Known Issues & Problems with Rad Power Products + Help, Solutions & Fixes

[BKing]

If you’ve been getting those high wattage readings in PAS 1 or is it called P1 on yours, there is a major problem.

 

[nitwitticism]

@BKing, yes, that is entirely correct: those are the readings on PAS1.

If that's problematic, the only thing that I think left to address is my wiring harness, which I did feel I may have pinched a pin on the downtube electrical cable connector upon first installing the 32a controller. I have a replacement I can install this weekend. But that was an edge case in my mind since the bike's electrical is functional in all respects and I assumed this was a setting issue relating to an overpowered controller and an battery with a conservative BMS cut-out.

It couldn't be a battery fuse that's blown that's to blame?

 

[BKing]

No, usually just a charging fuse and an output fuse.

 

[AHicks]

OK, so now that you seem to have your supply of power in order, one last point remains. The motor. Stuffing 1000w into a 500w motor for any length of time is going to result in some seriously bad smelling smoke coming from the motor or possibly the wiring leading to it. You HAVE to keep this in mind when you have this sort of potential! The motor will handle the power just fine, as long as it gets it in small doses and it's allowed time to cool between those doses.

IF it were capable of running 1000w continuously/full time, it would be rated for 1000w!

 

[nitwitticism]

@AHicks I really appreciate the context and education on this, keep it up so long as you have the patience and tolerance for it! So I've been starting to touch the side of the controller (not the skid plate that holds it in on this and some other Rad bike models) after these test rides and there's been no heat whatsoever. Maybe that's because these rides have been incredibly short to date due to the crazy high-wattage readings triggering the BMS. But it wasn't hot after climbing the full hill (~3-4m) and then going for another 15m with lighter power. Since I never touch-sensed for heat with the stock controller, I don't know what's normal in terms of heat levels, but it's something I plan to pay close attention to going forward, so thanks for sharing these fundamentals about the misfit between controller and motor.

Is there any chance these wattage readings are simply incorrect? I take it that's not possible since we've controlled for PSI and such, but I do wonder given the lack of heat. Based on what you've said earlier (https://electricbikereview.com/foru...oducts-help-solutions-fixes.13196/post-463444), I should fine-tune a target wattage for PAS1 and then the PAS2, etc, and I wonder how that could or would work with these super-high numbers I'm clocking seemingly with very minimal throttle.

 

[AHicks]

As you've seen with your temperature checks, the controller isn't even breathing hard handling what you're asking from it. Thats a GOOD thing. That's why you went with a 35a controller, so there would be no worry about it!

Anything is possible, but my bet is the amperage readings you are seeing are "close enough".

Trimming the PAS level power is about the power delivered while cruising around in PAS 1. If you aren't doing that often, the ability to "trim" is a moot point.

 

[nitwitticism]

LOL, yes. So it's the motor I should be checking, I take it. Thank you.

I do wonder if an engine upgrade is ultimately the place I'll end up in being serious about making my (hilly) commute a sustainable premise, and to just get general parity across controller, battery, and motor.

 

[AHicks]

That controller is capable of out gunning about any motor available. Still, going to something like Bolton's 750 mod might be a good plan when it comes to parity....

 

[SMINVT]

anyone have a clicking sounds in the front wheel ?

I know this is an old post to be replying to but my answer might help somone. Clicking from the front wheel might be spokes which wouldn't be good but a fractured ball bearing would be much worse. Balls can break and pie shaped pieces get wedged under the adjacent balls and the click is them getting squirted out from under the rolling ball. It doesn't take much of this to damage the hub race and catastrophic failure is possible. So if you hear clicking from your front wheel, don't ride it til you have inspected the bearings. On a Rad front wheel it's pretty easy to do this yourself. All you need is two 17mm wrenches and a 15mm cone wrench. A screwdriver, some grease and rags and maybe a magnet too but nothing expensive. All bike shops sell 1/4" ball bearings so look close and replace them if they are chewed up.

 

[BKing]

I know this is an old post to be replying to but my answer might help somone. Clicking from the front wheel might be spokes which wouldn't be good but a fractured ball bearing would be much worse. Balls can break and pie shaped pieces get wedged under the adjacent balls and the click is them getting squirted out from under the rolling ball. It doesn't take much of this to damage the hub race and catastrophic failure is possible. So if you hear clicking from your front wheel, don't ride it til you have inspected the bearings. On a Rad front wheel it's pretty easy to do this yourself. All you need is two 17mm wrenches and a 15mm cone wrench. A screwdriver, some grease and rags and maybe a magnet too but nothing expensive. All bike shops sell 1/4" ball bearings so look close and replace them if they are chewed up.

Good advice.
I found tight bearings on my wife’s 2019 City recently and suspect that I overlooked her bike and bearings were set too tight from the factory. 4000 miles and now it has two damaged cone nuts and wear to the hub. The hub is the softest so most bike shops don’t bother with repairing, just sell you a new wheel. I now have to agree with them at least on the Rad since the cone nuts are an unusual size and not available. (If you install cone nuts that are longer than stock your axle will now be too short). The balls were in perfect shape still so I cleaned up the cones and greased it up until a new wheel shows up. I had to leave a slight amount of play to keep any slight rough spots in the feel. The rubber seals are really nice and caused me to overlook bearing maintenance. Checking the bearings by feel with the wheel removed can only be done correctly with those rubber seals removed first. The good thing about Rad wheels is that they come complete with tube, tire and brake disc so your other ones can become spares.

