Kindernay VII IGH and HYSEQ Onesie shifter

Something happened with Cycle Monkey. People put a bunch of deposits on the products they sell and Cycle Monkey stopped responding a few months ago and their website is recently down.

I hope I will get my money back for the Kindernay cage and oil I still have not received 3 months later.
They let thier Domain Name link expire. If they did not pay that bill, which is pretty inexpensive, they are most likely long gone and have no intention of coming back.
Hello, I'm on a bike tour and lost the torque arm and torque cap piece during my flight here. I had one made, and it functions, but the wheel wiggles slightly. I was wondering if someone could provide me with the CAD file for the torque arm cap? I already have the CAD file for the torque arm.

Thanks for your assistance!
The cap is only there to create the appropriate spacing and centering inside the wheel. It has different sizes depending on the width of your swing arm (148, 142, 135...)
In an emergency, you can just add washers to fill the gap on that side.
Below is the link to the cad drawing and step models of the part I made for my kindernay customization.
The ones call SPACER have the geometry you need, but the width would have to be reduced to match your setup
I'm having a shifting problem with my Kindernay 7 speed hub. When I gear down to the easiest gear and then gear up I can only shift 5 times. The up shifter lever seems to have 'bottomed-out' and will not shift into the last two higher gears.
I can't see any way to adjust the shifter and I'm wondering if the system needs to be bled.
Any ideas?
Doing the bleed procedure would be the first thing to do in case there is some air in the system.
Detach the shifter and try to shift it manually rotating the shifting drum to make sure this is the shifter issue and not the gearhub internal issue.
Scrambler & TPEHAK, thanks for the responses. I'll try the manual rotation first to see if its the gearhub and then the bleed if needed.
Last year I had a similar problem, with the hub not shifting into the highest gear. When I drained the hub I found that very little fluid came out. Once I refilled the hub the shifting returned to normal.
Thinking that this may be the problem (again), I took the wheel/hub off and drained the hub to see how much fluid came out.
Result.....nothing....not a drop!
I haven't ridden the bike since last November, but I did check, throughout the winter, for leaking and didn't see any.

I'll fill the hub back up and see if that solves my shifting problem.
It will not leak out immediately, it needs some time to start leaking out so you have to tilt it and hold it for quite some time, maybe for an hour.
Thanks TPEHAK....that's exactly what happened.
It looks like there was enough fluid. I'll put in new fluid and see how it shifts. If I still have difficulty shifting into 6th and 7th gear I'll bleed the lines.
I replaced the hub fluid and re-installed the back wheel. Unfortunately (but not a surprise) the hub will still not shift into 6th or 7th gear, so the next step is to bleed the upper gear line.
The bleed nipple takes a 5mm wrench, which I don't have. I've ordered one from Amazon and it should arrive in 3 or 4 days.
Did you try to shift manually? Does the shifter lever go full stroke up to the hard stop?
When I had the wheel off I couldn't figure out how to shift the hub manually.
The long lever, that shifts to an easier cog works fine, while the short lever, which shifts to a harder cog/gear, shifts normal in the easier gears, but as I shift upwards the throws become shorter and shorter, until the lever barely moves and 6th and 7th gears will not engage.
There is a shaft with splines on the shifter side of the gear hub. You can grip this shaft with pliers (maybe wrap the shaft with a piece of fabric to protect the splines from the pliers), hold the gear hub and the torque arm with another hand and crank the shaft with pliers. You will feel the indents rotating the shaft, those indents are gears so you can count amount of gears you can shift through to make sure you can rotate the shaft through all 7 gears.
I just hand cranked the shaft with pliers and it indented through all 7 gears, so it looks like (fingers crossed) that bleeding the line might solve the shifting problem.
I've bled the system a couple of times and was able to get the upshifts (small lever) to go through the full 7 gear range, but now the downshift, which was shifting fine, only shifts 1 or 2 gears.:(
I've downloaded the bleeding instructions from the Kindernay website and watched one of their short videos, but I'm still having a heck of a time bleeding the long (downshift) lever.
Anyone done this bleed? Did you just follow Kindernay's instructions?
Anyone done this bleed? Did you just follow Kindernay's instructions?
Did couple of times, pretty easy actually - there are two lines, with one connector on the shifter and two on the hub adapter. With two syringes process literally takes 10-15 minutes for both lines.
Do you have onesie shifter or twosie shifter? I have onesie combined with Kindernay VII and it can shift up to 2-3 gears down and 1 gear up (and it can shift 2 gears up one time somewhere at the higher gear).

I did bleed 2 times mine onesie shifter (first time is when I installed it on the bicycle and I installed new different longer hydraulic lines because of the original lines were too short and the second time is when the shifter developed weird behavior when I up-shifted and it kinda did not shift up completely and hit the hard stop before I feel the full indent (and it even shifted in between the gears sometimes because of it looks like it did not do the full stroke)).

I used 2 syringes with plastic tubes. Both syringes were half filled with brake mineral oil fluid, the first syringe is connected to the nozzle at the bottom of the line and the second syringe is connected to the nozzle at the top of the line. Then I opened the nozzles and pressed the fluid back and forth avoiding pressing the air in the lines. It is hard to explain but you have to imagine the syringes action sequence (pressing and sucking) and closing and opening the nozzles sequence and the shifter lever actuation sequence and amount of the syringes strokes to extract the air from the line. The way they show it in the video might work but I did it different more complicated way. Again it is hard to explain but you have to understand how the air and fluid move inside the tubes and where it can be trapped (like you have to compress the top syringe down first (but not completely) even it might press some air inside, doing this way you remove the possible air bubbles at the bottom first because of the air in the line wants to go up and you do not want to let the air in from the bottom for sure because of it will be significantly more difficult to extract the air if it gets in the line from the bottom. Then you have to orient the bottom syringe the way the air in the syringe at the top portion of the syringe (so you will not press the air in the line) and then compress the bottom syringe to remove the air from the top portion of the line and the stroke of the bottom syringe should be bigger than the top syringe stroke you did before to make sure you removed all the air from the top. Then jerk the shifter lever, compress the bottom syringe more, compress the top syringe and so on. Then close the bottom nozzle and pull and release the top syringe to expand the possible air bubbles inside the line so the remaining of the air can go out and be replaces by fluid when you compress the top syringe back).

Very important (and they did not mention it in their manual for some reason)! After bleeding the line close the bottom nozzle first, then compress the top syringe making sire no air goes in the line and close the top nozzle. Then open the bottom nozzle, compress the bottom syringe making sure no air goes in the line and close the bottom nozzle. If you do not do this you might have what you experience now.

Then bleed the second line the same way. And then maybe go back to the first line and bleed it this way again (because of the lines are linked through the mutual top nozzle on the onesie shifter).
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