General question for Aurora/ Omega owners.

[Doggyman1202]

The Enviolo Trekking CVT gear hub and AutomatIQ gear shifter is great for riders who are inexperienced or have shifting limitations – it’s like going from a manual shift car to an automatic one.

The above quote from Electric Bike Review last year. I'm not "inexperienced or have shifting limitations". In fact, I just take shifting for granted, but enticed by the idea of not having to do so, just as my grandparents were likely stoked when they purchased a 1950's Buick with an automatic "Dynaflow" transmission once upon a time. I'm interested in these Evelo's for the same reason I prefer to drive an automatic instead of a stick shift car. Shifting is distracting.

As an owner (or possibly future owner) of the Aurora/Omega, were you motivated by "inexperience" or physical limitations"? No right or wrong answer, but I'm interested to see what appeals or doesn't appeal to you about these bikes. In other words, Is the Enviolo Automatiq a "game changer", or do still prefer manual shifting?

 

[Kriegs]

The above quote from Electric Bike Review last year. I'm not "inexperienced or have shifting limitations". In fact, I just take shifting for granted, but enticed by the idea of not having to do so, just as my grandparents were likely stoked when they purchased a 1950's Buick with an automatic "Dynaflow" transmission once upon a time. I'm interested in these Evelo's for the same reason I prefer to drive an automatic instead of a stick shift car. Shifting is distracting.

As an owner (or possibly future owner) of the Aurora/Omega, were you motivated by "inexperience" or physical limitations"? No right or wrong answer, but I'm interested to see what appeals or doesn't appeal to you about these bikes. In other words, Is the Enviolo Automatiq a "game changer", or do still prefer manual shifting?

I have driven both and what matters is the person and their usage. For commuting, the automatic is a game changer as you can still use the app for adjustments to the assistance depending on your cadence. With the manual, you lose that ability but can manually adjust on at anytime except under major load and you would need to stop pedaling to adjust

Not sure that helps.

 

[Doggyman1202]

I have driven both and what matters is the person and their usage. For commuting, the automatic is a game changer as you can still use the app for adjustments to the assistance depending on your cadence. With the manual, you lose that ability but can manually adjust on at anytime except under major load and you would need to stop pedaling to adjust

Not sure that helps.

Sure, that's a good answer, especially since you have experience riding both.

I'm of two minds, like someone that can afford to drive a comfortable sedan or SUV most days, and also keep a manual shift sports car in the garage. (Imperfect analogy since I'm contemplating the reverse with a bike).

Since I've always ridden a bike with manual gear shifting (except a few single speeds over the years) I'm attracted to the idea of letting the bike take charge for a change, while I just peddle and enjoy the ride. I'm not sure if I'd feel good, bad, or indifferent about that experience over time. That's why I asked, and I appreciate your answer.

 

[PedalUma]

Good topic @Doggyman1202! For me the real problem is the weight. A two liter bottle of soda weighs 2Kg. This rear hub weighs about 2.5Kg, 2,450 grams. And that weight is out at one end of the bike like a fat kid out at one end of a seesaw. I have a similar hub and have not installed it because of this problem. It sounds cooler than it actually is. That is why I purchased it. Next, when driving a manual sports car up the rugged Northern California Coast you would downshift before entering a curve, rev and accelerate out. With the automatic system you can't do that with your bike, making it lug. Again, it sounds cooler than it actually is. Next is the electronic shifting system's battery. If you forget to charge it then you are locked out of shifting during a ride. It is one more thing to remember to maintain. A Sram 11-50 cassette weighs 615 grams, or 1/4th as much and it has a 455% ratio range. The Enviolo is something like 350%. Just some factors to consider in the mix.

 

[PedalUma]

If I had a fleet of delivery bikes with inexperienced riders on the flats, it could be a good option. If their cadence gets too high, it would upshift, too low, downshift. But having inexperienced riders presents other problems such as looking at apps and using earbuds instead of honed situational awareness while riding.

