Known Issues & Problems with Rad Power Products + Help, Solutions & Fixes
- Thread starter Ann M.
- Start date
Hegenderfer
New Member
I have a Radwagon and love it! 26 miles a day and getting stronger! 340 miles so far. Ok, my issue. I accidentally pulled the battery out without turning it off first. After work I noticed that the miles are no longer counting and my speed shows zero. Any ideas?
The miles and speed issues sound like what I experienced, when something in the Rover hub motor went bad. Rad replaced the motor (with new wheel & tire); it was a simple drop in switch when it arrived here. That fixed the problems. I'm not sure about the temporal connection to taking the battery out -- mine just happened while out riding. The battery removal might just be a coincidence.
mrgold35
Well-Known Member
I've had issues with my front or rear brakes rubbing at the time of purchase. I did try using an adjustable wrench to try and true everything up. Turned out the spokes were not TQ evenly around the wheels causing everything to flex enough to cause the brakes to rub. Re-TQ all the spokes corrected the issue for me. I ended up needed a replacement rear hub motor for one of my bikes. Forgot to double-check the spokes and the same issue of brake rub with the additional issue of a clicking noise as the wheel turned. Re-TQ all spokes and both issue went away. Some spokes took 2-4 360 degree turns to TQ. About 1/3 of the spokes needed to be TQ the same all around.
Barkme Wolf
Active Member
RadWagon 9000miles- 40 mile daily rider. Two cassettes, two chain replacements (the chain is long so it takes two), one brake pad change, shifter upgrades, balloon tire on rear, new fenders (kept kicking the original front fender out of alignment) and total spoke replacement on rear wheel. Spokes were going fast but once I switched to Sapim Strong- no problems (70 cents each). The RW eats cassettes and chains. No motor or electrical problems yet.
cayjak
Member
This may have already been mentioned, but I searched and could not find it. When riding your RadMini, do you get a "creaking" noise from the area of your handlebars? Ours was making that irritating noise, so I investigated. I found it was coming from the handlebar stem (the tube that slides up and down when you adjust the height of the handlebars). There is a little free play in the stem, and as you ride it moves back and forth slightly. To stop the noise, I unlocked the clamp and pulled the stem up as far as I could without stressing the control cables. Then I applied a thin coat of PolyLube grease to the stem, and slid it back down to the lowest position, which is where I like it. Locked the clamp, and VOILA! no more creak. Have to wait and see if this is a permanent fix, but for now it is working great.
https://www.amazon.com/Park-Tool-PPL-1-PolyLube-Lubricant/dp/B002MQYQ2S
https://www.amazon.com/Park-Tool-PPL-1-PolyLube-Lubricant/dp/B002MQYQ2S
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As someone new to biking, but relatively handy (I do a lot of my own automotive and home repair work) - even watching videos, it took me a LOT of fiddling around to get the brakes so they didn't rub.
Someone else mentioned using a business card - could you give more detail on that? Spacing alignment?
I had to detail-feel around the inside of my tire twice before I found a little thorn protruding inside. I also upgraded to thicker tubes (from REI).
Does anyone know where to get a better battery pack plug/cover? The little rubber thing that is supposed to go in the charge port. It has been annoying to get re-seated since Day 1, and it has gotten worse over time.
I don,t know about cable brakes but on hydraulic brakes the business card is inserted when the wheel is removed to keep the pads apart if the brake handle is squeezed accidentally. Some people do this but I know my son does not with his bike.
I have done the business card thing on another bike equipped with Avid BB5s. This article explains it well, though the orignal pictures are now missing:
http://www.the-house.com/portal/how-to-adjust-avid-bb5-disc-brakes/
http://www.the-house.com/portal/how-to-adjust-avid-bb5-disc-brakes/
The business card adjustment method works fine.. There are several other steps you need to take to make your BB5 squeak and rub free.
1. Buy new pads, organic pads if you can.. Disco Engineering makes many styles and they have worked fine for me.
2. clean the discs with mild clean and Scotch Brite scour pads.. fine wet sandpaper works also.
3. Rough up the new pads with scotch brite
4. install and adjust the pads using the instructions Drew provided.
5. This is most important, bedding the new pads
5a. verify the brakes are tight against the disc, then ride the bike to max speed and brake HARD with only ONE brake.. Repeat this 5x. Don't flip the bike!
5b. repeat on the other brake.
