Known Issues & Problems with Wallke Products + Help, Solutions & Fixes

[Slick Silver]

I responded by basically telling them that they can either (1) find what part on my bike is defective and send me a new one, or (2) we can start a return process. If they don't help us on one of those two fronts, I told them we'll be leaving comments on everything Wallke X3 about how we got ripped off and their reputation will be tarnished... which as a relatively new company, would be really bad for them. Its really sad that we have to go there with companies to get them to do the right thing... but at the same time as a consumer it really feels like we're being preyed upon, paying thousands of dollars for a product that does not work as advertised.

 

[johnwebike]

Same canned answer given to me about the same issues. Seems hardly fair right? I havent seen a complaint ever about controller overload... Also, assuming the non regen design change is legit and not a mistake or to save the manufacturer money, then shouldnt it have been a complete redesign so the speedometer and the odometer, and speed calculation all work?? Doesnt make sense.

 

[johnwebike]

I responded by basically telling them that they can either (1) find what part on my bike is defective and send me a new one, or (2) we can start a return process. If they don't help us on one of those two fronts, I told them we'll be leaving comments on everything Wallke X3 about how we got ripped off and their reputation will be tarnished... which as a relatively new company, would be really bad for them. Its really sad that we have to go there with companies to get them to do the right thing... but at the same time as a consumer it really feels like we're being preyed upon, paying thousands of dollars for a product that does not work as advertised.

I agree with your reply. I left a message on a youtube review site that has a review, followed by a "time tested review", asking him to amend their review where they comment on the regen. I asked they put a new ending on their "review" to point out that WALLKE is stiffing customers and basically telling them, get used to it. Will see if the reviewer adds to his video.
If he doesn't, and maybe even if he does fix the review to reflect reality, we should each post a video of our issues with Wallkes "response" to our problems.

 

[Slick Silver]

Yes, exactly. Whether or not it was a redesign or they simply ran out of stock motors, when they swapped the motor then they should have also swapped controllers to match so at least our speedo's would work. At the BARE MINIMUM there should have been a post on the product page notifying that the motor had been swapped for a less powerful one & that the regen feature had been removed so consumers would know what they were buying. This is a textbook case of false advertisement, and I have no intentions of letting it ride (pun intended ). They will have to make this right for us or face the consequences of having many dissatisfied customers.

 

[Slick Silver]

I will give Wallke one more chance to give a reasonable response for their mistake. If they do not have something helpful to say by tomorrow, I will be joining you in leaving comments on every review of this bike about our experience with the product & company. I will also be contacting Paypal about the fraudulent sale, to see if they can force a return process or do anything else since they handled the transaction.

 

[johnwebike]

I will give Wallke one more chance to give a reasonable response for their mistake. If they do not have something helpful to say by tomorrow, I will be joining you in leaving comments on every review of this bike about our experience with the product & company. I will also be contacting Paypal about the fraudulent sale, to see if they can force a return process or do anything else since they handled the transaction.

I have heard from someone in here that the speedo can be fixed by using a speed sensor on a wheel instead of using the motor. The monotone script reading review they referenced to have you watch was interesting. That guy "reviewing" is off his rocker if he thinks its such a common issue for the speedo to drop out, that its not mentioned in any reviews! What a shill. Keep us informed, I sent a letter yesterday mentioning fradulent sale and asked for return procedures if they cant fix my bike. Maybe if the (4 of us so far on here?) do the same, they may be compelled to fix our bikes. You are right, we shouldnt have to go this far, but if its necessary, then thats what it takes now days.

 

[johnwebike]

I responded by basically telling them that they can either (1) find what part on my bike is defective and send me a new one, or (2) we can start a return process. If they don't help us on one of those two fronts, I told them we'll be leaving comments on everything Wallke X3 about how we got ripped off and their reputation will be tarnished... which as a relatively new company, would be really bad for them. Its really sad that we have to go there with companies to get them to do the right thing... but at the same time as a consumer it really feels like we're being preyed upon, paying thousands of dollars for a product that does not work as advertised.

This information may come in handy in dealing with companies that commit fraudulent transactions.

Bureau of Consumer Protection

The FTC’s Bureau of Consumer Protection stops unfair, deceptive and fraudulent business practices by collecting reports from consumers and conducting investigations, suing companies and people that

www.ftc.gov

 

[OscarBrock]

This might be an issue that some owners might not experience but, if your rear brake line runs underneath the rear suspension linkage, watch the line as the suspension pivots. My line developed a leak at a point where the suspension pivots and the line flexed in a wierd way. Wallke is sending me a new brake assembly but I am concerned this might happen again so I am thinking of ways to lessen the flex. You can see the crease in the picture. It seems the newer X3 Pro's run the brake line above the linkage and there is no flex.

I am also new to Hydraulic Bike brakes and I cannot figure out what kind of bleed kit and oil to use. Anyone have Amazon links to what kits and oil to use?

 

[johnwebike]

This might be an issue that some owners might not experience but, if your rear brake line runs underneath the rear suspension linkage, watch the line as the suspension pivots. My line developed a leak at a point where the suspension pivots and the line flexed in a wierd way. Wallke is sending me a new brake assembly but I am concerned this might happen again so I am thinking of ways to lessen the flex. You can see the crease in the picture. It seems the newer X3 Pro's run the brake line above the linkage and there is no flex.

I am also new to Hydraulic Bike brakes and I cannot figure out what kind of bleed kit and oil to use. Anyone have Amazon links to what kits and oil to use?

View attachment 90166

Thanks for the heads up!
I found this video to be very helpful, as well as her brake centering video to stop brake rubbing.

