Velofix came by today. He tightened up the rear wheel spokes though he didn't think they were particularly loose. He was able to experience the delayed activation of PAS 3 (and 4 and 5 for that matter). He thinks it may be a problem with the PAS switch on the handlebar (which apparently works in tandem with the display unit). At this point I'm putting aside the occasional buzzing noise I hear, as he thought it could possibly be interaction between the spokes and, regardless, I could live with it if the other issue can be resolved. I've shared his report with Lectric via email. We'll see what they come back with.
Known Issues & Problems with Lectric eBikes Products + Help, Solutions & Fixes
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I got the new display. Hooked it up. Took it out for a test ride. It looks like this fixed the delayed PAS 3 activation issue. The buzzing sound was intermittent and only lasted a second whenever it happened. Might be coming from the spokes - the Velofix tech couldn’t rule that out. One interesting thing was that recalibrating the Speedo against GPS (P6) required a much lower setting than previously. I had it set to 24.5” on the original display. I’m now at 22.8”. Either I goofed it up the first time, my GPS app is unreliable, or Lectric has tweaked whatever programming is inside the display. PAS 3 is now maintaining around 16 mph, which makes more sense Than before, where it was maintaining closer to 18 mph against 12 mph for PAS 2.
The saga continues….I went out for a second test ride earlier this week. I was having a blast and was on my way home, about 11 miles in, when the PAS 3 delayed activation issue reappeared. It continued for about a mile when, while coasting, I decided to turn off the bike and turn it back on. Issue disappeared and I finished the ride. The only thing out of the ordinary was that at some point I had accidentally turned on the lights. Did that trigger something? Dunno. I will have to keep an eye on this.
SDGuitarMan
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Well that sucks. Mine isn't much better. Yesterday we took the bikes out for a longer ride that included some decent hills with a very strong headwind (20mph+). The step-through made its usual rattling noises when under this load and now mine has developed a different kind of noise that sounds like the motor itself. I'm thinking it's just the nature of these bikes. Fortunately they do come with a 1 year warranty so if they become inoperable within that time hopefully Lectric will fix it. I'm not confident that they will do anything about the noises though.
BTW, if I'm not mistaken, the controllers are designed with a max current draw of 18 amps. During the uphill/against the wind parts, mine was hitting 20 and 21 amps quite a few times. I wonder how long it will take to fry something.
Your PAS issue sounds very annoying. Lectric already sent you a new controller and display panel? If those two things didn't fix it I wonder what else it might be.
tomjasz
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It's not unusual for PAS sensors to have issues. Magnet position, flaky connection, loose, or moisture. Does Lectric have an led on the PAS sender? If yes watch and see if it flashes when the magnet passes and there's an issue happening. I apologize if this is appropriate to your bikes.
There’s only one thing I did not switch out - the cable connecting the display to the controller. I’m not at all excited about doing that, with all of the wire wrap involved. I find it hard to believe that is the issue, as you think if there was a nick in the wire that it would just short out the PAS altogether, rather than delay activation. We will see.
Since on our two XP2.0st bikes the 11mph buzzing goes away when the rear fender is dampened by a sponge wedged under the rack, I'd suspect it's a fender-mount issue. Shouldn't be hard to put in some tiny o-rings on the two mounting points (top and forward). A springtime project for me.
The PAS thing is weird. I imagine the handlebar switch is very simple in design, with no electronics inside, just signal lines. Perhaps swapping out the PAS sensor would be an easy test.
The PAS thing is weird. I imagine the handlebar switch is very simple in design, with no electronics inside, just signal lines. Perhaps swapping out the PAS sensor would be an easy test.
Delayed activation of PAS 3 still occurring. While I can defeat it by rebooting the display, I cannot stop it from occurring. Lectric sent me a new cadence sensor and a wire harness. Unfortunately, they didn’t tell me I’d need a crank puller to remove the crank arm so I can access the sensor. I don’t own a crank puller. Luckily, a bike store in my area does have one, so I will be making a little road trip tomorrow.
I swapped out the cable from the display to the controller. Lectric sent me a new cadence sensor and connector wire, which I installed (had to buy a crank puller to get to the cadence sensor). Finally got a chance to test it out on a 16-mile ride today. No issues! I’m cautiously optimistic. I want to try two more test runs before I declare the patient healed, rather than in remission.
The weather finally warmed up enough (high 30s) to try test ride #2. Unfortunately, the delayed PAS 3 activation kicked in at the 8 mile mark of the ride, and continued after each coasting event until I eventually turned the bike off and back on, which reset whatever went awry. I also had a couple of buzzing episodes while under stress (like going up a hill). I’m positive it is not the fender, as I applied Dynamat to the entire inside of the fender - nothing should make it vibrate. I actually think it’s coming from pairs of crossing spokes, which must get excited by the motor somehow. I don’t care about that; it’s the PAS issue that I want to get figured out. I’ve reached out to Lectric once more.
lectricG
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I broke 7 spokes on my 2,0 at first I noticed 2 and when I was changing wore out rear tire I found 5 more.look closely at all your spokes lectric sent me a whole new rear rim with motor and tire with a free send back. Ps I was 3 days out of warranty they treated me awesome.they want to investigate the problem good luck
I've discussed the "buzzing" issue on other threads, but in the interest of offering a solution here, to this old thread, thought I'd chime in.