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Barry S
Well-Known Member
Can you post a link for the tubes?
ben-ben
New Member
I agree plug is a pain to install since new. I found that a little lube helps slide in and actually stays in place. Would like to see an upgraded plug.
mrgold35
Well-Known Member
I had to replace my front brake cable. I was having an issue with the brake handle not returning to proper position when released unless I pushed it with my hand. The motor cutoff would sometimes engage if I didn't push up the brake handle (PAS and throttle wouldn't work). I even saw a error code 25 (brake failed) in the display once.
Everything looked A-OK; but, I did notice a jumbo of brake cable stuffed inside the brake handle. My thinking was the loose brake cables was acting like a spring engaging the motor cut-off. It only took a less than 20-30 minutes to replace and test the new cable.
All that loose brake cable was stuffed inside about 1 1/2 inches of the brake handle.
Everything looked A-OK; but, I did notice a jumbo of brake cable stuffed inside the brake handle. My thinking was the loose brake cables was acting like a spring engaging the motor cut-off. It only took a less than 20-30 minutes to replace and test the new cable.
All that loose brake cable was stuffed inside about 1 1/2 inches of the brake handle.
Rakku
Active Member
Yep I did, at least I thought I did.
My issues sounded like it was coming from the front wheel when instead, it came from somewhere around the crankset/front casette.
Oiled everything down there, literally everything.
Pedals, casette, cranks, chain etc.
Clicking sounds gone.
Now my rear wheel rubs somewhere though, hope it rubs only on the fender since I pumped it up to 1,5 bars/22 psi.
Already took the front fender off, since it was so wobbly and sometimes even caught on the tire while taking jumps.
Was going to take off the rear fender anyways, those things are pretty heavy and I feel without the front fender my bike feels way more lively, since there is less mass to manuever on the front wheel.
Edit:
I lied, clicking noise from the front still not gone, I suspect its the cables somewhere banging on or inside the frame, there is no other explanation left.
Had some weird noises from the back too, thought it was the cable from the brake lights which is routed inside the rear fender.
It had to do with it (since the cable was pushed in too much and was rubbing on the tire), but I finally found the issue after reading here.
I have loose spokes on the rear wheel, that causes those sounds, at least I hope so.
Have to get it into a bike shop since I have no clue on how to true a wheel.
Btw, loose spokes are apparently a common issue with these bikes, is it a good idea to put blue threadlocker on the spokes to counter them getting loose?
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mrgold35
Well-Known Member
Developed another strange issue with one of my 2016 Radrovers a few weeks ago. The Radrover LCD stopped displaying odometer/trip computer data when riding. It just shows all zeros for mph, trip data, and overall mileage doesn't change. All other functions on the LCD screen works fine (backlight, PAS levels, watt meter, throttle, speed motor cut-of, brake motor cut-off). Trouble-shot with Rad Tech support and with my other Rad by switching out parts and it looks like the issues is with the rear wheel sensor that sends mph/trip data. Weird because the 20 mph motor cut-off still works fine?
It is about $350 for new rear wheel; but, decided to go with the wireless CatEye Padrone+ cycle computer instead. The Padrone+ works fine coasting or with throttle; but, goes to straight zeros every time I use PAS to pedal. Something about PAS interferes with the wireless signal of the cycle computer that doesn't happen in throttle mode? I even removed the Padrone+ from the handlebar holder and place next the magnet/sensor on front tire while riding and it still cut-out in PAS. Returning wireless cycle computer for a wired Enkeeo USB rechargeable bike computer for $17 to see if that works better.
It is about $350 for new rear wheel; but, decided to go with the wireless CatEye Padrone+ cycle computer instead. The Padrone+ works fine coasting or with throttle; but, goes to straight zeros every time I use PAS to pedal. Something about PAS interferes with the wireless signal of the cycle computer that doesn't happen in throttle mode? I even removed the Padrone+ from the handlebar holder and place next the magnet/sensor on front tire while riding and it still cut-out in PAS. Returning wireless cycle computer for a wired Enkeeo USB rechargeable bike computer for $17 to see if that works better.
Hello everyone,
Just wanted to find out if anyone is using the usb port under the display? On my 2018 RadRover it will not charge my IPhone. I emailed into support and they told me that it only puts out 0.25 volts so it would not do anything like charge a phone. I am thinking to my self why would you have a usb port if you can't use it for accessories.
Just wanted to find out if anyone is using the usb port under the display? On my 2018 RadRover it will not charge my IPhone. I emailed into support and they told me that it only puts out 0.25 volts so it would not do anything like charge a phone. I am thinking to my self why would you have a usb port if you can't use it for accessories.
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