive, and most of the companies known for hub motors [Bafang, etc.] are working on adding mid-drives to their line-up, therefore mid-drive is the future." FSA is the first really respected company in the traditional bike industry to go with a hub motor option, so it'll be interesting to see how FSA's options compete with Fazua and Bafang's road bike mid-drive options. Having looked at the three, I've ordered a Fazua system for myself, and continue to evaluate iGo's road bike with a Bafang M800. But I've had a few customers ask about Orbea's road e-bike options (which use an Ebikemotion hub motor). But the people asking about Orbea's bikes typically do so citing their low cost, not because they've carefully evaluated hub motor vs. mid-drive and concluded the hub motor is better for their needs. So, there again, the Orbea option feels like it's the "cheap" hub motor option vs. the "good" mid-drive options from Look, etc. So everywhere you turn, that idea of mid-drive being desirable and hub motor being for people who can't afford mid-drive keeps cropping up when you're looking at it from the LBS perspective.

That's more than enough for now. I'd love to hear anyone's thoughts, and answer anyone's questions about all this. :)
 
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Much easier to see where you are coming from, and why. I just hope you keep an open mind regarding the hub drives. We do agree the gear driven motors do a good job in a lot of different applications.
 
Because you expressed an interest in it, I'd be pleased to let you know what I see and hear both in my LBS and from talking to other bike shop staff about the business. Just fYI, if I say "IBD" I'm meaning the same as LBS. IBD means independent bike shop, and is the term typically used inside the industry. And where many in the EBR forums refer to acoustic bikes, we in our shop usually refer to "muscle bikes" (this is the common term for a non-electric bike in Germany, meaning a bike with a muscle motor instead of an electric motor). And warning @Feliz, verbosity alert! ;)

The number one e-bike frustration for bike shops is someone buying something that the bike shop can't fully service, and the customer being reluctant to understand/accept this. The customer buys something online (whether a kit or a complete bike), and then wants the bike shop to put it together and make it all work. But like anything unfamiliar, it can take longer and customers often don't have a realistic expectation of the amount of labour (and therefore cost) involved. Also, since the bike shop hasn't sold any parts and it's a labour-only proposition, if the repair shop is busy (or has other priorities) then this can be unappealing to the shop.

Worse yet is that these online-only options often have proprietary parts, so the risk/reward formula is out of balance. The potential reward is charging the customer a relatively small amount of labour (as people going the online route are often doing so in the hopes of saving money, the customer is rarely willing to pay what the labour is really worth). The potential risk is something goes wrong and the customer demands you repair or replace their kit, or their complete bike, at your cost. And when you're working on something unfamiliar, the risk of something going wrong is significant. We once had a rear hub motor e-bike in our store that had some visible cables that clearly needed to be removed from the rear wheel, but it also had an additional cable that was very hard to see that also needed to be removed. Had we missed that additional cable and dropped the wheel out of the frame, we might have ruined the system at significant hassle/expense. That's one of many examples. With an OEM mid-drive system, there's very little the bike shop can do wrong, even if they've never seen the system before.

The final liability point is the "coincidental timing" risk. A customer drops off the e-bike and believes the electric system is working fine. The most common requests are flat repairs and tune-ups on the bike parts of the bike, with the customer usually fine with us ignoring the motor/battery/electronics. The customer later picks up the bike, tries to ride it, and something about the electric system doesn't work. We didn't touch the electric system, but how do we prove that? The customer's reaction might be "Well, you must have done something to it!" Maybe we did since it was an unfamiliar system and we didn't know what we didn't now, but maybe it's also just coincidental timing. Is the small amount we might charge for a flat repair or a tune-up worth the customer demanding we repair or replace their $2k-ish online brand e-bike? Many shops say no, and won't work on bikes like that. We are willing to work on them, but we struggle with it as there's so much potential liability for so little potential reward. The reason we do it is that, if we treat the customer right, when they wear out (or tire of) their current e-bike then we stand a good chance of selling them their next one. Especially if being expert on their maintenance lets us point to ways in which the bikes we offer might be a lower maintenance experience for them. And cheap online e-bikes tend to have shorter service life spans in our experience, so we tend to think they'll need a new bike in the near future if they're riding it a lot.

