Known Issues & Problems with IZIP Products + Help, Solutions & Fixes

[Ann M.]

No ebike is perfect, this is a thread dedicated to sharing known issues or problems with electric bikes from IZIP as well as any help and solutions you know of. Sometimes that means a DIY fix and other times it can mean a recall, software update or part replacement by a dealer.

Please be respectful and constructive with feedback, this is not a space for hate speech. In many cases, representatives from the company will see feedback and use it to improve their product. In the end, the goal is to enjoy riding and help each other go further and be safer.

 

[topcatken]

No ebike is perfect, this is a thread dedicated to sharing known issues or problems with electric bikes from IZIP as well as any help and solutions you know of. Sometimes that means a DIY fix and other times it can mean a recall, software update or part replacement by a dealer.

Please be respectful and constructive with feedback, this is not a space for hate speech. In many cases, representatives from the company will see feedback and use it to improve their product. In the end, the goal is to enjoy riding and help each other go further and be safer.

I have had 2 Dashes. Both had troublesome Shimano brakes. I replaced the Shimanos on my 2014 with Sram BB7 brakes and problem solved.

 

[Al P]

My wife's 2016 E3 Vibe+ motor went bad after only two months. The guys at Currie didn't sound surprised. Their warranty service was excellent and we have had no further problems with the new motor.

 

[Hookwormer29]

My 2016 E3 Dash I bought on 5/3 had a pin on the battery mount offset, now the motor has just - pfft -- quit.

I'll let you know if the service works out for me. So far, I'm very much regretting my purchase.

 

[Ann M.]

Sorry to hear that you're having issues on that Dash, @Hookwormer29. Were you able to run the onboard diagnostics? Let us know what you find out from your shop.

 

[Hookwormer29]

I'm only seeing error code 1, I haven't gotten the diagnostics to work. If I'm not mistaken you hold the +/- buttons for 10 secs, correct? I've done that but it doesn't seem to do anything. I'm bringing it into my LBS tomorrow and hoping for the best on warranty coverage.

I should point out that the Dash is a fantastic bike, an absolute blast to ride. To those thinking about one, had I known what I know now, I would have bought the 2017 model despite the price difference. The 2017 model addresses the two biggest concerns/problems I've had - the semi-integrated battery holds it in place and doesn't allow rattle (which I worry has done unknown damage to my battery, as it has vibrated and rattled enough to dislodge pins in the battery mount) and the frame is built around the motor, protecting it from possible impacts and dirt/debris.

I put my bike up to get a look at the bottom of the motor and there is a gap that was letting dirt and dust in and from what I can see the inside of the casing is just caked with dirt.

Another thing to watch for is the wires that come off the handlebars and off the display. I tilted the display down once at night and the wires clipped the headlight while turning, bending the fender and separating the light wiring. The 2017 Dash has its headlight mounted just underneath the display on the bars, so that isn't an issue.

I'm bummed I can't ride my bike, I just got it this month, I'm nervous about the warranty - you never know how things are going to be covered. With the battery mount issue I think I'll need a whole replacement of motor (unless it's just a wiring issue) and a new battery and mount, and that's a tall order so fast after purchase but I don't want to pay $800 for a new battery down the line because this one has been rattling around the whole time.

The Dash also has fantastic geometry. The rise on the top tube helps gives the bike amazing stability when making sharp turns, I can zip around really effectively zigging and zagging, I don't know if that's just a feeling I have or a design either way it's awesome.

Hopefully I can get back on the road quick.

 

[Colorado Colin]

I have just got my 2016 Mid Drive IZIP dash and am experiencing a similar issue. I was riding in PAS 2 for most of the way, but then increased to 3 & 4 for the hills. When I went back down to 2 it seemed like the motor was dragging and holding me back (I was going about 20 mph at this point), I therefore had to put it back into 3 to get it spinning again. This seemed to happen once I had gone 10 miles plus when all the mechanicals had heated up. Riding in PAS 3 for long periods may be an issue as I have an 18 mile commute (one way) and being a smaller battery I have to conserve it as much as possible, especially as it loses power (I am thinking to the future).

 

[Ann M.]

@Colorado Colin, have you called 800-377-4532 and spoken with anyone at IZip/Raleigh Tech Support or contacted the shop where you bought it? This would be a warranty issue and their tech team are pretty darn good.

