Go SwissDrive rear hub drive motor repair

Congratulations on a great job!
...
Happy riding.

Actually, my saga continued another 2 weeks after the GSD fixed. I will post the details soon. In the meanwhile, I will ask Ortlinghaus about the detail if they changed my electronics or used as as - I am also very curious :)
 
Could the stator being reworked to fit the threaded ring from dt swiss? https://www.dtswiss.com/en/technology/wheel-technology/pawl-technology/


That would be great fix for the issue actually, why not. Then you need to distroy the aluminum stator. If you are lucky, the new DT Swiss Threading diameter is smaller than the Stator diameter and you can still replace the Stator in the worst case... But I neither have tools for threading, nor the old parts to try...

Cengiz
 
That would be great fix for the issue actually, why not. Then you need to distroy the aluminum stator. If you are lucky, the new DT Swiss Threading diameter is smaller than the Stator diameter and you can still replace the Stator in the worst case... But I neither have tools for threading, nor the old parts to try...

Cengiz
I would need to have an old stator to try. I know some metal workshops that could easaly do the mechanical rework of the metal parts.
 
I would need to have an old stator to try. I know some metal workshops that could easaly do the mechanical rework of the metal parts.

There are time to time broken GSD motors in Ricardo.ch, you have to watch regularly... Especially the ones from ET1.
 
Hi Guys,
Bit of advice needed. I have Go Swiss Drive 250d. Last year it will intermittently stop working. When I play around with the contacts from the hub to the battery it will come to life again. This spring it will not come to life though. I cleaned all contacts but no result. I am trying to find out if the fault is in the hub or in the controller on the handlebars. The battery is charged - reads 41.5v after standing all winter. I can see 41.5v flowing through the cable towards the hub. Power also goes up to controller in the handlebar but it does not come on. I am very reluctant to take apart the hub as it looks a difficult job. How can I rule out a problem in the handlebar controller. If the hub is unplugged should the controller still work? It is an old version 1.24.

Thank you!
 
The rear hub can be disconnect and reconnected anytime. Only disassembling is tricky. You need to reassemble everything in exact same position.
Your problem sounds like a wiring harness problem. I just experienced one with my bike. There was some current leakage between the + and the controller cable of the motor (see pic). I will fix this and continue to ride my bike :)
 

Attachments

  • AB8A4E20-21BC-4DCF-91A9-8CA1BC2C9B9E.jpeg
    AB8A4E20-21BC-4DCF-91A9-8CA1BC2C9B9E.jpeg
    244.8 KB · Views: 449
Biggest effort it took me to find the contacts to mate the motor connector. With 2.5mm^2 cables and the TE connectivity contacts 212008-1 I could rebuild the wiring.
The current limitation of the contacts is 32A. The efficiency loss with the 2.5mm^2 is about 1%. Thicker cables will not fit through the chain stay of the turbo.
 

Attachments

  • 7538E78C-1793-4556-A23E-E9E30DEC0E17.jpeg
    7538E78C-1793-4556-A23E-E9E30DEC0E17.jpeg
    899.3 KB · Views: 322
  • 0321FD79-C69C-43C6-AD59-B153E9B0AA35.jpeg
    0321FD79-C69C-43C6-AD59-B153E9B0AA35.jpeg
    456.4 KB · Views: 311
Hi all,

Similar project here:

I also got another used 45km/h Go Swissdrive hub motor from a 26" Stöckli speed pedelec with only 2600km while mine had about 20'000km with broken bearings. My first idea was to combine the parts from those two motors but byside the fact that mine is 29" (may be another firmware/programming for 45km/h) there was also a different axle which made everything quite complicated. While the newer one has a usual 10mm "screw-axle" mine has a 12mm thru axle or better said a 15/12mm hollow axle which got destroyed by demounting (impossible to srew the M14 thread on the 1.5mm thick steel tube off from the aluminium body). Finaly I decided to repair mine from scratch, build a own 15/12mm hollow axle made from aluminium and weld it directly to the aluminum motor body plus weld the torque lever directly to it due the little original steel torque lever was not stable on the aluminium axle. More in video.

Now I still have all the parts in good conditions of the Go Swissdrive from the 26" wheel and some batteries.

For another project I would be searching the following parts:
- Display
- Display mount
- Go Swissdrive Bikebus (not Canbus) 45km/h also for an 29" wheel

Anyone? -> [email protected] or Whatsapp/Signal to +41 76 221 43 07
 
Hi Guys,
Bit of advice needed. I have Go Swiss Drive 250d. Last year it will intermittently stop working. When I play around with the contacts from the hub to the battery it will come to life again. This spring it will not come to life though. I cleaned all contacts but no result. I am trying to find out if the fault is in the hub or in the controller on the handlebars. The battery is charged - reads 41.5v after standing all winter. I can see 41.5v flowing through the cable towards the hub. Power also goes up to controller in the handlebar but it does not come on. I am very reluctant to take apart the hub as it looks a difficult job. How can I rule out a problem in the handlebar controller. If the hub is unplugged should the controller still work? It is an old version 1.24.