There are some IBDs that are slow to get with the times. They lean too heavily into the "if it aint broke, don't fix it" mantra. The problem with that is by the time you identify it's broken, it's often too late to switch course (or doing so is very disruptive). To that end, my bike shop started selling e-bikes in 2003. "Muscle bikes" weren't broken yet, but we could see the writing on the wall that e-bikes were going to be important. The thing that differentiates us from a lot of bike shops is our willingness to bring in brands that are either e-bike only, or e-bike focused. We've brought in Merida, Panasonic, Toba, Raleigh, iZip, Haibike, Felt, and others over the years either primarily or exclusively for their e-bikes. But that's not common. What's more common is for an IBD to only bring in the e-bikes of the brands they were already selling. So if they're a Trek dealer they sell Trek e-bikes, if they're a Kona dealer they sell Kona e-bikes, etc. This can lead to the perception that the store isn't very into e-bikes because they just don't have the same wealth of models to offer. That doesn't necessarily mean they aren't excited about e-bikes, they might be really into it and wishing their suppliers offered a bigger range of models.

Most bike shops prefer mid-drive e-bikes. From talking to other shops, most believe mid-drive is a better technical solution because they tend to be lighter weight overall, they tend to have less rotating mass in particular, they tend to have less wiring to deal with, and they believe warranty problems will be both less frequent and easier to deal with when it does happen. The lighter weight of mid-drive e-bikes is very appealing for bike shops as many/most bike shops also sell car racks, and the lighter weight the bike the more car racks can hold it. Most car racks can handle at least 35 lbs per bike. A fair number can handle as much as 45 lbs. Most brand name mid-drive e-bikes with the battery removed can be held by the 45 lbs racks, some even by the 35 lbs models. If a bike shop also caters to the inexpensive end of the e-bike market you now need to carry racks with 70 or even 80 lbs weight limits.

Another consideration is loading and unloading the bike. It's more appealing to load a 45 lbs bike into a repair stand than one that's 75 lbs, and that presumes the bike shop's even confident that their repair stands were even engineered for very heavy bikes. Many shops help customers load and unload bikes from cars and trucks too, and again a 45 pound bike is far more appealing than something in the 55-75 pound range.

Since most bike shops are selling bikes made available to them by suppliers with a bike shop focus, the majority of bikes they're selling are street legal bikes that neatly fall into the 3 class system. They're typically selling bikes with a maximum of 500w in Canada and a maximum of 750w in the U.S. The kinds of hub motor bikes that bike shops are typically offered are very low priced ones, to hit price points that mid-drives OEMs don't go down to. Most companies supplying bikes to bike shops are going to make all their high-end bikes mid-drive. This creates and perpetuates the idea that mid-drive is high-end and hub drive is low-end.

I think the prevailing wisdom within the bike industry, rightly or wrongly, is that if you're making a bike with a 500w maximum then you want it to be light weight and you want it to be a geared motor. You want to keep the wiring to a minimum to keep the bike attractive. You want to keep the maintenance and warranty to a minimum. The prevailing belief is that going with a supplier like Shimano, Bosch, Brose, or Yamaha does all of the above. Many small and medium-sized suppliers go with Shimano STePS as they're already dealing with Shimano for gears and/or brakes, so going with them for motors is simply the path of least resistance (I'm thinking of companies like Devinci, Opus, Felt, Kona, and many others). Others may have gone with Bosch because they were "the brand name" before Shimano really stepped up their game with the release of STePS 6100 (which was a gigantic improvement over what had gone before).

As a bike shop, if I'm offered a bike with a Shimano motor then I know what to do and who to talk to if I have a warranty question. If a shop has already have been dealing with Di2, then as a bonus they already have all the software and hardware that they need to do diagnostics and software updates for STePS. If a shop is considering bringing in bikes with Bosch and Yamaha for the first time, there may be a steeper learning curve than with Shimano, but those are names with a good pedigree that offer a high degree of confidence that they'll stand behind what they sell. If I'm offered a bike with Bafang, or Promovec, or something else "no name" then I don't know what it means if I have a problem. And I'm less confident that I won't have problems. And problems cost money in a bike shop. Bikes are low margin, and any warranty service eats into that already low margin so I need to avoid that whenever possible.

