Known Issues & Problems with Lectric eBikes Products + Help, Solutions & Fixes

[Doomsday]

I just unboxed mine. I would like to adjust wheel size to get an accurate odometer. But then the speedometer would probably be wrong. Strange they are not consistent. I would be very curious once you have your bike "unlocked" if you can get speed and odometer to both be correct. I suspect that is unlikely. But would love to be proven wrong. I feel I got my $899 worth. I have not even ridden it yet. Yes I know in China the same bike would cost less. But I do not live in China.

See thats where P18 comes into play. You set your tire size so the odometer is correct then you adjust p18 to adjust your displayed speed to be correct and tada, you have a perfect odometer and speedometer. Yet another setting that is locked that while seems useless, turns out it actually is useful. Odd that the folks who can change their settings haven't figured that one out yet.

 

[martinctv]

Nothing you can do about it because you got a locked bike. Maybe if lectric is feeling kind they may allow you to send in your controller and display and reprogram it for you. If not then you're probably out of luck. Just remember, the bike is still fun regardless if it doesn't work correctly. It shouldn't impact your enjoyment of the bike in any way!

The funny thing is. Lectrics email to me stated that the PO15 setting should be set to 41.5v as I have stated mine is set to 40v. So am I to assume that lectric put the wrong voltage in then locked the controller? Anyway I sent them an email about it and waiting for a reply. Thanks for the info.

 

[Doomsday]

The funny thing is. Lectrics email to me stated that the PO15 setting should be set to 41.5v as I have stated mine is set to 40v. So am I to assume that lectric put the wrong voltage in then locked the controller? Anyway I sent them an email about it and waiting for a reply. Thanks for the info.

Mine is also set to 40v and locked. Just fyi, He wasn't necessarily wrong. P15 is supposed to be low voltage cut off. Which I personally feel 40v is a tad to low. What you are experiencing sounds like something is binding which is causing power surging which is causing the display to freak out.

 

[martinctv]

Mine is also set to 40v and locked. Just fyi, He wasn't necessarily wrong. P15 is supposed to be low voltage cut off. Which I personally feel 40v is a tad to low. What you are experiencing sounds like something is binding which is causing power surging which is causing the display to freak out.

I just got an email from Lectric. Lauren told me that in order to change PO14 from 40v to 41.5v, the battery must be fully charged (green light) and plugged in. I am charging now waiting for green, then I will give it a try. P.S. according to what Lectric sent to me as far as their defaults settings are, their information states that PO15 should be set at 41.5v, so they must have locked certain bikes at 40.

 

[damonjohn]

I just got an email from Lectric. Lauren told me that in order to change PO14 from 40v to 41.5v, the battery must be fully charged (green light) and plugged in. I am charging now waiting for green, then I will give it a try. P.S. according to what Lectric sent to me as far as their defaults settings are, their information states that PO15 should be set at 41.5v, so they must have locked certain bikes at 40.

I wish they'd put this on their website! My reads 40v also, and my energy bar fluctuates a little, next time I charge I'll change it.

If you get a chance, would you post the list of settings they sent you?

 

[martinctv]

I wish they'd put this on their website! My reads 40v also, and my energy bar fluctuates a little, next time I charge I'll change it.

If you get a chance, would you post the list of settings they sent you?

Here was their response when I asked about the battery bar fluctuation. My answer was no.

Have you changed any of the default settings on the bike? I want to make sure that your setting align with the defaults listed below, sometimes when they are in the wrong settings it can affect the different components of the bike. Let me know if these settings help with the battery bar.

P01: 1-3 Screen brightness
P02: 1 Kmph/Mph
P03: 48V Voltage
P04: 10
P05: 1 Throttle on/off
P06: 20 inch tire height
P07: 1
P08: 32 - 45 max speed
P09: 0
P10: 2
P11: 3 Pedal assist sensitivity
P12: 3
P13: 12
P14: 18
P15: 41.5V
P16: 0 mile odometer
P17: 0
P18: 100%
P19: 0
P20: 0

 

[damonjohn]

Here was their response when I asked about the battery bar fluctuation. My answer was no.

Have you changed any of the default settings on the bike? I want to make sure that your setting align with the defaults listed below, sometimes when they are in the wrong settings it can affect the different components of the bike. Let me know if these settings help with the battery bar.

P01: 1-3 Screen brightness
P02: 1 Kmph/Mph
P03: 48V Voltage
P04: 10
P05: 1 Throttle on/off
P06: 20 inch tire height
P07: 1
P08: 32 - 45 max speed
P09: 0
P10: 2
P11: 3 Pedal assist sensitivity
P12: 3
P13: 12
P14: 18
P15: 41.5V
P16: 0 mile odometer
P17: 0
P18: 100%
P19: 0
P20: 0

Thank you.

 

[martinctv]

Thank you.

