Known Issues & Problems with NCM Products + Help, Solutions & Fixes

That's what I did and replaced my controller with a 25 amp KT controller, and it was actually cheaper than the Das-Kit replacement.

But I still prefer the Das-Kit.
It's WAY better built and engineered. The controller itself is fully potted, it's in a solid cast aluminum box, and is completely waterproof.
All the Das-Kit components are better built and more durable.

The ONLY thing that I didn't like about Das-Kit was the power delivery, and when I touched the throttle or the PAS mode engaged (after I start pedaling) the bike went to full power to get me up to the PAS mode speed setting.
I HATED that.

My Das-Kit powered Et.Cycle T1000 is built like a tank and can carry a 330 pound rider and needs all that power for a heavy rider, but you can't turn the power down.
I almost launched my e-bike into my neighbors backyard when I hit the throttle, so I installed the KT controller which allows me to adjust and control the power.
Very good info...thanks...so your modded T1000 is treating you well these days? My Amego Infinite+ (aka NCM Milano plus) is still going strong
 
Very good info...thanks...so your modded T1000 is treating you well these days? My Amego Infinite+ (aka NCM Milano plus) is still going strong

Yeah, I'm liking the ebike. I've put about 4,500 km on it between the two Das-Kit displays and the KT controller and display.

I recently bought a Voltbike Outback as well. It's a full suspension hub drive ebike. The display is really user friendly. You don't need to refer to the manual to adjust the settings, and it doesn't have the power delivery problem like the Das-Kit.

Das-Kit just needs to update their software in their display/controller.
I could have just gotten used to it, but it really irritated me, and I didn't want to get used to something that seemed so stupid.

When I installed the Das-Kit Off-Road display on my T1000, it allowed me to set the throttle to 6 kph.
I would just touch the throttle and the thing would launch.
The bike was going 13 kph before it even realized how fast it was going, then slow back down to 6 kph.

You turn your throttle down to 6 kph for little kids and grandma to ride safely.
I think Leon is trying to kill children and old people. 😂
 
Last edited:
Quick update: Proplem solved! It was the controller! :) Today my new controller arrived so I changed it quickly. The ebike works as it should. Moreover, I noticed that it has more torque with the new controller, now I can reach the top speed in about 8 seconds on flat, and 4 seconds in the air. Before with the old controller it took me somewhere around 12 seconds from what I remember. On the website they say it is an 18A controller.In the first picture is the old controller and in the second the new one with green stickers.
 

Attachments

  • photo_2024-05-30_17-06-21.jpg
    photo_2024-05-30_17-06-21.jpg
    131.8 KB · Views: 87
  • photo_2024-05-30_17-06-26.jpg
    photo_2024-05-30_17-06-26.jpg
    148.3 KB · Views: 92
That controller is a bit different than mine was.
My controller was filled with grey colored potting material, and all the cables were black.

I guess that not all CT5-I5 controllers are the same?
I know that the Das-Kit Off-Road display will unlock the European controllers from 25 kph to 32 kph, and that the American display should unlock my Canadian controller from 32 kph to ~45 kph, but I'm not sure if that is true or not.

I was figuring that all CT5-I5 controllers were the same and it was the display that determined the power output and speed, but that may not be true?
The European, American and Canadian CT5-I5 controllers may be different?

20230121_154701.jpg
20230121_162153.jpg
 
When I bought the ebike in 2021, it had a 36v battery and after unlocking the display, the maximum speed reached was 34kph. After I bought the new 48v battery the maximum speed was 45kph. So your controller has a 63v mosfet as I see?M i right? That's good to know! This means that it would also support a 52v battery without problems. The maximum voltage for a 48v battery is 54.3v and for a 52v battery it is 58.8v
 
You made me curious so I quickly operated the controller. On that big capacitor it says 3 CD263 D2, and 105°C(M).
 

Attachments

  • photo_2024-05-30_19-24-39 (2).jpg
    photo_2024-05-30_19-24-39 (2).jpg
    159.9 KB · Views: 66
  • photo_2024-05-30_19-24-39.jpg
    photo_2024-05-30_19-24-39.jpg
    190 KB · Views: 80
I used chatgpt: The 3 CD263 D2 capacitor, rated at 63V, is an essential component in many electronic applications, providing stability, safety and reliable performance.
so this capacitor would support a 52v battery that has a maximum voltage of 58.8v?
ChatGPT
Yes, a capacitor rated at 63V should easily support a 52V battery that can reach a maximum voltage of 58.8V. It is generally recommended to choose a capacitor with a voltage rating that is at least 20% higher than the maximum voltage it will be exposed to to ensure an adequate safety margin.

Detailed considerations:
Nominal Voltage vs. Maximum Voltage:

The nominal capacitor voltage of 63V is well above the maximum battery voltage of 58.8V. This provides a sufficient safety margin to prevent breakdowns and ensure reliable operation.
Durability and Reliability:

Using a capacitor with an appropriate voltage rating ensures that it will not be subjected to excessive stress, which contributes to the long-term durability and reliability of electronic circuit components.
Margin of Safety:

The safety margin of about 4.2V (63V - 58.8V) is considered adequate in most electronic applications, preventing damage caused by minor voltage fluctuations or transient overvoltages. if I put a 52v battery that has a maximum voltage of 58.8v in full charge, does it work without problems? ChatGPT Yes, if your battery has a maximum voltage of 58.8V at full charge and the capacitor is rated at 63V, then it should work fine. The battery voltage is within the rated capacity of the capacitor, providing enough safety margin to protect against surges.
 
Last edited:
ChatGPT Yes, if your battery has a maximum voltage of 58.8V at full charge and the capacitor is rated at 63V, then it should work fine.

I remember reading that Das-Kit will not accept a 52V battery, but I also read where someone said that it worked fine. I dunno?

I figure that you're probably fine with a 52V battery and a new controller isn't terribly expensive.

Screenshot_20240530-163927_DuckDuckGo.jpg



If your not careful though, you could cook your motor, wires, connectors and controller, but DON'T Cook your battery.
It's the most expensive part, and they don't fry up nearly as nicely.
It might not die quietly. 😂
 
  • Like
Reactions: ovt
As long as the capacitor of the controller is 63v, a 52v battery will work well. Probably the only problem will be that the display will no longer show you the percentage of the battery, just as it happens when the display is set to 48v and you put a battery on 36v, or vice versa. But you already have a button directly on the battery where it shows you the percentage, in addition to that you can also put a voltmeter like on my ebike I have for example. :)
1717153940488.png
1717153966756.png
 
As long as the capacitor of the controller is 63v, a 52v battery will work well.

Just an FYI,..
@Ravi Kempaiah is developing a motor with Ananda.
They are using 80 Volt capacitors for their 52 volt systems.

If there was no point or value in using 80 Volt capacitors, they wouldn't be using them.

 
It is generally recommended to choose a capacitor with a voltage rating that is at least 20% higher than the maximum voltage it will be exposed to to ensure an adequate safety margin.

58.8 volts plus 20% headroom is 70.56 volts.

54.6 volts plus 20% headroom is 65.52 volts.

A 63 volt capacitor charged to 58.8 volts is charged to 93.3%

An 80 volt capacitor charged to 58.8 volts is charged to 73.5%
 
Last edited:
Those few extra amps with the new controller make the difference on the road. And another thing I noticed: before, the motor made a strange noise when we accelerated quickly and at high speeds, it vibrated very strongly from the beginning. Since I changed the controller, it didn't I also heard that noise. Very strange, I thought it was something weak in the motor.
 
Back