Known Issues & Problems with Juiced Bikes Products + Help, Solutions & Fixes

[Chris Hammond]

I have had my battery cut out a few times. However, every time it has happened, it has been the result of the lock not fully engaged. I have been able to pull the battery out without the key and replace which has fixed the problem.

 

[MisterBritcom]

I put a little dielectric grease on the upper mounting surfaces of my battery to help it slide into place. I usually give it a bump with the heel of my hand to make it click in that last little bit

 

[MisterBritcom]

Thanks to Reid for his advice on chain drops. I put a 36 tooth narrow/wide chain ring on and so far it seems to have fixed the problem. Save yourself some money and do the chainring before you bother with a guide (IMHO)
The shifting feels much more precise and I can stand on the pedals now without fear of a drop putting me on my face

 

[Glenn-rod]

I can not seem to find the post that I was thinking of...

BTW, for my RCS my I need to do 2 things different than what is indicated to insert the battery:

1. I need to use the key to keep the security pin "retracted"
2. I insert the bottom of the battery in the expected way (45 degree angle coming in from the side) but then I have to swing the whole battery inwards so that the battery top is vertically lined up with frame and then drop it down (which is not how the juiced videos show battery insertion

BTW - if anyone comes up with a "cover" for the battery area when the battery is removed (maybe a pull down sleeve?) please post a link.

I have to use the key to put my battery in on the RCS too! They must have changed something in the design.

I wonder if an empty battery case can be purchased to use when the battery is removed.
Tora had said in another post on here "If you notice our new platform is compatible with Reention. It fits right on and we did this very deliberately. So you could in theory call Reention and get a Dorado Plus case, then have the cells welded with the lithium flavor of your choice and it will work on the bike.

 

[ADKer]

Hi; I've had CCS for 3 months and enjoying it immensely, but have had one problem. On 2 occasions, it lost battery power; However, not completely i.e. the computer was still on. But no pedal assist. I tried turning off power on battery/ and screen; then back "on", but it made no difference. In both instances, pedal assist just eventually came "on" again unexpectedly as I was pedaling unassisted. It was not from any bumps in the pavement. It also does not at all seem like the battery itself is loose; it is locked in very nicely on my bike. Any ideas? A loose cable? How would I find it? Thanks

 

[Fran Fabrizio]

Have you re-seated all connections (particularly the ones between power and motor, since you did not lose power at the screen)?

 

[hurricane56]

Hi; I've had CCS for 3 months and enjoying it immensely, but have had one problem. On 2 occasions, it lost battery power; However, not completely i.e. the computer was still on. But no pedal assist. I tried turning off power on battery/ and screen; then back "on", but it made no difference. In both instances, pedal assist just eventually came "on" again unexpectedly as I was pedaling unassisted. It was not from any bumps in the pavement. It also does not at all seem like the battery itself is loose; it is locked in very nicely on my bike. Any ideas? A loose cable? How would I find it? Thanks

This is the exact same problem that started on my HyperFat. I went through all of the troubleshooting with JuicedBikes and they sent out a new controller.

 

[ryanmoore]

This is the exact same problem that started on my HyperFat. I went through all of the troubleshooting with JuicedBikes and they sent out a new controller.

This guy had the same problem. In his case, they installed the controller backwards, cinching the cables and disrupting power.

 

[ADKer]

This guy had the same problem. In his case, they installed the controller backwards, cinching the cables and disrupting power.

So I should unplug and re-attach every cable between power and motor? Is there a diagram showing which ones are between battery and motor? Or just trace the cords? If this doesn't work, would you send a service ticket to Juiced? It's not a constant problem, but did occur twice. Thanks

 

[highpockets]

I just wanted to throw this out there and pick the collective brain.

I bought a CCS with the 19.2 ah battery. I bought my wife a Voltbike Elegant. While the Elegant has a 500 watt motor compared to my 650 watt motor, her bike has better acceleration and torque than my bike. I thought it might be the torque sensor on my bike so I turned it off with no appreciable improvement. Any idea as to why my bike lacks the pep of the Voltbike?

 

[Ryno]

I just wanted to throw this out there and pick the collective brain.

I bought a CCS with the 19.2 ah battery. I bought my wife a Voltbike Elegant. While the Elegant has a 500 watt motor compared to my 650 watt motor, her bike has better acceleration and torque than my bike. I thought it might be the torque sensor on my bike so I turned it off with no appreciable improvement. Any idea as to why my bike lacks the pep of the Voltbike?

Most likely your CCS motor has the copper wires wound for speed ( 6T ) and your wife's motor wound for torque or normal ( 10T - 12T ). Have you tried using the TAB function (throttle assisted boost) where you pedal and press the throttle at the same time?

 

[Chris Hammond]

I just wanted to throw this out there and pick the collective brain.

I bought a CCS with the 19.2 ah battery. I bought my wife a Voltbike Elegant. While the Elegant has a 500 watt motor compared to my 650 watt motor, her bike has better acceleration and torque than my bike. I thought it might be the torque sensor on my bike so I turned it off with no appreciable improvement. Any idea as to why my bike lacks the pep of the Voltbike?

The Juiced motor is wound for high speed. The tradeoff for that is less low speed torque. I would guess that the top speed of your bike is a good bit higher than hers. There's always a tradeoff somewhere.

 

[highpockets]

Most likely your CCS motor has the copper wires wound for speed ( 6T ) and your wife's motor wound for torque or normal ( 10T - 12T ). Have you tried using the TAB function (throttle assisted boost) where you pedal and press the throttle at the same time?

