IZIP E3 Protour‎ coming soon?

Thanks for spotting that. I am very interested in how the mid drive integrates into the battery box/tube or however that is being done. My 2014 E3 dash is just a part of my routine now and never gives me a hint of trouble after I upgraded the brakes and installed the Jones H-bar.
So I am in no hurry to upgrade, let's see what 2018 brings.
 
OK, same size battery, 10 gear up from 9, hydraulic brakes, comes in three sizes, comes with light/rack/fenders/built-in rear wheel lock. Also a TranX suspension seatpost.
 
E3 will have the same 28mph top speed.
Looks like it lost it's "throttle mode"
• Pure pedal assist with optional boost button for instant power.

It's a 350w center drive for the Dash, not 400w (Same as the Peak)
350W Currie Electro-Drive®



Can't wait for a review.
 
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That bike has spiked my interest. My concerns are: 1) I don't see anything about shift sensing 2) dissipating heat 3) its brand new. 4) its a Currie bike. Other than that it is awfully compelling.
 
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@Vern I was trying to decide between that bike and the specialized turbo x. What would you recommend? With the city kit on my turbo it will cost about the same as the izip. The 2 things that spark my interest with the izip is the mid drive motor and the top speed. The 2015 Izip it was easy to maintain 29-30 mph on flats and I assume the new pro tour will be the same whereas the specialized it seems to take a lot of work to get over 26 mph. My purpose for purchasing is reduce my commute time on a comfortable bike. I commute 17 miles one way and can charge at work.
 
Logan Gogarty said:
@Vern I was trying to decide between that bike and the specialized turbo x. What would you recommend? With the city kit on my turbo it will cost about the same as the izip. The 2 things that spark my interest with the izip is the mid drive motor and the top speed. The 2015 Izip it was easy to maintain 29-30 mph on flats and I assume the new pro tour will be the same whereas the specialized it seems to take a lot of work to get over 26 mph. My purpose for purchasing is reduce my commute time on a comfortable bike. I commute 17 miles one way and can charge at work.
Click to expand...

If primary purpose of getting an Ebike is to reduce commute time, you'll need a s-pedelec.
I use Ebikes mainly for commuting and if you have not looked at Easy Motion lineup, take a look at Easy Motion NEO Nitro.
It's uses slightly older NEO series design but I can hold 25mph nonchalantly. My commute is ~30miles one way and it takes up the whole battery averaging 22mph but 17 miles can be done with 60% battery and you can charge it at office.

The other two choices I would suggest you are..
(these two offers you 500+Whr battery and 28mph capability)
Stromer ST1 platinum
OHM XU 700 16

If you can get a Spl Turbo X with the City Kit, that's a good choice too.
 
Ravi
Did you get a chance to ride the pro tour at interbike? You don't seem to be a fan.
It seems like you are liking the Neo Nitro. I do like those. What about the newer Nitros?
I might have to get an older Neo Nitro before they're gone.
I really like the Easy Motion bikes.
 
Vern said:
Ravi
Did you get a chance to ride the pro tour at interbike? You don't seem to be a fan.
It seems like you are liking the Neo Nitro. I do like those. What about the newer Nitros?
I might have to get an older Neo Nitro before they're gone.
I really like the Easy Motion bikes.
Click to expand...

Hi Vern,
EVO Nitro's are kickass. 48V, 10.4 Ah battery with 500W motor.
These nitro's, when freshly charged, can easily do 32mph on flats. Anyway, I did ride the ProTour and it's a nice bike.
You can say it is a slightly more refined version of the E3 peak with all the accessories. 8.7Ah battery is not that impressive. There is no shift sensing unfortunately.

I'm not a big fan of mid-drives (not just pro tour, any mid-drive) partly because they are not suitable for high-speed commuting.
Even if they do reach 28mph, their efficiency isn't any better than a good hub drive. Where they really shine is .... off-road and hilly areas. Some of the Bosch bikes are in 40lb range and they are very responsive and I like that.

I don't want to sound like a snob but I do think there is a place for bikes like protour. They are common man's "Bosch"

I like Accell's strategy. They are flooding the market with a whole range of bikes.
From Izip vibe --> Protour, from Raleigh ----> Haibikes.
You can pick what you want. 50 shades of Accell ;)
 
Today the computer controller on my 2014 Izip Dash broke. By this I mean the control buttons no longer control the bike. My routine is to turn on the battery and let it run it's diagnostics on the LCD. Then I press the power button and it does its own countdown on the LCD. Now I am ready.

I was able to press the plus minus button and scroll through T,1,2,3,4 levels of assist. Now it is stuck on 1 or 0. The plus minus button doesn't work, but the on off power button sometimes goes from 0 to 1. That's it. Strange.

I have tried to unplug the charger from the wall and reconnect and various other combinations of turning off the battery but nothing helps.

Does anyone have any ideas on how to remedy the problem. This is the first time ever I have had a problem with the controller.

Thanks
 
My wife has a Metro. When hers does that we remove the computer from its mount and re attach it and it has been fine so far. You have probably already tried that if yours comes off too..........
 
I haven't tried that. I can remove it but it the two wires are hard wired so can't unplug. One wire to the control button pad; the other to the battery.

Do you simply take the LCD off the handle bars and put it back on?
 
Ralph said:
Thanks. Can't hurt to try. I appreciate your help.
Click to expand...
@Ralph the control systems on the Metro and the Dash are two separate systems. Try removing the LCD as well as the button pad then pluggin them back in. You will need a small screw driver and some patience. There will be two harnesses in the back of the LCD (larger one removes first) as well as a harness in behind the button pad. Sometimes if these become loose it may do that. If that doesn't work, i'd take it to your local service center and see if you are still under warranty. Sometimes, the fault may be in the junction as well (plastic piece that holds a couple wires together).
 
Steve, Thanks.

It is still under warranty. I will try what you suggest though. Might be as you say, a loose wire or connection. I appreciate your assist.

Ralph
 
Ron, Steve,

Thanks for the help. I took it to my LBS who got support from Currie. He loosened the three screws on the back of the LCD.
The short wire is to the control pad. He reseated the control pad plug and the LCD plug, re-attched the cover and it worked fine.
The challenge was observing that these were plugs, not individual wires.

Problem solved and I appreciate your help.

Ralph
Currie001.png
 
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