Known Issues & Problems with ECOTRIC Products + Help, Solutions & Fixes

[Ratbuilder]

The KT controllers have 5 level assist. It smooths out the rougher 3 level of the 810LED.

I am sorry for being such a question type of guy, but the link confuses me. I do want to order the whole kit, is the part # 6MOSFET? Does the kit contain a KTLCD8H display? Do you have to order each part separately, or will it all be in the kit? See, I am just chuck-full of questions.

Thanks harryS. You said what you said about the throttle so that I would not need to remove the hand grip? I am ok with splicing the wires, I ALWAYS solder and heat-shrink all wire splices.

 

[harryS]

You have to either add or reject each options (speed sensor, LCD type, etc) . You either select an option pr select "without". Then you get a total price, on the order of $100 of you take everything,

If you're a splicer, then you can buy the non-waterproof kit. And all you need is a display.

36V/48V 500W 6Mosfets 20A Brushless DC Sine Wave Controller - PSWPOWER.com

www.pswpower.com

 

[Ratbuilder]

I am sorry for being such a question type of guy, but the link confuses me. I do want to order the whole kit, is the part # 6MOSFET? Does the kit contain a KTLCD8H display? Do you have to order each part separately, or will it all be in the kit? See, I am just chuck-full of questions.

Thanks harryS. You said what you said about the throttle so that I would not need to remove the hand grip? I am ok with splicing the wires, I ALWAYS solder and heat-shrink all wire splices.

Ok Harry, now the questions start. I got the controller kit today, and today I started to take the 20" apart. Question #1.....The brake lever wires (2) Blue and red coming from the levers go too different colors on the controller. (810) Blue to black and red to purple. Since it is just s 2 wire switch, it must open the circuit when you apply the brake. On the NEW controller the only 2 wire connector is red and blue, but there is just one. It Ys to another 2 wire connector, and the 2 are then Y into a 3 wire connector. All of these connectors start from 2 wires Green and blue coming from the controller. This set-up is for the purpose of putting the 2 brake switch in series, or am I off in left field about this?

On the 810 controller, the small wires going to the rear hub are 5 in number. The wires from the connector to the hub total 6. The new square connector on the NEW controller had 6 wires from the controller. They have the same colors as the wires from the connector to the hub. Do I just look the same colors to each other?

Can I use the same signal generator that is on the peddles for the NEW controller, or do I need to figure out how to attach the larger wheel with the magnets and the pickup to the peddles? The main wires look like a no-brainer. Red and Black to red and black, and blue green and yellow to blue green and yellow. The throttle red white and black go to the only red white and black connector on the NEW controller. Is this correct?

The NEW display will plug into a connector on the NEW controller.

This leaves 2, three wire connectors (red black and yellow) that are Y into 1 red 1 black, and 1 yellow that come from the NEW controller, without a home.

Also there is a red, black, and blue, 3 wire connector without a home. also on the same sub assy there is a 3 wire connector with brown, yellow, and black, that have no home.

I also am confused as to how to hook up the brake switch wires.

Please don't hate me Harry. I have done other wiring jobs, but this one scares me just a little. LOL

 

[harryS]

I am going to put your questions in another topic.. It will be easier to answer. ANyone else is free to join the discussion!
Click here or below

RAtBuilders Controller Project,

This Question was moved from another Thread, Ok Harry, now the questions start. I got the controller kit today, and today I started to take the 20" apart. Question #1.....The brake lever wires (2) Blue and red coming from the levers go too different colors on the controller. (810) Blue to black...

electricbikereview.com

 

[Forever Blue]

I have the DOLPHIN model & I unfortunately will have to return it. I only got to test ride it once. The throttle doesn't work, so I must have gotten a lemon. Also, I'm 5'3" & the lowest the seat height goes is 33" it says, which is a tad too high still for me. Anyone know if the seat on a DOLPHIN can be lowered? It doesn't seem so the way it's built.

 

[Ratbuilder]

Hi Gypsy. Sounds like you got a great deal. What brand/model stem extender does your bike have? I'm 6'5" and it looks like the handlebars need to be raised if I am going to be comfortable on this bike. Thanks!

I just looked online and got a 3" extender. It was still too low, so I got another 3" extender. I like it now. I am 6'3". This is on a 26 fat tire Ecotrix. The only modification to the controls was a 5.5" longer front brake cable. I got it at a Yamaha shop. They custom-made it for me.

 

[GypsyTreker]

I have the DOLPHIN model & I unfortunately will have to return it. I only got to test ride it once. The throttle doesn't work, so I must have gotten a lemon. Also, I'm 5'3" & the lowest the seat height goes is 33" it says, which is a tad too high still for me. Anyone know if the seat on a DOLPHIN can be lowered? It doesn't seem so the way it's built.

Did you get the throttle working? You would have to talk to a bike shop but I would think you could trim the seat stem and bottom of the seat post if your talking very minimal.

