Just joined the e-bike world - wow!

[Ringo9]

I have done over 2500 klms and haven’t experienced any chain slipping and I am still the original drivetrain. My bike uses a SRAM 12 speed drivetrain (NX 11-50 cassette and GX everything else). Once I dialled it in on purchase, this drivetrain has been absolutely faultless ever since.

One of the first things I did was change the standard (40 tooth ?) chainring to a 48 tooth chainring which is the largest I could fit without hitting the frame, and without using spacers. The larger chainring did require extending the chain with more links. The larger chainring kept me out of the smallest cogs (reducing wear) when cruising at typically 40 klm/hr. I also only use the lowest level of assistance unless I want a faster cruise speed - the Frey Beast is limited to 60 klms/hr.

I have the Alivio 9 speed drivetrain on my other ebike and yes I have experienced chain skipping in sixth gear after around 800 klms. The local bike shop fitted a new shorter 10 speed chain and this has been fine ever since, with crisper shifting.

I would firstly check the hanger alignment with an alignment tool rather than the naked eye.

Interesting. I have now received, after recommendation from the manufacturer, a hanger extender to try and see if it cures the slipping, and a replacement hanger all-together if the extender does nothing to address the issue. I'll try those first before considering swapping the drivetrain to something more expensive. I also got a gearsensor to throw on it to preserve the drivetrain for longer (didn't come with one).

My bike came with a 50T chainring from factory so I don't think there's anything more to change on that front?

edit:... Yeah a quick Google search indicates that the battery is probably proprietary. I wouldn't say that they are an established brand, but they do seem to have a faithful following. If you did want to play it safe and not rely on finding a third party rebuilding service I do like the previously proposed solution of adding a battery to the rotation. That said I'd want to be confident about long term ownership first.

Also... Do you know which version of the M620 you have? UART or CANbus?
Reason being that the UART version is end user tune'ble and you can tweak each PAS as you like as well as smooth out the acceleration curve if need be.
Easiest way to tell is to look at the display connector
View attachment 197347

I agree. I like the 2-batteries rotation but again I only got the bike a month ago, never into e-bikes before, love it so far but I would like to confirm long term ownership before spending another 500$ for the second one. I guess it can wait another year.
I have the newest CANbus version which I've read is much more limited in adjustability. Not a problem as I'm not after specific characteristics, I quite like it as it is for what I do (which is not any demanding use). Still, for someone who has tweaked and tuned every car I have ever got, If I had the chance to play with it I would.

 

[Ringo9]

Dude,.. Seriously, How long are your crank arms ???

WTF Have you gots goin on here ??,..

View attachment 197341


Maybe 2" long cank arms instead 1" long would help ??

What you have is a moped.
Same as I have,..
But my pedals and entire crank system are entirely functional.

Good for you for your generous input to your torque converting cranks for recognizing that you were helping

With your ENORMOUS Crank arm/Pedal clearance, you could easily lose an inch or so for a more street oriented tire.

Uhm, not sure what you mean, I am on the original 170mm Bafang crank arms and original pedals with which the bike left the factory. Are you saying there is a design fault with that? and if so which dimension/clearance are you talking about in specific?

PS. No it's no moped, for me at least, I choose to pedal constantly and to always be in a tough/high gear for the conditions so as to be exercising the whole time. I never use the throttle (I have pushed it further down the handlebar recently only because removing it seems a struggle) and I never ghost-pedal either.
The only thing the motor does for me is cutting my trip times to 1/2-1/3 but I bike as hard as I would on my regular bike, that's been my approach.

 

[Ringo9]

Guys, my tires are just fine thank you!!

They are Kenda GIGAS 26.x4.0" Knobby but not the knobbiest out there (pic below) . I feel like they are meant as a light SUV/urban tire? I go through off-road terrain without issues but at the same time I have not noticed any traction loss even at 30km/h corners (on pavement), once you put your weight properly it turns surprisingly well for what you'd expect and it's not given me a hint of losing contact once.

My regular speed is 30-35km/h and only do 40-45 on some longer asphalt straights and for a short time. I usually go with PAS2/5 and only switch to 3/5 when in a rush and on a free straight. Battery is almost always drawing <15A

 

[PCeBiker]

Uhm, not sure what you mean, I am on the original 170mm Bafang crank arms and original pedals with which the bike left the factory.

The angle of your picture made it look like you had a crank system these scooters,..

The crank and pedals on those mopeds are only added so they can be legally called an "e-bike" instead of an electric vehicle.
They are almost completely useless.

Guys, my tires are just fine thank you!!

They are Kenda GIGAS 26.x4.0" Knobby but not the knobbiest out there (pic below) .

Yeah, your tires look like they have lots of contact with the road.
My original Kenda Knobby tires would have been almost unsafe on pavement.