Known Issues & Problems with Juiced Bikes Products + Help, Solutions & Fixes

I have a problem with my CCS. I can't stop riding it. It's an addiction; I may need an intervention.

Nothing to worry about; just simply find a nice hilly scenic cycling route like I usually do; in scenic New Jersey I generally go for the cycling to the highest point in New Jersey which would be at High Point State Park; also if anyone keeps asking why you are riding your bike so much and enjoying yourself way to much; just simply also tell them you are looking to get in the best physical shape of your life while you are bicycling and also visiting entirely new and interesting places to bike every time you go out; all to help you stay highly motivated and interested in pursuing your physical fitness conditioning goals while also having the best time of your life while doing it; even better yet still, ask them to come along to ride with you on their own bicycle to mutually share in a good recreational fitness cycling workout; no doubt they will also want to definitely get an electric bicycle by the end of the bicycle ride when they see and witness for themselves that you are genuinely having way to much fun.
 
I am still having issues with the chain randomly dropping off the front chainring towards the inside. It never happens during shifting and usually in a mid gear but I have set the derailleur limit screws anyway. Would shortening the chain increase the chain tension and maybe prevent this from happening? If so, how many links should I remove?
 
I am still having issues with the chain randomly dropping off the front chainring towards the inside. It never happens during shifting and usually in a mid gear but I have set the derailleur limit screws anyway. Would shortening the chain increase the chain tension and maybe prevent this from happening? If so, how many links should I remove?

Though the stock chain on my original CC was longer then needed, a new chain at a more correct length did not ultimately get rid of the issue. Seems to be a common problem with 1x setups so I think the only fix will be to put on some sort of chain guide. I've been meaning to see if I could do something with my 3d printer, but just haven't gotten around to it.
 
I am still having issues with the chain randomly dropping off the front chainring towards the inside. It never happens during shifting and usually in a mid gear but I have set the derailleur limit screws anyway. Would shortening the chain increase the chain tension and maybe prevent this from happening? If so, how many links should I remove?

Below please find the actual simple equation calculation; according to the specified Part Tools simple proper chain length equation using their stated and specified equation as followed and specified using CCS specific data known input parameter information:

Simple Equation: L = 2 (C) + (F/4 + R/4 + 1)

L equals 2 x 17.5inches plus (52/4 plus 32/4 plus 1)

L equals 35 plus (13 plus 8 plus 1)

L equals 35 plus (22) equals 57 inches

L equals 57 inches

L equals 57 inches for the actual proper total calculated chain length using equation above
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L = Chain length in inches. Round the final result to closest whole inch figure.

C = Chain stay length in inches, measure to closest 1/8". 445mm equals 17.52 inches calculated; rounded off to closest 1/8 inch equals 17.50 inches.

F=Front Chainring teeth

R=Rear largest cog teeth

Fractional conversion to decimal for 1/8" measurements:

1/8” = 0.125”
1/4” = 0.25”
3/8” = 0.375”
1/2” = 0.5”
5/8” = 0.625”
3/4” = 0.75”
7/8” = 0.875”

Use chart above to find decimal measurement.

F= 52Teeth Number of teeth on largest front chainring.

R= 32Teeth Number of teeth on largest rear cog.

The bicycle chain for the CCS should not be any longer and/or shorter than 75 inches.

The good news is all is not lost however if one has set the chain length to exactly 57 inches and the bicycle chain still does not stay on the front chain ring properly; simply just tilt the entire rear wheel axle and rear wheel that is held between the rear spreadable bicycle chain stays(sight directly down the parallel rear frame chainstays) ; with the rear wheel axle/ wheel slightly canted and tilted to the right side, that should help the bicycle chain stay on the front chain ring; this will help serve to counteract the former pulling tension forces to the inside(left) side of the chain ring; by now pulling instead now slightly to the right side by re-positioning the rear wheel canted and tilted at the axles slightly to the right side between the rear chain stay dropouts one can hopefully realign the rear wheel and its associated rear cogset to be in better perfect rear cog gear alignment with the front chain ring alignment.

Juiced Bikes has probably cut the length of the chain correctly for their CC bike; so its more likely that its a common issue with the misalignment of the rear cogs with the front chain ring; which also happens quite frequently also as well in the bike assembly process;

also make sure your high and low limit rear derailleur screws are adjusted properly so as to hit their high and low limit parameters; check to make sure that the "B" limit screw on ones Shimano Alivio rear derailleur is also adjusted properly also as well; the jockey pulley wheel should be between 2-3mm away from the largest gear cog on ones rear freewheel and/or rear cassette to help ensure smooth, reliable and crisp shifting.
 
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Below please find the actual simple equation calculation; according to the specified Part Tools simple proper chain length equation using their stated and specified equation as followed and specified using CCS specific data known input parameter information:

Simple Equation: L = 2 (C) + (F/4 + R/4 + 1)

L equals 2 x 17.5inches plus (52/4 plus 32/4 plus 1)

L equals 35 plus (13 plus 8 plus 1)

L equals 35 plus (22) equals 57 inches

L equals 57 inches

L equals 57 inches for the actual proper total calculated chain length using equation above
---------------------------
L = Chain length in inches. Round the final result to closest whole inch figure.

