Melty Battery Connector

[Curtech]

New day, new issue! The battery connector is melted! My guess here is that with vibration, the connection giggled looser and looser until it got to that point of barely connecting. Tiny connection surface equals high resistance equals heat equals melt! Seems the car companies know this. I guess Mukkpet will need to catch up. I'm off to warranty request land

 

[Curtech]

I've atteempted to clean up this melted Deans (t-plug) socket. Dug out the melted plastic and, since the contact is melted down and into the plastic, I've fashioned a brass shim to take up the space. It works ... for now. I don't think this would have been a problem if the connector had a clip to prevent it from coming loose over time/vibration.

What type of connectors are some of you using? Any with clips to prevent them from wiggling loose? Seems something like the Tamiya connector used on RC cars would do the job so long as it's for higher amps.

 

[harryS]

If it never has to come apart in the future, and you don't have ability to solder it, two crimp connectors will work. I don't use them, but crimp advocates say they're long lived.

I use Xt60 connectors. You see them on RC batteries. The XT90's are bigger of course, but I'm running less than 10A continuous.

 

[indianajo]

two crimp connectors will work. I don't use them, but crimp advocates say they're long lived.

Crimp terminals from ***** will melt out above 30 amps. I have had controllers that will deliver 40 and 50 amps. Crimp terminals from USA or ****** can work to 40 amps. Terminal brands I find useable for my ebike battery are TE connectivity, Panduit, 3M, T&B, Ideal. Dorman at the auto supply comes from 2 sources. The ones in the multipack are from ***** and will melt out at high current. The ones in the individual packs from ****** are useable at higher currents.
Make sure you pull test after installation. I find it impossible to make a good crimp with most of the import crimp tools. I use tools from Klein and Ideal. Your hands might be stronger.

 

[harryS]

I forgot that many ebike kits use crimped on bullet connectors for the heavy motor wires and also the battery power, This caused to look at pics of my first ebike kit from 2015, Yep, that what it used. I take back my claim of never using them.

In fact, for eight years I used a foot of lamp cord, crimped in between the motor controller and battery cradle. Crimps were covered in heat shrink, so it keep the moisture out,

 

[Curtech]

Ya I hear crimp terminals are less brittle than soldering. Still amazed that clip/screw on connectors aren't the norm. Warranty parts on the way. Guess I'll ziptie the replacement deans connectors together.

 

[PCeBiker]

Warranty parts on the way. Guess I'll ziptie the replacement deans connectors together.

What parts are you getting?
Is it just new connectors that need to be attached to your wires?

If so, I would personally just bypass the connector and crimp the wires together then seal it.

I would just cut the crimp and redo it, if I ever needed to disconnect it again.

 

[Curtech]

They say they will send " ... replacement battery contact connector ... ", so, ya I'm guessing they're gonna send me about 6 inches of wire with the female deans connector.

 

[PCeBiker]

They say they will send " ... replacement battery contact connector ... ", so, ya I'm guessing they're gonna send me about 6 inches of wire with the female deans connector.

Sounds like you're still gunna have to do some crimping or soldering?
That sucks.

Maybe just bypass the connector?

 

[PCeBiker]

Tiny connection surface equals high resistance equals heat equals melt!

Dielectric grease helps to preserve and protect the contacts by sealing the metal so it doesn't oxidize or spark.
It also helps to conduct heat so there's less chance of burning and oxidizing.

I pack all my ebike connectors with it.
I do it when the bike is new.

It doesn't work as well to fix an already burnt/damaged/oxidized connector unless you clean the contacts up really good first