Input for long range commuter build?

[mikeschn]

Language barrier here, sorry - what is box fan shell?

The tube is >2" diameter and thin walled, so I want any type of fixture to squeeze as uniformly around the tube as possible. Today's idea is fixing a mounting rail using 4-5 regular hose clamps, I imagine that will be pretty gentle to the tube. Unfortunately the tube is not entirely round so the type of clamps that @mikeschn suggested will not fit well (unless they are machined to the exact profile of the tube).

As for dimensions, I would have a hard time locating a 13/32" drill or a #10-32 screw. Anything in this size range is millimeters here, as you say.
But I have never heard of restrictions on consumers buying machine screws. Anyone can buy any type of screws they like, as long as you find a supplier who will sell small enough quantities.

My brackets are custom designed to fit the tube. I am going to be doing a new bracket to fit the triangle shape of the cypress down tube. I would think you could machine any shape you want out of delrin.

Another option is to machine a delrin rail and secure it to the downtube using hose clamps, or cable ties... something like this maybe...

The shape of my down tube! ha!

 

[4speed]

A box fan is an appliance of 24"x24"x5" containing an electric motor and a fan. These appear regularly on the curb at garbage day. Especially in the spring. Conversion of inches to centimeters is accomplished by multiplying by 2.54 .
The shell of the box fan is the sheet metal wrapper. The grills front back are plastic and not useful. Neither is the stuck motor. Box fans are easier to cut up than toaster or microwave ovens, or washers or dryers. The leftovers will fit in a trash can.
If you use 5 mm screws, you will need a clearance drill for 5 mm. Exactly the same size is not recommended.
Sorry I can no longer provide pictures. Pictures are produced by ****ese appliances which I refuse to buy.
I emit extreme sarcasm at the Euro recycling, food, electric bicycle, appliance housing and other regulations. It appears to be prohibited in Europe to repair any appliance, especially sound equipment. This would deprive the local government of their recycle fee. Also deprive huge party donor corporations their profit at replacing appliances every 5 years after they cease to function. Most of the foods I eat are prohibited in Europe, also. Funny, I'm not dead yet.

Box fan, got it!

As for repairing appliances in Europe, there has to be some misunderstanding. There are manufacturers that are most unwilling to supply parts or documentation, sure. That is mainly a matter of commercial decisions though, and not by regulation. People have their refrigerators, dish washers, washing machines etc repaired all the time. Some things are not economical to repair though, like most microwaves. Sound equipment is frequently repaired as well, I have been part of the professional audio community for 35+ years and broken things are indeed fixed. There are few recycling fees that apply to consumers that I know about, they typically concern specific types of goods like tires and car batteries for example.

That said, there are indeed more than enough of detailed EU regulations...

 

[4speed]

My brackets are custom designed to fit the tube. I am going to be doing a new bracket to fit the triangle shape of the cypress down tube. I would think you could machine any shape you want out of delrin.

Another option is to machine a delrin rail and secure it to the downtube using hose clamps, or cable ties... something like this maybe...



View attachment 124005

I like that rail! That has to be the way, thanks for the eye opener. I will attempt something like a Quad Bob (my battery is 15 lbs), either thick enough to cut threads in the rail itself or rather just inverting the battery screws.

 

[4speed]

Another option is to machine a delrin rail and secure it to the downtube using hose clamps, or cable ties... something like this maybe...

Quick and dirty, a Quad Bob HD.
1 mm rubber sheet on the tube and this should stay in place.
(Normally wouldn't use slotted screws but they were the only countersunk I had with the right length.)

 

[mclewis1]

I like the idea of a bigger more robust BoB for those 10lb+ batteries, especially for Aluminum or CF frames. I see you're not bothering with any use of existing nuts on the frame, so just straps. I also like the increased surface area on the "outriggers". That design should work on a variety of rounded frame shapes.

 

[4speed]

I like the idea of a bigger more robust BoB for those 10lb+ batteries, especially for Aluminum or CF frames. I see you're not bothering with any use of existing nuts on the frame, so just straps. I also like the increased surface area on the "outriggers". That design should work on a variety of rounded frame shapes.

Yes, I wanted a little extra width. The existing rivet nuts would have been of little use; the tube is so thin that lateral/bending force in the nuts may damage it.
The slanted portion of the "outriggers" will fit a tube between 50-55 mm.

It is a super easy piece to make, but because the machine I used is quite small I had to reposition the piece twice for every cut, so it still took a couple of hours.

 

[mikeschn]

Yes, I wanted a little extra width. The existing rivet nuts would have been of little use; the tube is so thin that lateral/bending force in the nuts may damage it.
The slanted portion of the "outriggers" will fit a tube between 50-55 mm.

It is a super easy piece to make, but because the machine I used is quite small I had to reposition the piece twice for every cut, so it still took a couple of hours.

I'm jealous. I don't have a mill or cnc router! I'll have to settle for 3D printing... maybe carbon fiber...

 

[4speed]

I'm jealous. I don't have a mill or cnc router! I'll have to settle for 3D printing... maybe carbon fiber...

I am jealous of the 3D printer.
We have a small workshop at work that I can use, with small manual machines but still.
I imagine 3D printing a similar rail would work too. If the tube profile can be replicated close enough and follow all the way over the width of the rail (as opposed to the U-shape of mine), there will be little spreading force.

Are the brackets you showed on the yellow bike printed?

 

[mikeschn]

I am jealous of the 3D printer.
We have a small workshop at work that I can use, with small manual machines but still.
I imagine 3D printing a similar rail would work too. If the tube profile can be replicated close enough and follow all the way over the width of the rail (as opposed to the U-shape of mine), there will be little spreading force.

