Help choosing an air fork

[PCeBiker]

I'm using these two lubes now,..

They are specifically for stanchions. They're just silicone based lubes. One is thinner.

I bought syringes with blunt nosed needles and squirted the grease under the lip of the seal.

I didn't like how the seal just pushed the lube out of the way, so I packed grease under the lip.

I watched a video that said "Do Not Do This, You'll Wreck The Seal", but I didn't use a screwdriver and I was careful. My seal is fine.

Not all greases should be used in all situations.
Viscosity and plastic/rubber compatibility are important as well.

I found out that oil based lubes dissolve oil based rubbers and plastics.

And interestingly, silicone based lubes can dissolve silicone rubbers and seals in the same kinda way.

Apparently the best rubber for just about any purpose is urethane, it's ultra durable and is impervious to just about anything including acid and high heat.

Ever see a rubber anything swell from using a petroleum based anything with it?

I remember undercoating my car with regular 10W30 and my spray gun.
The rubber dust boots around my brake cables swelled up and turned to mush. My fingers were covered is black goo.

Proper undercoating is synthetic. I was just being a cheap ass. It didn't workout for me.

The 10W30 didn't work worth a crap either.
After a month the car (rust) looked as dry as before I sprayed it.

 

[PCeBiker]

I actually use a micro coat of SLICKOLEUM on my stanchions,..

I've also used my silicone based SIL-GLYDE brake grease. It's silicone "rubber grease" as specified for the brakes on my car.

I was wondering if it had any additives in it that might conduct electricity, so I tested it with my ohm meter and it doesn't conduct, so I use it as dielectric grease as well as on my stanchions.

It's kinda too thick for the stanchions and leaves enough behind to have dust stick to it.

 

[fooferdoggie]

all that grease all just cause dirt to stick to your fork and grind stuff down. if its not a air fork it may not matter but it sure will with a air fork. you need to keep it as clean as possible.

 

[Gionnirocket]

all that grease all just cause dirt to stick to your fork and grind stuff down. if its not a air fork it may not matter but it sure will with a air fork. you need to keep it as clean as possible.

Yes, In this situation... less is more.
I clean the stanchion then lube it lightly with a lint free microfiber cloth.
Exercise it a few times than wipe it down with a clean dry micro fiber cloth.
No more dust sticks to it than before started doing this practice and I notice the difference especially on very light bumps that are not enough to force much movement when it's too dry/not lubed.

 

[fooferdoggie]

I didn't like how the seal just pushed the lube out of the way, so I packed grease under the lip.

that's what the seal is supposed to do so it keeps it clean so you don't need lube. lube attracts dirt and dirt is sandpaper.

 

[fooferdoggie]

Yes, In this situation... less is more.
I clean the stanchion then lube it lightly with a lint free microfiber cloth.
Exercise it a few times than wipe it down with a clean dry micro fiber cloth.
No more dust sticks to it than before started doing this practice and I notice the difference especially on very light bumps that are not enough to force much movement when it's too dry/not lubed.

they do have a super thin lube for the seals but its like water.

 

[PCeBiker]

all that grease all just cause dirt to stick to your fork and grind stuff down. if its not a air fork it may not matter but it sure will with a air fork. you need to keep it as clean as possible.

OK, I'll keep that in mind.

I could feel my shocks binding though, so I needed to do something.
It even says to do it in the owners manual.

I didn't know how to lube my forks but found this video,..
It's a similar model to my forks.

Are You Kidding Me ??!!
I'm supposed to remove and disassemble my fricken forks EVERY MONTH ?? F-THAT...

I learned later that you're just supposed to lubricate the exposed stanchions.

 

[PCeBiker]

they do have a super thin lube for the seals but its like water.

Yeah, that's how my fork lube in the bottle is.
I do what Gionnirocket does.
They say you're supposed to do it after every ride, but that's a PITA too.
I just push down on the font end, and lube it if I feel it binding.

I just wanted to try and get grease under the seal lip so I gave that a try after seeing this video.

I have no idea what he's saying, but you get the idea,..

 

[Gionnirocket]

they do have a super thin lube for the seals but its like water.

Well the Slickoleum is a super thin viscosity lubricant grease AND was recommended by Manitou so I'm not going to worry/change my game plan for now especially since I've seen no downside so far and do notice an improvement when used.
ymmv

 

[PCeBiker]

Well the Slickoleum is a super thin viscosity lubricant grease AND was recommended by Manitou so I'm not going to worry/change my game plan for now especially since I've seen no downside so far and do notice an improvement when used.
ymmv

Yeah, I'll do the same, but I won't be poking at the seals of my new forks.

I assume that you've got air forks?

 

[PCeBiker]

that's what the seal is supposed to do so it keeps it clean so you don't need lube. lube attracts dirt and dirt is sandpaper.