Interestingly, there is an exception to all of the above. Some bike shops target the low end in their muscle bikes, selling brands like Raleigh, Miele, or Garneau. They will often target the low end with their e-bikes too, and will then almost always offer mostly or exclusively cheap hub motor bikes from companies like iGo, Evo, Garneau, etc. This further reinforces the idea within IBDs that hub motors are for "cheap" bikes and mid-drives are for "good" bikes. When you look at iGo's line-up, most of their models are hub motor but their highest-end model is mid-drive. Ditto what Garneau and Evo are doing, the cheaper bikes are all hub motor and the highest-end models for 2020 are mid-drive (no info online for these new mid-drive models last I checked, so this is a spoiler for 2020!). This fits into and reinforces the LBS world view.

The final nail in the coffin are the people coming in which cheap online e-bikes with weird problems. This is self-reinforcing as the bike shop sees both the good and bad of the bike shop brands, but only sees the bad of the online brands (as the people having success with their online brands are out riding rather than taking it into the shop). We see a front hub bike with a fork that's failing, we don't see the hundreds that are doing just fine. We see the rear hub bike with the broken spoke, we don't see the ones without the broken spokes because they had no reason to bring it in.

Most of my staff ride e-bikes, and we all ride mid-drive e-bikes. Would some of us be more open to hub motor bikes if in the past we'd sold, say, Stromer instead of bikes with BionX motors? Maybe yes, maybe no. It's an interesting question, actually. With FSA having decided to go hub motor, that has provided a jolt of legitimacy to the idea of hub motors into the IBD parlance. Up until now the narrative has been "All the good companies [Shimano, Bosch, Yamaha, Brose] went mid-drive, and most of the companies known for hub motors [Bafang, etc.] are working on adding mid-drives to their line-up, therefore mid-drive is the future." FSA is the first really respected company in the traditional bike industry to go with a hub motor option, so it'll be interesting to see how FSA's options compete with Fazua and Bafang's road bike mid-drive options. Having looked at the three, I've ordered a Fazua system for myself, and continue to evaluate iGo's road bike with a Bafang M800. But I've had a few customers ask about Orbea's road e-bike options (which use an Ebikemotion hub motor). But the people asking about Orbea's bikes typically do so citing their low cost, not because they've carefully evaluated hub motor vs. mid-drive and concluded the hub motor is better for their needs. So, there again, the Orbea option feels like it's the "cheap" hub motor option vs. the "good" mid-drive options from Look, etc. So everywhere you turn, that idea of mid-drive being desirable and hub motor being for people who can't afford mid-drive keeps cropping up when you're looking at it from the LBS perspective.

That's more than enough for now. I'd love to hear anyone's thoughts, and answer anyone's questions about all this. :)


Very informative review from the IBD perspective... thanks for posting.
 
Much easier to see where you are coming from, and why. I just hope you keep an open mind regarding the hub drives. We do agree the gear driven motors do a good job in a lot of different applications.
It really is a shame to eliminate hub drives from any selection. There are very small and quite powerful hub drives thst are lighter than some mid drive motors. The simplicity, repairability, easy parts access, and reliability are perfect for less expensive yet great bikes.

I’ve got a little aluminum body 250-350w MXUS GEAR DRIVE that makes for a great level 1 EBike. It’s really a shame to suggest every customer get into the cost and complexity of a mid drive.

These make very good conversion kits. Making a favorite muscle bike a great assistance ride. These simplified kits are doing well in some IBD. I have a dozen shops that are doing well with good quality conversions. My little MXUS kit adds less than 20 lbs and with a decent Alex wheel build, low maintenance.

I wish we still sold them. Easy install, easy to support as well.
 
>snip

48v 500w with pas 0 and throttle would likely be just about right.

I ordered a Bafang rear hub and wheel from Bluenergy for our Roll. Looks to be a direct bolt-in. Panasonic shark pack.

And got a yamaha-powered Giant Explore+ 3 coming. Got the last 2019 at a deal, ships from the east coast warehouse.

I was really interested in the new Yamaha bike, but it seemed too road-racer for me. The Explore suits me better for our riding style.
I really liked the Trek Verve+ as well, but again the Giant seemed to have more of what I wanted.

So now I get to try both hub-drive and mid-drive - demo'd both and liked them both - just a little different in application and use.

