Wingmanzzz
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With any bike you will have peddle scrape when you lean heavily into a turn. You should always* be turning the peddles so the inside peddle is at the top of its stroke during a turn. A full suspension bike will usually let the peddles get a bit closer to the ground, but you shouldn't have to be maxing out the shock PSI just for peddle scrape issues.The only problem I’m having is that I was getting serious peddle scrape before I maxed out rear suspension at 295 psi. (I didn’t want to go any more than that.) Now that I’m there I barely scraped with a heavy lean into a turn
IMHO the smartphone hub is a downgrade from a dedicated display. In a year or two as phones & OS change, the chance that the smartphone hub won't work quite right increases. Phone mounts are cheap and give you other benefits beyond just using the phone as a GPS, so I'd go that route.Is it worth it or just get a phone mount for gps directions separately?
The lower battery on the 2020 Superdelite is a 625w. The upper is a 500w. There isn't any other batteries that you can swap in those locations to increase your capacity.Can the 2020 hold 625 batteries?
Yeah, there is an o-ring on the rear as well. It's definitely harder to use IMHO, but it should give you a rough gauge if you are sagging a lot more then normal or not.!!! Thanks for the thorough reply! The fronts are not giving me any issue, on this bike or my old hard tail. It’s all to blame on the rear. I’ll take your tip and analyze this tonight. Is there an o ring on rear shock? Is there such thing as a “big boy” rear shock?
Good plan and remember, proper tire and shock air pressure is all about getting best the performance, comfort and safety for your riding style. I wouldn't prioritize ground clearance as a reason for increasing either.Thanks for the reply! I’ll relearn with a better technique and evaluate tire pressure as well. The peddles on this bike are quite small had several peddle strikes before I bought it.
Yes. And pedal strikes are only the start and most dramatic. Bad form will lead to your general in ability to control the bike. Add that it is an e-bike and your next post might be about a crash with pictures of road rash and about bone damage.I suppose this is bad form?
The only problem I’m having is that I was getting serious peddle scrape before I maxed out rear suspension at 295 psi.
In addition to a great shock, that is some shiny bling you have added to your bike Alaskan - hmmm now wouldn't that look cool on Susie's Homage....I recently put Fox Factory front fork and rear shock with Kashmina coating on my 2018 Delite Mountain. They fit just fine. The fork has 130mm travel which raised the pedals up about 15mm over the 120mm stock Fox Float shock. Also taking the tire up to a larger width will get the pedals up higher too.
Wise words to heed.That is unfortunate on a lot of levels. I too had COVID but with little or no health related effects. Your weight puts you at or above the limit most bike frames can handle and when combined with your above average level of fitness, bad things can happen. Being 6'5", finding a bike that "fit" was difficult but I'm only 210lbs so height was my only problematic measure and the easier one to overcome. As an owner of one of the bikes you considered (MD 1000) and now the happily riding the Delite I understand your issues. My Delite GX extreme rohloff HS has a chain drive and that combo seems perfect for my commuter/workout riding style.
Belt drives sound great in theory but there are some challenges with belt tensioning that seem to cause issues. After finally blowing out the clearly inadequate 5 speed Sturmey Archer IGH belt combo on the MD 1000, I switched to the SRAM 9 speed chain drive train and it is now performing as it should. The Factory direct version is now available with the Rohloff 14 IGH belt option and that may have be an option for you but with a max rider weight of 300 lbs, you would still be out of spec on the MD 1000.
The Delite is a vastly superior bike by almost any measure. I suggest you replace the belt and try a slightly less torque heavy riding style. I am never in Turbo mode find Tour perfect for most riding conditions. I am very careful shifting only while pausing pedaling and that seems to be a riding style that works well for the bike and drive train.
Is your location DC as stated, or does that mean something else? If so, why don‘t you take the bike to Electricity, a Trek dealer or Daily Rider? This is a remarkable event for only 20miles on the bike, so for your own safety you should have it checked out.Also, is anyone else experiencing the fraying of the belt on the engine side only? This fraying runs the length of the belt.
Wow, from memory when my belt snapped it looked almost the same in terms of your tear pattern. I have not time to upload what happened yet but that is uncanny how the snap pattern looks like my snap pattern. I showed a bloke at work that dabbles in hobby steam engines etc., he reckons the snap location is a join. How is your new belt getting on since?aaaand the carbon belt snapped today.... Stopped for pictures and a quick break. Was in some light grass enviolo was in "flat" gearing, i suppose that would be high gear? Was also in turbo mode. As i mounted and started off, something wasnt working right, the peddle was requiring much more force from me than any time in the 20 miles i've put on the bike.... I was assuming the higher torque requirement was because of the gearing and grass conditions... and the motor doesnt kick in instantaneously... 1/4 revolution is all it took. Also took a gnarly groin shot that’s got me in a decent limp and bruising 12 hours later. Honestly? I dont know if the motor locked up or something else. I hadnt had any motor issues before this point. Breaking a belt sucks. Walking home a few miles with a brand new $7500 70 lb paperweight sucks even worse. I haven’t really looked over the sprockets or the motor yet. Had the bigger issue of getting home to contend with, that and bending down wasn’t feeling too hot in the crotch. Right now im quite concerned that the high torque to absolutely no torque might have nuked the motor. But it could've nuked before this. IDK. Absolutely no problems from the motor before.
Any suggestions? Does Bosch store analytical data on the motor?
photo shows exactly where it happened.
Edit: After thinking about it a little more I did do one thing for the first time before parking it for photos. I tried out the walk assist. It worked perfectly fine. I probably went 30 feet. It was about 5-10 minutes after this that the failure happened. Could this have contributed? I didn’t shut the kiox off. Would it have “stayed” in walk assist when I tried to peddle and it wouldn’t allow me to?