Help finding a place to buy this controller (KT-20a 48v?)

That controller is better known as a KT-17a or KT-20a (they're both the same size and both are 6 mosfet). Have you tried locating it using KT-17a or 20a?
Amazon?
 
Hi all,

Im looking to buy this controller or similar but finding it quite difficult in finding it for sale online or a place that ships to the uk.

I’m looking for this controller because it’s small enough to fit in the downtube on my Aventon LEVEL.


Any info will be super helpful!
Here is a waterproof KT. Don't know if they ship to UK or not.
 
Here's a link on your UK ebay site. There's a whole bunch of smaller ones below it. Do your own diligence and check the dimensions.

kt_06.jpg

Ebay.co.uk link to above.

Unless Aventon uses a KT display, you will also have to buy a KT display. They're also on ebay.co.uk.
 
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That controller is better known as a KT-17a or KT-20a (they're both the same size and both are 6 mosfet). Have you tried locating it using KT-17a or 20a?
Amazon?
That controller is better known as a KT-17a or KT-20a (they're both the same size and both are 6 mosfet). Have you tried locating it using KT-17a or 20a?
Amazon?
I’ve seen a few 17a’s but question would be what does the 17a represent? I have an Aventon LEVEL which had a 500w 48v motor and it’s run by a 14ah battery.
 
Why are you changing the controller? As I said earlier, controllers and displays must be compatible. The proposed KT controller will not work with that nice Aventon display. You'll be spending $50 USD or more on a new dis[play too.

Did you know that the wiring is probably not compatible? You'll have to cut connectors off, figure out how the wires match, and put on new ones.

To me, the only reason to change to a different controller is to get more power. This would be your A rating. A means amperes, The more, the better, til you melt something.

This formula is true, watts = amps x voltage. You want 750 watts. then the amps and voltage product must equal 750. So 17A means 17 amps, and assume a nominal voltage of 50V, that means a theoretical peak of 850W, In the real world, you might get 700 briefly on a KT 17A system.
 
Why are you changing the controller? As I said earlier, controllers and displays must be compatible. The proposed KT controller will not work with that nice Aventon display. You'll be spending $50 USD or more on a new dis[play too.

Did you know that the wiring is probably not compatible? You'll have to cut connectors off, figure out how the wires match, and put on new ones.

To me, the only reason to change to a different controller is to get more power. This would be your A rating. A means amperes, The more, the better, til you melt something.

This formula is true, watts = amps x voltage. You want 750 watts. then the amps and voltage product must equal 750. So 17A means 17 amps, and assume a nominal voltage of 50V, that means a theoretical peak of 850W, In the real world, you might get 700 briefly on a KT 17A system.
Thank you Harry. I actually have a display for the KT controller, it’s a LCD8. Some other members have already changed to a KT controller and they’re loving it. I mainly want to change controller to give me PAS levels more flexibility and also want to change the speed of my throttle.
 
We have a 500w bike that's been running on a KT-17a for quite a while now (2 years). This was done just before they introduced the 9 mosfet version rated at 22 or 25a. Will the 17a handle the abuse a 22a will, heck no! Is it sufficient for a 500w bike that not going to be pushed hard, I think the answer there needs to be answered by the rider.

Hard not to agree with @harryS here, it's spelled out clearly in the laws of electricity, and it's confirmed by my own experience:
"This formula is true, watts = amps x voltage. You want 750 watts. then the amps and voltage product must equal 750. So 17A means 17 amps, and assume a nominal voltage of 50V, that means a theoretical peak of 850W, In the real world, you might get 700 briefly on a KT 17A system.

I don't remember what this 17a controller peaked at before cutting it back to get PAS 1 power where we wanted/needed it, but I can tell you that the 22a will pull 980 watts pretty easily for short bursts (like crossing a busy road for instance) - and again, that's AFTER being cut back to get PAS 1 power where we want it. YES, both the 17a and the 22a had to be dialed back to get PAS 1 power to the level we wanted (easily done in the display parameters)- assuring good low speed control at speeds well under 10mph.

Just to be absolutely clear, when you start pushing the controller's limits, or those of your motor, it has to be done keeping in mind BOTH are going to heat up quickly if abused/used for more than a few seconds. That said, a 500w motor does get pretty sporty when fed power exceeding it's capacity..... that will put a smile on your face pretty sure!