I guess our grown-children like and want our retired bikes. Dayum...was gonna sell 'em. ;)
 
Just throwing this out there to see what people think who have owned both a mid drive and a hub drive ebike.

Thus far, after selling ebikes for 3 years, and following, researching, testing, riding them since the late 90's, I'm having a hard time identifying why someone would want to pay typically $1000 to $3000 more for mid drives, versus a comparably equipped (i.e. same quality/level of brakes, derailleurs, rims, tires other bike components) hub drive ebike.

In 3 years, I haven't had anyone who owned hub drives, come back and tell me they have had issues with chain failures, derailleur failures, or even motor issues. Whereas, I have had multiple people come in, who bought their mid drives elsewhere, needing to have many of these things replaced or repaired. Also a small handful of complete failures on various brands of mid-drives.

Yet there are so many more models of mid-drives these days, than hub drives being advertised (not sure if more mid drives are actually being sold here in the US than hub drives) by the various OEM's.

The other thing I'm seeing is a lot of mid drives that are 'on sale', with original prices around $3500 to $5000, now priced at half or even less. Lots of Haibikes like that, Bulls, and other European brands. How can dealers afford to carry that inventory and price them so low ? With the traditional margins in the industry, half price would put them well below dealer cost. Very perplexing. How do they stay in business that way ?

Also, many of the mid-drives are rated at 250 watts, or maybe 350 watts, yet with hub drives you can easily get 750 watts, or even 1000 watts being offered (despite 1000 being over the Federal 'legal' standard of 750 watt). Sure you can use gearing with mid drives to achieve higher than normal torque levels (i.e. 90 NM instead of maybe 40 to 60 NM), but low wattage and high torque means a significant trade off in terms of internal gearing wear and tear, and a lot of extra circuitry and software algo's to keep things in check. High torque can be achieved with hub drives the same way - appropriate gearing ratios. Some mid drives do feel a little smoother than some hub drives, but once you are riding regularly, the difference doesn't seem noticeable enough to affect the overall daily ride. The assist and the power seem more important to me, and the mid drives seem to overall top out much faster (unless you get a more expensive Class 3 designed mid drive). Torque sensing vs cadence sensing can be done in both hub drives and mid drives, so it really comes down to personal preference/budget on sensing for the motor assist.

I'm just curious in hearing some honest feedback, and whether it was more a budget issue that people chose a hub drive instead of a mid drive, or whether it was some really important attribute that people who bought mid-drives were willing to shell out so much more money ? Maybe I'm missing something ? Maybe there are people who just like to spend a lot of money on an ebike because of their perceptions that come from how these ebikes are being marketed by industry ? I don't know. Maybe the early adopters of ebikes feel spending more money translates to better quality somehow and they have deeper pockets by being higher income buyers than mainstream population ? Again, not professing to know, just posing some people suppositions.

P.S. Not trying to start a mud slinging thread here either. More interested in the thought process in how people got themselves into one type of drive vs the other. I may sound biased, but I really would like to understand what it is that makes people willing to spend so much more money for a mid drive than they have to for a hub drive.
One thing that I notice that no one mentions is that with a mid drive you only have a 1x drive train and to me that is off putting because if you have to pedal the bike without assist, then it could be very difficult going up hills. I like the idea of having an ebike that can be pedaled easily in the advent that the power is cut, and a bikes gearing has more to do with this than a bikes weight.
 
One thing that I notice that no one mentions is that with a mid drive you only have a 1x drive train and to me that is off putting because if you have to pedal the bike without assist, then it could be very difficult going up hills. I like the idea of having an ebike that can be pedaled easily in the advent that the power is cut, and a bikes gearing has more to do with this than a bikes weight.

I've just returned from a 25km ride on my mid drive, most of it unpowered. There were a few steep sections involved. If there's minimal drag from the motor - as there is with my Yamaha - and a good spread of gears - which my dual chain rings give me - it's not hard, well not much harder than a regular bike!
 
I've just returned from a 25km ride on my mid drive, most of it unpowered. There were a few steep sections involved. If there's minimal drag from the motor - as there is with my Yamaha - and a good spread of gears - which my dual chain rings give me - it's not hard, well not much harder than a regular bike!
I didn't think you could have a dual chain ring with a mid drive? Did you have to buy a particular kit or anything?
 
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