Has anyone replaced the clutch gear assembly on their CC(S,X)?

youth

Active Member
Having over 4k miles on my CCX I've been experiencing some situations where the motor isn't engaging & when it does there a gear grinding noise. It's not common yet, but I see it as a sign that it will quit entirely sometime in the future which I expect since my original CC went through two motors with a combined 18k+ miles. I am a bit disappointed that these issues have appeared sooner then expected, but then I do tend to ride hard & also the CCX is pushing more power through the same motor (I tend to stick in 3 & sport mode keeping my speed 24-29mph).

From asking around & googling it seems like this is probably an issue with the clutch wearing down? I have one on order because it's not much more then paying to send the wheel back for warranty & I don't want wait two weeks without the bike. So just curious if anyone has tried this & if it fixed your motor issues.
 
I'm assuming you have a gear drive hub, I seem to remember it was one that is fairly common. Someone else will surely pipe in. If I'm correct it's likely a process like this. https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=16&t=51310

Ya it's the Bafang SWX02 (does anyone know the rpm version?). I've opened up the one from my CC already, but never got around trying to fix it since at the time I decided to get the CCX. The hardest part was removing the screws holding the cover down. They were philips head & I ended having to use an impact wrench. The CCX motor I noticed now uses torx screws.
 
Ya it's the Bafang SWX02 (does anyone know the rpm version?). I've opened up the one from my CC already, but never got around trying to fix it since at the time I decided to get the CCX. The hardest part was removing the screws holding the cover down. They were philips head & I ended having to use an impact wrench. The CCX motor I noticed now uses torx screws.
ALWAYS use an impact! Once stripped it’s a royal pain to replace.
 
ALWAYS use an impact! Once stripped it’s a royal pain to replace.

I actually did strip the screws on that motor & had to dremel a slot to get it out using the impact with a flathead. I'm just hoping that the issue is actually the clutch/gears since more googling has brought up a forum that talked of the issue possibly being frayed wiring too. Wish I bought from a more local supplier rather then China now since the grinding has become more pronounced after using the bike for Critical Mass bike ride where it's slow with lot of stop & go. Have felt it too when hitting obstacles on the rear wheel.
 
I actually did strip the screws on that motor & had to dremel a slot to get it out using the impact with a flathead. I'm just hoping that the issue is actually the clutch/gears since more googling has brought up a forum that talked of the issue possibly being frayed wiring too. Wish I bought from a more local supplier rather then China now since the grinding has become more pronounced after using the bike for Critical Mass bike ride where it's slow with lot of stop & go. Have felt it too when hitting obstacles on the rear wheel.
Worst case you replace the entire core. You'd not get it fixed any cheaper or better unless it was under warranty. I'm not interested in ANY Bafang hub that hasn't a parts stream. In my limited GH experience it's the clutch gear assembly most of the time.
 
Having over 4k miles on my CCX I've been experiencing some situations where the motor isn't engaging & when it does there a gear grinding noise. It's not common yet, but I see it as a sign that it will quit entirely sometime in the future which I expect since my original CC went through two motors with a combined 18k+ miles. I am a bit disappointed that these issues have appeared sooner then expected, but then I do tend to ride hard & also the CCX is pushing more power through the same motor (I tend to stick in 3 & sport mode keeping my speed 24-29mph).

From asking around & googling it seems like this is probably an issue with the clutch wearing down? I have one on order because it's not much more then paying to send the wheel back for warranty & I don't want wait two weeks without the bike. So just curious if anyone has tried this & if it fixed your motor issues.
 
Hi youth,
I have a Juiced Bikes CCS that is having the same problem.
Where did you purchase the replacement clutch?
Also, did you replace the clutch and continue having the same problems during Critical Mass?...
Or maybe it was not a quality part?

I would think that since there is a lot of stopping during Critical Mass, that might make the problem show sooner.

Thank you for your help.

Thanks,
motorteach
 
Hi youth,
I have a Juiced Bikes CCS that is having the same problem.
Where did you purchase the replacement clutch?
Also, did you replace the clutch and continue having the same problems during Critical Mass?...
Or maybe it was not a quality part?

I would think that since there is a lot of stopping during Critical Mass, that might make the problem show sooner.

Thank you for your help.

Thanks,
motorteach

I got it through EBay. The trouble just happen to coincide with Critical Mass, but the clutch was already failing before that.
 
For anyone looking to do this replacement I found this very helpful video on YouTube. This convinced me to do it myself versus buying a new rear wheel assembly for $400+ from Juiced (if/when they ever get them back in stock.)

 
For anyone looking to do this replacement I found this very helpful video on YouTube. This convinced me to do it myself versus buying a new rear wheel assembly for $400+ from Juiced (if/when they ever get them back in stock.)


I'm on my 3rd clutch after 13k miles. Actually opened up one of the locked up ones & didn't see any damage. There was very little lube in it & perhaps a shiny spot where the rollers jam against the insides. I wonder if it can be rebuilt and if it needs more lube.
 
I'm on my 3rd clutch after 13k miles. Actually opened up one of the locked up ones & didn't see any damage. There was very little lube in it & perhaps a shiny spot where the rollers jam against the insides. I wonder if it can be rebuilt and if it needs more lube.

My clutch is slipping and/or failing to engage. I pedal and can hear the motor spinning but there’s no forward motion. It’s still rideable but it’s getting more annoying with time. Sometimes it takes 5+ times before I can get it to engage. I will probably add some grease to the gears (since I already have some) but it sounds the problem is with the clutch mechanism. I mostly ride in the lower assist levels these days which is probably why mine lasted so long.
 
My clutch is slipping and/or failing to engage. I pedal and can hear the motor spinning but there’s no forward motion. It’s still rideable but it’s getting more annoying with time. Sometimes it takes 5+ times before I can get it to engage. I will probably add some grease to the gears (since I already have some) but it sounds the problem is with the clutch mechanism. I mostly ride in the lower assist levels these days which is probably why mine lasted so long.
Sounds like what happened to mine. Ross at JB told me that lubing might fix it. I wasn't sure I wanted to go through the trial and error approach, so I just bought the rear wheel assembly. Ordered in May, arrived in August. The new motor was quieter than the old one ever was. I sold the bike soon after replacing the rear wheel due to having switched to the Scorpion. I hope the new owner is enjoying it as much as I did.
 
For anyone looking to do this replacement I found this very helpful video on YouTube. This convinced me to do it myself versus buying a new rear wheel assembly for $400+ from Juiced (if/when they ever get them back in stock.)

Doesn’t show how to remove the keeper- How is it done?
 
What do you mean by keeper? I followed the directions in the video and was able to replace mine quite easily. The only difference is 1) you don’t have to remove the cassette and 2) there’s no nut on the disc side of the motor to loosen/remove so you can omit those steps.
 
What do you mean by keeper? I followed the directions in the video and was able to replace mine quite easily. The only difference is 1) you don’t have to remove the cassette and 2) there’s no nut on the disc side of the motor to loosen/remove so you can omit those steps.
There is a small removable metal chunk that keeps the clutch disc on the axle shaft- he says “don’t lose this” but doesn’t explain how it was dislodged to free up the clutch for removal?
 
I think it came loose while removing the axle in the video. Mine didn’t come loose but if it does you just tap it back into place like they show in the video.
 
Back