GPS or odometer?

Yes but I don't use it, and I didn't bother calibrating it.
I just use the voltage to know how much battery I've got left.

Knowing how fast I'm draining the battery allows me ride as far and as long as possible.

If I see the power draw climb above 400 Watts, I slow down.
Now you can understand a difference between a $2,000 and a $4,000 e-bike :)
I just use the voltage to know how much battery I've got left.
Hahaha! :D

calibrating it.
You made my day, ahahahaha!

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Besides, what does your story have in common with "GPS or Odometer?"?
 
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Now you can understand a difference between a $2,000 and a $4,000 e-bike :)

It has nothing to do with money.
I can set up my display to use the bar graph as a percentage.
I choose not to.
I charge my battery to 54 volts and my controller will cut out at 42 volts under heavy load.
54V is 100% battery, 42V is 0% battery. It's simple.

I'll be installing this soon and that's all I need to see.

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How long will your 9% remaining battery last and how far will it take you?

It all depends on how much power you draw.
Where is your Watt meter/Ammeter?

Besides, what does your story have in common with "GPS or Odometer?"?

I posted how I used GPS to calibrate my speedometer and odometer.
 
Why do you watch your Watt meter in the first place?

I was out for a ride yesterday going down this path,..

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I had my cruise control set to about 18 kph, and I was using 182 Watts.
(It was pretty hard to snap a picture going down the rough trail.)

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Then I went into the field traveling parallel to the path,..

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I didn't touch the cruise control. All the conditions were exactly the same except for riding through the grass instead of the hard packed trail, but I was now using 374 Watts.

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I was using more than twice as much power to roll over the grass than the hard packed trail.

Everything felt exactly the same, and it actually felt like riding through the grass was more efficient because it was a smoother ride.
That's why I like to watch my Watt meter in real time, it tells me how fast I'm draining the battery.

I could go twice as far on the path, and maybe 3 times as far on paved roads than if I did a trip through a field.
 
Just for your information, I was on a 101 km ride yesterday using a single 604 Wh battery, and returned with 15% battery left. No need for a watt-meter or throttle. The average speed was 22.5 km/h. The average assistance was 106 W.

That windshield of yours must be a terrible payload for your battery and speed.
 
That windshield of yours must be a terrible payload for your battery and speed.

My ebike only weighs 94.4 pounds.
I'm aiming for a 100 pound ebike.
I need 5.6 more pounds of crap on my bike to reach my goal.

My dirt bIke weighed 240 pounds.

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My street bike weighed 456 pounds.

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A 100 pound ebike is a lightweight compared to what I'm used to.
I can pick it up and flip it over to work on it.
I couldn't do that with my motorcycles.
 
There are errors associated with both GPS and wheel circumference odometers. GPS measures the distance between acquisition points which are never in a straight line. The "snap to" or smoothing feature in many GPS receivers does help as @dodgeman stated above. At best, they are a series of straight lines which do not exactly follow the natural curves of a road or trail. This picture gives a visual representation of the effect:

View attachment 158425

The yellow center line of the road is the true distance measurement. The blue, red & green lines are GPS tracks made on four different trips along the road. The small squares are the acquisition points and the GPS distance is measured between them. It's easy to see why they don't match.

Wheel odometers rely on accurate circumference measurements based on the rolling radius of the wheel. This is very difficult to measure due to changes in surface conditions, tire pressure and rider position on the bike. You also have to take into consideration the minute distances added each time you turn the handlebars. No rider rides in a truly straight line.

Due to the difficulty in setting an accurate wheel circumference, I tend to agree with @dodgeman that, under most conditions, the GPS measurements are likely more accurate.
That ebiker in the light blue line is giving us ebiker's a bad reputation, plus risky in a blind corner. LOL......
 
The main difference is you do not pedal the motorbike

I have put over 2200 km on my ebike since April.
I have pedaled for less than 15 km of that.

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Yes, yes. I can clearly see you have mismatched an e-bike with a motorbike

I have an electric motorbike that has a top speed of 32 kph.

(I actually got it going 38.4 kph down a hill today.
I could have gone faster, but I wasn't gonna pedal. 😂)
 
Your e-moped cannot work without a battery.

Yes it can.
I have a fully functional pedal and crank system.

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It's in brand new, pristine condition because I don't pedal. 😂

It will take me Fer Fukin ever to pedal along at 2 mph, but I will make it home.


It's really not that hard to pedal.
The land around me is perfectly flat so my total Mass doesn't account for much.
I rarely use my brakes.
I've got km of open road in front of me with no stops.

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well… actually. i’m sure you know this (?) but your compass doesn’t actually need gravity, but it does need the earth’s magnetic field. or at least a magnetic field 😂

I can see the field through the forest without the need for batteries. 😂
 
I'll use and trust my Garmin 60cxs GPS, I know it's accurate for what I do,
so far 960+miles on the Wart Hog MD 750 , plus I don't know how many miles on the Honda Rubicon ATV in 3 different states. Ymmv.
 
Art knows that I normally remove data gathering to enhance performance and feel. But he will be navigating by distance using maps. I set his circumference at 119cm. He can recalibrate up or down in 1cm increments. Topography gives different distances on the ground than on a flat map.

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I have put over 2200 km on my ebike since April.
I have pedaled for less than 15 km of that.
No matter how big your kilometrage or mileage is, there is always someone in the forums who racks up more. Sometimes a lot more.

I've put down more than 4000km since April, mostly on a non-electric bike. I typically ride about 300km per month electric and 700-900 per month unplugged. And there are lots of people here who ride further and faster.
 
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