Looking for a replacement for cassette on Rad Rover?

pawtoki

pawtoki

Active Member
1700 miles and the cassette is showing sever wear. I was definitely rough on it when I first started riding the RRST. A lot of teeth are rounding off and a couple are essentially worn off.

I have no problem with the ratio's. I just want a strong freewheeling cassette. The reviews I'm seeing are always so mixed on strength of the system. I'd like to do this once and move on!

Any suggestions or experiences are welcome.
 
Does your bike use a cassette, or a freewheel?
 
Amazon has 11-34 replacements, unfortunately swapping it out is kind of difficult because of the motor cable.

Boltons removal tool looks to be pretty good but $$
 
The RAD is a freewheel. Not a freehub cassette. Any will do provide the cage is long enough for the largest sprocket - lowest gear.
 
I thought it was a freewheel, so I thought better ask!

You want an 11 tooth small gear so you can stay up with the petals as you approach 20mph. The big geat is available in a 32t or 28t. As I rarely have any use for climbing walls, I generally go with the 28t.

Second the fact you're going to need a tool to remove the freewheel - or maybe take it to a local shop so they can remove it for you?

If the sprocket is as bad as you describe, betting the chain is to.

 
I used the 11-34 version that u posted.

I never found a LBS that had a removal tool that could cope with the cable . I cut a slot in the tool but was unsuccessful even then.
 
There are eight notches on the back side that are square and 4mm wide. Jamming two small flat screw drivers into them from opposite sides could do the trick. The clear plastic dork disk may need to go by the time you are done. Have the new chain on hand and next time change it before it eats the cogs.
 
Appreciate all the comments so far. Size, and removal are not the problem. Most of the Amazon offered cassettes appear to be cheap or poor in quality. Lots of poor reviews on wobbling..

I'm looking for any comments on the actual replacement part. Who would be best and who should I not even consider?
 
AHicks said:
I thought it was a freewheel, so I thought better ask!

You want an 11 tooth small gear so you can stay up with the petals as you approach 20mph. The big geat is available in a 32t or 28t. As I rarely have any use for climbing walls, I generally go with the 28t.

Second the fact you're going to need a tool to remove the freewheel - or maybe take it to a local shop so they can remove it for you?

If the sprocket is as bad as you describe, betting the chain is to.

Click to expand...
chain looks great, the sprocket looks like it's low end quality.
 
If you want an 11t as most of us would, you have little choice but to go with the DNP. They're the only ones that offer it.

There is an option, but I'm not familiar with the specifics. That would be to go with a different brand freewheel that uses a 14t small sprocket, then increase the size of the front sprocket to offset that gear so you would be able to stay up with the pedals. That option will likely requre a longer chain too.

And to prevent further confusion, stop calling it a cassette. It's a freewheel and the 2 parts are NOT interchangeable.

A chain that's completely shot can still "look" great. To judge, you need to purchase a very inexpensive tool (maybe 5.00) that will measure how far your chain has stretched. That stretch is generally the root cause of gears that have been ruined as you describe.

1700 miles to failure on a freewheel and chain that haven't received absolute premium care wouldn't be that unusual. -Al
 
AHicks said:
If you want an 11t as most of us would, you have little choice but to go with the DNP. They're the only ones that offer it.

There is an option, but I'm not familiar with the specifics. That would be to go with a different brand freewheel that uses a 14t small sprocket, then increase the size of the front sprocket to offset that gear so you would be able to stay up with the pedals. That option will likely requre a longer chain too.

And to prevent further confusion, stop calling it a cassette. It's a freewheel and the 2 parts are NOT interchangeable.

A chain that's completely shot can still "look" great. To judge, you need to purchase a very inexpensive tool (maybe 5.00) that will measure how far your chain has stretched. That stretch is generally the root cause of gears that have been ruined as you describe.

1700 miles to failure on a freewheel and chain that haven't received absolute premium care wouldn't be that unusual. -Al
Click to expand...
The term cassette is used for these parts by the manufacture. I do understand the confusion, because I've been confused trying to figure it out. Thanks for your input. I think the "part" Haystacks suggested is what I would try, except it has 10 gears.
 
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Lots of threads on this, with some strong user feelings on 11-34t vs 11-28t freewheel replacements. Clip the zip tie, pull apart the rear hub motor power cable at its chainstay junction (it's designed to be easy separation, in case of a flat tire - do not twist, align arrows), undo rear bolts as with any bike, remove rear wheel. You'll need a new 11-whatever freewheel and the correct Park Tools and a large adjustable wrench/spanner. If you have a Shimano (likely), it's the same tool for both. No chain whip necessary. Search. Vids on YouTube also.
 
goldconch said:
Lots of threads on this, with some strong user feelings on 11-34t vs 11-28t freewheel replacements. Clip the zip tie, pull apart the rear hub motor power cable at its chainstay junction (it's designed to be easy separation, in case of a flat tire - do not twist, align arrows), undo rear bolts as with any bike, remove rear wheel. You'll need a new 11-whatever freewheel and the correct Park Tools and a large adjustable wrench/spanner. If you have a Shimano (likely), it's the same tool for both. No chain whip necessary. Search. Vids on YouTube also.
Click to expand...
Do you have a listing for the Park Tools removal tool that fits over the cable plug and axle nut?

