Luna Z1 - First impressions

That is a bummer about the charging port nut. Looks like you will need to drop the motor to access the back side and will need to cut the leads to slip on the nut. Soldering up in there will be a pain. But you can't just leave it flopping and open.
I would use the Thule Tour Rack. It has four mounting points and does not cantilever. I would use vinyl wrap to cover the logo. Here is some on a center console. It shapes with a heat gun. I covered my fist electric bike with it.
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Yeah, I've seen those swingarm mounted racks but I didn't want to add that much unsprung weight, especially for all the off-roading I do. Not to mention the abuse everything in my pack will experience, including aux batteries at times.

I can actually see the nut with the wires threaded through it, but the problem is solved with some adhesive.
 
Yeah, I've seen those swingarm mounted racks but I didn't want to add that much unsprung weight, especially for all the off-roading I do. Not to mention the abuse everything in my pack will experience, including aux batteries at times.

I can actually see the nut with the wires threaded through it, but the problem is solved with some adhesive.
How about hot glue around the inside then pull it flush? Then follow up with some liquid rubber sealant? You are right on about sprung weight on a full suspension. Good point.
 
As long as we are dogpiling on seatpost racks... :D

I tried one on my Stumpjumper as the only alternative for a battery carrier. It was *terrible*. A problem I had that hasn't been mentioned: no matter what you do, if you are bonking around and have any amount of weight on the rack it can shift right or left. Try using some rubber backing? Yeah me too. Upgrading the hardware? No workee. Picking out a rack with the best clamp you can find and then upgrade THAT hardware? Still no joy. I would have ended up using that Thule Tour rack, except a myopic little old lady ran me and that bike over which eliminated the need to perfect the battery mount.
 
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So far I'm pretty impressed with the rack. I was worried about slamming a metal clamp on my alloy seatpost tube, but there are rubber inserts that attach securely to the inside of the clamp so they won't scratch the painted tube. I think I've got plenty of rear tire clearance. I'll have to see if it moves around.
I've see this rack somewhere but not sure where - which rack is this and link?
 
Yeah, I've seen those swingarm mounted racks but I didn't want to add that much unsprung weight, especially for all the off-roading I do. Not to mention the abuse everything in my pack will experience, including aux batteries at times.

I can actually see the nut with the wires threaded through it, but the problem is solved with some adhesive.
+ attaching to a CF frame has same arguments on nod adding kickstands etc. other than the weight, concerns on causing any places to start a crack?
 
Yes carry a chain. Its a default rule: If you are riding a badass motor a spare chain, sized to work (doesn't have to be exact to work with every gear; you just need to get home) is the easiest way to get back riding and not do the walk of shame back home, or have to spend any more time than necessary snuggled up against a rock on a cliffside trail dinking around with links to get your busted chain back in action. I also carry a couple spare quicklinks, a extra-small Park chain breaker (as a fallback in case I get really screwed) and chain pliers. The pliers are just something to make my life easier. There are all sorts of workarounds like shoelaces etc. but when there is no real penalty for doing it I prefer carrying the right tool for the job.
Broke the stock chain on the second ride, full power up 14% grade at 18 mph. I noticed stock chain is SRAM , but not eagle. I had a SRAM Eagle nx chain on hand and installed without fanfare. Ordered 3 more since everyone is out of stock on eagle chains
 
Got my X2 today but only time for a very quick ride. Will do a separate thread tomorrow but even thought I plan on ditching the 12 speed, I picked up a 12s spare chain after your post ;)
 
Got my X2 today but only time for a very quick ride. Will do a separate thread tomorrow but even thought I plan on ditching the 12 speed, I picked up a 12s spare chain after your post ;)
I dropped my 11 to a wider chain and stronger cogs 9-speed setup with the same overall range. It is much better and less expensive to maintain.
 
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I dropped my 11 to a wider chain and stronger cogs 9-speed setup with the same overall range. It is much better and less expensive to maintain.
Same thinking but just weighing options while seeing if Shimano ever gets ‘Linkglide’ 10s out in the wild… or Box or Advent ore Sunrace cassette and Shimano Deore or XT. What dd you go with and what cassette range?
 
I've see this rack somewhere but not sure where - which rack is this and link?

My only complaint so far is the clamp is pretty wide, adding a bout 3/4" to the seat post and I occasionally brush it with my thigh. And even though I have about 5" clearance on my rear tire, It scrubbed the rack a couple times on big bumps.

Topeak QR MTX
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My only complaint so far is the clamp is pretty wide, adding a bout 3/4" to the seat post and I occasionally brush it with my thigh. And even though I have about 5" clearance on my rear tire, It scrubbed the rack a couple times on big bumps.

Topeak QR MTX
Love to know if it holds up over time. Which rack is it?
 
