LMT’D controller replacement pictures

[Fast n' Furious]

It is not the usual side to side motion but actually like a pogo stick feeling at high speeds.

Take it to a pro ...
... or get a new wheel*.
*In which case You also will need certain tools, a wheel truing stand and a garage to set your up shop in.
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To be honest, my crystal ball says it's your fork set to full zero dampening and the bumps are beating you up - rhythmically.
So, not reading at the entire thread I predict (1) It does not happen at low speeds and (2) the timing varies. (3) It feels like hop, hop, hop and gets out of sync, beating the hell out of you and causing you to have to slow down as the bumps coming through. (4) You drive "all out" roads, cruising at high speeds.
Solution: fill fork up with air and play with adjustments until you "get it". Boing, boing, boing
Rub a little oil on the exposed tubes.
Ltd's Asteria is a cheap, heavy fork and specs are at their site. I think it was 100psi. Your problem, you look.
So me, I'd purchase a nice quality rim shod w/ a puncture proof" quality tire, that I'll need regardless if the problem continues.
If it's the rim, I'm rolling - and better than ever. If it's not, I have a super setup.
.........................
Not the fork?
How much do you weigh? Did you take a header, come down on something, hard with the front wheel?
If you did and you weight more that 170 lbs, the rim is 'flat-spotted' toast.
Adjust as much as you will, the bike weighs 51lbs +. Drop 2201lbs from a foot ('4 quarters' for Gym Rats) concentrated in a 4 - 16 square inch area. Get it? Now think whatever velocity you were going on top of that.
Mass X Velocity = Force.
TLippy's right. Why waste your time (at $.50 an hour) when a pro could tell you what's up free, you pay him sixty rat-ass-dollars ('scuse my French) and it gets done?
Maybe use your stimulus check, put a few people to work.
...............................................
Last thoughts: If you're flying (downhill esp) on roads at 25+ Mph a lot, you need rims that can take those bumps (Shock adjustments are important too). Quit trying to fix what breaks and get something that won't, or write it off to consequences of your style and replace as broken.
You can Buy a FOX 34 E bike front end (900 - $1300) and HD rims (cheap).
F n' F

 

[Fast n' Furious]

It is not the usual side to side motion but actually like a pogo stick feeling at high speeds.

What "Usual side motion"?
I go 35mph and never have any "usual" weirdness.

 

[GenXrider]

I've asked them for a build sheet or any proof. None has been presented.

I think that's not uncommon for companies to not jump to providing inside deal and company data when they already provide the specs clearly on their website. Heck, most companies probably wouldn't even respond to your queries. At least Ride1Up's owner responded to let you know you were getting incorrect info elsewhere. Most would have never given you the time of day.

Motor Types and Motor Wattage Ratings

Types of Ebike Motors We currently offer ebikes with geared hub motors in the rear wheel or bottom bracket. This will give you an overview of geared hub motors and how they work in our various models. We will also cover 2 other common types of ...

support.ride1up.com

500W Shengyi Geared Hub-Motor (350W nominal) for the Roadster V2

750W Shengyi Geared Hub-Motor (500W nominal, 880W peak) for the CORE-5, 500 Series, 700 Series

750W MXUS Geared Hub-Motor (750W nominal, 1000W peak) for the LMT'd

350W Brose German Made TF Sprinter Mid-Drive Motor for the Prodigy

 

[krdugger]

Well, having gone the extra mile on controller research, I conclude we have a 500w/ 750w motor and the controller is plenty of amps.
The MXUS factory verified this. The XF19C motor has 68nm torque. If you have that motor, shoving 1000watts down it's gullet won't change that - much - without the motor, and apparently the controller as well acting erratic.
I set the controller at the full 22amp limit (1056watts) and still cannot pull 1000watts on my display.
Does anyone register over 1000watts?
My understanding is typically, the motor will pull current until overload triggering the software algorithm (that converts that value to anticipated heat) and cutting out. Our real problem is the software, after these 'artificial' cut offs is returning the power erratically.
Pulling 1200watts with a 750/ 1000watt motor: Looks to me (forums) like 20%wattage pull over the stated motor's limit is not uncommon, meaning a 500 x 750watt motor = 850ish watts capable.
I have seen 860watts, but even if this motor could be/ is set up to override to +900watts, that's not the 1200watts a 1000watt peak motor should pull and it WILL RESULT IN OVERLOAD/ resetting/ cut out and problems.
R1U's position is that MXUS Corp gave me bad info. They have a special motor, and the Model Number information is incorrect.
I've asked them for a build sheet or any proof. None has been presented.
Does anyone register over 1000watts?
Seeking to find I'm incorrect, the evidence keeps slapping me to my senses. When everything else fails, what's left is correct.

Say it ain't so?

Fn'F

The torque rating of 100nm is what we get from mxus. I think most companies wattage and even torque claims are somewhat exaggerated. The manufacturers at least. I have brose motors that claim 90nm of torque but certainly do not feel like it.

Regarding wattage, Rad, juiced, and many others all claim certain ratings that don't really mean much. Here's a good article for further reading -https://ebikes.ca/learn/power-ratings.html

 

[Fast n' Furious]

Thank you. That settles it in my mind. I apologize for any offense taken.
You must be glad to learn MXUS' keeping their word. That sales rep was ready to strangle me because I kept asking. lol
Yes, motor ratings are oft exaggerated, but to be honest, privately I've kept observing "if this is 68nm, '100nm' must be too much".
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Someone pointed out that repetitive issues with failing controllers could be service techs. Wiring is another - notorious - possibility.
When I installed a twist throttle - highly recommended - I noticed the aftermarket throttle's wiring was one or two sizes larger and the plugs were 'meatier' - best I can describe. Worked great for a week, then my speedo and trip indicator failed.
Since, it's worked intermittently, registering 1/10th actual speed, 1/20th, even once returning to normal for 4 - 5 miles.
Soon, I'll take it all back apart and inspect the plugs. Exp building PC's, I know about "plug gremlins".
Can't recommend getting caught in rainstorms, but that twist throttle someone from your company suggested to me (on right) is an awesome improvement. Plus, the grips are a bit shorter - so that mirror really does work.

