Good Stuff You Bought

You are a trusting soul... I hope that a thief does not find the remote! ;)
A thief would only have to find the alarm and then break it. Once a thief is that far into stealing the bike, the alarm is only good for a couple of seconds anyway, so a thief searching for and finding a hidden remote to turn the beeping alarm off, that isn't my worry at that point. One way or the other that alarm is either going to be stopped or even ignored as they work on stealing the bike. I imagine it being crushed with pliers or such in a second or two. Plus.....


...it's way way better than leaving the remote at home. :) .... AKA no alarm at all.
 
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I bought this about a month ago from Ebay, it's a fingerprint cable lock that's about 4' long, has a seat post attachment to where it clips on. Once it's programmed with a finger print it unlocks in a split second. It was around 50 bucks.
 

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You guys would be visible for miles in those outfits! Better safe than sorry. ;)
It was my first time I rode together with a roadie. It is fascinating to discover issues roadies have to cope with on their rides:
  • Shouting "Sand ahead!" as a warning
  • Shouting "Car ahead!" or "Car behind!' to warn the rest of the group
  • Pointing with her right hand at damaged tarmac on the road so the others would avoid riding onto it.
There are things I even never need to notice on my non-road e-bikes... With my tyres and rear-view mirror... But even she had active lighting on her road bike!
 
I bought this about a month ago from Ebay, it's a fingerprint cable lock that's about 4' long, has a seat post attachment to where it clips on. Once it's programmed with a finger print it unlocks in a split second. It was around 50 bucks.

Cable locks suck and are deceptive as security. Lost my first ebike due to using a cable lock...I suggest getting a decent chain or ulock.
 
I depend on using several medium-mild deterrents and never leaving it locked outside for hours. Unfortunately this involves adding a lot of extra weight to the bike. Two heavy chains and heavy locks, a good sized Ulock. That's used to secure to as many different poles or structures as possible in that location. So with a bike rack I'd try to chain to different parts and maybe Ulock a wheel to the rack.

plus, for the cable lock, it's permanently holding the saddle and suspension post to the bike so the post cannot be raised.
To me that's the kind of purpose the normal cablelocks serve these days. I never want to see the saddle gone when I return and it's what I had.
I don't see other bikes with the saddle locked but with a heavy bike I do want to sit.
 
I depend on using several medium-mild deterrents and never leaving it locked outside for hours. Unfortunately this involves adding a lot of extra weight to the bike. Two heavy chains and heavy locks, a good sized Ulock. That's used to secure to as many different poles or structures as possible in that location. So with a bike rack I'd try to chain to different parts and maybe Ulock a wheel to the rack.

plus, for the cable lock, it's permanently holding the saddle and suspension post to the bike so the post cannot be raised.
To me that's the kind of purpose the normal cablelocks serve these days. I never want to see the saddle gone when I return and it's what I had.
I don't see other bikes with the saddle locked but with a heavy bike I do want to sit.

Yeah I use a Chain + Ulock combo also a cable for my quick release saddle...coz like you said; it would suck to come out and find your seat gone, oh and Ive got a hidden GPS tracker in the tail light for peace of mind.
 
Previously I posted this under Parts and Accessories

"I bought these Camelion AA and AAA batteries in 2-packs to try, for $2 a pack and the double charger for $8.
They are 1.2V and charge to 1.39V after "forever" on the charger, maybe 12 hrs. They do get hot. I figured that the normal 1.5V batteries cost $0.25 each in the bonus pack or $0.41 normally compared to rechargeable at $1 each.
After a couple of charges each now, they seem to be lowering my battery costs, so unless they explode I might be sold on them."

The dollar store packs are 300mAh AAA and 600mAh AA.
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Now I've used them for a while in my wireless keyboard and mouse on my desktop and occasional other uses as in a small flashlight. They work fine and now I don't try to get them to their highest voltage by leaving them charging for so long.
I have a little drawer full of new regular AA and AAA batteries so I'll be keeping the regular batteries for occasional use in camera lights that take 6 batteries, or for use if there is long power outage or if the Camelions show any signs of problem. No need to have more than 2 packs of the Camelions right now.
 
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Going back to security, I recently put together a system for hauling both of our Allants in the bed of our truck protected by a high-rise topper. This system includes 5 separate locks so at least it’s gonna slow down a thief. The high-rise topper was the key buy but the system also included three (X2) other hardware purchases to make the system work without drilling into the bed making it removable.
I don’t lock my bike when riding because I don’t (so far) use it to shop for anything. I ride and then put it away.
 
I just opened up the Cygolight Hypershot 350. It's blinding.
My worry now it might be dangerous to be flashing that into drivers' eyes. I might aim it downward a bit at first to see if they are outraged even at the lower power setting.
 

Why I choose StVZO bike lights - what it is really about ?​


StVZO mini logo
StVZO - Straßenverkehrs-Zulassungs-Ordnung or German Regulations Authorising the Use of Vehicles for Road Traffic is a popular name on the Polish market. For many users, it indicates the lighting quality and that’s it. But what is StVZO really?

Besides the specifications regarding the power and construction of lights, two fragments are important for a road user, who undergoes these regulations. One - minimal lighting value of the area 10m in front of the bike should be no less than 10 lux of light (10 lumens / m2), two - prevent blinding other road users. It requires a specific light construction and optimises light use, as it lights up a road, not the passing trees.
A lamp following StVZO regulations will have a beam pattern similar to the one shown in the first picture:
Symaulacja rozkłdu światła z różnego typu lamp
 
I just opened up the Cygolight Hypershot 350. It's blinding.
My worry now it might be dangerous to be flashing that into drivers' eyes. I might aim it downward a bit at first to see if they are outraged even at the lower power setting.
So nobody complained about the rear light but on the stretch where the bike lane is enclosed by curbstone types obstacles and little light poles, and the car lanes are under construction so limited to one narrow lane in places, even at 33/34 km per hour as I was going, 2 car drivers were aggressive in yelling that bikes must be in the bike lane, which is illegal for motorized bikes to ride in where the lane has a physical structure. This was basically holding nobody up because I was meeting up at the stoplights with the same cars that I waved on ahead of me when possible. At most, the cars were able to go 5 km/hr faster than me. cars then coming up behind were outraged that there was about 20 meters space. I think the Cygolight brilliance attracted their minds much more than the old lights. If that is the case it's a mixed blessing. One of them I talked to at the next stoplights and I explained the position we are in with inconsistent bike lane laws and we got on well.
 
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I've lost two in the last 4 months! 🤬 Both were clipped to my seat bag. I've noticed, in Canada at least, they've gone up considerably in price.
I've put mine on the rear rack horizontally. I did read to install it only vertically but that isn't going to work on the rear of my bike.
So I checked it out for secureness and it was OK.
I just discovered how easily the light comes off, now that it's had everyday use. 1 month of use. That might be why they say to install it vertically. The plastic holding arm weakens with use and stays bent a little bit, allowing the light to be too easily removed. I will buttress the holding arm for now but I could see the whole arm breaking off in the future. I need to manufacture a secure holder arm
As well, it has a finnicky and weak USB rubber plug/cover.

The light itself works very nicely and I think I've never seen such a bright rear light on a bicycle.
 
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