HELP - Messed up my Vado SL 4.0 after trying to change rear tire.

R

Rook

Member
Region
USA
Ugh ...

Thought I'd change our the stock pathfinder 38c for Smart Sams 40C. Tires look like they would have great traction. Unfortunately, I could not get them onto the rims after about 45 minutes of struggling with it and watching numerous videos on how to do so. I could get one side and 80% of the other, but it just would not go. At this point I'm likely sending them back; even if I had the LBS do it, what happens when I get a flat on the trail?

Worse, when I removed the rear wheel, I didn't set the gear to the smallest setting. Once I get it back on, when I shifted all the way to one end of the gears, one one side the front hub would not spin, and the other end of the gears the chain came off. And, the chain proceeded to come off the front hub and get stuck between the front gear and the motor housing. After wrestling that for a while I got that fixed, but I cannot get the rear gears right. Now it seems that the derailleur is in the way. I have no idea what to do other than take it to the LBS tomorrow.

I'm pretty disappointed and frustrated.
 
new tires can be a bear. when I got new wheels I put a new tire on the rear and it was so hard but I used the same tired slightly used on the front and it was no problem. they stretch a bit.
Most likely you don't have the wheel in the dropouts all the way.
 
Sorry, without seeing your setup/situation I can’t make any suggestions. Best of luck!
 
IMG_6743.jpg
 
Rook said:
Thanks. Any ideas on what I did to the rear wheel and the gears?
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most likely nothing. just take the wheel out change gears till you're in the smallest one and try again. make sure the wheel is seated all the way into the dropouts.
 
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fooferdoggie said:
most likely nothing. just take the wheel out change gears till you're in the smallest one and try again. make sure the wheel is seated al later way into the dropouts.
Click to expand...
That’s what I’d do. Rook, your picture makes it look like the wheel and derailleur are out of parallel.
 
There is no need to remove the wheel to recenter the gears. Just make sure the axle is installed correctly and make sure the clutch lever on the derailleur pulley is "off". Hold the bike off the ground and lightly turn the cranks and the chain should settle onto the correct gear. Most likely the clutch is still "on" which makes the pulley movement stiff to prevent chain slap on rough terrain. I assume you were using tire levers when you tried to install the new tire? Tubeless ready rims are usually a little tighter tolerance and you need to pinch the tire together so it will sit in the depression at the center of the rim opposite the side you are trying to finish even though you are not using a tubeless compatible tire.

It's always good to practice a tire change since you will usually get a flat at the worst time when it is dark, raining and you're late for something.

bike.shimano.com

DEORE Rear Derailleur SHIMANO SHADOW RD+ 10-speed | SHIMANO BIKE-EU

bike.shimano.com bike.shimano.com

 
Thanks. Looking at it further it seems the derailleur is too close to the rear cassette gears. I can’t figure out how to move it. Also somehow the cable for the derailleur is sticking into the spokes which did not exist before.
 
Try the clutch lever in the off position. Just bend the extra cable down where it comes out of the derailleur past the tightening screw. You may have caught it on the wheel when you removed it. I've assumed motor off and no forcing of anything so I would not expect component to be bent.
 
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@Rook: Please slow down. Listen to me as I have gone through a similar ordeal before I gained some experience.

First of all: Tyre replacement. Grab the tyre by side-walls with your thumb on one side and other fingers on the other. Keep squeezing the bead inside as much as you can and travel around the rim that way.

Precisely: squeeze both beads towards each other.

Once both beads almost meet each other, you'll see how almost magically more and more of the bead gets inside the rim. Just be patient and work consistently. You should come up a situation when very little of one bead is still outside (it is the best to work in cotton work gloves). Now, either have some soapy water, or... even simpler: use some of plate washing liquid and generously apply it to the remaining bead. Now, work the bead inside the rim hard with both hands. Presto. It really works.

After you have gained the experience, you'll notice how easy each and every future tyre swap would be. (Been there, done that).
-------------
Handling the derailleur etc:

It helps if you rotate the bike upside down so it is resting on the saddle and handlebars but it is risky as you might inadvertently destroy the display (a product called Handlebar Jack that facilitates the process is available; I just protect the display with styrofoam).

It is highly probable your derailleur is equipped with the Shadow clutch. (There is a grey lever there at the top of the derailleur). The indication the clutch is engaged is you cannot push the derailleur arm forward. Switch the lever so it points forward: now you should be able to rotate the derailleur arm forward (the clutch got disengaged). Upshift with the gear shifter and manually move the chain towards smaller cogs. Now, as you can manipulate the derailleur arm with your hand, straighten it and that would give you space for re-inserting the rear wheel into the axle sockets.

I know it is very very hard to describe the process, which is indeed simple. I'd love to make a video tutorial on how to remove and replace the rear wheel but I'm missing a second person to help me... You might ask your LBS for taking you out from the jam now. No need to return Smart Sams. (You are just missing experience).

Good luck!

P.S. I have forgotten to add you should be careful to not to pinch the inner tube on the tyre replacement. Happened to me thrice, so ignorant I used to be!
 
Thanks for the help. I ended up taking it to the LBS. The derailleur hanger was bent slightly. Likely from my trying to force the wheel in place, or from when the chain got stuck between the chain ring and the motor housing and I had to pry it out.
 
One option to think about is to go tubeless. I've ridden over 10,000km (with tubeless tires) in the last two years without a flat tire. I will never go back to using tubes again.
 
SL 4 wheels are not tubeless compatible so you’d need to add the cost of new wheels to the equation. Otherwise it’s a good idea.
 
I find wire bead tires are harder to mount and the same goes for tubeless.

I use kevlar bead, regular clinchers and I find they go on a lot easier.
 
Rook said:
I ended up taking it to the LBS. The derailleur hanger was bent slightly. Likely from my trying to force the wheel in place, or from when the chain got stuck between the chain ring and the motor housing and I had to pry it out.
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Good move. It's your expensive ebike, and up to you to save it properly.

If you break your ebike with advice from the internet, then oops!
 
BEC111 said:
SL 4 wheels are not tubeless compatible so you’d need to add the cost of new wheels to the equation. Otherwise it’s a good idea.
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I'm surprised that a newly designed ( and expensive) bike doesn't come with the option to go tubeless.
 
Deacon Blues said:
I'm surprised that a newly designed ( and expensive) bike doesn't come with the option to go tubeless.
Click to expand...
The model 4 isn’t tubeless compatible. The model 5‘s are tubeless compatible.
I agree. It’s absurdly greedy to not have tubeless rims. Guess that’s part of the $1000 price difference?

Future Shock, TCD 11 Speed cassette. Not $1000. Guess the rims are the difference.
 
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