 

[Colorado Colin]

@Ann M. Thank you for the information ! I will get onto them and see what they say.

 

[Cameron Newland]

I have just got my 2016 Mid Drive IZIP dash and am experiencing a similar issue. I was riding in PAS 2 for most of the way, but then increased to 3 & 4 for the hills. When I went back down to 2 it seemed like the motor was dragging and holding me back (I was going about 20 mph at this point), I therefore had to put it back into 3 to get it spinning again. This seemed to happen once I had gone 10 miles plus when all the mechanicals had heated up. Riding in PAS 3 for long periods may be an issue as I have an 18 mile commute (one way) and being a smaller battery I have to conserve it as much as possible, especially as it loses power (I am thinking to the future).

Battery degradation is a problem that affects IZIP S-pedelecs far more than bikes from other brands. My 2015 IZIP E3 Dash has seen its range cut in half, from ~40 miles to ~20 miles, after ~3,000 miles. The display indicates a range at full charge of 31 miles, but that's unrealistically optimistic. Most IZIP S-pedelecs come with a 13S3P 48V battery that isn't up to the task of reliably cruising at 28MPH without degrading the battery quickly. If they had outfitted them with 13S4P batteries (adding an additional bank of 13 battery cells), not only would you get 33% greater range than with a 13S3P, your pack's cycle life would approximately double.

On some of the Easy Motion bikes I've ridden that have similar-sized (417Wh) batteries, they top out at around 25MPH, which helps to preserve the battery by limiting discharge current to ~15A/36V, whereas a lot of the IZIPs will draw ~20A@48V to cruise at 30MPH, and their battery heats up and degrades quickly at that level of discharge current.

 

[Hookwormer29]

Update on my situation -

I ran through the OBD before taking it into my LBS/izip dealer and the motor came on but not at all fully, and then it would cut out and the motor command readings would flatline. My motor died while I was using the boost button and the readings from that diagnostic didn't match any of the numbers from the manual - weird, gonna have to check that when the bike is done getting the new motor out on it.

I don't know what it's going to cost yet, and I am dead broke. I'm assuming it's under warranty.

There was an open crevice on the bottom of the motor and dirt was getting inside the casing, does anyone know if that's normal at all? It makes me nervous because my town is not very bike friendly and lots of dust in the road.

 

[Al P]

Our iZips both have the TransX mid-drive motor. I was unable to locate a crevice on the bottom of either motor. It doesn't make sense that they would manufacture it that way.

 

[Hookwormer29]

Our iZips both have the TransX mid-drive motor. I was unable to locate a crevice on the bottom of either motor. It doesn't make sense that they would manufacture it that way.

They didn't manufacture it that way. The casing isn't solid, it's two halves. If you hit something, or if something kicks up and smacks the bottom of the motor at 28mph - there's going to be a chance something could crack. As I addressed earlier, I wish I had purchased the 2017 model because the frame wraps around the motor.

I was wondering if the dirt inside the casing was normal, if it's okay for dust to get inside the motor casing or if it's a problem. And crevice was a bad choice of words, I meant that where the casing halves meet, there's a gap between them that allows dust to get in. Maybe it was manufactured that way. If my bike wasn't in the shop I'd snap a pic.

I'm just trying to figure out all this. Whether the dust/dirt is normal or not. If it's not, izip should specify that the Dash is a pavement only bike. I live in Iowa, lots of salt/sand on roads from winter and few bike lanes. If a motor crapped out in less than a month, I'd like to know as much as possible about it so I can avoid it happening again.

 

[Bud]

I am about 2500 miles deep into my 2014 Izip Dash. Haven't posted here in a while, but when I was early on in my ebike investigation and ownership I spent a good deal of time pouring over these pages and left impressed by the community's knowledge and commitment. So I wade in again in need of some real help, advice and guidance.

I purchased my a Dash at a local shop where I'd purchased bikes, accessories and services over the years. When I saw the Dash on their showroom floor I fell hard and purchased a few weeks later. My first 1000 miles were sublime. I was able to turn my commute into a sweatless event (my main purchase priority), although I soon found myself using it for weekend rides and explorations. Even my wife ultimately got on board and "authorized" the purchase of a (slightly) used Path+ for her and she loves it. And we love riding together. We've used them to tour NYC, Asheville, Charleston, the coasts of Florida and Maine to name just a few.

