Known Issues & Problems with Rad Power Products + Help, Solutions & Fixes
- Thread starter Ann M.
- Start date
Great! I would still grab that battery while it’s on sale. Not sure how long they will provide spares. Probably end up soon only having a battery kit available that includes the new style battery, new style mount and adapter if needed for about $600. But you can always wire in another battery brand for about $400.
We have two 19 City’s and a spare battery. The logic is that when we drop $1k on a bike vacation and a battery dies the plans won’t be ruined.
We have two 19 City’s and a spare battery. The logic is that when we drop $1k on a bike vacation and a battery dies the plans won’t be ruined.
2wheelsturning
New Member
I just ordered two front racks for our RR5’s and the parts bag for each is missing the bolt and washers that attach the light to the underside of the rack. Rad only provided 4 bolts to attach the rack to the bike. Bummed and now waiting for Rad to send the missing parts. Anyone else have the same issue with missing parts?
Tars Tarkas
Well-Known Member
What is/was holding the light on before you got the front racks? Is there some reason not to move that with the light?
TT
TT
legsofbeer
Active Member
Sorry if it's obvious, but always get stainless. Also, some of the RR bolts are odd lengths such as 28mm. You can usually get away with going with to the next largest 5mm size.
I hope you have better luck with the light light bracket in your rack kit than I did with the one they sent with my RadMini rack. My light didn't come close to fitting under the rack, the light pivot point on the bracket was way too close to the rack, no room for the light. The pictures in the instructions at the time showed the light for the older generation pre ~2019 Rads, which was sort of a squished oval shape and not as "tall" as the bigger, round shaped light shipped with later and current Rads like my 2020 RadMini 4 (I'm not talking about the MUCH bigger recently introduced Premium light, standard only on the RadRunner Plus at present, but available as an option for other models [tip, don't bother]). The old oval lights would fit under the racks using the bracket supplied with the rack kits instead of their original fork brace mounting bracket, and apparently not stick out beyond the front cross tube of the rack. It didn't look like the kit bracket I received could be bent down to provide room for the newer round light, simply not enough metal present.
By the time I talked to Rad Support, they had already changed the rack installation instructions on their website (from the ones shipped with my rack), showing different pictures. They said there had been some problems but everything had been corrected and sent me a new rack parts kit. No joy, the same wire bracket again that didn't come close to fitting. After looking at the two different shaped brackets; the one from the rack kit(s), apparently intended to mount the old oval light under the rack, and the original light bracket that came on my bike that mounted the new round light on the fork brace arch, I decided I could bend the the bracket that came with the bike to fit under the rack because it was slightly longer than the kit bracket, so I did. The only problem is that the light sticks out about an inch beyond the front cross tube on the rack, not ideal, but I was tired and frustrated with Rad discombobulation at that point so I went with it. I had to repaint the bracket after bending it (in a vise, it's pretty strong).
I don't know if the problems I experienced apply just to a certain vintage of Rad Mini rack kits, but if others experience similar problems on other models, there are solutions, of sorts.
And speaking of hardware, I thought the washers Rad supplied with the rack kit to use with the light mounting screws were to thin/flimsy and not large enough in diameter. I used larger and beefier stainless washers, which seemed to make it easier to get the light aimed and should hopefully hold it in place more securely.
I know some people think front racks look dorky but for me they're totally worth the hit to my would-be suave poser image:
It's so much easier to monitor the groceries on the way home for things like shifting loads or bungees, or to access
cookies at a stoplight.
Things are mounted over the suspension fork (if you have one) and get a much smoother ride. I have a Topeak bag on
the back rack that has a built-in bottle launching pocket on the back (tightening the top draw cord doesn't help). Hit the
right bump and I swear I've sent missiles at least 20 feet up and across two lanes of traffic. I eventually figured a way to
secure a bottle with a loop of 2mm elastic cord to keep it in the pocket.
I use my front rack bare 90+% of the time but I've carried two chainsaws in a Rad Large Basket, and also have a Rad Large
Platform and an assortment of milk crates when needs arise.
By the time I talked to Rad Support, they had already changed the rack installation instructions on their website (from the ones shipped with my rack), showing different pictures. They said there had been some problems but everything had been corrected and sent me a new rack parts kit. No joy, the same wire bracket again that didn't come close to fitting. After looking at the two different shaped brackets; the one from the rack kit(s), apparently intended to mount the old oval light under the rack, and the original light bracket that came on my bike that mounted the new round light on the fork brace arch, I decided I could bend the the bracket that came with the bike to fit under the rack because it was slightly longer than the kit bracket, so I did. The only problem is that the light sticks out about an inch beyond the front cross tube on the rack, not ideal, but I was tired and frustrated with Rad discombobulation at that point so I went with it. I had to repaint the bracket after bending it (in a vise, it's pretty strong).
I don't know if the problems I experienced apply just to a certain vintage of Rad Mini rack kits, but if others experience similar problems on other models, there are solutions, of sorts.
And speaking of hardware, I thought the washers Rad supplied with the rack kit to use with the light mounting screws were to thin/flimsy and not large enough in diameter. I used larger and beefier stainless washers, which seemed to make it easier to get the light aimed and should hopefully hold it in place more securely.
I know some people think front racks look dorky but for me they're totally worth the hit to my would-be suave poser image:
It's so much easier to monitor the groceries on the way home for things like shifting loads or bungees, or to access
cookies at a stoplight.