 

[Dave_Hannan]

Hello All,

My wife and I purchased out Rad Power bikes last year towards the end of the summer. We managed to put almost 200 miles on our bikes before the weather started to get cold. Before we took them out on one of our last rides I accidently touched the charging port with the key thinking it was the ignition (too excited to ride). Well my battery started to act weird and not charge. Well 6 months later we went for a 113 mile bike ride and my battery died and I did not know what the problem was. I did some research that night and got a couple ideas on fixes.

There are two spots on the battery one says 5A and the other I think 45A not 100% sure. Well I pried the covers off gently (Rad Power bikes says if you wreck them you need to replace them) These are the fuses for the battery itself. I pulled the 5 Amp fuse and it was popped/blown however you want to say it. I then put a new fuse in (you can get them at the auto parts store in the electric aisle or ask.) anyways I replaced the fuse plugged in the charger and the battery was taking a charge again. I charged it up and now I have zero issues with the bike other than wanting to add some gearing to it. Which is a whole other section I did not take any pictures i apologize for that but I am sure I recreate what I did and take pictures if you want me to.

This was an easy DIY fix if you enjoy doing stuff like that. Oh almost forgot our bike types.

I got the RadRunner 2 (because I could get it in OD Green)
Upgraded my seat (new post also) and added a wooden crate to the back for cargo.
my Wife got the Rad City Step-through
Upgraded her seat and added the Front mount rack with the large basket and pet carrier (to haul a puppy in)

I hope you find this helpful. Have a great summer of riding everyone.

Dave

 

[cayacoa]

Hey people.
I recently purchased a Rad Mini 4, I'm probably late to the party and I'm very disappointed. The bike won't reach 40Kmph or~25Mph. The motor cuts off at 22mph and lowers output to around 300 to 400 watts. I don't know what to do, the bike is basically brand new and I'm thinking about selling it. Any solution to this issue? I've heard about an electrical tape hack? don't know if its true.

 

[JohnJohn]

I'm not really familiar with the mini but Canadian versions of RP bikes have a damper that cuts out at about 22mph, however you're stateside so it's odd. Might be worth going through the process in the video just to make sure you're not getting capped.

 

[cayacoa]

I'm not really familiar with the mini but Canadian versions of RP bikes have a damper that cuts out at about 22mph, however you're stateside so it's odd. Might be worth going through the process in the video just to make sure you're not getting capped.

Hey thanks for the reply.

I've done this and it refuses to get to 25mph. Most it will do is 22Mph, at this speed the motor cuts power down to ~300 watts.

 

[Tars Tarkas]

MIght be worth looking at your wheel diameter setting. It could be that you're actually doing 25. Or you could use a GPS device to check your speed. In any case, I'm not sure you'll ever see 25 mph. I don't recall for sure but I think the top speed spec is in KPH and listed as 40 KPH, which is "only" 24.885 MPH. I like going fast too but I don't know how much I'd really care about 3 mph one way or the other.

TT

 

[cayacoa]

MIght be worth looking at your wheel diameter setting. It could be that you're actually doing 25. Or you could use a GPS device to check your speed. In any case, I'm not sure you'll ever see 25 mph. I don't recall for sure but I think the top speed spec is in KPH and listed as 40 KPH, which is "only" 24.885 MPH. I like going fast too but I don't know how much I'd really care about 3 mph one way or the other.

TT

Yeah I've tried that but most it does is 22mph. I decided to put it on sale and purchase a Lectric XP 3.0

 

[McGene]

1900 miles on my 2018 RadCity. No real issues beyond routine maintenance. Replace the freewheel and chain recently. A special socket is needed to replace the freewheel and Radebikes was out of stock. They kindly told me where I could purchase one.

 

[mrgold35]

1900 miles on my 2018 RadCity. No real issues beyond routine maintenance. Replace the freewheel and chain recently. A special socket is needed to replace the freewheel and Radebikes was out of stock. They kindly told me where I could purchase one.

Another 18 Radcity Step-Thru with under 1000 miles with no real issues with routine maintenance. Upgraded the Radcity to a 2023 Radcity Step-Thru and had the controller fail twice (a week after purchase and July 2024). Rad switched from internal to external controller for the 23 Radcity. Hopefully, the external controller is more durable. Was going to sell the 18 Radcity last year; but, kept it because of the 23 Radcity controller issues.

 

[McGene]

Interesting experience. I was going to purchase the discontinued RadCity 5 Plus -- but read that a number of owners have had controller problems. Frankly, I've decided to look at another brand. Currently (and I may have said this in a previous post -- sorry) -- I'm looking at the Velotric brand -- particularly the Discover 2. It's a bit pricey for me, but I'm hoping a holiday discount is in the works