 

[Doggyman1202]

... And that weight is out at one end of the bike like a fat kid out at one end of a seesaw. I have a similar hub and have not installed it because of this problem. It sounds cooler than it actually is.

...and I'll underscore what Kreiger said too: "you can still use the app for adjustments to the assistance depending on your cadence". While I like versatility, isn't that attention and effort equal to shifting gears? That's not a rhetorical question, since I know Evelo sells a controller for adjusting cadence. If I understand correctly, and I'm not at all sure I do, what makes this automatic if you're trading direct gear shifts for cadence adjustments, which in turn then send signals to the CVT? Isn't the whole idea just to let the "Automatiq" do its thing?

 

[Kriegs]

...and I'll underscore what Kreiger said too: "you can still use the app for adjustments to the assistance depending on your cadence". While I like versatility, isn't that attention and effort equal to shifting gears? That's not a rhetorical question, since I know Evelo sells a controller for adjusting cadence. If I understand correctly, and I'm not at all sure I do, what makes this automatic if you're trading direct gear shifts for cadence adjustments, which in turn then send signals to the CVT? Isn't the whole idea just to let the "Automatiq" do its thing?

To be clear you can only set the percentage of assistance you get in the app which is relayed to the bike. You do that once and not worry about it until you realize you would like more assistance at a certain cadence. Call Evelo and talk it out with someone more knowledgeable than myself and get yourself sorted as either system will be far less work and thought process than a true derailleur based system. I ordered the Atlas and did not have a choice as it is the trekking enviolo and twist shift but that works for me as this bike seems to scream power and torque and low cadence and I will be riding it in Asheville NC where there are lots of hills and trails

 

[Doggyman1202]

Thanks for the clarification. That helps. I spoke to one of the Evelo guys a few weeks ago, who played down the optional controller somewhat. It's also not prominently listed as an accessory. I'm starting to understand why now.

 

[PedalUma]

this bike seems to scream power and torque and low cadence

I find that the better systems increase assistance using two factors, both pedal pressure (torque) and pedal speed (cadence). The rider intuitively requests more power by pedaling harder and faster. Just down shift, rev and press harder to speed up. Like on a regular bike.

 

[Doggyman1202]

I have another Evelo question not related to the above. I'm not sure if the Aurora has one, but can the throttle on the Omega be easily removed? I'm not a throttle fan, and Class 2 e-bikes are not allowed on at least one nearby trail.

 

[KnobbyGuy]

The Aurora and Omega have identical drive/control systems except the Aurora comes equipped with the wireless cadence control (at least our '21 model was this way, but the wife now has the Omega with the optional wireless control added). They both have throttles and I believe they can simply be unplugged although you may want to call Evelo on this. They do have "Class 2" stickers on the frame.

 

[PedalUma]

Class 2 e-bikes are not allowed

Good question! This bike has both cadence and torque sensors. You can remove the throttle. Lay the bike onto its left side, and insert a 2mm hex wrench under the grip and drip water into the gap. Stand upright, remove the tool and hydrostatic pressure will allow you to easily remove the grip. Then use a 2.5 or 3mm hex to remove the throttle and disconnect the connector shown in this photo. Stickers can be removed or covered.

 

[KnobbyGuy]

Good question! This bike has both cadence and torque sensors. You can remove the throttle. Lay the bike onto its left side, and insert a 2mm hex wrench under the grip and drip water into the gap. Stand upright, remove the tool and hydrostatic pressure will allow you to easily remove the grip. Then use a 2.5 or 3mm hex to remove the throttle and disconnect the connector shown in this photo. Stickers can be removed or covered.


Use the same 2.5 mm hex key to loosen the set screw on the rubber hand grip and it will slide right off. No need to use any water or excessive force.

 

[Doggyman1202]

Thanks! I'm not too concerned about removing or blocking the class 2 sticker, (thank you, Knobby Guy for pointing that out) but a throttle "ain't my bag, baby" as Austin Powers would say, so I'll be happy to remove it.