Things are mounted over the suspension fork (if you have one) and get a much smoother ride. I have a Topeak bag on
the back rack that has a built-in bottle launching pocket on the back (tightening the top draw cord doesn't help). Hit the
right bump and I swear I've sent missiles at least 20 feet up and across two lanes of traffic. I eventually figured a way to
secure a bottle with a loop of 2mm elastic cord to keep it in the pocket.
I use my front rack bare 90+% of the time but I've carried two chainsaws in a Rad Large Basket, and also have a Rad Large
Platform and an assortment of milk crates when needs arise.
sharedknowledge
New Member
thank you for all your help guys!
I researched my issue and I think it is the first time that comes up. I have a RadRunner Plus that I purchased last summer. Shortly afterwards I installed the Bolton controller + screen, the newer version, with back light functionality. All was well, really happy with it.
Recently I ordered and installed the front mounted basket offered by RadPower - installation was pretty flawless, everything was working fine, including the lights.
A couple of days ago, suddenly, I turned on my bike and front / back light were not working anymore.. but the brake light still works, go figure. It makes riding during the night quite unsafe.
What could be the cause of the lights not working? Any ideas on how I can fix it? cheers!
I researched my issue and I think it is the first time that comes up. I have a RadRunner Plus that I purchased last summer. Shortly afterwards I installed the Bolton controller + screen, the newer version, with back light functionality. All was well, really happy with it.
Recently I ordered and installed the front mounted basket offered by RadPower - installation was pretty flawless, everything was working fine, including the lights.
A couple of days ago, suddenly, I turned on my bike and front / back light were not working anymore.. but the brake light still works, go figure. It makes riding during the night quite unsafe.
What could be the cause of the lights not working? Any ideas on how I can fix it? cheers!
AHicks
Well-Known Member
- Region
- USA
- City
- Snow Bird - Summer S.E. Michigan, Winter Gulf Coast North Central Fl.
Is the display back light and the little headlight icon coming on when you turn on the headlights?
If not, know that the section of the controller that supplies headlight power is tiny, and not designed to power anything over 1/2 amp, if that much. Worse, if that power supply let go it's not repairable by the average Joe (myself included). By rights, the tiny amount of power coming from the control should be used to control a relay that can switch much heavier amounts of power pulled from a different area.
If not, know that the section of the controller that supplies headlight power is tiny, and not designed to power anything over 1/2 amp, if that much. Worse, if that power supply let go it's not repairable by the average Joe (myself included). By rights, the tiny amount of power coming from the control should be used to control a relay that can switch much heavier amounts of power pulled from a different area.
sharedknowledge
New Member
Thank you for your reply. Yes, the little headlight icon does turn on. I have to say that the light that I have is the upgraded one that comes standard with the RadRunner Plus.
Furthermore, I reset to factory settings the controller, still no light.
Air Pressure on RadCity.
I recently read a 7 page thread on another forum where about 4 pages were all about a RadCity with very poor performance and low battery mileage with only a 150 lb rider. He even said that he put 35-40 psi in the tires. I was amazed that no one told the guy that a RadCity must have close to 65psi to get any performance out of it. And if the tube is stock or typical type you must top off the pressure every 2 or 3 weeks. If you don’t like the rougher ride you can get a better seat and a shock absorber seat post. I maintain two RadCity’s with combined mileage of over 7k miles as of 2-21. The info is in the manual but it’s easy to overlook and forget. I have done it too.
I recently read a 7 page thread on another forum where about 4 pages were all about a RadCity with very poor performance and low battery mileage with only a 150 lb rider. He even said that he put 35-40 psi in the tires. I was amazed that no one told the guy that a RadCity must have close to 65psi to get any performance out of it. And if the tube is stock or typical type you must top off the pressure every 2 or 3 weeks. If you don’t like the rougher ride you can get a better seat and a shock absorber seat post. I maintain two RadCity’s with combined mileage of over 7k miles as of 2-21. The info is in the manual but it’s easy to overlook and forget. I have done it too.
sharedknowledge
New Member
I did, there was no power. Which meant, no voltage was provided to the lights.
So I swapped the Bolton controller with the stock one and boom! Lights are back on.
Something within the Bolton controller must have broken - it was still usable, although not very safe to be used at night.
I contacted Bolton to get a replacement, let's see.
Thank you for your help
AHicks
Well-Known Member
- Region
- USA
- City
- Snow Bird - Summer S.E. Michigan, Winter Gulf Coast North Central Fl.
The Bolton (KT) controller uses a VERY small circuit within the controller to provide the switched light power. If you attach anything but an LED headlight and tail light, or if there is a short that occurs, this tiny circuit will blow. Fortunately, the rest of the controller will still function. It's only the headlight that's affected. BIG caution required here - and unfortunately Bolton does not have a big red flag up regarding this issue....
AHicks
Well-Known Member
- Region
- USA
- City
- Snow Bird - Summer S.E. Michigan, Winter Gulf Coast North Central Fl.
I agree it's a poor design. It does work pretty good though if set up to turn a relay on and off. As mentioned it's too bad there's no more mention of the issue from the Bolton camp.... At least get some awareness of the issue out there....
sharedknowledge
New Member
Hello there!
An update on my issue: after contacting Bolton, they were happy to send a replacement controller free of charge. Since I am in the UK, shipping back the controller didn't make much sense.
From my point of view, at least, quite excellent customer service from Boston Ebikes.
An update on my issue: after contacting Bolton, they were happy to send a replacement controller free of charge. Since I am in the UK, shipping back the controller didn't make much sense.
From my point of view, at least, quite excellent customer service from Boston Ebikes.
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