Known Issues & Problems with NCM Products + Help, Solutions & Fixes
- Thread starter troehrkasse
- Start date
-sandro-
Member
Good news, I got the new sensor (inner ring with magnets) and it finally fixed the issue of on/off power. I totally forgot how it is to ride this bike with a working sensor!!! 
The "bad" news is that I just found out today the inner sensor could be removed and my magnets were all covered in dirt and rust. Probably I only needed it to clean them?! I'm too tired to try so let's pretend it's broken. My problem is finally fixed. It only cost me €15 shipped from NCM!
The "bad" news is that I just found out today the inner sensor could be removed and my magnets were all covered in dirt and rust. Probably I only needed it to clean them?! I'm too tired to try so let's pretend it's broken. My problem is finally fixed. It only cost me €15 shipped from NCM!
-sandro-
Member
which is the 12 spline tool like this? https://www.parktool.com/en-int/product/freewheel-remover-fr-1-3?category=Cassette+&+Freewheel
Renting an NCM Moscow at the moment. After riding back to my home, I had an intermittent power issue with the Pedal Assistance. It was like the motor would provide power when the right crank turned forward but once the left crank turned forward, the power would immediately cease. So I was getting only little bursts of power on the flat at a regular cadence.
This video convinced me to give the black ring cover on the PAS sensor a wiggle to ensure it was straight -
This fixed this issue immediately and I was travelling 25km/hr uphill. When the issue happened again, I'd check that ring cover again and it would be fixed.
Now, after two weeks, this fix is no longer working.
Checked all connectors. Tried gaff-taping the black ring cover as firmly as possible to the frame.
I am so damn tired of the fickleness of e-bikes.
This video convinced me to give the black ring cover on the PAS sensor a wiggle to ensure it was straight -
Now, after two weeks, this fix is no longer working.
Checked all connectors. Tried gaff-taping the black ring cover as firmly as possible to the frame.
I am so damn tired of the fickleness of e-bikes.
...and I've stripped the thread off the square-taper Shimano crank arm not realising I need to remove the octalink attachment on the universal crank pulling tool.
edit: Now that I've tried again with the octalink attachment removed, the universal crank pulling tool is somehow stuck inside the square-taper connection and refuses to come out. Fantastic.
edit: Now that I've tried again with the octalink attachment removed, the universal crank pulling tool is somehow stuck inside the square-taper connection and refuses to come out. Fantastic.
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I took the NCM Moscow to two bike mechanics today.
The first said the threads are "cooked" and there's nothing that can be done.
The second used a specialist crank-pulling tool designed specifically for these situations and got the crank arm off. He wouldn't tell me what he used other than it was tapered.
With the crank arm off, he was able to pry the plastic cover off the PAS, clean out all the red dirt that had accumulated, put the cover back and test if the sensor was still working.
I took it home, applied a tiny amount of grease on the square taper spindle to make it a little easier to remove with the reduced thread and reattached it tightly with the bolt using an allan key.
The Moscow is so much more responsive now.
The rental shop owner was disappointed that I did not bring the bike to him when I found the issue (I found the issue on Sunday and he's closed Sunday to Tuesday) but he was fine with the thread being a little damaged. He was more concerned about if the bike is working fine for me, which it is. I've rented it for another week to make sure this crank arm doesn't start wiggling.
The first said the threads are "cooked" and there's nothing that can be done.
The second used a specialist crank-pulling tool designed specifically for these situations and got the crank arm off. He wouldn't tell me what he used other than it was tapered.
With the crank arm off, he was able to pry the plastic cover off the PAS, clean out all the red dirt that had accumulated, put the cover back and test if the sensor was still working.
I took it home, applied a tiny amount of grease on the square taper spindle to make it a little easier to remove with the reduced thread and reattached it tightly with the bolt using an allan key.
The Moscow is so much more responsive now.
The rental shop owner was disappointed that I did not bring the bike to him when I found the issue (I found the issue on Sunday and he's closed Sunday to Tuesday) but he was fine with the thread being a little damaged. He was more concerned about if the bike is working fine for me, which it is. I've rented it for another week to make sure this crank arm doesn't start wiggling.
PCeBiker
Well-Known Member
- Region
- Canada
I was wondering about that too.
My owners manual (Das-Kit powered ET.CYCLE T1000) says that I'm supposed to lubricate my forks monthly?
I'm not going to take my forks apart every month !!
I finally found this,..
I've got the fork lube and the grease is on the way, but the fork seals kinda push the lube out of the way, like a windshield wiper.
Then I found this video,..
So I bought these syringes to try and squirt grease or oil past the seals and into the fork tube where it belongs.
The syringes are on their way too.
They are blunt nosed, so I should have less chance of damaging the seals.
I have a problem with my ebike das-kit CT5-I5. Earlier I went for a ride and suddenly the engine stopped working. The display shows correctly, it doesn't show any errors, instead the pedal assistance doesn't work and neither does the throttle. What could be the problem?The controller or the motor?
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-sandro-
Member
Not sure it could be just a cable problem?I have a problem with my ebike das-kit CT5-I5. Earlier I went for a ride and suddenly the engine stopped working. The display shows correctly, it doesn't show any errors, instead the pedal assistance doesn't work and neither does the throttle. What could be the problem?The controller or the motor?
I also checked the cables, disconnected the brake sensor, checked if the 6km/h pedal assist mode works when I press the minus button and it doesn't.If it was only a problem with a cable, at least one of the two, pedal assist or throttle, would have worked. Yesterday I went for a walk and after I stopped and wanted to start again immediately, the engine didn't start not at all. No pedal assist, no throttle, no power bars on the display. So, the problem remains with the controller 99%, I have already traveled with my ebike over 3900km.The new controller should arrive next week from France.
When it is necessary to replace the Das-Kit controller, a few folks have chosen to spend the money on a more capable (programmable, higer amperage, etc.) controller and display. Can be a bit of work to get all the connections right, physically locate the controller on the bike, etc., but there are a few threads here recounting positive experiences.
PCeBiker
Well-Known Member
- Region
- Canada
That's what I did and replaced my controller with a 25 amp KT controller, and it was actually cheaper than the Das-Kit replacement.
But I still prefer the Das-Kit.
It's WAY better built and engineered. The controller itself is fully potted, it's in a solid cast aluminum box, and is completely waterproof.
All the Das-Kit components are better built and more durable.
The ONLY thing that I didn't like about Das-Kit was the power delivery, and when I touched the throttle or the PAS mode engaged (after I start pedaling) the bike went to full power to get me up to the PAS mode speed setting.
I HATED that.
My Das-Kit powered Et.Cycle T1000 is built like a tank and can carry a 330 pound rider and needs all that power for a heavy rider, but you can't turn the power down.
I almost launched my e-bike into my neighbors backyard when I hit the throttle, so I installed the KT controller which allows me to adjust and control the power.
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