 

[Doggyman1202]

Double posting ain't my bag either, but I'll add one more comment/question: I have no objection to class 2 e-bikes for those that want or need them. I rented a Pedego brand bike in Florida this winter that had a throttle, and needed it. Otherwise, it was tough to accelerate quickly and smoothly from a stop. I am going under the assumption that the torque sensing Omega does not feature that kind of rotational delay of power. Am I correct to assume that?

 

[KnobbyGuy]

Torque sensing on the Aurora, Omega, and Atlas works quite well in my experience. I've seen some sketchy situations on other brands that use cadence sensing, where a rider might be stopped and a slight movement of the pedals will launch the bike forward! I've also seen incidents with inexperienced riders in a slow, sharp turn and the bike suddenly accelerates! It's really imperative that you 'ride the brakes' in these situations.
On the throttle topic, I'm not spending thousands on an ebike without one! (reasons below). That being said, we recently returned from a great hiking vacation in the Utah National Parks and while in Zion, we rented the Harley ebikes one day (Gates belt drive w/ Enviolo auto hub). No rental bikes with throttles are allowed in Zion and I can see their point. There were hundreds of kids and adults on ebikes and if they'd had throttles, it would have been 10X more chaotic!

1. To get a quick start across a busy intersection
2. To get started from a dead stop in awkward situations when its difficult to get your feet on the pedals
3. Works great in sand, gravel, or sketchy conditions when you need to keep both feet on the ground
4. Blip the throttle on occasion rather then increasing the PAS level (I believe this is better for battery range)
5. Use your bike as a 'moped' (we don't use our throttles this way, but it could prove handy)

 

[PedalUma]

My bikes have the accelerator built into the pedal. Just like a Tesla. Push foot = Go. Not push thumb go. That is the whole idea of a torque sensor. It is the foot torque not the thumb torque that counts. It is still an accelerator.

 

[Doggyman1202]

Torque sensing on the Aurora, Omega, and Atlas works quite well in my experience. I've seen some sketchy situations on other brands that use cadence sensing, where a rider might be stopped and a slight movement of the pedals will launch the bike forward! I've also seen incidents with inexperienced riders in a slow, sharp turn and the bike suddenly accelerates! It's really imperative that you 'ride the brakes' in these situations.

1. To get a quick start across a busy intersection
2. To get started from a dead stop in awkward situations when its difficult to get your feet on the pedals
3. Works great in sand, gravel, or sketchy conditions when you need to keep both feet on the ground
4. Blip the throttle on occasion rather then increasing the PAS level (I believe this is better for battery range)
5. Use your bike as a 'moped' (we don't use our throttles this way, but it could prove handy)

Excellent post, and all of your points are well taken. I've been on other cadence bikes in addition to the aforementioned Pedego where lurching makes simple u-turns an adventure. Regarding Point 1, I haven't had any problem whatsoever with the Priority Current zipping across an intersection, but point 3 hits home as a reason to perhaps consider keeping a throttle onboard. I live in a rural mountain community and there are a lot of post-winter freshly graded dirt and gravel roads. Some roads now not only require riding on gravel but in gravel, so there are times I want my feet ready for action.

On the other hand, "moped" throttle riding defeats the purpose of riding for me. I like to pedal, and take satisfaction in the travel exercise. While trail throttle restrictions are arguably born out of ignorance, pure throttle riding does muddy the water a bit in terms of public understanding and acceptance of e-bikes.

 

[PedalUma]

when you need to keep both feet on the ground

If a person can keep their feet on the ground then the saddle should be raised somewhere around six inches. How to determine correct saddle height? From the right side of the bike while coasting place your heal on the pedal in the 5 O-clock position. The knee should be locked. And when coasting, place the ball of the foot on the pedal in the 6 O-clock position. The knee should be slightly bent. This in my saddle height on one of my electric bikes that does not need a thumb throttle on the handlebar because that function is in the bottom bracket and modulated by the ridder's feet with pedal pressure.