Sure thing. Ok I tried what Lectric suggested. Charged the battery to full, left charger plugged in, go to setting PO15 still reads 40 and cannot be changed. I also tried it with the charger unplugged same thing. I emailed them to let them know. My energy bar fluctuates so much I can't really tell how much juice is left. Also, my headlight burned out (I think). I checked the connections, all good. They are sending me a new headlight. If this keeps up I may have to utter the words to myself that no one likes to say when they get a good deal on something. "You get what you pay for" LOL

 

[damonjohn]

Sure thing. Ok I tried what Lectric suggested. Charged the battery to full, left charger plugged in, go to setting PO15 still reads 40 and cannot be changed. I also tried it with the charger unplugged same thing. I emailed them to let them know. My energy bar fluctuates so much I can't really tell how much juice is left. Also, my headlight burned out (I think). I checked the connections, all good. They are sending me a new headlight. If this keeps up I may have to utter the words to myself that no one likes to say when they get a good deal on something. "You get what you pay for" LOL

Maybe the fluctuation you get is different than mine and means that something is wrong. My energy bar drops by about 1/3 when going up a hill. I understand that it's drawing more current but that seems excessive. Does yours drop just riding on level ground???

 

[Kimbo]

I just unboxed mine. I would like to adjust wheel size to get an accurate odometer. But then the speedometer would probably be wrong. Strange they are not consistent. I would be very curious once you have your bike "unlocked" if you can get speed and odometer to both be correct. I suspect that is unlikely. But would love to be proven wrong. I feel I got my $899 worth. I have not even ridden it yet. Yes I know in China the same bike would cost less. But I do not live in China.

I have an "unlocked bike" and you have to choose if you want the odometer correct or the mileage. Coming from a scooter and motorcycle background speedo error is extremely common, my last Suzuki was 10 kph low and that was on a quality bike, the chinese scooters are all over the map! On my bike I just put on a phone carrier and then I can be pretty sure about the speed and distance, or like someone else said just get a reasonably priced bike computer and that would give you really good info including cadence, avg speed, max speed, clock, etc, etc, etc. I might go that route myself because of all the extra info and the smaller footprint compared to my phone.

 

[martinctv]

Maybe the fluctuation you get is different than mine and means that something is wrong. My energy bar drops by about 1/3 when going up a hill. I understand that it's drawing more current but that seems excessive. Does yours drop just riding on level ground???

It drops on level ground gear 5 level PAS 3. I got this email last night.

So I was just speaking to one of our bike technicians and we were playing with our September batch of bikes- it turns out that P15 cannot be changed at all, and the standard is actually 40, not 41.5! So sorry for the confusion, we'll be changing our tech specs to match this. We are constantly updating our bikes, and this is something that we have just now come across, so I want to thank you for bringing it to our attention!
As for the battery levels, my technician has told me that battery fluctuation is pretty normal for this newer version of our bikes. Basically, the battery is constantly judging how much voltage is being used and tries to compensate by constantly fluctuating. Does your battery seem to correct itself when you are in between rides?
Thanks so much for working with us on these matters, we really appreciate you!
Lauren

 

[Doomsday]

I have an "unlocked bike" and you have to choose if you want the odometer correct or the mileage. Coming from a scooter and motorcycle background speedo error is extremely common, my last Suzuki was 10 kph low and that was on a quality bike, the chinese scooters are all over the map! On my bike I just put on a phone carrier and then I can be pretty sure about the speed and distance, or like someone else said just get a reasonably priced bike computer and that would give you really good info including cadence, avg speed, max speed, clock, etc, etc, etc. I might go that route myself because of all the extra info and the smaller footprint compared to my phone.

Tire size will correct odometer. P18 you can adjust to correct speedometer. At least on the unlocked bikes.

 

[Doomsday]

It drops on level ground gear 5 level PAS 3. I got this email last night.

So I was just speaking to one of our bike technicians and we were playing with our September batch of bikes- it turns out that P15 cannot be changed at all, and the standard is actually 40, not 41.5! So sorry for the confusion, we'll be changing our tech specs to match this. We are constantly updating our bikes, and this is something that we have just now come across, so I want to thank you for bringing it to our attention!
As for the battery levels, my technician has told me that battery fluctuation is pretty normal for this newer version of our bikes. Basically, the battery is constantly judging how much voltage is being used and tries to compensate by constantly fluctuating. Does your battery seem to correct itself when you are in between rides?
Thanks so much for working with us on these matters, we really appreciate you!
Lauren

Yep calling BS on this one. Not the P15 setting but the amount of battery fluctuation you are getting. On level ground, should not be an issue at all, unless you're doing 20+mph and pedaling your butt off. Then it would fluctuate some. Start looking at basics, Something is binding causing this excessive drain. Make sure the derailer guard isnt pushed in causing issues, Make sure the derailer isn't out of alignment. Oil your chain. Make sure the crank is moving smoothly.

