Hello from Puget Sound

Watts Up

New Member
I've recently modified my 2015 Dr. Dew frame with the Samsung e-bike kit (front hub) from Leeds (17 AH SAMSUNG 75K/ 36 VOLTS/ 500 WATTS ). I've ridden it a few times (have not installed peddle assist yet) and feel somewhat underwhelmed by motor/thumb throttle experience. I'm also a bit leary of the strength of the front wheel assembly/build given the weight and forces imposed on it.

Wondering what other's experience with front wheel hubs in terms of wheel strength/durability and overall power. Assuming I stay with a front hub set up...Is there a better front wheel brushless I should consider?
 
Welcome to the site.
I first converted a 10 speed cruiser bike with 1000W front hub. This was not reliable more than 11 miles, probably because I bought two reject batteries, one from amazon, one from e-bay. I used a 1970's huffy savannah frame which steel was entirely strong enough to withstand the torque, although I did install torque rods. I loaded the 18 lb 15 AH battery on the front, which was slightly strange swinging that around. I ran aluminum struts up from the fork fender mount holes and also hung the battery from the handlebar in an aluminum frame. I haven't tried that bike with my new 17.5 ah battery from lunacycle of LA, since the bike is located at my summer camp & I bought the battery in October here in town.
I didn't like the PAS on that kit, which level 1 surged with 500 W on the second magnet picked up and only stopped accelerating at 11 mph. That is too fast for rough pavement or especially my rutted camp driveway. I was glad I had a throttle to gradually apply power. Once I got going on good pavement, then PAS1 was fine for cruising without holding the throttle. As the crank of the Savannah was not three piece as modern bikes, I had to modify the magnet ring by drilling out the center and glueing it to the crank with wood wedges to keep it straight. I also had to build a custom mount for the pickup hung from the kickstand hole.
The 1000 W hub will start me and 50 lb supplies on a 15% grade. But it was a geared hub. I don't know if my 1000 W Direct drive hub conversion shown left will do the same, the steep grades are all out near my summer camp.
 
I have no experience with front wheel hub drives but welcome to the Asylum I'm sure you'll get the help/advice you're looking for.
 
I live down country on the north OR coast and have two bikes with front hub motors that I control with throttles and no pedal assist. Probably about 4k miles between them at this point. Both are able to run at 1000+w but primarily I use the 500w setting my display/controller allows me to do. Also I have a cruise control setting whereby I can hold the throttle at my desired wattage for 2 secs and let go and it will maintain that setting or go lower if not needed but not higher. That way I control my pedal input to the drivetrain at whatever gear ratio/effort I want to complement the terrain and motor output. Personally this works better for my style of riding than a dedicated torque/cadence sensing PAS. I pedal 99% of the time anyway as that is most of the reason I ride a bicycle.

If you don't have a cruise control feature riding with a throttle can be a bit fussy but still doable, just get to the speed you want to go, find a complimentary gear ratio and feed enough throttle to maintain your momentum. You may find you prefer the cadence sensing system that comes with your kit however once you get it hooked up but I personally find CS to provide too vague a feeling at the pedals. One thing for sure a throttle helps for starting out from a stop and as an assist in the event you have to get off and get the heavy bike uphill. A throttle will not make any eBike more powerful than any PAS system is able to and although many dismiss it I find it to be very handy to have on board.

I get my gear from ebikes.ca up in Van mostly because they have the most comprehensive display, CA3, that allows for the features I mentioned as well as tracking Ah's, Wh's, temp, speed, distance, battery cycles etc. and is programmable. I like their All Axle Front Hub motor the best as it has a great built in torque arm system and is the lightest DD hub available. I also have a bike with a 9c which has proven to be very good. They are the most knowledgeable hub motor source on the planet.

My wheels were custom built using Sapim Strong spokes and have been trouble free. I even rode my 9c home 6 miles on a flat tire once, slowly primarily on a dirt logging road, when I couldn't get the tube patched after spending an hour trying. It still runs true as the day it was built. As long as your spoke tension is good you shouldn't have any problems. But for sure you need to have some sort of a torque arm to prevent the axle rotating in the dropout and causing damage or at worst fully coming out.

I would say as you already have it give it a try before you seek other options. Although I prefer my mid drive with torque assist on my mtb for trail riding, for road use I will never switch over to anything other than a front hub/throttle control now that I am used to it.
 
What’s not to love about Grin! Just got my battery base controller. Man, I wish I’d moved to Grin sooner. But I still have a soft spot for the BBSHD. I have a front drive 1000W MXUS, with a Grin controller and CA3. I seem to ride that bike the most. No hills and a real studded snow tire beast. (15lbs on the front rack, Finnish tires)
 
thanks for the notes and suggestions. I'm researching your suggestions to figure out configurations to re-use my existing ESC and battery. My electric RC airplanes use similar components so I feel well versed in the technology and comfortable in mixing/matching/repairing components.

That Grin motor looks nice. I can already tell that I'll need to guard my credit credit cards...... from myself. :).
 
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