Yeah I removed the light from the seat already. I hate the way they try and make you keep the specialized seat. I have the light mounted to a WTB seat with some 3m double sided tape for now. Maybe zip ties in the future.
Kinect drilling a hole Retrofitting a Suspension Seat Post on a Vado SL 5.0 (lighting)
- Thread starter GuruUno
- Start date
Looks like Kinekt won't drill a hole for you anymore, so will definitely be using your guide when I get it. Also, couldn't get a short enough seat post, so I'll have to cut it down when I get it. I think default is 350mm. I need around 320mm due to my stubby legs.
kahn
Well-Known Member
- Region
- USA
- City
- northWET washington
I have the Kinekt on a few bikes. On one, the spring mechanism is bottomed out. In other words, the post at its lowest position cannot be lowered anymore due to the spring meeting the seat post clamp. Shortening the post would not help me.
Yeah. On the 2022 Vado 5.0 SL, there is a pretty large gap between where the post stops the seat tube and the seat. I had them cut it to 320mm and there is still a pretty good distance.
Then again. I didn't check. Maybe it's hitting the screws for the back bottle holder?
Then again. I didn't check. Maybe it's hitting the screws for the back bottle holder?
After riding on the Kinekt twice now, I really like it. Doesn't totally eliminate bumps, but definitely a lot better. The bumps that I do hit now, aren't as jarring. I did have to adjust the preload, otherwise I was bouncing a lot when pedaling. I think I'm at a 4 right now. I'm using the XR with Purple Red. I may try tightening a little more or go up a level in springs.
Also, I noticed that the reason the original Specialized seat post didn't slide into the seat tube as well as I would have liked was due to the wiring for the rear seat light getting in the way. I put some more of the wiring inside the seat post and get a lot more range without it getting stuck.
Also, I noticed that the reason the original Specialized seat post didn't slide into the seat tube as well as I would have liked was due to the wiring for the rear seat light getting in the way. I put some more of the wiring inside the seat post and get a lot more range without it getting stuck.
Fast n' Furious
Well-Known Member
- Region
- USA
- City
- San Diego
My 18month old, used a year KINEKT is turning 5 degrees at the post/ suspension juncture.
It was always a bit loose, but this started a month ago.
The post was tricked out from the start, Med and Light springs (me 139lbs) and the must have adjuster.
I ride like a Jockey. Never had a bottom out. Dialed in. It had to be me picking the bike up by the seat back.
I see you drilled into the suspension insert, which extends downward about 1".
So, thanks for the insight one can drill - and in my case install bosses/ rivets.
Cirrus is aware and I'm hoping It can be properly repaired. I purchased on a sale, elsewhere and it's past warranty.
I'm sure it won't be cheap.
I have the same post ordered on my WattWagons.
It was always a bit loose, but this started a month ago.
The post was tricked out from the start, Med and Light springs (me 139lbs) and the must have adjuster.
I ride like a Jockey. Never had a bottom out. Dialed in. It had to be me picking the bike up by the seat back.
I see you drilled into the suspension insert, which extends downward about 1".
So, thanks for the insight one can drill - and in my case install bosses/ rivets.
Cirrus is aware and I'm hoping It can be properly repaired. I purchased on a sale, elsewhere and it's past warranty.
I'm sure it won't be cheap.
I have the same post ordered on my WattWagons.
Alaskan
Well-Known Member
You should use heavier springs and less preload. Preload reduces the range of motion so you get less "suspension effect" Keep the preload around one and experiment with heavier springs until you find the right balance between seat bob while pedaling and bottoming out on potholes. Your tush will thank you. I gained a few pounds lately and started bottoming out too frequently with preoad at 1.5. At 190 lbs I was right at the border between black and orange springs (in the old color codes) I left the upper black in and replaced the lower on with orange, Now my preload is 1.0 I only bottom out if I fail to avoid a deep pot hole and the overall ride has really improved.