Thank you!
Hi,

If the cable to the hub shoud be ok, there are still severall possibilities. For example my bike (Stöckli ET2) originally had sliding contacts between battery and seattube which made it possible to easily remove the battery but also generated a lot of potential faults (oxidation, contact springs etc). That seems to be main issue with this model so i decided to hardwire all three contacts (36V, 0V and bikebus). You may see this at beginning of the video I posted in the last comment. But then I had a similar issue like yours, voltage was there and also bus connection...but it was not possible to switch on. I found that there was a sense contact in battery to detect if it is mounted inside or outside of the tube. Luckily this sense contact was also wired up to the charger port (for what reason ever...) but all i finally had to do was to buy a plug on which I bridged this sense contact to 0V. Now I have like an electrical key, system switches just on if key (bridged plug) is connected.

Good luck,

Urs
 
The wiring harness is fixed, all works fine. Between the wires I put some Silicone to seal off the connector.
I am quite sure that the insulation was overheated during production time back in 2012. I was just lucky to have it working up to now and there was no additional damage to the other components.
 

Attachments

  • 82562CC4-88EA-4E40-BDD0-7CF70BDC5F23.jpeg
    82562CC4-88EA-4E40-BDD0-7CF70BDC5F23.jpeg
    203.7 KB · Views: 354
  • 9F19F2CA-62B2-42E2-9ADF-E5A8273E9008.jpeg
    9F19F2CA-62B2-42E2-9ADF-E5A8273E9008.jpeg
    285.2 KB · Views: 362
  • 942C61ED-4C79-4C59-BF03-05B827D5CDA3.jpeg
    942C61ED-4C79-4C59-BF03-05B827D5CDA3.jpeg
    344.2 KB · Views: 369
  • 060D719C-A55F-4F96-B3C3-370A186D01E3.jpeg
    060D719C-A55F-4F96-B3C3-370A186D01E3.jpeg
    459.2 KB · Views: 387
@Triker45
Many thanks for the information. Looking for replacement parts on the market and finding out how to do fixes are challanges. Have the bike performing after the fix is like being in heaven. It is all about this.
E-bikeshop.de I know, I have already purchased parts from there. They provide good service.
 
Hello,
2. cont'd...

I measured the N-MOSFET power transistors (IRFB3607 P512D in TO220 heatsink packaging- there are 12x, 4x per phase), 2x of them which belongs to 2nd phase was broken.
(Here is the data sheet: https://www.infineon.com/cms/en/product/power/mosfet/12v-300v-n-channel-power-mosfet/irfb3607/)

If you connect a multi-meter in "Diode" measurement mode, you can see if the transistors still good or they were dead. In my case, 2x of them were showing "short" i.o. showing 0.5V forward-bias on voltage drop.

Assuming the remaining 10x working power transistors may also be worn out, coming to their end of service life, I decided to replace all 12x at the same time. Each costing about 2.5 CHF in (www.digikey.ch). Note that, opening/closing such a hub-motor is pain in the neck, it is better do a "preventive" maintanence/replacement before the other also die later ;-)

Have you measured the N-MOSFET power transistor IRFB3607 still soldered on the PCB or do you have removed them from the PCB and then tested them?
Can anyone provide me an answer please? Thanks
 
Last edited:
The problem with those MOSFET's is that there is no heat sink attached to the tab. Reason for a $25 remote controller instead of the dingbat controller inside the hub motor. May be reason goswiss went bankrupt. BTW the beautiful aluminum heatsink around all $25 controllers is not attached to the mosfets. BUT, you can take the case off & modify to make the heat actually flow to that beautiful case for $12 in insulator pads and some scrap aluminum
Hi, hope you’re doing well. I have a question about a 2016 “go Swissdrive”. We had to remove the left side cap to re-tap the disk brake rotor. When we closed it back up, it is giving me a strange problem; the motor starts engaging just by pushing the bike a bit forward and will not stop. Could it be the magnets on the side of the freehub? If you have any ideas i would really appreciate the help.
 

Attachments

  • 84B5992C-3E5E-4E6C-824D-B4EE4AE4DEE2.jpeg
    84B5992C-3E5E-4E6C-824D-B4EE4AE4DEE2.jpeg
    281.6 KB · Views: 322
  • EB22F1D1-6ED7-4F76-B8B4-7A781E5FFFF4.jpeg
    EB22F1D1-6ED7-4F76-B8B4-7A781E5FFFF4.jpeg
    262.9 KB · Views: 283
  • 597EEE5E-17B2-4DAF-B95D-381D14332E99.jpeg
    597EEE5E-17B2-4DAF-B95D-381D14332E99.jpeg
    452.7 KB · Views: 339
Hi there, I have a 2013 Specialized Turbo S which I believe had the same GSD motor (SBC-M01) with the same worn out free wheel stator. A few years on it looks like Specialized have one or two in stock but they won't sell it to me in Australia since they can't support it. The bike has only 10,000kms and is in otherwise great condition so am looking for a way to keep it alive.

Wondering if anyone might have experience in replacing it with a third party motor? which would be compatible with the original battery and controller in the bike?
 
Hi Guys,

My GoSwissDrive also died with a start up M26 problem. Im now looking for re-embursement from the supplier, who denies responsibility.

Can any of you confirm that the GoSwissDrive system had some reliability issues? If so, what was the most common? I read here and there about heat problems. Any support is welcome. Thanks.
 
Back