I believe you need a tool with a 21mm hole to allow the nut to pass thru.
 
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ExPatBrit said:
Do you have a listing for the Park Tools removal tool that fits over the cable plug and axle nut?

I believe you need a tool with a 21mm hole to allow the nut to pass thru.
Click to expand...
@ExPatBrit for replacement freewheels, there are a bunch that should fit from 11 to 34 tooth. The smallest 11 tooth will be your top speed gear (allowing comfortable cruise pedalling 25-28mph). The 28 or 34 is your full-analog hill climbing low gear. If your commute is mostly flat, a 28t "hill gear" is plenty in my opinion. If you live in hilly country, 34t might be a better choice. Don't forget the FR1.3 Park Tool. The hub power cable goes through the hollow of the tool, and the splines grip the inner threads of the freewheel. A chainwhip is not necessary, just use a rag to hold the old freewheel. Like pedals, the new freewheel will spin on and will tighten-up as you ride. Park Tool has a bunch of good DIY Youtubes. As @AHicks suggests, you may also want to get a new chain at the same time as an order placement, since they don't cost much, or you can wait and see. Chains can definitely benefit from a clean and re-lube if they are in rough shape. There are also excellent DIYs on rear derailleur adjustments.
 
I have already done this job on my 2019 rad Rover

ID of the FR1.3 Park Tool is too small, the cable and connector are not the only limitation.

It's the axle nut. The 18mm axle nut (wrench size flat to flat) cannot be removed without cutting/ dismantling the cable

At the widest point nut it is 21mm+. The nut , cable and plug need to slide unobstructed thru the tool so it is outside the work area.

I cut a slot in a similar tool and went from side , still difficult.

Bolton e-bikes sells a custom built tool that works.
 
I just changed my freewheel recently - after taking the plug off the end of the cable. Tire standing on bench, freewheel facing me, large wrench on freewheel tool, 1 swat from a big dead blow hammer broke it loose.

Noteworthy is the fact that though I did make a map of where each wire color went in the plastic end I had to remove, I forgot to map the top vs. bottom of the plug, which led to it being wired backwards (of course!). Worse, it took me over an hour to figure out why it wouldn't work when all was completed. Mistake finally figured out, I did it again with wires arranged right side up, but in a mirror image! o_O

In the end, patience persisted, but very clearly NOT one of my better days..... -Al
 
I think I'll wear mine down a little more!
Screenshot_20210419-070802_Chrome.jpg
 
ExPatBrit said:
I have already done this job on my 2019 rad Rover

ID of the FR1.3 Park Tool is too small, the cable and connector are not the only limitation.

It's the axle nut. The 18mm axle nut (wrench size flat to flat) cannot be removed without cutting/ dismantling the cable

At the widest point nut it is 21mm+. The nut , cable and plug need to slide unobstructed thru the tool so it is outside the work area.

I cut a slot in a similar tool and went from side , still difficult.

Bolton e-bikes sells a custom built tool that works.
Click to expand...
Apologies, @ExPatBrit I hadn't realised the 750 Bafang cable was so beefy. I guess that makes sense with the bigger motor. Looks like a $50 problem, or maybe someone on EBR could rent you the one they previously used, now gathering dust in their tool box? 10 minutes for $10? eBay advanced search?
 
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I did it. I got the DNP 11-28 FW and had all kinds of trouble getting the old one off. Bought the DNP tool, sliced it, and tried it in a vice and turning the wheel.. Broke my heavy marine industrial bench vice.. Took it to a few bike shops around Seattle, and they all basically said that because its a RPB nobody wants to touch it. So I took it down the Rad Power and get them to make the swap. It cost me $40 in labor and it was done in a day. Then I ordered the tool from Rad directly, its 'in transit' and itll probably be in transit for a long time. I also put a used set of Shimano MT200 Hyraulic brakes.
Ultimately the difference in the ride -most notricable on the flats- is huge. Math says its 28% better than stock, and it feels like it. Yesterday I spent about 4 hours doing errands all over the city and had more than half my battery capacity left and spent most of the day on PAS 3 and using gear 5 or 6 (which is not the same as the stock FW), but all in, its a great upgrade -which actually makes the bicycle part of my '18 Rad Mini, fuction like a bicycle..
 
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