I have tried the TAB. It does help topping out on the mountains. I also noticed the display at times reads at or near 1000 Watts when using TAB or Turbo setting. Oddly, sometimes setting 3 seems to offer more assist than the sport mode.

 

[highpockets]

The Juiced motor is wound for high speed. The tradeoff for that is less low speed torque. I would guess that the top speed of your bike is a good bit higher than hers. There's always a tradeoff somewhere.

Yes. The CCS is faster. The Voltbike cuts off assist at 20mph. Still the torque does not feel peppy compared to my wife's bike.
I feel the speed comes mostly from the difference in gearing though.
I'm going to pull Courts reviews and compare NM's.
I want to write my own 1000 mile review on how the bike performs on mountain terrain and wanted to figure the lack of torque out before my review. I would love to ride another comparably equipped CCS to compare apples to apples as it were.

 

[JeffMD]

Yes. The CCS is faster. The Voltbike cuts off assist at 20mph. Still the torque does not feel peppy compared to my wife's bike.

Did you not just read what was said? Your motor excels in one or the other, not both. Juiced is an assist bike, the throttle was only recently added. It was never intended to be peddle-less.

 

[highpockets]

Did you not just read what was said? Your motor excels in one or the other, not both. Juiced is an assist bike, the throttle was only recently added. It was never intended to be peddle-less.

I did read. I was responding to the statement: "I would guess that the top speed of your bike is a good bit higher than hers."

 

[youth]

Thanks for the tip on the narrow wide chainring. Only one day with the Deckel 52t one from Ebay & no drops yet. I was experiencing several recently before this & had one lock up to the point of destroying the derailleur cage. Thank goodness for having throttle that day.

 

[Itsmejson]

I just ran into an issue with my Crosscurrent. I was riding and lost the pedal assist. The bike was still on and when I looked down at the display all modes were flashing. Anyone ran into this issue? I recorded a video here:

(Link Removed - No Longer Exists)

 

[Bruce Arnold]

I just ran into an issue with my Crosscurrent. I was riding and lost the pedal assist. The bike was still on and when I looked down at the display all modes were flashing. Anyone ran into this issue? I recorded a video here:

(Link Removed - No Longer Exists)

I wonder if this article would be of any help.

 

[Macc]

Tora Harris said:
We notice some users have some difficulty with the battery install and some intermittent power over bumps. We have had a little bit of time to understand the issue. Here is why there are some tight fitting battery packs.

The down tube of the frames are extruded like pasta then cut to the length required. The tubes are then CNC cut out. Basically its a precise drill that cuts out that battery cavity section.

The big packs (17.4 and 21.0 Ah) we make our selves and have more control.

The standard packs 8.8 Ah and 12.8 Ah packs we buy from Reention (http://www.reention.com/product/2) the battery case, the upper and lower interface bits. The interface bits get screwed into upper and lower slots of the cavity that is cut out of the frame.

When you insert the battery, it should snap in and lock. Everything has to be millimeter precise or the pack will:

1. Rattle around and disconnect over bumps.
2. Be too tight and does not set all the way in and disconnect over bumps.

The tricky part from the manufacturing standpoint is that the parts are changing at different rates but they all have to come together with millimeter precision.

So the cavity of the downtube can be adjusted by adjusting the numbers in the CAD file which is used to CNC cut the tube, easy. The plastic parts are basically not changeable by us. they are injection moulded and sent to us, so we just buy it. Hard.

The thing is the company making the case and the battery parts sometimes make tiny changes to the design. We have to each adjust the CNC to the plastic parts. All this creates massive confusion, on a few of the Air bikes the section is a little too tight.

We have checked all the bikes as they come off the line and the battery can go in and lock solidly in place, yes but it is quite tight. Tight is better as the interface parts are plastic and can compress over time. There has been some reports from other assemblers of the pack being so loose they fall out. We have the opposite problem.

Most all of the packs that lost power is because the pack is not all the way seated and locked in place. One way to test this is to insert the battery, then try to pull the pack out without turning the key.

1. If the pack comes out without turning the key. It WILL disconnect over bumps.
2. If the pack stays locked in and can’t be pulled out, it is very unlikely the pack will disconnect over bumps.

The tricky thing on some of the bikes is the pack is so tight that tricks some users from thinking the pack is locked in when actually it is not. It is something like when you slightly close a car door. It seems closed, but its not really all the way closed. You have to use a bit of force to get it to shut completely. We found if you install and remove it a few times it gets much easier to do as the plastic beds in a little.

In the future productions we will have this issue solved, by firstly more carefully understanding the battery and interface bits more carefully before doing the CNC work.

So what if the battery still cannot sit in totally and lock in place even after pushing with more force? Contact our Tech support again and we have several ways to improve it and can get 100% of them to work normally.

Well, after using my 17.4 Ah battery for just under 3000 miles the ill-fitting case has started melting the plastic around the output terminal (-) due to the arcing I suppose. The plastic has melted so much now that it almost entirely covers the negative terminal connector thus making it unusable. I have been waiting about 2 days for a reply to my request for assistance. As the above statement from Tora suggests, it is a known problem, but they have chosen to ignore my plight (after a request for photos). I am beginning to have doubts that assistance will come so I have decided to attempt to replace the part myself (and I suspect I'll need to do this repair on a regular basis unless I can think of a more permanent fix to get better alignment), but finding it has proven difficult. Does anyone know what it is called? I've enclosed a photo of it below as well as one of how poorly my battery sits in the bike. Otherwise, I have been very happy with the bike, but I had heard going into the purchase that support would be long in coming.

Update: Well, I may have been too impatient. On the 3rd day I have received multiple responses and it looks like they plan to replace the entire battery rather than just the terminal.