Is 11-Speed Overkill on eMTBs?

[Johnny]

>8,000km should be possible with a centre drive
The original chain supplied on my Shimano E8000 ebike was a KMC X10e
I did 10,843 before having to change

I am baffled with these experiences, seems whether people are getting amazing mileage like yours or quite a short mileage like mine.

I have worn 2 kmc x10e and I am not satisfied with the chain life as it is only around 1000-1200miles each.

I would be very interested in some information such as:
What was your cleaning/ lubing schedule(of course which lube did you use?), what kind of conditions did you ride? Which assist level did you use, what was your average cadence power?

 

[E-Wheels]

I am baffled with these experiences, seems whether people are getting amazing mileage like yours or quite a short mileage like mine.

I have worn 2 kmc x10e and I am not satisfied with the chain life as it is only around 1000-1200miles each.

I would be very interested in some information such as:
What was your cleaning/ lubing schedule(of course which lube did you use?), what kind of conditions did you ride? Which assist level did you use, what was your average cadence power?

I use 15W40 motor oil to lube chain
Lube once a week (every 400km)
I never clean the chain, as the light oil flushes out any grit
Use Eco power assist for 90% of the time
Ride mostly (80%) in dry, sandy conditions (Australia) with light rains in the winter months
I run a 38T chain wheel with a 10SP 11-23 cassette
The close ratio cassette allows me to find the ideal gear to maintain a 85-90 cadence whilst keeping the straightest chain line as possible
Back off pedalling when you change gears

 

[Captain Slow]

>8,000km should be possible with a centre drive
The original chain supplied on my Shimano E8000 ebike was a KMC X10e
I did 10,843km before having to change

Wow, that is amazing. On my road bike I can't get anywhere near that kind of mileage out of my chain. Do you clean and lube your chain every week or something like that?

 

[Johnny]

I use 15W40 motor oil to lube chain
Lube once a week (every 400km)
I never clean the chain, as the light oil flushes out any grit
Use Eco power assist for 90% of the time
Ride mostly (80%) in dry, sandy conditions (Australia) with light rains in the winter months
I run a 38T chain wheel with a 10SP 11-23 cassette
The close ratio cassette allows me to find the ideal gear to maintain a 85-90 cadence whilst keeping the straightest chain line as possible
Back off pedalling when you change gears

Thank you very much for the info , that actually tells a lot, larhe chainring, consistent mid-high cadence(less torque and stress for the chain I guess) and keeping the chain straight. All great practices.

What is your average speed btw?

 

[E-Wheels]

What is your average speed btw?

Being in Australia I’m limited to 25km/hr max motor assist
I usually average somewhere around 21-23km/hr, as the Shimano E8000 motor is easy to pedal above the 25km/hr limit

 

[GrandPaBrogan]

Yeah, I've often wondered the same thing too.

But the term eMTB spans a very broad spectrum. Different motors have different torque outputs, riders have different riding techniques or goals, battery capacity varies as well as trail topography - they all change the gameplay entirely. It all depends on the bike and how and where it's being used.

Riding specifically for gaining fitness or extracting maximum mileage out of one battery charge - would require running on the lowest or ECO mode as much as possible. With the extra 10 or so kilos on eMTBs, that would get close to mimicking riding a manual bike. With a restricted Class-1 eMTB, a 10 speed cassette (or even an 11speed) has benefits because limitations of human energy and cadence management is still very much present in that equation.

On the other hand a non-restricted Class-3 eMTB with 500W+ motors and large battery capacity can be shifted electrically (by just scrolling up and down the power-modes), and so minute increments in cassette cog sizes is not that important - as well as a high number of cogs for that matter. A 9 speed or even a 7 speed with a thicker chain might make better sense in that configuration.

The market of course represents both extremes and everything else in between. I guess manufacturers have to cater for various user-preferences and eventualities to make their products adaptable.

I've got a 10-speed 11-36T cassette in mine and even on steep climbs I've never had the need to use the 36T cog, and I find myself always shifting at least two clicks most of the time to get to the right gearing. I was thinking of upgrading to an 11-42T cassette until I saw the weight of those things. So I'm now considering to go down to a lighter 11-34T cassette - but I bet the moment I do that, I'll end up on a trail where I would need the 36T!

.

 

[33red]

Yeah, I've often wondered the same thing too.

But the term eMTB spans a very broad spectrum. Different motors have different torque outputs, riders have different riding techniques or goals, battery capacity varies as well as trail topography - they all change the gameplay entirely. It all depends on the bike and how and where it's being used.

Riding specifically for gaining fitness or extracting maximum mileage out of one battery charge - would require running on the lowest or ECO mode as much as possible. With the extra 10 or so kilos on eMTBs, that would get close to mimicking riding a manual bike. With a restricted Class-1 eMTB, a 10 speed cassette (or even an 11speed) has benefits because limitations of human energy and cadence management is still very much present in that equation.

On the other hand a non-restricted Class-3 eMTB with 500W+ motors and large battery capacity can be shifted electrically (by just scrolling up and down the power-modes), and so minute increments in cassette cog sizes is not that important - as well as a high number of cogs for that matter. A 9 speed or even a 7 speed with a thicker chain might make better sense in that configuration.

The market of course represents both extremes and everything else in between. I guess manufacturers have to cater for various user-preferences and eventualities to make their products adaptable.

I've got a 10-speed 11-36T cassette in mine and even on steep climbs I've never had the need to use the 36T cog, and I find myself always shifting at least two clicks most of the time to get to the right gearing. I was thinking of upgrading to an 11-42T cassette until I saw the weight of those things. So I'm now considering to go down to a lighter 11-34T cassette - but I bet the moment I do that, I'll end up on a trail where I would need the 36T!

.

I suggest you keep an easy gear. That might be helpfull if the battery gets empty or any problem that makes you pedal your heavier bike unassisted.

 

[GrandPaBrogan]

I suggest you keep an easy gear. That might be helpfull if the battery gets empty or any problem that makes you pedal your heavier bike unassisted.

Yes, I've come to the same conclusion. I'll stick with the 11-36T cassette for now.

Interestingly, my other eMTB (now my wife's) has a 9-speed 11-34T cassette and I've never found that to be lacking in the two years that I've had it... and we ascend some steep fire-roads as of late. Granted we ride at recreational pace and forest service roads are relatively smooth with no tricky obstacles.

I've used the 34T cog only a few times on my own, over very tricky steep sections with exposed roots and ruts - and as long as I don't loose my balance (that's the biggest hurdle for me because the bike is so slow on that gear), the motor on highest power setting is more than capable.

But yeah, I better keep the 36T on my new bike for the odd ultra-steep climbs.