Rooster
Active Member
I think I said, not all bikes and companies. All bikes over $1500 should have something other than the little red lights.
Known Issues & Problems with Juiced Bikes Products + Help, Solutions & Fixes
- Thread starter Ann M.
- Start date
Chris Hammond
Well-Known Member
So from the reporting of other owners, performance drops off significantly once you hit the 45V range. I know Reid, Bruce, and others had a bit of a discussion about this a while back, but I don't remember what thread it was on.
I remember the performance drop discussion, and that wont be a problem because I use assist only. I'll have to see how far I can drain it this time and see what the true floor is. Considering I have 60 mile on it in 3 charges of level ECO and 1 riding, the battery should have tons of power left that it is hiding.
Chris Hammond
Well-Known Member
Jeff,
This voltage chart should give you a rough idea of remaining capacity at a given voltage.
IMHO, finding the bottom as a single test may be worth while; but I'm guessing it's not going to be very fun as the bike performance will be progressively more sluggish. Also deep discharges of the battery negatively affect the longevity of the pack and should be avoided.
Rooster
Active Member
I guess I just like to know what's going on with my battery, hub motor temperature. The same reason you have a dash board in a car. I guess there are people that just ride or drive em till they break down or run out of gas or whatever and get a new one. I like to know what's going on with my bike so maybe I can make it as efficient as possible .
Yeah you should get a full display from CCS, and try to avoid riding below a 20% state of charge.. Those LEDs are worthless.
Rooster
Active Member
Thank you very much, that's what I'm talking about. You can't tell nada with that led garbage but it can be good for getting yur ass stranded and peddling your butt home and worse of all, draining a $1000 battery beyond repair but hey the little red lights were working. Obsolete, cheap, garbage but some are still using them trying to knock off a buck hear and there. I expect more than that out of my $2000. What gets me is that the same company puts the nice LCD display that is pretty much adjustable on bikes that are clearly cheaper. Especially when you buy a bike with a battery that is a 17ah Panasonic, supposedly, that if you had to replace it would cost you $1000. I would think you should get as much as possible to protect it. That is one of my top priorities on an ebike, maintaining the most expensive parts with a hundred dollar dashboard and not a $15 set of Christmas lights. But hey, that's another add on. Jeez, now even some of these super cheap bikes for less than $1000 have a dashboard that's with the times. We have the technology for the hd readout why are we still using this obsolete crap??
Fran Fabrizio
Member
FYI in my experience the low voltage cutoff setting of 42 actually acts like a cutoff of 43 (I think it's cutting off at 42.99999 - see earlier thread on this topic). If you start to experience cutout or chugging earlier than you think you should, try setting the low voltage cutoff to 41 and see if it resolves.
Jeffrios
Member
This is a nice chart, however I calculated 80 percent on a 52V to be a 56V charge level, not 55.4
Fran Fabrizio
Member
How'd you do the calculation? I've been trying to figure this out myself. It would depend on the discharge curve of the specific pack used in the battery, right?
Fran Fabrizio
Member
The 18650 cells have a max charge rating of 4.2V and a min charge of 3.0V before the IC shuts the cell down. So, 3.96V represents an 80% charge.
So, my 48V battery (13s) is at 80% charge at 3.96 x 13 = 51.48V, which is what the chart says.
For your 52V battery, if it also uses 18650s, that's 3.96 x 14 = 55.44V, which is what the chart says.
You rounded 3.96 up to 4, which yields 14 x 4 = 56V. You're both "correct", but the chart used more significant digits.
john peck
Well-Known Member
I look at this in terms of miles per volt. Initially, my mileage didn't begin to match that shown on the spec sheet, but
it has improved considerably in the past 2 weeks. There are multiple reasons, weight loss, longer rides with fewer stops,
charging at lower amps at a higher %. However, the most salient change has been going to a 50T chainring. At a
slightly higher cadence, I seem to be able to.assist the motor more for greater distances. I'm finding I don't have to
shift nearly as much. I've kinda found a sweet spot for my brand of pedaling. I train for higher cadence on a stationary.
It's really beginning to pay off. Mileage today was up 85% from what I was getting at first.
it has improved considerably in the past 2 weeks. There are multiple reasons, weight loss, longer rides with fewer stops,
charging at lower amps at a higher %. However, the most salient change has been going to a 50T chainring. At a
slightly higher cadence, I seem to be able to.assist the motor more for greater distances. I'm finding I don't have to
shift nearly as much. I've kinda found a sweet spot for my brand of pedaling. I train for higher cadence on a stationary.
It's really beginning to pay off. Mileage today was up 85% from what I was getting at first.
Bruce Arnold
Well-Known Member
Ignore the battery lights like Rooster said. They are not reliable and who knows why some manufacturers put them on? Frankly, I only use the "9-click" battery indicator on the LCD panel as a rough indicator. The LCD gives a voltage readout and this is much more preferable to me. Understand that when drawing heavy current it will go down more and if you draw less current it will go back up. So you have to learn how to use it. The best indicator is the total watt-hours on the Advanced stats. I reset the LCD after every charge so I have a fresh read.
Chris Hammond
Well-Known Member
Kinda splitting hairs. I didn't create the chart, but its a good reference tool.
Fran Fabrizio
Member
What I've quickly learned is that measuring voltage is an imprecise process anyhow, so once you get into the decimals you're really just looking at an illusion. You'll notice the readout on the bike jumps around quite a bit. My Luna charger is also wiggly - I'll charge to 80% and it'll cutoff at 51.3V. I'll unplug the battery and plug it back in 10 minutes later, and we're reading 51.9V. After a minute on the charger, it's 51.3V again.
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