Are the brackets you showed on the yellow bike printed?

Yes those are 3D printed. I outsourced those, just to be sure. They are PA12 Nylon.

My printer is not SLS, it's FDM. so I will have to experiment with filament that has strands of carbon fiber in it.

 

[Mike TowpathTraveler]

Yes those are 3D printed. I outsourced those, just to be sure. They are PA12 Nylon.

My printer is not SLS, it's FDM. so I will have to experiment with filament that has strands of carbon fiber in it.

View attachment 124398

Help me along here. That bike has a rear shock. If I can safely and reasonably assume the rear shock is also accompanied by a front shock; has any consideration been taken into figuring the suspension travel smashing right into that battery casing? Not to mention the debris like mud, water, being flung onto the battery by that front tire.

Regards to the Cannondale commuter bike in post #20, that bike is just begging for the @PedalUma treatment, mid-drive Tongshen TSDZ2 motor.

 

[4speed]

Regards to the Cannondale commuter bike in post #20, that bike is just begging for the @PedalUma treatment, mid-drive Tongshen TSDZ2 motor.

That bike has already, after lengthy consideration, got a BBSHD on it.

 

[PedalUma]

The ideal bike for OP came into my workshop late yesterday. It is a Specialized Roll. It is getting a rack and double wide panniers and SuperMoto-X tires with greenguard. The wheelbase is long and it is super comfy with an upright riding position. The guy is a local high school PE teacher who is giving MBS and Putin the finger for his commute. He is starting with a 10.5Ah, 36V that looks a lot like a water bottle. That is 3 hours and fifty minutes of riding at 100W or half that at averaging 200W. With riding for pleasurer, at the beginning of the ride each minute of riding is better than the one prior to it. Everyone is different but then there comes a cross over point, let's say at one hour forty-five minutes, where each additional minute is worse than the one prior to it.

 

[4speed]

I wish I had a full day's work to spend on my project, then it would be up and running already.
Battery needs to get in place, battery leads to motor soldered in, brake cut switches fit, new chain on, then test run. After successful test it gets new tires and handles and then I'm ready to see if this thing does what I have been hoping it will.

Oh, and new tires need new mud guards. Original ones are a tight fit over/around the 28 mm tires and I imagine I will be going for 37-40 mm or so.

 

[PedalUma]

I wish I had a full day's work to spend on my project, then it would be up and running already.
Battery needs to get in place, battery leads to motor soldered in, brake cut switches fit, new chain on, then test run. After successful test it gets new tires and handles and then I'm ready to see if this thing does what I have been hoping it will.

Oh, and new tires need new mud guards. Original ones are a tight fit over/around the 28 mm tires and I imagine I will be going for 37-40 mm or so.

Look into plastic fenders. That's is what I have on this bike. They are easy to keep clean, inexpensive, and can never dent. Here it is in the conversion process.

 

[4speed]

Look into plastic fenders. That's is what I have on this bike. They are easy to keep clean, inexpensive, and can never dent. Here it is in the conversion process.

View attachment 124453

Plastic for certain. I will want them to cover a little more though, and there is not a lot if space on my bike. I will likely just replace with wider of the same type if available.

 

[mclewis1]

View attachment 124453

What the @#$% is that? I've got soooo many questions and comments, but I'll try and keep an open mind so we'll start with just one ... what is the use case for the owner?

 

[PedalUma]

That is one of my bikes. I use it for long rides, roads, trails, mountains. Our rural roads between here and the coast are beautiful but in bad condition. Road bikes can't do it very well. I take trails as short cuts to some of the better roads out to Tomales Bay. I like the air fork. I can change up positions with that HB to prevent fatigue. That bike is a climber and is fast. I can tuck and coast on a long slope and pass guys who are pedaling expensive eBikes from stores.

 

[mikeschn]

Quick and dirty, a Quad Bob HD.
1 mm rubber sheet on the tube and this should stay in place.
(Normally wouldn't use slotted screws but they were the only countersunk I had with the right length.)
View attachment 124381

@4speed So you used something like this?

Amazon.com: Black Silicone Rubber Sheet, 60A Durometer, 1/32 x 9 x 12" Commercial Grade, Made in the USA, No Adhesive Backing, High Temp Gasket Material : Industrial & Scientific

Amazon.com: Black Silicone Rubber Sheet, 60A Durometer, 1/32 x 9 x 12" Commercial Grade, Made in the USA, No Adhesive Backing, High Temp Gasket Material : Industrial & Scientific

www.amazon.com

 

[4speed]

@4speed So you used something like this?

Amazon.com: Black Silicone Rubber Sheet, 60A Durometer, 1/32 x 9 x 12" Commercial Grade, Made in the USA, No Adhesive Backing, High Temp Gasket Material : Industrial & Scientific

Amazon.com: Black Silicone Rubber Sheet, 60A Durometer, 1/32 x 9 x 12" Commercial Grade, Made in the USA, No Adhesive Backing, High Temp Gasket Material : Industrial & Scientific

www.amazon.com

Yes, seems similar. Mine is slightly thicker (1 mm vs 1/32" = 0,8 mm) but that should be of no importance.
Partly to protect the frame, partly to even out any remaining rough parts on the rail, partly (mainly) to get higher friction. And not thicker sheet than that, to prevent wiggle.

Got a 8"x10" or so sheet from a local car parts store, to cut gaskets from. Sells for 6-7 EUR/USD.

 

[mikeschn]

@4speed Perfect. That's what I'll use...

I printed a template this morning to check my downtube dimensions... the template fits reasonably well. Now to design some kind of a bracket/BOB bar! Ha!

I didn't really want to use hose clamps. But some combination of nuts, bolts and cable ties might do the trick!