Yes I can see where some hub motor guys would lean that way. Also I was talking more in terms of tubes that were patched repeatedly.Makes sense for most with hub motors to just patch without taking the wheel off if you can.
Been riding most of this year on a patched tube on my mid drive that I fixed on trail - it doesn't leak so so I can't be bothered to swap it out even with the thru axel.
It's about the repeated patching of a tube that gets me and some cases swapping out the tube check for source of puncture and then patching the tube later and using it as the spare makes more sence or recycling it for something else or throwing out because it at the point were that the more practical answer.I have so few flats I can't say I "keep" patching my tubes, but why wouldn't you patch a tube? It's easy and it works. As Flannel Guy said, you can often patch a tube without dismounting the wheel. And there's the cost. The cost isn't much of a factor, but still.
I wouldn't hesitate to replace a tube if necessary. I always carry two spares, but at the same time, I wouldn't hesitate to patch a pinhole.
I replace my tubes when I replace my tires, which is about every two years.
TT
Yeah but all you do is wipe with a towel or the edge of your t shirt and that clears up the sealant. Plus... it was Slime that made a huge mess. I don't use it anymore. The glue should never dry up if you take the time to close the tube tightly. I'm at less than a flat a year now (I have probably jinxed it by saying that) but even if so its less work roadside to patch than it is to replace. I guess it all boils down to familiarity with the process and your comfort level getting down and doing it.Sealents make it hard to patch. on higher psi tires the sealant only worked once in awhile so the tubes were very messy. plus only a flat or two a year and patching was more of a hassle as the glue may dry up too.
I would definitely depends on the flat and other things like the fat bike tire verse a skinner road tire put the same number of patch on both and it's not the same. I actually have a tubeless tire that has a vulcanized patch because of how much tread life it has left and fact that it not at risk of tearing. Had the tread been wore down I would have just replaced it.An inner tube is roughly $10. A patch is roughly one cent (add in the glue and you're up to two or three cents). A cold-vulcanizing patch is stronger than the original rubber tube alone. Why would you waste a perfectly good tube by throwing it away?
Count the patches in the picture below. They are all applied at different times. So if I blew $10 on a tube every time (actually for that fat tube its about $15), thats a LOT of money thrown down the drain for no reason. On that tube in the picture below I got to 7 patches before the 8th was on one of those high seams that could not be patched. So that was a good reason to replace the tube.
View attachment 144706
Also look at that picture above. I have pulled the tire bead off and patched the tube in place. If you are on the side of the road, and your thinking is to replace the tube, you get to remove the wheel. Its perfectly easy to just pull off the bead, pull out the tube as you see it above, patch and stuff everything back together.
Nowadays, I'm using Flatout sealant and essentially flatproof tires, so I don't think I have had a flat in over a year, but with less impregnable options and daily driving, it doesn't make any sense to throw money away like that unless there's a good mechanical reason for it (i.e. badly slashed tube etc.)
I do have one bike with quick release that is as fast if not faster to pull off and do depending on the situation.Yeah but all you do is wipe with a towel or the edge of your t shirt and that clears up the sealant. Plus... it was Slime that made a huge mess. I don't use it anymore. The glue should never dry up if you take the time to close the tube tightly. I'm at less than a flat a year now (I have probably jinxed it by saying that) but even if so its less work roadside to patch than it is to replace. I guess it all boils down to familiarity with the process and your comfort level getting down and doing it.
I did the same thing with my road bike that was my daily driver going back to the mid 1980's. Those were 700x20C-23C tires (I was a lot thinner then) and something like 100 psi. Back in those days I used Tuffy and no sealant. The risk was not with the patches but with the tube blowing up and tearing when punctured, which meant no repair possible. But... a rolled up 23C tube is one hell of a lot smaller and fits inside of my saddle pack rather than being strapped under it like they are now.I would definitely depends on the flat and other things like the fat bike tire verse a skinner road tire put the same number of patch on both and it's not the same.
That is what I like about my ebikes same easy rear wheel removal as a non ebikeI leave the rear wheel on the ebike and pull the tube out, patch it and stuff it back in. Easy and fast. I use those Slime Scabs, just peel and stick. Have had great luck with them and as long as they hold the air in I don't care how many patches the tube has. I hate removing the rear wheel on my ebike.
I do the same. If the flat requires wheel removal, IMO, it's easier & faster to just check the inside of the tire and slap in a new tube. Patching takes a bit longer and there's always the risk of doing a bad job or even a second puncture you didn't see.My bikes (geared hub and mid drive) generally just get a new tube - after a thorough inspection of the inside of the tire in the area of the puncture.
with me it usually raining or cold.I do the same. If the flat requires wheel removal, IMO, it's easier & faster to just check the inside of the tire and slap in a new tube. Patching takes a bit longer and there's always the risk of doing a bad job or even a second puncture you didn't see.
'Damned if you do, damned if you don't"."Paint it, patch it, use it up, wear it out, make it do or do without."