I dropped my 11 to a wider chain and stronger cogs 9-speed setup with the same overall range. It is much better and less expensive to maintain.
I *just* finished doing a Box Components Prime 9 on my sand crawler, to give me bigger cogs in back. I replaced a Shimano Deore XT 9spd that peaked at 32T. So far, the Prime 9 is pretty much fantastic. Derailleur is a Box Two with a 50T capability and shifter is Box 2 with single-shift per throw. The 11-46T Box 3 cassette I chose after speaking with a Box Components engineer about durability turns out to be a Sunrace CS-M83 with a Box-branded lockring (Have a CS-M83 on hand as a backup so easy to compare).

I wanted to try Box and it really is a superior setup for 9s that has a single-shift shifter and also that shifter is SRAM-style in terms of the real estate it uses, which lets me do my dual throttles 1-per-thumb which was not possible on the Shimano setup. The chain appears to be a KMC with flanges in the outer plates for the chain. I get the feeling from talking with Box - they didn't say anything overt when discussing chains but I got an inkling - that their Box 2 chain that I used is sourced from KMC.

With all of that said, for strength I'd still have no qualms over an 11 spd SRAM with Sunrace CSMS7 cluster. That cluster is the closest thing to the Shimano HG400 9s 1-piece steelie, which btw after 1400 miles had barely scored the steel DT350 cassette body underneath when I pulled it off and retired it.

I am finding 9 spd stuff less and less available in the marketplace.
 
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I dropped my 11 to a wider chain and stronger cogs 9-speed setup with the same overall range. It is much better and less expensive to maintain.
They have a bunch on Amazon that are generic and very good. You are not paying for a logo but can put on a sticker if it makes you feel better. 11-42 is all I need and I have big hills in the SF Coastal North Bay. Narrow chains cut into cogs like a saw. Swapping to a nine speed helped a lot. This one is $32. I have had it on one of my bikes since last February. I will swap it this coming February.
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They have a bunch on Amazon that are generic and very good. You are not paying for a logo but can put on a sticker if it makes you feel better. 11-42 is all I need and I have big hills in the SF Coastal North Bay. Narrow chains cut into cogs like a saw. Swapping to a nine speed helped a lot. This one is $32. I have had it on one of my bikes since last February. I will swap it this coming February.
The problem I have with those is simply that I don't know which ones are any good and which are crap. And riding in the boonies, if I taco something stamped out of pot metal I am screwed.
 
I received mine today and set it up. Adding to OP points:
PROS:
1) Paint is beautiful. metal multicolor flakes is hard to photograph, but looks great in light
2) Easy assembly. Gears are NOT adjusted correctly so be sure to do that BEFORE you ride! Once they are adjusted they are very smooth.
3) spokes and swing link torque settings were all correct out of the box.
4) supplied pedals are metal, not plastic like most other bikes. Most people will want to install their own pedals but these are perfectly serviceable.
CONS:
1) Motor is LOUD. I have another Ultra (Aluminum) and it is whisper quiet, about like a Bosch. This one is like a coffee grinder. I am told it will quiet down after it is worn in, and perhaps the Magnesium is louder than Aluminum, but crimminy this thing is LOUD ,and that the main reason I shied away from the M600 (X2).
2) Charger is adequate, 2.8 amps fan cooled.
3) Dropper seat is KS 100mm travel, inadequate for bike that is otherwise splendid as a hard core off road machine.
4) rear axle is quick release but front axle requires an Allen wrench, disappointing since removing the front wheel is required to put it in my car, I can buy one online.
5) Runs Small. I a little under 6' and ordered a medium. Seat is extended to almost max reach, I had to add a longer stem. I could easily have taken a large. It is significantly smaller than my other eMTB which is a 17"/medium. Oh well if its too small somebody here will take it, Im sure!

Tomorrow I'l get to actually ride it. Report to follow.
Its been cold and wet, finally got a chance to ride it today.
The good - fast, at full throttle in highest gear top speed 32 MPH flat with no wind. Top speed going down hill 43 mph. Suspension is delightful.
The bad - battery at 5% after 14 miles. To be fair, that was riding at full throttle most of the way, including 1400 feet of elevation gain, on the first cycle of the battery, Expect battery to improve after 2-3 cycles.
The worst - power cutoff with battery at 46.5 volts. A 48 V battery should safely discharge to 39-40 volts. Whoever set the BMS to cutoff at 46.5 volts needs a talking to. I could not find ANY user configurable setting to lower the battery cutoff to a more reasonable value like 42 or 40 volts.
 