 

[ryukenden73]

This might be an issue that some owners might not experience but, if your rear brake line runs underneath the rear suspension linkage, watch the line as the suspension pivots. My line developed a leak at a point where the suspension pivots and the line flexed in a wierd way. Wallke is sending me a new brake assembly but I am concerned this might happen again so I am thinking of ways to lessen the flex. You can see the crease in the picture. It seems the newer X3 Pro's run the brake line above the linkage and there is no flex.

I am also new to Hydraulic Bike brakes and I cannot figure out what kind of bleed kit and oil to use. Anyone have Amazon links to what kits and oil to use?

can you route the brake lines above the suspension pivot?

 

[OscarBrock]

Installed new rear brakes (thank you Wallke for sending them quickly - on my shipping dime) and rerouted the rear brake cable over the suspension linkage. Wrapped the cable with plastic tubing to help protect it and prevent the line from kinking. I think it will work. Not as pretty as before but secure.

 

[OscarBrock]

This feels too soon to be posting again... Check those linkage bolts on your rear suspension OFTEN! I hadnt recently and the picture below is the result - bolt fell out and the linkage rod bent and I had to cut it to get it free (top.) I think my hardware Frankenstein fix will work (center) but my bike is looking less and less cool with all these Mickey Mouse fixes. Build quality is really giving me pause or, I need a more durable bike for the type of riding I'm doing (mostly off road on reasonably tough terrain - or... maybe I can lose a little weight to help out...)

I do wonder if the ebike industry needs to look at the motorcycle rear suspension solution (swingarm and shock) and not to the bicycle industry (incredibly over-engineered multiple pivot point linkage systems) These E-bikes are way heavier and they go much faster (at least for me) so the stresses are different than on a pedal bicycle. I worry about all these pivot points and it bore out today and a also few weeks ago when my break line busted because of same crazy pivot points! I have my eye on the Splach Patriot Pro for a number of reasons but especially because the rear suspension is much simpler and more motorcycle than bicycle...

 

[ryukenden73]

This feels too soon to be posting again... Check those linkage bolts on your rear suspension OFTEN! I hadnt recently and the picture below is the result - bolt fell out and the linkage rod bent and I had to cut it to get it free (top.) I think my hardware Frankenstein fix will work (center) but my bike is looking less and less cool with all these Mickey Mouse fixes. Build quality is really giving me pause or, I need a more durable bike for the type of riding I'm doing (mostly off road on reasonably tough terrain - or... maybe I can lose a little weight to help out...)

I do wonder if the ebike industry needs to look at the motorcycle rear suspension solution (swingarm and shock) and not to the bicycle industry (incredibly over-engineered multiple pivot point linkage systems) These E-bikes are way heavier and they go much faster (at least for me) so the stresses are different than on a pedal bicycle. I worry about all these pivot points and it bore out today and a also few weeks ago when my break line busted because of same crazy pivot points! I have my eye on the Splach Patriot Pro for a number of reasons but especially because the rear suspension is much simpler and more motorcycle than bicycle...

View attachment 90873

yes. Those bolts get loose after riding. I tighten them up before heading out. also, check your rear hub bolts, they tend to loosen up as well.

 

[OscarBrock]

yes. Those bolts get loose after riding. I tighten them up before heading out. also, check your rear hub bolts, they tend to loosen up as well.

Just checked - Hub bolts still tight - Thank you!

 

[MtnScramble]

Hello all, Hoping that it is okay for me to revive this thread. I am stalled in assembly of an X3 Max. The front wheel is also powered on this version.

Has anyone here performed this assembly?

I do not have pictures with me right now so I am attempting to write the description. I apologize and appreciate any who are able to follow this.

The instructions in the manual and the video online indicate to use a flat washer inside the forks on both sides of the hub motor. My unit only came with one flat washer on the control wire side. I believe that the center shaft on this hub motor is larger than standard, The instructions say to use a 15mm wrench yet with this a 17mm is required. This is needed because the shaft has been hollowed out part way to be like a pocket screw to allow the wire set to settle into it. The wires from the motor about 1.5 inches out has a tightly coiled spring around it to protect the wires.

If I place the flat washer on the inside of the fork, the wire set ends up smashed onto that washer then trying to lay back down into the manufactured groove for it held down by what Wallke termed the anti-rotation washer. The shaft is not only grooved for the wire set, it is also milled on two sides allowing the "U" shaped anti-rotational washer to hold it into place. The "u" extends past the shaft with an open area where the wire set fits in and then a top cap to keep the wire set in place.

While trying to follow the instructions, I think I would risk damaging the control wire set forcing it over the flat washer then back into the anti-rotation washer. Additionally when I test fitted like this, the rotor seemed to be binding in the caliper.

I placed the washer on the outside of the fork and the whole installation seemed better. The rotor turned properly in the caliper, The control wires routed properly in a way that looked neutral and protected....

Do I ignore the manual and set it up the way that everything in me says is correct? I emailed Wallke with no response as of this time. What do you here think?

 

[MtnScramble]

After over a week not hearing from Wallke, I re-sent the message adding questions about the serial numbers on my unit. I did get a reply including this about my decision to not have the washer on the inside:

"I then assembled the unit with the flat washer on the outside of the forks which eliminated both problems above. "
Well done! We have streamlined the installment, but the manual failed to get updated.

Here is the way that I assembled it.

 

[Agesil]

I have the h6 max and have blown two controllers does anyone know of a better brand of controller i can use even if it is an ome the one thing i can think of getting is a mid drive