Lights compatible with KT controller

[mohammed]

Hi all,

I’m in the process of installing a KT-22a controller on my Aventon LEVEL and I'm looking to install some lights.

The controller has a output for lights (2 pin) and have been looking around for some as I want them to be powered by the battery, I can’t really find anything but to be honest I don’t know much about this.

Has anyone got experience with compatible lights?

 

[harryS]

KT controllers are well regarded, but I've never seen much praise for the lighting. The KT controller light circuit is often installed on a little daughterboard so that when it blows up, the bike functions are unaffected. I never use the light connectors.

Unless your lights run off a low current 5V USB, they will probably blow up the circuit. If you go out and buy a circuit that runs the lights off battery with on/off controlled by the controller, then I think the KT light output will be reliable.

 

[w3curtis]

I have lights connected to the KT Controller on my Lextric XP. Works real well. See here.

 

[AHicks]

I have lights connected to the KT Controller on my Lextric XP. Works real well. See here.

It would appear that you are not using the up arrow to turn your light on or off? That's the circuit @Mohammad and @Harry and talking about. Not all KT controllers have the feature. Regarding the ones that do have the option, I'm with @harryS. That circuit isn't protected at all, and because it has a very low output, is very easily blown. I think it's rated output is something like .25a. That's enough for a very low power marker led, but nothing capable of lighting your way.

The available power here is best used to turn a relay on and off, that's used to switch a much heavier circuit, capable of powering a decent headlight.

Or use a different source for you headlight power like you have done, that doesn't use the KT circuit. Use a handlebar mounted switch instead of using the up arrow.

 

[w3curtis]

It would appear that you are not using the up arrow to turn your light on or off? That's the circuit @Mohammad and @Harry and talking about. Not all KT controllers have the feature. Regarding the ones that do have the option, I'm with @harryS. That circuit isn't protected at all, and because it has a very low output, is very easily blown. I think it's rated output is something like .25a. That's enough for a very low power marker led, but nothing capable of lighting your way.

The available power here is best used to turn a relay on and off, that's used to switch a much heavier circuit, capable of powering a decent headlight.

Or use a different source for you headlight power like you have done, that doesn't use the KT circuit. Use a handlebar mounted switch instead of using the up arrow.

Actually I AM! I am using the standard KT controller light output. This is why I have inserted the 1amp fuse to prevent the light/horn from pulling too much current. After power on, I use the UP arrow to turn on the light, I can then turn them off/on via the light/horn switch. The KT light output puts out battery voltage. 48 volts at less than 1 amp is more than enough to power a light.

 

[w3curtis]

48 volts x .25 amp is 12 watts.
You can get very good lighting from an LED consuming 12 watts.
But I’ve been told that the limit for the KT lighting circuit is 1 amp or 48 watts.
I’m not sure if that 1 amp is for both front and rear as my KT controller has outputs for both but as I have this setup running, I don’t have to speculate. IT WORKS!
Lastly, the light/horn at the link I provide can operate from 12 to 72 volts. It works fine with my KT controller using only the standard KT headlight output.

 

[AHicks]

In your diagrams, you're calling the optional KT "light wire" a USB input. Is that correct? I don't know that it's identified like that anywhere. That's where I was loosing you. I thought maybe you were using the USB port provided in a lot of the displays. I have no idea of how much power that's able to provide, or even if it's drawing from the same circuit the light wire is on.

If able to use the "up" arrow to switch the lights, why the handlebar mounted switch shown in the pic and diagrams? If using the KT light wire as a source, that switch isn't even going to get power unless the KT switch is on.

As far as available power from the KT "light" wire, here's a note from the add in the KT link you provided-

A Light / Lamp for our KT controller ,it must be about 70 mA ( less than 100 mA )or the controller will be damaged. I suggest you do not use the front and rear lights at the same time.

100ma=.1a

Point being, that 1a fuse is really pushing it (by a factor of 10). Personally, I would use one maybe closer to .05a and with the time it takes to blow one of those, a .05a fuse may even be too heavy. The wiring/circuits on the board inside the controller are REALLY tiny. Hate to see you learn that the hard way.
Then, idea of a buzzer on this circuit seems really scary to me, but I have no idea what something like that might actually pull....

If yours is working, great, I'm happy for you. -Al

 

[w3curtis]

..

A Light / Lamp for our KT controller ,it must be about 70 mA ( less than 100 mA )or the controller will be damaged. I suggest you do not use the front and rear lights at the same time.

Hmm, I guess I never noticed (paid attention) to that verbiage from the KT controller. That being said, since I always have my lights on, even in the daytime, I’ve run the headlight, taillight, USB charging for my phone and the horn on this circuit with no damage to the controller. I did this first with the stock Lectric controller and now with the KT controller. But since the new KT LCD8S display has its own USB port for phone charging, I’m only running the front light/horn and rear light through this circuit. Still, been working real well for a while now with no ill effects to the controller. I guess I should find out how much power the light/horn actually pulls.

 

[AHicks]

When/if this light circuit does let go, I'm sure it's won't be that critical. You just loose the function of switching the light with the "up" button. As mentioned picking up power to run your circuit not that difficult - and very likely a LOT sturdier....