Its been cold and wet, finally got a chance to ride it today.
The good - fast, at full throttle in highest gear top speed 32 MPH flat with no wind. Top speed going down hill 43 mph. Suspension is delightful.
The bad - battery at 5% after 14 miles. To be fair, that was riding at full throttle most of the way, including 1400 feet of elevation gain, on the first cycle of the battery, Expect battery to improve after 2-3 cycles.
The worst - power cutoff with battery at 46.5 volts. A 48 V battery should safely discharge to 39-40 volts. Whoever set the BMS to cutoff at 46.5 volts needs a talking to. I could not find ANY user configurable setting to lower the battery cutoff to a more reasonable value like 42 or 40 volts.
That's a pretty low voltage but you probably have a few low cells that triggered the BMS. Most BMS' monitor individual cell voltages. After a couple charge cycles your cells should better equalize. Also, voltage droop when your pulling a lot of current may also trigger the BMS shutdown. Next time you might try shutting off the system and let it sit for a minute or two as the cells partially recover.

I got about 18 miles on my second ride, also including a lot of elevation.
 
Its been cold and wet, finally got a chance to ride it today.
The good - fast, at full throttle in highest gear top speed 32 MPH flat with no wind. Top speed going down hill 43 mph. Suspension is delightful.
The bad - battery at 5% after 14 miles. To be fair, that was riding at full throttle most of the way, including 1400 feet of elevation gain, on the first cycle of the battery, Expect battery to improve after 2-3 cycles.
The worst - power cutoff with battery at 46.5 volts. A 48 V battery should safely discharge to 39-40 volts. Whoever set the BMS to cutoff at 46.5 volts needs a talking to. I could not find ANY user configurable setting to lower the battery cutoff to a more reasonable value like 42 or 40 volts.

Not sure if it matters, but was your voltage set at 48? Mine was at 52 when I checked, so I set it to 48 manually.
 
Got mine this afternoon around 3:30. Had to meet the driver 10 minutes away as my place isn't semi friendly as I live at the end of the road. It looked lonely in the 28' semi all by itself. Box was undamaged so I signed and threw it in my wagon.

Got it out of the box without straining my back which is a positive. Packaged well enough as reported by others. All parts included. Mine is a medium btw.

Pulled off the rear wheel for tubelessing and then set up the handlebars for my preference. From right to left:
Grip Shift shorty grip
SRAM 12spd Grip Shift
Throttle
Brake mount
Stem with ugly to big display that I don't see any way to make less obtrusive so thinking an eggrider is in the cards.
Mode control pad
Brake mount
Dropper lever
WTB grip
Handlebars are way wider than my old school ones I've been using. Guess I'll get used to them as they seem to be the thing these days.

Took off the Rekons/tubes, what is with the schrader valves?s/rim strips then massaged the spokes to see if there was any looseness. None and in fact felt good and both were super true with no hops. Bonus! I had some MucOff 35mm tape and put that on (highly recommend btw) and luckily the valves I got had extra big grommets and seem to be holding well in the oversize hole.

Mounted my preferred WTB tires, 2.6 Vigilante in the front and 2.8 Vigilante in the rear and they seated right away with my little harbor freight compressor. Hypo'd in 120oz of Trucker Cream, aired up to 25psi and did the rotate and shake thing and they are holding just fine. I'll leave them overnight but will most likely be using more like 15 or so psi as I have with my other emtb.

Life got in the way for awhile and then I put the wheels back on and went over all the nuts and bolts and adjusted the bar population and tightened all that down. I have a small USB light and while it would turn on, which excited me, it didn't work for more than a few seconds plugged into the back of the display. There is a street lamp, the only one for a mile in any direction across the road and I headed for that but I only got one down and up in 1 mode, of 5, before it went to bed for the night.

No blemishes in the sparkly paint nor carbon fiber lay up issues but the white LUNA logos on the DT are ugly as sin :rolleyes: would much prefer if they were the black like the X2 has.

The no name rear hub engagement is very sloppy and a probable cause for why people are breaking chains. I am used to a Chris King hub. That will be changed. The crank engagement is a bit sloppy also and those two working against each other is another chain popping problem I suppose. The throttle is not programmed right either and I will not be offering test rides until that is calmed down a bit...likes to jack rabbit off the start which is the main reason I like a throttle. I am getting a programming cable and have links to all the softwares so that can at least be fixed. PAS seemed to work ok other than the drive train lag and the motor I would say is pretty darn quiet for a steel gear motor.

Overall I am happy enough with how things are turning out but if it is only good for 20 miles of ride time it will be up for sale.....Oh, and there are absolutely no issues with chain line or hitting the chainstay in the lowest gear. Must be because it doesn't have the special Hydra rear end that was developed in house and LUNA forgot to rip that part off, which supposedly was the special part to begin with.....oh the drama:eek:
 
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would any of you Z1 owners who got a large frame mind measuring the reach, their website shows the TT but not the reach.

thanks!
 
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