Fn'F

 

[Fast n' Furious]

The torque rating of 100nm is what we get from mxus. I think most companies wattage and even torque claims are somewhat exaggerated. The manufacturers at least. I have brose motors that claim 90nm of torque but certainly do not feel like it.

Regarding wattage, Rad, juiced, and many others all claim certain ratings that don't really mean much. Here's a good article for further reading -https://ebikes.ca/learn/power-ratings.html

To any prospective consumer (My take 2500 brutal miles later): After I studied, understood and got the settings correct, the Ltd's torque curve and power in general has proven perfect.
I don't see needing more power on this machine.
This is 'right now' on tap (possibly even) 'street legal' power (can't explain why it passes all those other e-bikes and busses, without trying).
Perhaps the Ltd's 58lb starting weight cinches the play - with others 'almost as powerful' weighing 75 pounds - and is the big clue to performance expectations that satisfy.
The acceleration is a blast.
My only regret is I lost time researching for 6 months and didn't buy.
No competition pricewise. Look closely and you'll see.

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To Kevin: I see you have torque arms now .

You simply MUST sell me a set for being the proverbial 'crash dummy' ?


Fn'F

 

[LAMike240]

FnF,

Have you been able to purchase a set of torque arms from R1U?

Can you post your settings for the controller setup please?

Thank you,

 

[Fast n' Furious]

Belated reply, what is and what's coming in my Ltd custom improvements.
I asked and R1U provided a set of arms. They should be fine to prevent damage and are 1/4 the weight of my stuff.
Again, Ride1Up's worked with me on every issue I raise - a confessed 'bad apple' that stresses limits. Never have they told me "hey, you're on your own".
An inexpensive twistgrip throttle provides a jolt of around 900watts, and TS (1 - 3 settings) work perfectly.
Now over 4000miles - I've tried various settings.
The stock "reset" > change controller to 20amps > w/ 0, 1, 2, 3 PAS at 02 sensitivity works great.
Never once have I had an overheat cut-out (excepting errata attributed to 'crushed wire syndrome'. See below).
Controller, roughly 20A = 960W @48v; 1040W @52.
For first 5 miles of charge, I show +53Volt - possible 1160Watt Peak jolt - motor acts slightly erratic, BIG POWER. I think it's a bit too much Voltage.
Next 10 miles, bike flies; smooth; 'cackling' a different tune.
The following 5 - 10 miles (always more than 40% charge left for me), bike now in 48V mode there is power loss. Now the bike acts like a normal 500Watt machine and has 50 - 60Nm torque.
'20A' setting allows full potential when you call on it - controller being rated @20A nominal x 22A peak and 22A @48v being 1056Watts

I've located a problem - damage to wires/ cords from the fork turning. Mentioned before and now 100% conformed, wires are being crushed and stretched when bundled with the shift/ brake cables, through the frame's bottom hole.
The soft outer sheath is little help. That is the fail point.
The symptoms: various - intermittent - combinations of erratic torque sensor/ throttle/ power cut off/ even display function behavior.
Cutting out on hills? A big symptom.
Don't get me wrong. The MXUS is twitchy, but tear downs revealed ever 'increasing' failure was accompanied by 2/3 of communicator wires, crushed or severed in various spots. Splicing in new cable, problems were gone.
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Thinking a separate hard sheath over just the wires at the frame juncture hole, then bundling the whole thing into one set would fix the cause (abrasion/ crush damage), I'm still working on the permanent fix that won't cause 'stretch damage' as the fork turns - using the stiff cable to limits the stretch max.
After finding crush damage to my displays wires (and as intended because of the small crack it had from day 1), I purchased a new display from R1U - but it came with a bafang higo plug (?). If I cut it and use our MXUS type, will it be a restricted 700 or 500 display? Bye, bye '31mph limit"? No more '22Amps'?
I'm awaiting answers right now, then it's off to finishing the project. Meanwhile, I've replaced that length of wires (again), sheathed in a Teflon tube and bike is back to breathing fire - but that stretch of tube needs to contain the wires loosely inside to eliminate stretch fails, while also being impervious to the hard cables grinding against it and the hard frame. That means the 'wire protector sheath' should be installed before the wires are set in the plugs, or they must all (throttle/ display) be cut and reattached. A pain for most.
Obviously, without replacing the wires, this fix is useless for present damage symptoms.
It's cheaper and a big improvement to buy a twistgrip throttle that's pre-wired and splice in (using a JST connecter kit from GRIN) appropriate wire - or as I did, buy a new display.
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I dumped the stock bars.
Researching for my other build in the works, I like the 'Jones Bars', so I tried the 'butted' 2.5"s because they were 100 bucks. Next day they were 140 bucks. Ouch !!!
Installed, really great on this machine - my neck pain is gone, the straight angles and the extra bar space completely cleaned up my cockpit.
Regardless of riding position (except 'deeply tucked'), even standing - these bars are far superior to stock.
Having tried various angles of sweep, a bit high for my shorter legs, but still crazy comfortable.
I see them as an heirloom I can put on GF's build The butted are stronger and lighter, but needlessly more expensive for our application.
Now I'm going w/ the flat H Bars (in 660mm). Finally found a good local shop to get my parts. Just got a text and they're in.
I'll be posting photos on the Ltd - in the 2.5" (silver) bars and in the lower (black) flat bars for interested Ltd owners.
Loving the bike.