Unfortunately, many of those memories are marred by persistent problems with my Dash (the motor on my wife's Path+ failed but was replaced under warranty and has been fine since). I have been through two bottom brackets, a rear wheel, and a new motor over many too many service trips, customer service calls and emails. Yet here I sit, with trips to Pittsburgh, Burlington, and Montreal on the horizon and the bike is in the garage broken - again! (I acknowledge the "1st World" nature of my "problems", but it's where I live and what I'd like to change! Wah wah wah!)

Let me say: I love the bike. I have serious miles in my legs (including three 200+ mile-in-a-day endurance rides). Never have I ridden a more stable platform. I have upgraded the disk brakes and added fenders, rack, file cut tires and a few accessories. Izip customer service and warranty decisions have been excellent - in fact fantastically beyond expectation. I even got a few email responses from the Larry, the president of the company.

So with that background out of the way, I am currently in search of a well-experienced, knowledgeable and capable repair shop or independent mechanic who can help me sort this out. Currently the motor engages only occasionally in response to pedal stroke or pressure. For the past few months I decided to settle by riding with throttle only, but even in "T" the motor now cuts out when pedal effort increases (hills). I have several error codes and blank screens that get thrown intermittently and my odometer recently cleared back to "0" for some reason.

Chawn from Izip technical/warranty support has been great. He had provided every possible assistance. My limitations are the time, skills and tools necessary to carry out his suggestions. So I need a referral to a a shop or mechanic where I can take the bike for that "once-and-for-all" fix. Anywhere within a reasonable drive from northeast New Jersey. The mechanic to whom my local shop deferred to on the ebike repairs has left and I think I need to move on anyway.

Thanks for your interest and in advance for your reply.

PS - I recently learned Izip was running an incredible sale by offering a 2015 model for under $1,000. I almost pulled the trigger but I can't yet accept that I need to spend that kond of money again in order to restore the joy when I believe that in the right hands my wonderful ride can be healed. Peace and thanks.

 

[Ann M.]

@Bud, glad you got to talk with Chawn at IZip; I've worked with him for many years, probably the most experienced tech on their team! I found a shop in Verona NJ, The Electric Spoke Company that sells lots of brands of ebikes and has very high customer ratings. Give them a call at (973)-500-3082 and see if they can service your IZip bike.

If you don't mind driving a little bit, go to Propel Electric Bikes in Brooklyn NY. Very experienced staff. Call them at 718-643-4542.
Another shop located in Brooklyn, GreenPath Electric Bikes is the only one that lists various IZip models on their site and does emphasize their service side. You can reach them at 718-788-1181

 

[Jdgolf60]

Izip E3 Pro tour.
This is the transX motor.
My motor went out again this week. It was not electronic this time. A grinding in the motor. When I contacted my dealer and Chawn from Accell, the dealer told me they just put out a recall for these motors. He had the new motor in his store the next day.
I picked up the bike and rode it today.
All I can say is WOW what a difference. The shifts between gears is so much smoother. I was easily able to get the bike speed up to 28MPH even when I was not in the lowest gear. It is like getting a new bicycle again it is that much different.
When I turn the bicycle "on" it does not go through a smart-up sequence that it used to. It is just ready to ride.
Hopefully this finally solves the issues.

 

[Ann M.]

Glad to hear that Chawn and the Accell/Izip team took good care of you ; that's important. I've been working with Chawn for a lot of years with their Currie Tech/IZip/Accell ebikes and he's very knowledgeable and a pretty nice guy!

@Jdgolf60, post some pics and experiences with your ebike in the Garage forum or IZip forum. We would all enjoy hearing a little more about your rides and bike.

 

[Ann M.]

Moved this post by @FredBam to the appropriate IZip & Raleigh threads:

My LBS just emailed me the following "Raleigh Electric would like to notify dealers about a recent decision to implement a rework that upgrades all units of 2016 IZIP Protour and Raleigh Sprint IE with a new M25 motor & controller. The factory redesigned M25 motor & controller improves performance & durability of the flagship TranzX M25 system. Note that this is not a safety concern, but rather a quality improvement that Raleigh Electric is providing to dealers that purchased bikes featuring the M25 system."
Was there a fundamental flaw with the M25 system?
An I reading this correctly that I will get a new motor and controller?

 

[Don Severs]

I have had 2 Dashes. Both had troublesome Shimano brakes. I replaced the Shimanos on my 2014 with Sram BB7 brakes and problem solved.