When I first got my e-bike, I noticed beige grease on my stanchions after my first ride, then more after every ride but less and less every time until I no longer had any grease getting onto the stanchions.
Then after a month or two, they started binding.

I would lock my front brake and push down slowly and I could feel it grip and let go a bunch of times as I pushed down.

I could actually feel the stiction.

 

[PCeBiker]

all that grease all just cause dirt to stick to your fork and grind stuff down. if its not a air fork it may not matter but it sure will with a air fork. you need to keep it as clean as possible.

I was just wondering,..

If I have air forks, and say the stanchions are all scratched to hell and the seals can't seal anymore, will my forks collapse?

I figure a spring fork will just lose it's damping ability, but an air fork might collapse?

My current fork seals are obviously leaking if I had grease coming from inside and getting on the stanchions.

 

[Gionnirocket]

Yeah, I'll do the same, but I won't be poking at the seals of my new forks.

I assume that you've got air forks?

Yes Manitou and I've been doing the same with my newer RockShox.
Both the fork and rear shock

 

[Gionnirocket]

I have new Rockshox from my Monte Capro. It can only accept 3" tire if you want to convert your bike 4" rear 3" front.
I give to you free just pay for USPS.
It has 15mm axle. The legs I think is 36mm. It does not need grease there is high performance oil inside it.

The internal oil and keeping the seals wet with grease are two different animals.
I highly recommend that you try it, especially after a bubble batch washes them dry

 

[PCeBiker]

I have new Rockshox from my Monte Capro. It can only accept 3" tire if you want to convert your bike 4" rear 3" front.
I give to you free just pay for USPS.
It has 15mm axle. The legs I think is 36mm. It does not need grease there is high performance oil inside it.

Well, I have been considering converting to 110 mm dropouts and a through axle, but then I would want to get a 29" wheel with crazy inverted downhill shocks like these,..

 

[PCeBiker]

Yes Manitou and I've been doing the same with my newer RockShox.
Both the fork and rear shock

Ohh,.. Even the rear shock??
I do like how rear shocks are generally inverted so dirt tends to work it's way off the stanchion instead of working it's way inside the shock.

And why are dust boots such a taboo?

Are they too heavy for the professionals?

I'm making boots for my forks.
I had to cut them to install them.

The new double shoulder air shocks allow me to remove each fork leg from the shoulders to install a fork boot without cutting it.

 

[PCeBiker]

Well, I have been considering crazy inverted downhill shocks like these,..

Those shocks are cool too because the axle is bolted to the fork leg.
None of that through axle or QR stuff.

You just remove the bolts then remove the wheel, axle and all.

Then you don't need a hollow axle. (But it may still be a hollow axle with nothing inside?)

 

[fooferdoggie]

OK, I'll keep that in mind.

I could feel my shocks binding though, so I needed to do something.
It even says to do it in the owners manual.

View attachment 170316

I didn't know how to lube my forks but found this video,..
It's a similar model to my forks.

Are You Kidding Me ??!!
I'm supposed to remove and disassemble my fricken forks EVERY MONTH ?? F-THAT...

I learned later that you're just supposed to lubricate the exposed stanchions.

It sounds like the result of a cheap fork. A suspension for should not be binding unless something is wrong with it.

 

[Gionnirocket]

It sounds like the result of a cheap fork. A suspension for should not be binding unless something is wrong with it.

Not for binding....
Got this quote from Muc Off which I totally agree with and has been my experience.
"MUC-OFF: Keeping your fork stanchions well lubricated is vital as it reduces the stiction between the wiper seal and the stanchion, which improves small bump sensitivity and trail buzz as the stiction is dramatically reduced. It also helps to keep dirt off the stanchion and seals as the silicon repels dirt and grime to the surfaces cleaner and hence reduces the risk of contaminants getting into the wiper seal (and in turn your fork oil)."

Here's the entire article where Rockshox disagrees but they also recommend rebuilding the shock every 50 hours which I find ridiculous.
Well over 500 hours on my Manitou and about 100 hours on my Rockshox and they're both working perfectly.

Feel free to do what you will.

 

[PCeBiker]

Here's the entire article where Rockshox disagrees but they also recommend rebuilding the shock every 50 hours which I find ridiculous.

It's not ridiculous.
It's good for the economy.

I've got maintenance free ball joints on my car.
They last the lifetime of the ball joint which is dramatically reduced because you can't lubricate them (no zirk fitting to pump grease in) salty water and dirt always get inside and rust out the joint so you buy a new steering linkage then pay huge dollars to have it installed and have an alignment done.

F-That Noise !!!...

I bought a grease needle with a zirk fitting and pumped grease into the boot until it was packed with grease and there was no place for water to fit inside.