After a bit of experimenting on our XP 2.0 st bikes, the 11mph buzzing is apparently a sympathetic vibration in the rear metal fender. The buzzing can be totally eliminated by removing the little chrome clamp holding the support wire at the very rear of the rear fender, inserting a bit of soft foam material, and then partially re-tightening the two screws. In this way the fender is held loosely in position but the vibration coming up the support wire does not excite the fender.
Our two bikes are now two years old. One LCD display failed recently and was replaced at no cost by Lectric. Tires have Flat-Out in them and have never needed additional air. Great bikes.
After a bit of experimenting on our XP 2.0 st bikes, the 11mph buzzing is apparently a sympathetic vibration in the rear metal fender. The buzzing can be totally eliminated by removing the little chrome clamp holding the support wire at the very rear of the rear fender, inserting a bit of soft foam material, and then partially re-tightening the two screws. In this way the fender is held loosely in position but the vibration coming up the support wire does not excite the fender.
Our two bikes are now two years old. One LCD display failed recently and was replaced at no cost by Lectric. Tires have Flat-Out in them and have never needed additional air. Great bikes.
Two (or maybe three counting both chains on each trike) problems.
New Lectric Trike2 750 (two of them) with the following so far:
1) Both chains on each trike were so tight they were rigid. Couldn't flex them at all with heavy thumb pressure. Easy fix I hope, but since I don't have any reference for what's properly tensioned it will be a guess. While adjusting the tension it appears the tensioner is just a bolt in a slot - no spring - so it's kind of a zoo to keep it aligned and in position while the bolts (yes, there are two on each sprocket on each chain!) are tightened on either side of the tensioning sprocket. If I had 4 hands it might be simpler...
2) Surge/lunge with throttle acting more like a light switch than a throttle. I covered this in another message in detail. Still haven't solved it.
Otherwise the trikes look like maybe they'll be ok.
Tom
New Lectric Trike2 750 (two of them) with the following so far:
1) Both chains on each trike were so tight they were rigid. Couldn't flex them at all with heavy thumb pressure. Easy fix I hope, but since I don't have any reference for what's properly tensioned it will be a guess. While adjusting the tension it appears the tensioner is just a bolt in a slot - no spring - so it's kind of a zoo to keep it aligned and in position while the bolts (yes, there are two on each sprocket on each chain!) are tightened on either side of the tensioning sprocket. If I had 4 hands it might be simpler...
2) Surge/lunge with throttle acting more like a light switch than a throttle. I covered this in another message in detail. Still haven't solved it.
Otherwise the trikes look like maybe they'll be ok.
Tom
stompandgo
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On trikes or bikes with long chains and tensioners like recumbents or tandems, try this, if you haven't already.
1. Prop the bike up so that you can spin the pedals freely.
2. Slack the chain off so that there is 1/2" (12mm) sag in the middle.
3. Spin the pedals and watch the middle of the lower half of the chain. It may move up and down, because the sprockets at each end aren't round. Find the tightest point (least sag), and keep the chain there.
4. Tighten the adjustment bolts finger tight.
5. Use a plastic hammer on the adjustment mechanism to tighten the chain so that there's no more than 1/4" (6mm) of movement when pushing the chain up and down at the tightest point.
6. Tighten the adjustment bolts down.
1. Prop the bike up so that you can spin the pedals freely.
2. Slack the chain off so that there is 1/2" (12mm) sag in the middle.
3. Spin the pedals and watch the middle of the lower half of the chain. It may move up and down, because the sprockets at each end aren't round. Find the tightest point (least sag), and keep the chain there.
4. Tighten the adjustment bolts finger tight.
5. Use a plastic hammer on the adjustment mechanism to tighten the chain so that there's no more than 1/4" (6mm) of movement when pushing the chain up and down at the tightest point.
6. Tighten the adjustment bolts down.
stompandgo,
Thank you!
Interestingly, the sprockets are less than a foot apart for both the pedal chains and the motor chains so I suspect the amount of sag will probably want to be a bit less than 1/4" (maybe 1/8" to 3/16"?)
Your suggestion of finger tightening and tapping for the tensioner sprocket sounds perfect - I'll try that today.
Tom
Thank you!
Interestingly, the sprockets are less than a foot apart for both the pedal chains and the motor chains so I suspect the amount of sag will probably want to be a bit less than 1/4" (maybe 1/8" to 3/16"?)
Your suggestion of finger tightening and tapping for the tensioner sprocket sounds perfect - I'll try that today.
Tom
stompandgo
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1/8" makes sense to me.
I received a reply from Lectric about the trike2 750 chain adjustment. Here's a quote:
I've listed some steps below on the idler pulley adjustment.
I did this for the front chains on both trikes. They are longer than the motor chains and easier to get to.
On one trike it seemed to work fine - the pedal whizzes around fine if I give it a shove in the backward direction. The other one only goes about one revolutiion and then stops. My impression is that the front pedal sprocket is either out of round, off-center or bent. It's not easy to see, but the behavior is pretty conclusive.
I made videos of each and sent them to Lectric. I'll follow up with their response.
Tom
...
I've listed some steps below on the idler pulley adjustment.
I did this for the front chains on both trikes. They are longer than the motor chains and easier to get to.
On one trike it seemed to work fine - the pedal whizzes around fine if I give it a shove in the backward direction. The other one only goes about one revolutiion and then stops. My impression is that the front pedal sprocket is either out of round, off-center or bent. It's not easy to see, but the behavior is pretty conclusive.
I made videos of each and sent them to Lectric. I'll follow up with their response.
Tom
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