Sounds familiar. I got my 2016 E3 Dash a month ago and have loved it, almost to death it turns out. I've put 800 miles on it and strained my relationship with my dealer/friend. Here's what happened.

The front brake started leaking fluid after 2 weeks. Using the back brake more often and braking from higher ebike speeds caused the back brake pads to wear completely away in 800 miles. I took the bike in for warranty brake replacement because the front brake leaked fluid and they couldn't bleed and recharge it because the reservoir cap was stripped. The dealer said Shimano won't replace just one brake, only both of them, under warranty. But he didn't think about labor. Running the back brake cables required that they remove the motor and they ran up 5 hours of labor, which Shimano doesn't cover. And I didn't even want the back brake replaced, only the pads, which I could have done myself.

Anyway, any idea what happened with my back brakes? How many miles should I get from brake pads? I know it depends on many factors, but wondered if you thought 800 miles was way too low or not. I think my case was a perfect storm of riding with no front brake plus lots of miles in my honeymoon phase...

Going forward, I'm going to check the pads every few hundred miles, and I'll upgrade them if I have any further problems.


PS
Also getting a new battery and headlight under warranty. I'm only getting 15 miles, which is on the low end of normal. But I'm also getting lots of flashing-red on the charger, indicating the battery or charger is too hot. This has led to no charge when I need it: if I plug it in and don't notice the flashing-red, it doesn't start charging>

The headlight issue is this. It has several detent clicks to adjust the throw of the beam. In the bottom click, the light turns off, which Izip support hadn't ever heard of. It wouldn't be a problem but sometimes the light clicks off when going over a bump on dark trails. So, they agreed to swap it out.

Glad izip has good support! I look forward to a few years from now when ebikes are as reliably as my 1998 Schwinn Mesa.

BTW, I wonder when Shimano, etc will update their warranties for the ebike era. Conventional components can't take the higher stopping speeds, etc. I expect the warranties to become more car-like, "2 years or 1000 miles, whichever comes first" and for the components to have an 'ebike' rating, and the warranty will be voided if you use non-ebike-rated components on your ebike.

 

[Izk]

2014 Dash user with 7000 miles now. Battery became useless at 5500 miles and I did the Luna Shark replacement Gadgetguy suggested which gets me 2X the original range now with no cold sensitivity. I did have a a few to many times of not noticing the flashing red charge light when getting home from a ride and missing the charge and changed behavior to not allow this to happen before going to bed.

I gave up on the original Shimano cable discs after 4 months since they ate the resin pads like candy. The speed and weight really makes pad life short if they are resin and especially on cable calipers since they really only actuate one side and wear out only one pad prematurely. I upgraded to Shimano SLX hydraulics 6000 miles ago and they have been totally bomber. I also upped the rotor size to the 203mm (8") which helps with heat and wear. Being an avid mountain biker with a good amount of downhill riding in the rain and mud and lots of bent rims, I have been totally committed to hydraulics since 2003 with my old Hayes. I also upped the rotor size to the 203mm (8") which helps with heat and wear.

Shimano had a few issues with their lower end hydraulics like the M394 and M395 and these lower versions only support resin pads. You need to go up to a SLX to support metallic pads or get some aftermarkets for the lower ends. Metallics last much longer and work better in the wet. They may be a bit more squeaky but it is worth it for pad life and feel. If you watch out you can pick up some of the last few year models of M666 or M675 for about $55 new on ebay. I grabbed mine from Jensen USA on closeout for $59. I have six sets of these SLX one three bikes and they are by far the best stopping, least cost, best reliability solution of anything out there. Plus no DOT fluid.

I have replaced the junk Suntour shock fork with the Rockshox Paragon Gold which is a true air shock with much more plushness and control. New quality Schwalbe Marathon Plus tires have cut down the constant flats after a year of riding on tons of glass/rocks/staples/metal.

I have had my bike for 2.8 years and put a lot of very rough miles through terrible Seattle streets with 9 months of rain per year. The bike replaces the cost of a car and parking which would be at least $500/month in this city. For these reasons I have been ok with throwing in some maintenance/replacement money since it is saving me so much on commuting and is so fun to be able to ride home in blowing downpours with hell traffic and not be impacted at all.

Overall, been happy with the midrange bike that gets me what I need and did want some upgrades once I got hooked.