C = Chain stay length in inches, measure to closest 1/8". 445mm equals 17.52 inches calculated; rounded off to closest 1/8 inch equals 17.50 inches.

F=Front Chainring teeth

R=Rear largest cog teeth

Fractional conversion to decimal for 1/8" measurements:

1/8” = 0.125”
1/4” = 0.25”
3/8” = 0.375”
1/2” = 0.5”
5/8” = 0.625”
3/4” = 0.75”
7/8” = 0.875”

Use chart above to find decimal measurement.

F= 52Teeth Number of teeth on largest front chainring.

R= 32Teeth Number of teeth on largest rear cog.

The bicycle chain for the CCS should not be any longer and/or shorter than 75 inches.

The good news is all is not lost however if one has set the chain length to exactly 57 inches and the bicycle chain still does not stay on the front chain ring properly; simply just tilt the entire rear wheel axle and rear wheel that is held between the rear spreadable bicycle chain stays(sight directly down the parallel rear frame chainstays) ; with the rear wheel axle/ wheel slightly canted and tilted to the right side, that should help the bicycle chain stay on the front chain ring; this will help serve to counteract the former pulling tension forces to the inside(left) side of the chain ring; by now pulling instead now slightly to the right side by re-positioning the rear wheel canted and tilted at the axles slightly to the right side between the rear chain stay dropouts one can hopefully realign the rear wheel and its associated rear cogset to be in better perfect rear cog gear alignment with the front chain ring alignment.
I think he's trying to say the chain should be about 57 inches long not 75.
 
Though the stock chain on my original CC was longer then needed, a new chain at a more correct length did not ultimately get rid of the issue. Seems to be a common problem with 1x setups so I think the only fix will be to put on some sort of chain guide. I've been meaning to see if I could do something with my 3d printer, but just haven't gotten around to it.
SO today on the way to work my chain jumped twice and I was observing it and I finally discovered the culprit. When I switch gears while the motor is engaged (while pedaling) it causes the top portion of the chain to sort of whiplash due to the momentary slack in the chain while the derailleur is moving between gears because the motor is actively spinning and pushing the chain forward. If I put some sort of plate or chain guide right where the chain engages the front chainring I think this will solve the issue. Also I could just make a mental effort to completely stop pedaling while switching gears!
 
CFEF1121-026D-4090-AE20-0A921DBA8A17.jpeg
SO today on the way to work my chain jumped twice and I was observing it and I finally discovered the culprit. When I switch gears while the motor is engaged (while pedaling) it causes the top portion of the chain to sort of whiplash due to the momentary slack in the chain while the derailleur is moving between gears because the motor is actively spinning and pushing the chain forward. If I put some sort of plate or chain guide right where the chain engages the front chainring I think this will solve the issue. Also I could just make a mental effort to completely stop pedaling while switching gears!
Something like this?
 
385 mi., no appreciable issues so far other than pilot err. ( one needs to regard gravel cautiously )
( embarrassing, but no damage to self or bike )
 
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Yeah, that would work for me too. If there's an audience nearby I usually stand back up, dust myself off and start looking over my bike as if a mechanical issue was to blame for my lack of riding skills before riding off.
 
385 mi., no appreciable issues so far other than pilot err. ( one needs to regard gravel cautiously )
( embarrassing, but no damage to self or bike )

Glad to hear your were ok despite your gravel encounter; please do also leave a first impressions review of the CCS electric bike with all of it's pro's and con's along with any critical feedback and any accompanying pictures of your new CCS electric ride and any option(s) and/or customization(s) that were added; its always interesting to get such diverse overall feedback from electric bike forum members.
 
Glad to hear your were ok despite your gravel encounter; please do also leave a first impressions review of the CCS electric bike with all of it's pro's and con's along with any critical feedback and any accompanying pictures of your new CCS electric ride and any option(s) and/or customization(s) that were added; its always interesting to get such diverse overall feedback from electric bike forum members.

Well okay...let's see...hmm...well one of the mounting screws is missing from the LCD,(ziptie). Other than that it's pretty amazing.
 

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Well okay...let's see...hmm...well one of the mounting screws is missing from the LCD,(ziptie). Other than that it's pretty amazing.

That is absolutely wonderful to hear of your initial positive first impression feedback from your new CCS electric bike purchase; what is the "real life" CCS electric bike range on pure "eco" mode, pedal assist level 1, pedal assist level 2, pedal assist level 3; I have heard feedback criticism that even on pedal assist level 1 CCS draws at least eight amps; which since the CCS electric bike comes with its stock standard 12.8ah capacity battery; realistically that means one is only likely to get a run time of only one and a quarter hours of lithium ion battery run time at an average speed of 15mph; is that about right?
 
Range? That's hard to put a finger on. A) I'm a big guy, considerably heavier than the test rider & B) the topography I ride is
anything but flat. Depending on where I'm at, I use all modes & gears. Low volt kicks in at 4o, a full pack is 54. I try not be let
it get down below 45. I'm averaging between 4 to 6 miles per volt. Assuming I went down to 40 volts, that would be about 70 mi.
It's steadily been improving as I have lost 60 pounds since July. All I know is it climbs one hill here that rises 150 feet in a 1/3 of a mile
without inducing a heart attack on my part.81393.jpg 46d0c94dcea49098dd946262784a9e15.jpg
p.s. I have a 21Ah pack.
 
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