 

[Kimbo]

Tire size will correct odometer. P18 you can adjust to correct speedometer. At least on the unlocked bikes.

Did both and the bike will not match gps, will keep playing with it and if it still doesn't work will probably choose accurate odometer over accurate speed

 

[Bxg]

Yep calling BS on this one. Not the P15 setting but the amount of battery fluctuation you are getting. On level ground, should not be an issue at all, unless you're doing 20+mph and pedaling your butt off. Then it would fluctuate some. Start looking at basics, Something is binding causing this excessive drain. Make sure the derailer guard isnt pushed in causing issues, Make sure the derailer isn't out of alignment. Oil your chain. Make sure the crank is moving smoothly.

Any binding on the drive train will affect the person pedaling, but not the motor. it turns independently (with the exception of the brakes). Battery fluctuation is normal and will be more pronounced the more the battery drains.

 

[PrimalDoc]

Not sure if this is and issue or not. My energy bar fluctuates from full to half full to about a quarter full while peddling. This occurs even when the battery has a full charge. I emailed Lectric about it, they replied asking if I changed any setting I said no. They sent me a list of what the settings should read, PO1-PO20. Mine matched what they should with one exception. PO15 according to Lectric should read 41.5v mine reads 40. I said this to them I am waiting for a reply. I was not able to change the setting from 40 to 41.5v. Any info would be appreciated.

I have the same issue. My power bars can fluctuate by as much as 6 bars while riding, depending on the PAS mode, and whether I'm peddling up a hill, on the flat, or downhill. I was down to 3 bars yesterday on my way home from work, with basically a full battery, but when I stopped at an intersection, it went back up to 10 bars. I noted that my minimum voltage setting at P15 was set to 39.5 when I got it. I'll try setting it up to 41.5 and see if it makes any difference to the wildly fluctuating power bar, but don't really see why that setting would affect it. I've noted that the bars will drop if I switch to a higher PAS, and rise if I reduce the PAS as I ride.

 

[martinctv]

Yep calling BS on this one. Not the P15 setting but the amount of battery fluctuation you are getting. On level ground, should not be an issue at all, unless you're doing 20+mph and pedaling your butt off. Then it would fluctuate some. Start looking at basics, Something is binding causing this excessive drain. Make sure the derailer guard isnt pushed in causing issues, Make sure the derailer isn't out of alignment. Oil your chain. Make sure the crank is moving smoothly.

I had it tuned up by my local bike shop everything mechanical is where it should be and is lubricated. I am waiting on a reply from Lectric. I just want to make sure the bike works as it is supposed to. If the fluctuation is normal then fine, although not knowing the true state of battery charge or what is left kinda sucks. When I get a final answer from Lectric I’ll post it here.

 

[Snokid]

Not seeing your bike but here goes anyways...
The energy bar is nothing more than a volt meter...
If you have a volt meter in your car or remember the days when you did, with the engine not running the meter would show 12.5(or something close) but as soon as you started the car it would jump up to 13.8 because the battery was being charged. On the same lines when the starter was cranking the motor over it might read 11.8.
These bikes are no different, when you are cruising down the road at 20 mph the motor is pulling down the voltage, come to a stop and the voltage will go up(bars).
That's totally normal.
I don't know of a bike builder that measures amps consumed a more accurate way to measure battery consumption.

I had it tuned up by my local bike shop everything mechanical is where it should be and is lubricated. I am waiting on a reply from Lectric. I just want to make sure the bike works as it is supposed to. If the fluctuation is normal then fine, although not knowing the true state of battery charge or what is left kinda sucks. When I get a final answer from Lectric I’ll post it here.

 

[martinctv]

Not seeing your bike but here goes anyways...
The energy bar is nothing more than a volt meter...
If you have a volt meter in your car or remember the days when you did, with the engine not running the meter would show 12.5(or something close) but as soon as you started the car it would jump up to 13.8 because the battery was being charged. On the same lines when the starter was cranking the motor over it might read 11.8.
These bikes are no different, when you are cruising down the road at 20 mph the motor is pulling down the voltage, come to a stop and the voltage will go up(bars).
That's totally normal.
I don't know of a bike builder that measures amps consumed a more accurate way to measure battery consumption.

Thank you for the info.

 

[jsandoval68]

So I have been trouble shooting the XP now that I have had it for a few weeks, worked out most of the kinks. The front and back fenders rattled, loose screws the rear derailleur shifted wrong and was rubbing, was a 1/4 turn out of adjustment, the PAS level was slow the settings in p11 and p12 were wrong, but after that the bike has performed great, the battery is good the motor has power and the only thing I have left to do is put some duct tape on my battery to stop some rattle when hitting bumps. Over all like the bike, and can't beat the price.