I think you'll be fine with the 17a keeping that in mind..... -Al
 
This is a 22a which is sadly too big for my requirement. Thank though!
Two 20 a kt, but you have to buy the display also. International delivery.

 
We have a 500w bike that's been running on a KT-17a for quite a while now (2 years). This was done just before they introduced the 9 mosfet version rated at 22 or 25a. Will the 17a handle the abuse a 22a will, heck no! Is it sufficient for a 500w bike that not going to be pushed hard, I think the answer there needs to be answered by the rider.

Hard not to agree with @harryS here, it's spelled out clearly in the laws of electricity, and it's confirmed by my own experience:
"This formula is true, watts = amps x voltage. You want 750 watts. then the amps and voltage product must equal 750. So 17A means 17 amps, and assume a nominal voltage of 50V, that means a theoretical peak of 850W, In the real world, you might get 700 briefly on a KT 17A system.

I don't remember what this 17a controller peaked at before cutting it back to get PAS 1 power where we wanted/needed it, but I can tell you that the 22a will pull 980 watts pretty easily for short bursts (like crossing a busy road for instance) - and again, that's AFTER being cut back to get PAS 1 power where we want it. YES, both the 17a and the 22a had to be dialed back to get PAS 1 power to the level we wanted (easily done in the display parameters)- assuring good low speed control at speeds well under 10mph.

Just to be absolutely clear, when you start pushing the controller's limits, or those of your motor, it has to be done keeping in mind BOTH are going to heat up quickly if abused/used for more than a few seconds. That said, a 500w motor does get pretty sporty when fed power exceeding it's capacity..... that will put a smile on your face pretty sure!

I think you'll be fine with the 17a keeping that in mind..... -Al
Thanks @AHicks. My basically ride my bike 10 miles to work at a speed of 16mph, this means my motor is more or less running for around 50min, constantly. I do use the throttle to accelerate from a dead stop when I’m on red rights.

With the controller at the moment you can do 28mph, I believe the controller I have is a Tongsheng, the model number suggests it’s a 22A but the controller is small, I don’t think it has 9 mosfets.

@Tom@WashDC shared the controller info here: https://electricbikereview.com/forums/threads/aventon-level-controller-info.45703/
 
Two 20 a kt, but you have to buy the display also. International delivery.

Need the ones with a waterproof connectors unfortunately
 
Need the ones with a waterproof connectors unfortunately
The displays that come with these will be matched for connections, so the most dificult wire matches are taken care of. The rest are are at most only 3 wire connections.
 
The displays that come with these will be matched for connections, so the most dificult wire matches are taken care of. The rest are are at most only 3 wire connections.
Waterproof type connectors, with the 1t4 cable, make for a MUCH cleaner more reliable install. There will still likely be plenty of chances to enjoy messing with 3 wire connectors....
 
Thanks @AHicks. My basically ride my bike 10 miles to work at a speed of 16mph, this means my motor is more or less running for around 50min, constantly. I do use the throttle to accelerate from a dead stop when I’m on red rights.

With the controller at the moment you can do 28mph, I believe the controller I have is a Tongsheng, the model number suggests it’s a 22A but the controller is small, I don’t think it has 9 mosfets.

@Tom@WashDC shared the controller info here: https://electricbikereview.com/forums/threads/aventon-level-controller-info.45703/
If you need to average 16mph with a 500w motor, you are pushing it IMHO. Not much in the way of reserves for a 17 or 20a controller either. If you were to slow down to 12mph or so, easily within the capabilities of the 500w motor/17a controller, how much longer do you think it might take for your commute?
 
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If you need to average 16mph with a 500w motor, you are pushing it IMHO. Not much in the way of reserves for a 17 or 20a controller either. If you were to slow down to 12mph or so, easily within the capabilities of the 500w motor/17a controller, how much longer do you think it might take for your commute?
12mph will increase the time by probably 20 mins…. I don’t I can handle that longer commute in central london, lol.

If only Kunteng made a smaller 22a controller, I’d really like a clean install with the controller in the downtube on my Aventon LEVEL.
 
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