 

[Forever Blue]

Did you get the throttle working? You would have to talk to a bike shop but I would think you could trim the seat stem and bottom of the seat post if your talking very minimal.

No, but no worries anymore. They've been returned & I'm on the quest for new bikes! If you OR anyone wants to help give me ideas, please see my thread here:
https://electricbikereview.com/foru...folding-20-fat-e-bike-for-short-person.41444/

 

[JES2020]

No, but no worries anymore. They've been returned & I'm on the quest for new bikes! If you OR anyone wants to help give me ideas, please see my thread here:
https://electricbikereview.com/foru...folding-20-fat-e-bike-for-short-person.41444/

Glad you were able to return them , that company has known return issues.

 

[harryS]

Their 30 day free trial requires you paying for the return, but if you buy it thru Walmart for about the same price, you get Walmart picking up the return and WMT is pretty flexible.

I bought something from a 3rd party seller thru Walmart that didn't fit because I didn't check the dimensions. I was willing to pay the return shipping so I took it to Fedex and bingo, free return. They just scanned the label and said they would have boxed it if I had not already done so,


.

 

[GypsyTreker]

Glad you were able to return them , that company has known return issues.

Never had to return bikes but their customer service, for the few times I used them, were great. If I purchased again I would use WM, thanks for that tip HarryS!

 

[KYMACK]

Hey Gypsey Treker, couldn't agree more with you on the "jump" start with the LED display/controller that comes with some of the models. We have two of the 20" folders with them and upgraded (with HarryS help) to the LCD setup and wow, what a difference! It handles like it should in the lower assist levels and has lots of power in the higher assist levels. Another plus is with the LCD8H display you get larger power and mode buttons that are easier to switch PAS up or down while riding even with gloves on and it has a large color screen with mph, battery volts and more. We travel in a motor home and tow a jeep with the folders inside - the bikes are perfect around campground and beach trails. Have fun with yours!

Just bought the Exotic Dolphin for my wife. I'm not sure what you mean about the " jump" start, but low PAS on her bike does not seem to be low. To maintain slower speeds, she has to peddle twice, then coast, peddle twice, then coast, etc. Could there possibly be a problem with the controller?

 

[KYMACK]

Just bought the Exotic Dolphin for my wife. I'm not sure what you mean about the " jump" start, but low PAS on her bike does not seem to be low. To maintain slower speeds, she has to peddle twice, then coast, peddle twice, then coast, etc. Could there possibly be a problem with the controller?

Sorry, stupid autocorrect. Ecotric Dolphin

 

[GypsyTreker]

Sorry, stupid autocorrect. Ecotric Dolphin

Just asked my wife and she uses the throttle to get her initial start as she mounts the seat for a ride because it will eleviate the "jump". Also she said she is totally use to the 3 PAS controller and did not want the HarryS modification. She also said she pedals/coasts when on a crowded bike path, so I think your wife figured that out. My wife said she rarely uses anything but PAS1 for the workout aspect. PAS 2 or 3 are for sandy situations or to quickly catch up if I get too far ahead. ( I ride pretty much in 2-3 on my 26" fattie).

Hope that helps. She did say it took about 75miles after her first ride to get comfortable with the bike. She is getting closer to 900mi total and rides without actually thinking through the process, as we all mostly did on acoustic bikes.

 

[harryS]

Hi KYMACK. that's normal speed for the Ecotrics with the 810LED display option. If she had a bike computer, it would show about 12 mph, which is a little faster than most casual riding people on regular bikes. After a while, you get used to riding a little faster. They actually took one of their smaller ebikes, I think it's a 20: stepthru like the Starfish, and had the controller changed for a lower PAS 1.

 

[KYMACK]

Thanks guys. Appreciate the feedback.

 

[beachrider126]

To whom it may concern or can offer some help and understanding. I have an ecotric cheetah mountain bike 36v 12.5 Amp 500w motor. I constantly have problems after a full charge I take my bike out for a spin. I live in Daytona Beach and it's all city driving and flat. Only hills they have are bridges from the mainland to the beachside. I live only 7 miles to the beach. My issue is even after a full charge and I keep the battery inside my apt in a cool dry room, I cannot understand after just after say 6 miles usage of 3 miles out and about locally and 3 miles back I start losing battery power from full 5 bars down to 2 to 3 bars and I try to use peddle assist more than the throttle. I only use throttle to get through lights. Now my main question is Ecotric gave me a 450w 12.5 amp battery with auto shutoff after charge and I am concerned if 450w 12.5 Amp is powerful enough to hande a 500w motor which my guess could feasibly handle heavier amperage. When I first got the bike about 7 months ago it ran like a champ and I was able to go 14 miles with change to spare on a charge. I asked for another battery and I sent the original back and currently using another from a company who sells Ecotric. This second battery after only 3 months usage is dying faster than the original I had.

I have not changed anything out of the ordinary and I did only once get caught in a storm and I had about 1/4 mile to sweat it out until I got home. The claims they are waterproof is questionable because I get condensation in the display module on humid days. I am concerned if the digital module is bad and giving false readings that I have more power in the battery than what the module says. Is there a way to reset the module? Also, to my understanding most ebikes have an electronic governor to avoid the motor from overtaxing itself to go beyond 20 mph. I also know there are many factors of the weight of a rider the weight of the bike itself and wind resistance during movement and other physics. Plus under Florida law no bike can be beyond a class 3 but, my particular bike is a class 2. Nevertheless, if people are going to spend on average of $700 to $3000 for an ebike only to go a total of 6 miles and the battery craps out its not a good investment. The real marketing is reselling batteries not the bikes themselves. We buy a $1000 bike and $200 of it is the battery $300 for the motor and $300 for the frame and that's considered cheap.

Bike shops will just laugh to say you get what you pay for. I honestly don't know if there are enough bike shops in my area who know anything about fixing or tuning or understanding the technology of them. They just sell them for the commission.

So, we have to go to forums to ask questions and even then it's a guessing game to find out why these bikes are crapping out after a few miles of usage. I have a total of 300 miles since I got mine and if I do the math in about 7 months 300÷7 it's not even 30 miles a month. It equates on average of 1 mile a day. So, if they rate most ebikes to last 1000 miles on the motor and battery we should have a long relationship with an ebike. Unless of course China is not checking the stuff they make.

 

[harryS]

"When I first got the bike about 7 months ago it ran like a champ and I was able to go 14 miles with change to spare on a charge. I asked for another battery and I sent the original back and currently using another from a company who sells Ecotric."

The seller probably sent you a used battery that someone else returned. A new battery from a reputavle seller shouldn't do this. You have a crap battery, Nothing that you can do.

If you buy a new battery. get it with the cradle/base. That way, you can simply use the new base if it doesn't fit the existing one, which is likely to happen. Also check the reviews on the sellers before you order.







,

 

[derekg8881]

I posted this in a different thread but seeing as this thread if for ECOTRIC problem + solutions...I might as well see if anyone has any info on my situation.

I have the 20" Foldable Ecotric bike with the 36v12.5 AH battery and the battery seems to possibly be dead or malfunctioned of some sort.

It had been maybe close to a month since the last time I rode my bike and I charged the battery full or to near fully charged. So when I push the button on top of the battery to check the battery level (3 lights; 1 red and two green) it will dimly flash for a split second and then the lights will turn off even though I am still holding the button. This happens every time I push/hold the button. When you hold the button down the lights are normally a lot brighter and it stays on until you release the button. When I go to charge the battery the charger light will be red for a couple seconds like it's charging. During that couple of seconds, if I push the button on top of the battery, it lights up bright and stays lit like it's supposed to. That's until the battery charger light goes green and then it's back to what it was doing before which figures since the battery stops accepting current because the charger sees the battery as being fully charged. Here is a picture of the voltage:

My 1 year warranty just expired 3 weeks ago to exchange the battery for free so they told me right now it's going to be a little about $220 for a replacement which is absolutely frustrating when I probably have maybe 100 easy, leveled pavement miles on this bike in a year. It's never been ridden in the rain and the battery has ALWAYS been stored indoors. So for this to have problems right when the warranty expires is infuriating.

Can anyone help me possibly diagnose what's going on here and if it's fixable?

Thanks!

Well I'm back about 3 and a half years later. I did get the new battery and it was working well until recently. I really didn't put a ton of miles on this new battery. Maybe 200 at most but probably closer to 100-150. Last weekend was my first ride of the year and my battery was sitting in my room untouched/uncharged for probably 4-5 months. I charged it to full and went out to ride and this is where my weird issue begins.

I made it maybe 1 to 1 1/2 miles and my bike (20" foldable 36v12.5 AH battery) just shut off. I push the power button on top to check the battery levels and nothing lights up. I end up pedaling to my car, go home, take out the battery and plug the battery into the charger. I immediately turn the key to on after plugging it in and push the power button on top and it now shows full battery with the red and 2 greens bars. I put it in the bike, turn the throttle and the back tire starts spinning like normal. I go to ride it and after maybe 10 seconds of pedaling on the high setting with the battery on, it shuts off again. I took the voltage and it read 41.4v. It's just weird it completely shuts off but its as if as soon as I plug it into the charger, it resets the battery but then will only work for a tiny bit of distance before shutting off again.

Do I have another bad battery or is there something I can do to hopefully fix this?

Thanks!

 

[harryS]

That's the classic case of an unbalanced battery. It's got a bad cell group that's close to empty, but the other groups are full so the charge voltage appears great at 41.4V When you ride it, the bad cell is empty after a few miles. When you try to recharge, the good cells recharge quickly and shut off the charger, so the bad cells can never get filled. My Ecotric battery did this after 25 months,

Some batteries have balance circuits to address this issue, but most inexpensive batteries don't. As a result, there's no good fix, in my opinion. Low quakity cells in the battery are the root cause.